I have a Priest II in .25 for sale. The rifle comes with a Donny FL fat boy and hard case. Has been a great super accurate gun but I don’t need two .25’s. At the hammer spring adjustment there is a some red nail polish I used to mark a certain tune. No trades at this time. Asking $850 shipped.

Selling my .22 atomic xr. It’s in excellent condition and has been a safe queen. Need funds for other projects. This is the “we are the plinkers” package w the athlon scope and 0db moderator. I can include the bag if wanted at an additional cost. Bipod isn’t included but everything that came with the gun like manuals and extra parts come just like from AoA. Asking $1000 shipped for everything.

Selling couple of Impacts for my friends. I've tuned them and they shoot awesome, both are well taken care of and pretty much bench only guns and looks like new.

#1 - sold!
Impact M3 .25 Cal Sniper with power block
700mm .25 cal barrel
700mm Superior Heavy Liner with carbon liner sleeve
580cc bottle
Saber Tactical bag rider
Saber Tactical front rail
Factory Mag + Carm Single shot loader
DonnyFL FX moderator
in factory case
price $1,650 shipped. SOLD




#2
Impact MK2 standard 30 cal
Powerblock with PP720 upgrade (M3 without front reg and quick preload adjust)
480cc bottle
600mm barrel with 600mm 30 cal slug liner with carbon liner sleeve
Ernest's carbon barrel tensioner(no shroud, no POI shift with bumps)
FX empty can moderator with extra section with 3D printed baffles
no mag, he broke the mag couple of weeks ago
Price $1,250 shipped - SOLD

Looking to trade a bran new Sightron PLR 6-24x50 FFP MOA scope. Box has been opened scope has been handled but never on a gun. Im looking to trade it for a slug swaging set up of some kind in 22 caliber. With cash on my end if need be or another kicker of some kind. Scope is crystal clear Japanese ED glass. If you know Sightron scopes you know there quality. Tha ks for looking.

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8/25 Updated with sold items.
8/15 Updated with sold items.

Long story short, I no longer have an Air Venturi Avenger and I have several upgrades, some of which have never been used. Prices include US shipping (unless shipping cost exceeds purchase price), paypal or venmo will work

1.. Saber Tactical Rail Replacement (used, like new) $30

2. Buck-Rail Barrel Band, bottom rail (discolored but works) $10

3. Buck-Rail Barrel Band, tri-rail (used) $15

4. Bullpup rear rail support (new) $30 https://www.ebay.com/itm/285180482285?hash=item426614d2ed:g:GwQAAOSw3-pkCQrH

5. Hajimoto air stripper, metal shroud nut & extended adapter for moderator. The air stripper centers the barrel so I removed the tube from the Donnyfl A70 adapter to allow it to work with the air stripper. $75

Good morning - I’m an experienced PB shooter, metallic silhouette & bullseye pistol, but new to air guns other than lots of offhand practice with an FWB 300. When I expressed interest in shooting Hunter FT a friend loaned me a Westhunter 4-16x scope to mount on my HW77 to experiment with. When shooting at less than 18 yards even when I turn the scope to 4x, I‘m unable to obtain a sharp target image. The result is a slightly out of focus target with a relatively sharp reticle.
What would be a good 4-16x or, if possible, 6-24x medium priced ($500-600) scope to mount on my HW77, but would work on a PCP. I like what I’ve read about Athlon scopes, but am open to other makes. And yes, I think I’m starting to go down the rabbit hole. I look forward to your suggestions. Thanks, Tom

SOLD pending funds

The Snowpeak PP750 is a very nice crossover between an air rifle and an air pistol, thanks to the buttplate, mounted on two extendable steel sliding rods that can be extended to a lockable stock.

The filling pressure of the air cylinder is 250 bar and thanks to a regulator, the pressure will stay consistent independent of the pressure in the cylinder. Cocking is done with a sidelever and the trigger pull is adjustable.

This Snowpeak PP750 comes with open sights, but also features a dovetail rail for mounting a rifle scope or red dot.

Snowpeak PP750 Specifications:

Action – Multi Shot Side Lever
Power Type – PCP
Ammo Type – Pellet
Stock – Synthetic Tactical
Trigger – Adjustable
Total Length – 40cm
Barrel Length – 20cm
Weight – 1.47kg
.177 – 9 shots

Include ( 1 ) one Fill Probe, ( 1 ) one Factory Single Shot Tray, ( 1 ) one 9-Shot Factory Magazine.

