So today I got to shooting the blitz yesterday it was doing fine no jams. today each shot I have to pull bolt back to shoot again, I did have bolt way back and turned up in the notch for 7 hours but that's not even that long so I don't know. Why is it jamming now each shot now, If I cant fix the problem its a return as I don't want it I bought it alone for the full auto an If I cant get that to a level of reliability then its useless for me. I added a donny fl adapter an am running a tatsu, was doing fine yesterday with exact same setup. It jammed 5 times in a row then it cycled for like 16 shots an again jammed I was dry firing to make sure its not a mag issue.

Has anybody had their notos apart to let me know easiest way to fix this leak.

Hello,
I am looking for another springer for hunter class or possibly WFTF. I currently have a tx200 that I just put in a cs1000 stock. I put in arh spring in it and that's it. Shoots great. I would like to try a HW for comparison. I'm a lefty so either one would work great. I would definitely change spring because I want under 12fpe. Honestly I love the cs1000 stock so I would probably order one for the gun. I know barrel droop is a problem with the 98. I know they aren't as easy to work on/break down as my tx200. I think I can figure it. I honestly want a butter smooth shot cycle and cocking is not an issue for me. I mostly see tx,98s, one 95 at matches and that's it. What would you guys that has shot them in matches recommend? I'm not concerned on how the shoot of the bench but how the shoot of sticks or knee. I think I want to use vortex piston seal but probably an arh spring or tbt. I welcome any advice. Thanks

Jon

I have 3 vulcan 3 rifles with 700mm barrels. Synthetic stock.

Only shot a few times as a youtube review copy.
Firm Price $1195.00 For Each Rifle. Paypal only ......

All Of Them Together.



.22 Call



Paypal only $1195.00


.25 cal




.30 cal

Let the fun begin with a full interview with DonnFL discussing this new item from Karma Airguns.

Looking to see if anyone is interested in trading a arken epl4. 6-24x 50 I have a like new ep5 includes scope rings

So a Very Good Friend picked up a Gen 1 .22 RainStorm at Toyz that Shoot a couple years ago.
No magazine, stock was broken and a bad fix to that. Got a good price on it but just never liked it much.
Being We wheel and deal with each other alot I asked if I could buy it. Sure enough after some cash and parts deals? It became mine.
I let it set for a month or more as I searched for magazines. I finally was guided to someone that sold me 2 for a VERY good price!
Let it sit a few more weeks before I filled it to get to testing things. And here is where I kind of went Stupid.
I filled off the SCUBA tank so just under 200 BAR which is the rateing for the RS. No problem. But pressure gauge only went to just over 100 BAR.
Asked my Friend and he said he believed the gauge was bad. DER OK! Said I. Loaded a magazine and took some shots. What a weak POS I got. Or so the STUPID voices in my head told me.
Now some of the voices speak in languages I don't understand and some times they go missing. I assume to visit relatives or a strip club.
Well today one of them showed back up and told me "You know if there's a Regulator in there the gauge is reading fine right?"
Thank God that voice speaks English! (Well with a Scottish accent but I can live with that)
Degassed and took the tube off. Sure enough a Huma Reg and one of those danged 'Brissle brush' depingers!

Now I have a Huma Reg tester so I can reset the reg for Power over shot count. (Oh the joys of a compressor!)
So taking a gamble on what looked like a possible parts Gun? I'm pretty happy with how things are turning out as I Love the Evanix Guns!
This one has alot of work to get it where I want it but Scotty says I did good.

nla

Has anyone taken advantage of the sale? I am looking at the EP4's because they're 6 or 8 oz lighter than the regular magnification scopes.
My Athlons R 30 oz. 23/24 oz would make a lot of difference in the field. I've not compared the 2 thru the lense , but with Japanese glass!!!!

$1,100

I have for sale an original FX Impact, .22, with a 600mm adjustable shroud.
I had the factory regulator replaced for a HUMA regulator and will include the original.
Also included is an adapter plate to use the newer style larger capacity FX magazines.

Includes everything seen in pictures;
-FX impact
-Case
- Manual
- HUMA & FX regulators
- FX large capacity magazine adapter
- Fill port adapter
-Original aluminum magazine

It's in excellent condition with no issues. Thanks for looking.

