Hey guys I’m looking to try tuning my 700mm impact m3 in .25 cal for slugs again (tried before but never could get anything to shoot better than 1” at 50 yards). I was just thinking before I rip the gun apart and put the heavy hammer slug kit back in it is there any certain weight of slug that I can shoot without it? I was hoping to shoot something under 34 grains to keep my shot count up. hoping some of the nsa 29 or maybe the zans will be ok. I have both the stx and the heavy stx liners as well, is the pellet liner a better twist rate the lighter slugs?

anyways any help is appreciated, im just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I dive down the rabbit hole of slugs again lol

also how do you determine your second reg pressure? Some people are over 150 bar when I can get the same speeds at like 115-120 bar. Why set it so high If you don’t need to be?

I’ve just successfully downsized my airgun collection by about 60%. I did this because I don’t have the time to shoot, and they were just taking up space. I kept the few guns I know I’ll use (a small game/target springer, a small game pcp, two predator guns, and a big game gun) and got rid of the rest. It’s a great feeling, to clear out the excess.

Then I see this AEA Megalodon. A compact, pump-action big bore. It’s silly, because I so, so, soooooo don’t need it. But I want it. I want to blow up cans with it and ring steel with it and toss it in the car and take it up to Vermont in the fall to hunt whitetail. I want to invite my PB friends over and watch their jaws hit the ground when they send out six rounds downrange as fast as they can pump the thing. I want that quick shooting, 400+FPE beast in my safe just in case, if you know what I mean. I want the stupid thing. Bad.

But I don’t need it, and I’m hoping one of you will talk me out of it. I know asking this forum to convince me not to buy a new airgun is like asking my wife to convince me to cheat on her. But I have to try. Maybe one of you will say the thing I need to hear.

What do you use for inletting black? Lamp? Make your own? Recipe? Buy it?
Thank you

Hi all,
I set up this little hw50 as a lightweight shooter for WFTF Field target for my dad. I was going through some pellet testing today and wasn't having much success. Indoor, 10 yard, benched on sandbags and i couldn't get anything to group tighter than about 3/8. To make the cocking a little easier, i installed a carbon fiber tube which is much longer than the barrel. (I never measured, but probably about 9" longer.) The tube is just held in place by a half dozen orings that are slipped over the top of the barrel, then i pushed the tube onto the barrel. The groups went from 3/8" to 1/4" (which is acceptable for a springer on a bench imo). I removed the shroud a few times and tested with and without the shroud. Always the same, 3/8 no shroud, 1/4 with the shroud. There's nothing in the shroud from the end of the barrel to the end of the shroud. So, what the heck has happened here?
I figure it's either improved harmonics, or the carbon fibre tube is somehow acting like an air stripper. Either way, the tube is staying! I'd be interested to hear some theorycrafting as to why this happened.

HW50 177, Vortec 4 kit installed, running JSB 844 at 685fps for 8.8fpe. (Yes it's a bit low for FT, but it's a sweet shooter at that energy level, and easier to cock.)

Ryan

Looking for info from guys that have deleted the front reg on the m3. I realize that if you take time between shots 2 regs are fairly consistent but is 1 reg better? Im shooting 38 gr h& n 25 cal @ 925 front reg 160 rear 150 and close to max on stock hammer and spring. 600 mm barrel

I’m in the market for another moderator for new Katran that on its way … Does anyone have any info on the airmaks mod? design ? Or should I go with the huma mod 40? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated…. I couldn’t find the info I was looking for in regards to the airmaks , the website just says “for airguns only and 1/2 inch unf”.

I'm looking for recommendations on a bottle to store my Ballistol in with a pen dropper that does not leak every. Anyone have one they use that they are 100% satisfied with? I have attached a picture of what I am looking for.

This groundhog was on the move! He was traveling from left to right in pretty tall grass, while he was eating the tasty tops of grass. At this distance with the Hybrid Slugs, I needed to go for a headshot, as I'd be dropping this guy in like to bottom of a rainbow. I made a spot on wind call, and tried to drop it straight in the ocular, but I think my laser rangefinder metered the tall grass just in front of the whistle pig, so the shot landed an inch low from the eyeball, and it wrecked it's jugular and put it down for the count.

Shot with the FC Maverick VP .30cal shooting FX Hybrids at 940fps. The ATN X-Sight 5 5-25 LRF did the ballistic and recording duties, and I exercised the features of the newest firmware to record at 240 fps, which I then slowed down to 480 fps in post for some pretty nice slow motion.