Also included are the following EXTRAS: ( 3 ) three CARM 8-Shot Magazines, 1/2-20 Thread Adapter, Titanium 11mm Adapter, extra 15-inch Carbine Rifle Barrel, Shroud Nut for rifle barrel, Picatinny Bottom Adapter.

I have all of the original Factory Boxes and Information, and there are no issues, shoots great and holds air for ever.

I will ship the pistol in the original factory cardboard box inside a shipping box. Ships Free to lower 48 states only.

Please contact me if you have any questions.

I have this listed on my website so you can purchase it with a credit card; www.uncletomsplace.net


Thank you,
ThomasT

Pigeons didn't return so I ended up doing some target practice at 100 yards in strong wind condition.

My Impact MK2 was shooting the H&N Gen2 25gr slugs at 984fps. My spinners sizes are 2-1/2", 2", 1-3/4", 1-1/2", 1-1/4", 1", 3/4" and 1/2".
I was having a hard time hitting the 1" in this wind, but still a lot of fun.

Hello ,

I am selling a like new 0dB 110C Black 1/2" UNF in .25 cal.

Asking $120 shipped within the CONUS.

Accepting PayPal F&F

PM me with interest .

Hello there everyone,
First of all, I'd like to know, whether the Spanish company Cometa also makes guns for the brand AirForce, and just puts on a different label, or have they actually sold the patents/blueprints to AirForce and they make their own guns of the same model or type? Is there anyone out there, who knows what's up with all of this?

...And now straight to the topic of this thread...
The finish on the newer Cometa 400 models and potentially other models of their springers, such as the 220, 300, and all of their carbine length variants as well, i.e. mod. 400 Fenix Premier USC; Or even their PCPs: Lynx, Orion... et cetera, is BAD. It's almost, as if there is no finish at all on the gun, just a thin layer of paint as a coating on the metal parts. A friend of mine bought one of these new, 2022/2023 made Cometa models, a couple of months ago and has only fired some 350-400 pellets through it so far, when he noticed rust; Yes, I wrote RUST, on the gun last week. I know the guy well enough to know, that he would never leave a gun outside during the night (when it gets colder) and that he'd keep his stuff, as he has kept this one, in a dry place, where there's about a room temperature's worth of moisture in the air. He's kept this particular, problematic Cometa in a wardrobe, along with most of his other airguns, when he wasn't using it. He's bought a Cometa 400 Galaxy to be exact, which would be the Airforce mod. 94, with a plastic stock in the US (that's why I want to know whether AirForce makes their own models, or they just get them from Cometa, branded as AF or otherwise as the mod. 94); Same principle applies to the German company "Tell", they keep the same designations though, just like Cometa; in example: Tell Modell - 400.

The "Tell" variant of the Cometa's model 400:

I should also point out, that this friend of mine has other, older production Cometa springers as well. The models that he's got are the following: 200 with a wooden stock (discontinued), 220 Galaxy, 400 Fenix (standard model), and this new 400 Galaxy. No other, either Cometa airgun of his or mine, or that of other brands, has rust on it!
This is basically the only gun that he kept inside, when not using of course, that caught rust. When me or him stop shooting, we lubriacte the outer surfaces of our guns, but it just so happened that he intended to keep on using the gun for a few more days, and he'd then lube the thing and put it away, yet it caught rust early, for some reason. Also note, that he wouldn't touch the gun with wet hands, otherwise his other guns would be rusting already, however are NOT, yet this one is, and it's practially brand new! I find it very hard to believe, that perhaps a few specs of sweat would be the cause for corrosion on a brand new gun, in very dry weather (at the time he's last been shooting the gun, there was 30' Celsius).

Here's the proof, but I'd like to apologize in advance, for the bad image quality, my dude's got a bad phone camera;
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Note, that those aren't flakes of dust, but in fact corrosion, or just plain RUST. The numbers ....-22 21-C1 indicate that the gun was made in either 2021/2022.

I'm sorry for ranting about all of this here, but I just wanted to get the message out there and tell you guys, that the "coatings" or finishes, or whatever you want to call them, on these newer Cometa airguns SUCK! ...And just in case you're shooting an AF 94, or a TELL springer, you should heed this warning and lubriacte your guns after each and every shooting session.