$1,700

I have for sale an EDgun Leshiy 2 in .25, REPR Regulator, and 250mm barrel. I purchased this new in January 2022 and its in new/unused condition. Included is the original box, Leshiy 2 in .25, manual, fill probe, regulator tool, 3 magazines, 2 magazine holders, and a small parts bag that came with it from the factory. It's in like-new condition with no issues and willing to ship. A gentleman was asking about the sap wood in the grip, so I've included closeups of that area. The camera picks this up WAY more than the human eye does. Thanks for looking.

It’s official. UPS is on strike.

I’ve seen it mentioned a few times lately where others have claimed Crosman parts are made in China (specific to the Marauder). I’m curious if this is true or not and if it is, where is the proof? I’ve done some internet searches and came up with no official confirmation.

I've been shooting pcp for years and, recently, in the last year or so, have been filling with a GX CS3 ( I also use a CS2 now and again). None of my current batch of eight rifles have been filled by me with anything else. However, some are used, and I have no idea how they were filled. Not knowing the pedigree of these rifles causes me to open them up and make sure there is no moisture in them to cause failure. i have two FX Royales, two HW100's, two Air Arms and a Brocock and a Crosman, as I said, some new, and some used. I am in the process of opening the two FX and Brocock to check them for moisture. Also, I've already opened the two HW's, and found no trace of moisture of any kind.

I had to buy a different wrench setup for the FX and Brocock as they use buddy bottles of CF and one aluminum on my older FX Royale. I ended up buying a Sabre Tactical wrench, clamp wrench and degass tool kit to open the bottles on rifles. I have to tell you, this is without a doubt the BEST way to open these bottles, no slipping, no damage to finish and you can easily remove even the tightest, loctited valve with very little effort. These are fantastically designed tools and I can't recommend them highly enough.

I have now opened the aluminum bottle and found it to be pristine, not a single trace of moisture, pics below. I'm currently in the process of opening all my guns, that aren't new to make sure there's no problems lurking in the depths.

I do run a double set of moisture filters and a third tiny filter with molecular sieve material in the two larger ones, and a cotton filter in the tiny one. This is in addition to the water separator in the CX3. I have recently been aware of some nasty failures of the cheap filter aluminum housings I've been using, so I decided to buy a single, larger filter housing that uses cartridges of molecular sieve, cotton and charcoal in one, which also has wall thicknesses considerably thicker than any of my current filters, and also has a burst disc, just to be on the safe side.

I'm happy that the GX compressors and Hill pumps I've used, have caused no moisture problems at all. I've also been very happy with the GX compressors, they are well built and work like a charm to fill guns, and if I should need parts, they are simply a phone call away.

Here are some pics of my two HW cylinders and my aluminum FX bottle after opening.

Does anyone have information on this carbine? I cannot find any reviews on the web, only Shot Show videos. Is this a vaporware carbine? Anyone get a chance to pick one up or check one out?

Attached are few groups with my Daystate Red Wolf, good groups but one pellets shoots away, any suggestion to squeeze the group further. I am using Heliaboard and had a very little variation in velocity. Groups are after ckeaning barrel, taking around 35 shots and made these groups.

I was directed here by a an another member of a firearm forum I'm a member of. And been a member there for over a decade using the same screen name. I won't post which, so as not break any rules I don't know about yet.

Looking for information, knowledge and expertise in this new, to me, discipline of shooting. For now, I think I'll be doing a lot more perusing and reading than posting.

Selling a very nice Element Helix 6-24x50 MRAD FFP scope. Comes with throw lever, parallax wheel, and scope covers. Has the clean reticle which I tried to get a pic of. No sunshade.

Asking $300 shipped in the Cont 48. Paypal or USPS Money Order

Hi Folks,
I have a very specific question for pest controllers who have experiance and knowledge in this very specific situation…
I have been asked to shoot some pigeons in the enterance way to a building. The distance is about 10m (11yards). Easy shot, right? However there is a glass roof to this entrance hall .
This question is aimed at people who have EXPERIENCE in shooting pigeons at close range with LOW powered air rifles.
My question is what FPE is needed to dispatch a pigeon at 11y, with out exiting the bird?
What set up do you use, pellet caliber, weight, shape, fps, fpe and what results (pass through or not) do you get.
Thanks in advance.
Pete.

Please let me know what you can about the Benjamin Ecko PCP Air Rifle BPE25…

https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/benjamin-kyro.1284471/

If I leave my gun cocked and locked (with the safety on of course) overnight hurt anything like the hammer spring?

Post update:
At this point, I am not planning to split up the sale into individual parts.
If thing change in the next month or so, I will change my listing.

