With the absence of Utah Airguns ( Fair to say FX/) how do the scores (points) compare to 2022 or this moot because of the weather and shooters?

On Sunday at EBR, in the raffle after the awards ceremony, I won a .25 Skout Epoch in Gold (they call it Champagne).

So this week I’ve shot it over the chrony with MK2 Heavy, and it shoots approx 920 fps. The only issue is that it has a slow leak somewhere, I’ll have to call Skout about that, it goes from 3000 psi to 1500 psi overnight. Other than that everything functions as designed. I replaced the stock moderator with an STO Falx high flow because it is much quieter and can’t have loud where I shoot normally.

I took it to my range this morning to break it in and sight in the scope. I shot a mag at 50 yards, them moved to 100. Shot two more mags (25 shots per mag) and the gun accuracy improved with each mag. This is ten shots after about 75 shots through the gun at 100 yards light breeze.





So then I decided to set the gun up like I would at a match, front tripod and rear ST rest. This ten shot group 100Y light breeze is after about 150 shots break in. And a pic of the gun set up for competition.





So far I am happy with the gun and just need to work out the slow leak issue. More to follow.

SIII FIELD TARGET 10-50X60 IR Why is it so recommended/used for field target? More importantly for hunter division of american field target? What are the characteristics that this scope meets?

I know FFP SFP is a debate and preference as is reticle types.

I've got a Hawke Sidewinder 6-24x56 FFP Half Mill scope and a couple Athlon Argos scopes. What does the Sightron SIII FT have that these dont? Is there that much clarity and quality improvement with the SIII?

Selling my FX PANTHERA in .22cal.
Comes with 6 magazines well-taken care of. Not a single scratch on it
Asking $1550 shipped

Selling for $1050 shipping included, comes with manual, o-rings, fill probe, 3 magazines. The rifle got the charlie special before arriving. It has a few scuffs from use, but all are superficial and minor.

Shots 1-14 rounds were with the jsb 18.13 and 14-28 are with the fx atomics, with the gun at around 135bar.

Down to trade for a AGT Vixen .177, or a .177 uragan

Shooting big bores requires an ample source of air. I use a SCBA tank to fill them and I can drain it down to around 2200-2300 psi before refilling it. Once I think I drained the tank to close to 2000 psi and stopped filling around 3300-3500 psi because it felt too warm. I use an Alkin compresor to fill my 74 cuft SCBA tank and I’ve learned that it’s ok to see moisture spray out of the 1st & 2nd stage valves when I bleed them so long as there isn’t any coming from the air purifier valve on the fill side. But what I am unsure about is how to gauge when to take a break on filling a SCBA tank due to the SCBA tank heating up. I do not want to deal with moisture in my tank or my gun reservoirs. I’ve noticed that the bottom of the SCBA tank can get pretty warm during the fill process. A top off usually takes 5-7 minutes and this is my primary concern. I think that fills from zero pressure is where there is a real concern here, but I’m curious. I generally like the room temperature to be between 70F - 85F and I run a dehumidifier prior to filling my tank so the relative humidity is usually 30%-40% in this moderately humid region.

What do you use to gauge temperature when filling your SCBA tank at home? At what point do you stop to allow the tank to cool before finishing your top off or fill?

I came across another YouTube channel last night “Amazing Airguns” I am not sure about the history between him and Fx but he is DEFINITELY NOT a fanboy!

While I do agree with some of the stuff he is saying about quality and in particular barrel liners! I am not convinced he hasn’t got a hidden agenda.

He does a few videos on barrel polishing, it obviously works for him but I wouldn’t recommend clearing out the choke will a drill or some of the more aggressive polishing techniques he uses. Slow and steady is the way to do it, you can always take more material out of the barrel, you can’t put it back in.

I just received this scope from Athlon. It is a warranty replacement and is new. I just took out of box for pictures. It has a mildot recital. Nice scope and life time warranty. I will take 175.00 shipped to lower 48. I can take PayPal gift or add 3% or a USPS money order. Thanks,Don

Shipping was a bit slow and packaging could have been better. Thanks to USPS they arrived in great condition. I wanted to try them before the rain and wind coming the next few days so I shot some directly from the tin, my they are clean and shiny. I later put a tin in my ultrasonic cleaner and they showed a bit of lead particles but much less and more like dust than what comes off the JSB/FX brand.
My Impact M3 hasn't found anything it likes until now. The last time I shot it was turned down to shoot Fx 10.3's at 800 fps. After 5 or 8 shots to adjust the scope I was shooting 30 yard 8 shot groups MOA or better. A first for this gun. I've always enjoyed shooting this gun I just haven't been able to get it anywhere near accurate until now. The fun factor jumped up a lot.
I can hardly wait to try them a bit faster after cleaning and lubed with Pledge spray. Now that it's raining I'll weigh some and see how consistent they are. Thank you Benjamin
Now to order more...still waiting for the JTS in .177

The torque driver!



It’s surprising how little torque is actually needed on some screws.