One more thing, another friend of mine keeps an old Kandar LB-600 in his garage, he's had it there for years on end, and the thing just barely started rusting last year. The gun cost 50 euros and the guy bought it second hand, which means that it was used already. Seemingly a ~50 euro springer has a better finish on it, than a ~250 euro gun, although these kinds of Cometa airguns cost around 300 euros here in Slovenia... Just imagine and keep that in mind, let it sink in.

Been trying to get a hold of Wes at AirgunArcheryFun.
Does anyone know if he’s on holidays?
Crow

Hey, I know it's somewhere here (or on the internet), but I forgot...I need to know what is the aftermarket part that secures the cocking lever after you pull it back, like you are trying to cock it, but you leave it in the open position, and if you happen to tilt the gun down, the lever slides forward a little... that free play. I know someone makes a part that will lock the lever back, so it won't slide forward if you happen to accidentally tilt the gun down a little.

If you can link it up or just tell me the part name, I will search it online.

Thanks!

What is the better desiccant to use in an air dryer to capture moisture? Molecular Sieve or Silica Gel and what size ?
I’ve seen where people talked about ”color changing “, but I believe that only is silica gel, I think.

"Shot cycle" is a term we often see with springers, but PCPs also have distinct ways in how they behave when the trigger is pulled.....and that's what I'm referring to here.

Yes, shot characteristics can be improved through "tuning" and replacing hammer and valve springs, poppet material, etc. And that's probably an entirely different discussion....What I'm curious about is what PCP, in mostly as-issued/oem condition, has the best shot cycle (to you), and why? The rules are simple, no swapping/trading out parts or components, but adjustments to manufacturer's parts are allowed, if the gun's design allows (hammer tension/port restriction/reg pressure).

And this is opinion folks. Please don't get all miffed if me or somebody else lists a gun that you aren't coordinated enough to use, or if your favorite brand or type of gun isn't everyone else's pick. No need for bashing, fan boying, or any of the other immature and asinine behavior that we see all too often on the forums. Not only do we all have different tastes, but nobody here has shot every gun. Maybe we can learn of guns we've not personally shot, or get some ideas on how to "tune" one in our current stable to improve the shot cycle.

My pick for "best" shot cycle is a Taipan Veteran, especially at just under 20fpe, same platform in either .177, .20, or .22. By simply reducing the hammer tension (can be further aided by dropping the reg pressure but not necessary) it produces a crisp and snappy shot cycle. And not a violent "snappy" but a very subdued one, the word snappy referring to the quickness of the entire process. The gun sits perfectly still through the shot, no jump or recoil or muzzle lift. No wasted air, no hammer bounce, no perception of the hammer slopping around in the action as it does its thing, just a simple pull of the trigger and the pellet is very quickly and gently GONE, and a hole appears where the crosshairs were.

When judged only by shot cycle, the Vet beats a bunch of the high end sub 20fpe guns that I've tried (Daystate Delta Wolf, BSA Gold Star, MAC1 USFT, Brocock Concept and Brocock Concept XL, BRK Ghost). The Red Wolf at sub 20fpe might be about neck and neck with a Vet, but I still think I slightly prefer the Vet's cycle.

And surprisingly enough, even at higher FPE outputs, the Vet retains most of what I've described above. Now, of course a 50fpe gun is going to be a different experience than a 20fpe gun, but even a 50fpe Vet is pretty chill to shoot, when compared to other platforms putting out 50 fpe.

As to why I think it has such an enviable (to nearly all the other airguns I've shot) firing cycle? A very light hammer, in conjunction with a rather short and stiff (relatively) hammer spring. The dual transfer port let all the air get to the pellet QUICKLY. The gun weighs enough to absorb the Newton stuff going on. And the trigger design ensures that a trigger break and pellet leaving are seemingly instantaneous. I also think that the quietness of the Vet at just under 20fpe aids in the perception of a desirable shot cycle. It is quiet, and therefore implies that it isn't violent or obnoxious as it is fired. Only one sound is heard during the shot, not multiple brrrpps or blaaaattts or brruuummppps, just a nice quiet "pop" or "snap" if you prefer that term.

What gun produces your favorite shot cycle, and why?

So I guess not normal with the valve closed? This is with the knob removed so you can see where it is leaking. It was leaking at the valve and where the knob was connected. Anybody tear one down to reseal?