Off my FX M3 700 sniper
Dual 700cc Tuxing bottles and Saber Tactical dual bottle adapter

If you want your FX to look bad ass at your club range, you need this!
The stock M3 bottle is only 580 cc and shoots approximately 3 full .25 cal magazines. It all depends on your tune.

With 1400 cc I shoot all day without refilling. All items purchased August 2022 and are in very good condition. Each bottle has it's own bottle valve fitting. So just screw it on and go!

$400 includes USPS Priority shipping in the US. PayPal FF only.

I shoot at the Diablo Rod and Gun club in Concord, CA "almost" every Wed 9-12 and from lane #8 if you want to pay cash.
Rod View attachment rsz_320230712_172030.jpgView attachment rsz_20230712_093809.jpgView attachment rsz_20230712_172216.jpg

Okay several things going on in my life, one a couple of new firearms purchases the last 2 months, engaged and the Prophet 3 Performance in 22 cal came, last two are the change. Well all of them, life is about change and additions.

Originally I was going to go with the P3 Performance Compact, but I had a phone chat with Alex of Air Rifle Activities and he made the rational the standard version will be more versatile. I can always modular down to compact if I want.

I got the gun two weeks ago, but the next day I flew to The Netherlands for training and to see my girlfriend, now fiancee. She is amazing, speaks 6 languages, studying a masters in PT and has a heart of gold, my friends in The Netherlands love her. And she has a cool ass yorkie named Pepper. We have started the process for her to move to USA, but glaciers move faster, so lets see how it goes.

The Prophet 3 is another story, it is built for purpose. When comparing it to my P1 several things stand out beyond the obvious changes in design. One is it is more refined with better metal work. To sum up the fit and finish is better, and it comes with a cool new t-shirt.

As you can see the rifle came set at 90 bar, and I have put a couple hades through it to get a "feel" and the mean fpe was 31 ft/lbs at 930 fps, this ia bit fast for hades, so I am going to try some 18 grainers along with 25 grain when they come in. I have slugs too.

Published power range of the gun is from 32 to 65 fpe. At 32 the shot count is 170 according to the data. and a while back I bought a RTI Hush suppressor, well, it lives up to its name, the gun is for sure quieter than my Ranger which is shooting almost half the energy as the P3.

RTI knows how to build a quality gun, that is for sure, and like any manufactures they have their lessons learned and RTI learns from their missteps. Ps let me report that later.

My M3 performed flawlessly for the first couple months after I purchased it. I had it tuned to 1/2” groups at 50 yards with the 2nd reg at 150bar and velocity at 990fps +/- 3fps. Every time I took it out it was dialed in. But I did noticed that whenever I took it out after it had been sitting for a day or two that the first 5-6 shots were slow. They would be something like this: 930, 950, 960, 970, 980, 990. I figured I could deal with this. Before hunting I would dry fire the gun around 6 times.

I took a break from shooting during the past 2 months. I did not make any changes to the gun during this time. It just sat in its case. I took it out to shoot. I checked to make sure that the reg pressure, valve and hammer were all set to where they were they had been when the gun was dialed in at 990fps. The first shot was 850fps! Over the course of 20 SHOTS the velocity eventually climbed to 990. I thought maybe things just needed to get warmed up after being unused for so long.

But then I tested a shorter time interval between shots. I took 10 a minute break, then the took a shot. 960! After just 10 minutes a drop of 30fps! Then over the course of 5 shots it climbed back to 990. This is not how it behaved before. If I had taken a 10 minute break 2 months ago, there would be no change in velocity.

The next day I took the gun out again and the first shot was 930fps. 15 more shots and it’s back up to 990.

Any ideas guys?


UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

SOLUTION(S):

I did several things, all addressing the issue of friction between the valve rod & plenum nose o-ring. I made all of these changes at the same time because I didn’t want to disassemble the rifle, make a change, reassemble, let the gun sit overnight, test, then repeat the process for each change. As a result I’m not sure which change had the most significant affect on resolving the issue, but all of these changes could only help resolve this problem in the present and prevent it from happening again as quickly in the future.

For reference there are 2 images of the valve rod and valve tube assembly schematic below.
Here’s a link to the entire FX Impact M3 schematic:
https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F10370-Impact-M3.pdf

I disassembled the gun down to the valve rod and on the 2 inch section that slides in and out of the Valvetube End (part 10338) there was a grippy grey residue. This was from the o-ring (part 19768, O-ring 2.84x2.62 PUR90) in the valvetube wearing away onto the valve rod, perhaps due to just normal use, not enough lube being applied at the factory, o-ring shrinking overtime - likely multiple reasons.