AS a follow up to this post I started https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/a-tail-of-woe-and-warning.1311245/#post-1728694
I took my piston down to a local O-ring company a with there help came up with two o-rings that I thought would work like on the piston that sells for 25.00. It worked I have air again. the size is 1.5x33mm. 2 simple o-rings less than 1 dollar total. Hope this helps other airgunners here.

tim

I'm looking for some advice regarding the power to use with the Ghost HP and suitable pellet weight. At present I have the regulator set at 150 but the gun is shooting JSB 18.13 grn at 1,100 and 25.39 grn at 998 with power wheel on maximum. The 25.39grn seem to like a speed of 990 but I can't get the speed of the 18.13grn to below 1,030 with power wheel on minimum so I guess the regulator pressure needs to come down.

This got me wondering what power and pellet weight others have found to be optimum. I appreciate all barrels might be different but I would be interested in the power/weight others have found to be good in the Ghost. I have some 33 JSB Beasts but haven't tried these yet.

If you have the new walnut show a bunch of pics any caliber thanks...

I pulled my 2 PCPs out today for the 1st time in about 7 months. My Wolverine performed awesome but my BRK didn't which shocked me because it had been the best gun so far. I then realized I was using ultra cheapy crossman walmart pelleta that were really short. I think that might have been the problem. Wish I had taken some other types of pellets with me. I could watch the pellets stray allover the place like a curveball in baseball. Any ideas?

How many of you have converted a co2 gun over to pcp via a safepac? I've had a few 2240s, but I decided to toss one in the 2260 shorty I built. I had the maker cut the end down to 1/2" so it just looks like a fill cap on the end. I get about 14 shots at 525-550 fps with FTTs. It only has a 12" Prod barrel in there, so that's why the velocity is low. It stacks the 5.53mm FTTs at 20 yards so that's all I ask of it. Already smacked 2 starlings this morning with it.



I also had to tap the transfer port with an 8-32 set screw and drill that out to 3/32" to get a stable shot string. Otherwise it was in the 700s for a couple shots and then fell off like a rock.

I do have a discovery valve set I will eventually put in the gun to get more power and shots, but it's so quiet at 10 fpe that I might leave it. The trigger is stiff though, since the spring is a .045" wire and cranked to the max. Cocking is stiff too. That'd be corrected with the Disco valves. Only running such high pressure to get the shot count up.

So I’m gonna start my own testing in 25 cal, shooting slugs at 900+ FPS.

The reason I ask is because I’ve watched a fair bit of the RMAC videos and the North Eastern Airgun Comp. From what I can tell, the guys shooting bench test competitions are still shooting with the factory shroud.

I would suspect that in a competition where sound doesn’t matter; why are they all using the factory impact shroud over the tensioner?

I have both so gonna try them out both to see what I find.

Feedback is welcome.

Question for you guys. I recently sold a gun on here to another member. He reached out and said the gun won't hold air and blows back out the fill valve. I only filled it twice while I had it but it worked fine. He even told me it showed up full of air. He wanted his money back and is sending it back to me because he doesn't want a "project". I sent him his money.
My son is sort of chewing me out saying it was sent in working order and there isn't a warranty on used guns here. He might be inclined not to refund the money. I sort of feel the same way but went ahead with the refund. What say you??

Thanks, Scott

I have $750 from a gun sale that I am probably devoting for a new springer. I have a 3x12x44 UTG scope already. I need the airgun to be high quality without any tinkering needed on my part. Does the HW 30 fit that bill? Should I go ahead and have AOA put a vortex spring in it so internal problems should be reduced? Any benefit with more power or smoothness in recoil with the Vortex spring in a HW 30? Debating between HW 30 Urban Pro at $589.99 or the HW 30 Deluxe for $373.99. Is the Urban Pro that much more quieter than a HW 30? The Urban Pro 4X scope is of little use to me so the HW 30 Deluxe scores points there as I can use my UTG scope. Last, if I go PCP, what is the most accurate say to 50 yards, no tinkering PCP that I can get for my budget that will work well with a hand pump.

What is the average length of pull for a bullpup pcp?

Why I am asking is that a friend bought a Artemis P15 and that rifle is very short in the shoulder.

Do you have a good, practical and neat way to lengthen the length of pull on a wooden bullpup stock?