How do I do it?


Allen.

I've read in at least two different postings on the internet that James Bair won a championship in 1988 using a Theoben SLR88 Imperator FT...if anyone has any information about that event or Mr. Bair please PM me...I have reason to believe I have that Imperator FT '88. I'm trying to confirm this for historical reasons...information to be passed along with the gun...when the time comes...Thanks AGN!

Apparently Extreme Big Bores is up for sale. The skinny is if someone has $250k, proper machine shop, skilled machinists, and decent business acumen perhaps you may be able to buy into a dream job at the executive level. For more info click the link below.


At least this explains why everything on their site is out of stock.

I have been shooting the H&N barracudas super 8s and with the zinc in them what can I use to clean the bore to get that out? I have ballistol that's it. Well not true I've got lots of bore cleaner for my powder burners which I'm pretty sure you don't put in an air rifle especially a PCP I don't know about my tx though.

Thanks
Jon

Like new in box. Very nice quality for the price range. 210.00 shipped to CONUS Can add those rings for additional 25.00 PayPal F/F preferred. Call or text Ron at 714-296-7489

Between the heat and work, I don't have unlimited time to setup a scope, so I came up with a quick and dirty method that get's you about 90-95% setup (depending on what class you are shooting) in about an hour. This is mostly for hunter class, my reasoning is at the end of the post.

You will need 3 or 4 field targets, preferably shot up. You will need 4 or 5 standing paper targets, preferably not shot up. You will need a tape capable of measuring 55 yards. You will need 2 blocks that your usual club puts targets on. We use pavers that are a little narrower than cinder blocks.

Anchor your tape in your shooting area. The shooting around needs to be about 7 yards deep, anchor the tape at the back of the area.
Run the tape out to 55 yards. Put a block standing up at 55 yards and put a target with a 1.5 inch kill zone on top of the block. Don't bother putting a string on the target, we don't have time for that. Put a paper target even with the field target.

Do the same at 45 yards.

Put a paper target at 25 yards (or whatever your zero is).

Put a field target and paper target at 20 yards. (This one is optional. If you don't have enough time or targets, this is the one to skip).

Put a field target and paper target at 15 yards. A half inch kill zone is preferred.

Get setup in the shooting box at the end of the tape and range the 15y, 20y, 45y and 55y targets. Mark your wheel. Get bracket info on the 55y and 45y bricks and kill zones. Write that info down.

Zero on the 25 yard paper target. Shoot the 15, 20, 45 and 55 yard paper targets and record your hold overs. If shooting a clicking class, write down your clicks.

Now move up a yard (that's why we leave the tape down and don't use a wheel or range finder). For hunter, range the 14 and 19 yard targets and get your hold overs. Click classes can decide if they want to do anything with the 44 and 54 yard targets.

Move up another yard and get info for the 13 and 18 yard targets. Do it again for the 12 and 17 yard targets. One more time for the 11 and 16 yard targets.

Now move the last time and get info, brackets and hold overs for the 10, 16, 20, 40 and 50 yard targets.

Pick up all your crap and leave.

This morning, I didn't fool with the 20-16 yard target, but in an hour I got a scope wheel set for 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 40, 45, 50 and 55 targets with bracket info for 40, 43, 45, 50, 53 and 55 yard targets and hold overs for all of those yardages. I will need to confirm 16, 17, 19, 30 and 35 yard hold overs at some point, but those aren't critical for my current setup. Given a few hours and a nice day, I will confirm all of the yardages and hold overs, but this gets me close enough to shoot a monthly match if I don't have time to do a full scope and dope setup. This would probably be ok for clicking classes if you use software to fill in the gaps, but honestly I probably wouldn't waste my time doing this for clicking. I would do two full sessions, 10-25 in one and 25 to 55 in another.

Anyway, hope this helps someone that might be new to this. Bear in mind that this is a quick and lazy setup method. The more time and effort you put into your scope wheel and holdovers, the better your results will be.

I got over $150 in slugs and some pellets

No airguns in the picture but they all shoot or load pellets for papa. What a blessing they are

is this any good on springs or should i use a tar ?

Hi, I was wondering if the regulator on the Marauder Field Target can be easily removed and the gun used as a conventional Marauder?

Looking to buy used and bumping up the energy a bit.