I did several things to reduce valve rod friction:

• DEBURRED the ends of my HAMMER SPRING with a rotary tool. Some hammer springs have burrs on the ends that can cause inconsistent velocities. Not all springs have these burrs, but if you notice that yours does, then sand them down with a rotary tool, fine file, or sand paper.
• CLEANED o-ring residue on the valve rod with rubbing alcohol.
• POLISHED the valve rod: Used a polishing compound and microfiber cloth to polish the valve rod until it had a shinny mirror-like finish. Took about 10 minutes. I used Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner, available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSOW4
• UPGRADED THE O-RING THAT THE VALVE ROD SLIDES THROUGH/AGAINST: I purchased an improved valve rod o-ring, which is made from a harder and smoother material than the stock o-ring. Here is a link to where you can buy this o-ring: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267168330592 For reference it is O-ring 103 (part 19768) in the schematic below.
• LUBED THE UPGRADED O-RING with SuperLube Synthetic Grease rather than silicone oil. The maker of the ungraded o-ring said that SuperLube keeps this o-ring lubed better and longer than silicone-based lubes. Here's a link to the specific SuperLube he recommends: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref He said that he uses this SuperLube on ALL of the o-rings in his M3 because, again, he has found it to keep the o-rings better lubed and lubed for longer.
• 
  
• (NOTE: The last step I took below is likely unnecessary, and the above steps will probably solve the problem for most people)
• UPGRADED THE VALVETUBE: I purchased a custom valvetube from AGN member mubhaur. This valvetube has a PEEK SPACER/BUSHING inside the valvetube next to the o-ring (part 19768). The valvetube that comes stock on the M3 doesn’t have a threaded end that allows it to be removed so that the two o-rings inside the valvetube can be easily accessed. So it was difficult to replace the 2 o-rings inside of FX's valvetube. The stock valvetube also doesn’t have a high strength peek spacer/bushing to support the sealing function of o-ring 19768. The peek bushing also ensures that there isn’t any metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and the valvetube. He explains the rational for his design in the video below at the end of this post.

After these changes, when the gun sits overnight, not even first shot is slow. The fps is exactly what it was when I last shot. Velocity is also more consistent. Fps spread used to be +/- 6fps. Now it’s +/- 2.

As described in the original post, before these changes the first 20 shots would be slow: starting at 100 fps slow and gradually increasing with each shot. And if the gun sat for just 10 minutes the fps would drop by 30 fps.

***MORE INFORMATION***
The seller of these o-rings https://www.ebay.com/usr/mudpro1 is very knowledgeable about this issue with the M3/M4. He answered all my questions regarding how this o-ring could make a significant difference. He owns an M3 Impact and was experiencing this same problem. FX didn't offer him any help after months of contacting them, so he decided to make his own fix. He is a machinist who makes precision parts for a living, so he has access to many manufacturing resources. He had these o-rings made specifically for this issue with the M3/4. These o-rings are harder and smoother than the stock o-rings.

The seller of this upgraded o-ring also makes an upgraded valvetube that utilizes a peek bushing held in place by a thumb screw, which results in less o-ring compression and ensures that there is no metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and valvetube. I didn't purchase his valvetube because the upgraded valvetuve that I purchased from AGN member mubhaur has been working very well now that I have the upgraded o-ring. Both of these improved plenums have a similar design, incorporating the peak bushing and a removable screw for easy access to the inside of the valvetube. The ebay seller does not have his custom valvetube listed on ebay yet. Message him directly on ebay if you'd like to purchase it, and to ask him questions. He's very helpful and knowledgeable.

So until FX provides us with a redesigned plenum nose, more durable valve rod o-rings, and a smoother valve rod, those of us who are experiencing this issue with our M3s and M4s should do these things:

1. Deburr the ends of your hammer spring if you see a burr.
2. Polish our valve rods (see the update to the main post for how to do this. $15 for polishing compound)
3. Upgrade our valve-rod o-rings ($12 from ebay seller mudpro1)
4. Lube the o-rings with SuperLube Synthetic Grease (around $7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref)
5. If the above 4 don't fix the issue to your satisfaction, then consider buying a redesigned plenum nose from either mubhaur or https://www.ebay.com/usr/mudpro1 Both of them charge around $225-250 for this piece.
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