Hi! I'm currently working on a paper chronograph called SpeedShot for all those airgunners out there who don't own a chronograph (like me) or who don't want to drag out the chrony to the range every time.

That being said, I need some willing participants to give feedback on my paper chronograph targets. I've done all the nerdy math to figure out exactly where the pellet should strike given a muzzle velocity.

Essentially, the end user would zero their rifle/pistol at a range of their choosing, move to 50% of the distance, then continue shooting. The target will then tell you how fast your pellet is moving based on where it hits at the shorter range.

For example, I zero my gun in at 50yd. I would then fire at 25yd and compare the paper chronograph speed to the actual chronograph.

Is anyone willing to help me validate my model? Thank you! There is a PDF file attached that can be printed on any standard household printer.



View attachment ZeroAt100_ShootAt50.0.pdf

We hunt pigeons at an industrial dairy farm on a weekly basis. The owner just put new fiberglass roofs on his barns. We have been using P-rods mostly and detuned them to shoot .22 pellets at 10.8 foot pounds or 585 FPS using 14.3 CPHPs. If we miss a bird we still put holes through the roof inside 40 yards. If we slow the 22s even further they become increasingly more unstable which produces more fliers. So I am wondering if going to a .177 pellet, will this have less chance of putting holes in the roof when the foot pounds of energy is lower?

Hypothetically, if a .22 and .177 BOTH had the same foot pounds of energy, would the smaller caliber, concentrating that same energy into a smaller area, have more chance to penetrate a fiberglass roof? I would think spreading the "same" energy into a wider area (larger caliber and POI footprint) might have less chance of penetration?

I am not that experienced using .177s. I had a Crosman Challenger for a brief while and it was pretty much a 10M gun which loved 8 grain wad cutters but shoot those WCs outdoors and the slightest wind would blow them all over the place. Even though we shoot inside barns, they have fans blowing so there is air movement. Are .177 round nose, shot at slower velocities, stable in a some wind?

Is there a general lowest speed range where .177s are accurate? Using the search function here it seems its similar to 22s in that 177s prefer 880-920 FPS too? I've found that when dropping below 700 FPS in .22s they start to lose accuracy and have more fliers.

Back to the title, I guess I am looking for suggestions to find a pellet caliber, weight and speed that won't poke holes in the fiberglass roofing and will still have enough energy to humanely drop a pigeon at 40 yards. Ideally I would love to find some scrap pieces of the same roofing to shoot at to find out what speed or energy level I need to stay below, but sadly I don't.

This breathing tank comes with a s410 but not sure if it works with the s410 or not or should I buy a new air tank

Howdy all.

I've just bought a vertebrate pest control business, and am looking to get into shooting smaller pests such as rabbits, pigeons, rats etc.

I've got an array of firearms, but no decent air rifle. I'm looking for advice on what rifle (pcp) would best handle aussie conditions, and will be suitable to take down rats through to foxes. Been looking at the FX Impact M3 and Maverick, but mixed reviews have me cautious on dropping $3k+
I like the bullpup design for its compactness while not compromising on barrel length. Looking for probably a 600mm or 700mm barrel.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm in south australia, if that helps at all.

19 yards in the hostas next to the foundation.

21.5 JTS Semi dome. Theses pellets shoot @ 860fps out of my AA s500.

Hit the little guy between the eye and ear and out the same spot on the other side.

The JTS performed nicely in the wind at 25 and 50 yards. Next time I order, I will get a bunch.

This may be a dumb question so forgive me. Let's just say I have a .30 cal rig setup with a moderator specifically bought with and for the .30 cal. Months later I decide I don't need that much power and get a.177 barrell. I use the same moderator but noticed groups are speratic where they were tight with the .30. I take the moderator off and groups tighten up.

The question is, if a moderator is rated for a caliber bigger than the current setup will it make a difference?

I have my opinion, but it's just that. Anyone have empirical data either way?

Hello I have a FX Impact M3 and i would like to replace the fill probe that is on the gun I believe the Part number is 16303
I'm pretty sure i have a very small air leak I sprayed it with some air leak detector fluid and i have some very tiny bubbles comming out from the very end of it it's not really that big of an issue but just an annoyance. I was going to change the fill probe out but i can not find one
anywhere to buy does anybody know a company in the usa that sells them because i cant find one anywhere Thanks for your time Guys
any help would be appreciated.