For I think these issues cannot be considered apart
I use to have great ideas (at least till someone tells me better )
First of all: What a name "Transfer Port" for such a humble bore, the pressure nozzle. (I'm quite sure if there was a valve acting fast enough with 3 mm full clearance it stuck there instead of that bore.
My idea about the above is that the larger the swept volume the bigger TP they accept. That schouldn't suggest that a large TP is better than a small one.
TP length is at least an issue as its width. As long as the width isn't much less than 3 mm the resistance to airflow (which might be the first concern) isn't the point but its dead volume is.
A powerful spring will easily press the complete swept volume (the air cushion) into the TP when it's too large. (before the pellet has started moving) Thus any enhancing of the TP will yield nothing but increase of dry firing.
The air cushion itself has no direct impact on pellet speed in the way: the more the higher the power. This is because the air cushion does not deliver the energy, it's the spring. The cushion is nothing but a clutch or like the string in an longbow translating the energy stored in the spring to the pellet. It does so quite efficently. Compress for example a spring and put a pellet on top of it and release. The pellet won't be nearly as fast as it is blown through the barrel. For good shooting consistency it is important to attain a high iniitial (maximum) pressure thus optimally sealing the pellet into the breech. A too large TP with respect to the swept volume might be degrading there.
Only, if the initial (maximum) pressure was too high (don't know if that ever occurs) a larger TP might flatten that pressure peak and yield a smoother action. This depends on the pellet type at what pressure it releases, too. Pretty sure hard and tight pellets need higher initial pressure thus a small TP (by volume). But when the pellet was soft and loose, only a small enough (by width) TP makes sure of a constant and good initial (maximum) pressure at all. So the small TP (by volume) is good for both pellet types the small TP (by width) is good at least for soft, lightweight and undersized pellets.
What minimum swept volume is necessary for a certain pellet energy depends surely on TP volume. But I've no idea at moment how to estimate the minimum air cushion volume for a certain pellet energy. For my calculations on pellet speed I just suppose a sufficient amount of air involved.

And then ther're those splendid combinations of a certain airgun with a certain power, certain barrel and pellet which do better than any other combination. Maybe that can never been properly calculated just tried. When the pellet is released just at the perfect moment to subdue any slam and vibration, the situation is called "aperiodischer Grenzfall" sorry, lack of proper translation.

Just how I think.

And piston weight must be considered, too. None will stand alone

The shorter the TP the wider it may possibly be. The longer it is the narrower it must be in order to avoid dead volume. but a 1 inch long TP is no aperture but a tube where diameter reduces airflow by 4th power (Hagen-Poiseulle's law), so TP length is more degrading than width (as long as resistance to airflow is an issue at all)

Hi Friends, for sale is my beloved Vixen. Reason being I've started tinkering and just want to free up some budget to play with other toys that have external adjustments.

With that being said the Vixen perfect and ready to go without any tuning! From the first day it arrived I adjusted nothing. It shoots both pellet and slugs excellently. The shroud is custom created by an artisan gunsmith, he added the 1/2 UNF and made the shroud servicable (you can take it apart and experiment by stuffing different material in there to muffle the sound). This shroud can be tightened flat against the receiver to act as a barrel tensioner (factory shroud had a gap).

The trigger is crisp and frankly the best I've ever used in a PCP. Balances well, lightweight and compact.

Quick research shows a brand new one going for about $1350. The shroud is valued at around $200. I'll do $1,000 shipped CONUS, buyer responsible for any fees.

So I brought a new HW100S (177) yesterday.

What do I need to do or know as a new HW100 owner?

I’m thinking I should give the stock some treatment before I start using it. There’s a thread on walnut stocks that suggests CCL oil. I’ve used walnut oil for my TX200 in the past but I don’t think it really seals or drys to a hard finish.

I’ve also seen comments about cleaning the factory grease off of the hammer/spring and using some light oil instead - but there’s also guidance that this then needs regular lubrication so is it worth the hassle?

Future mods/upgrades that’ll be I the planning:

Studs
Rowan Engineering adjustable buttpad
HW100 Tuning kit 3
HW100 tuning titanium cylinder
Huma in-tank regulator

Anything else that’s worth considering or in peoples opinion not worth it?

Won’t do all this at once, probably gradually over the next year.

Have an older Crosman pump .22 air rifle.
On the area behind where the pellet goes it says CROSMAN .22 Oct 28, 1924 Patents Pending.
On the other side it says MFD BY CROSMAN ARMS CO Rochester, NY

A couple years ago it would pump up and shoot just fine. Then started not pumping OK and holding air.

Now when I pump it the air just bleeds out through the barrel at both ends.

Who works on them to get it going again?

Very slightly used 0dB 160S .25 Caliber Moderator for sale (can also be used with .177 and .22 caliber airguns).

1/2 x 20 UNF threads.

Dimensions: 1.25" x 6.3"

Weight: 5.2 oz.

$140.00 USD including USPS Priority Mail shipping to CONUS. PayPal F&F or U.S. Postal Money Order. No box (I bought it from AoA with an air rifle, and AoA shipped it in a pre-cut moderator slot in the rifle case foam lining without the box).

I'm relatively new to Airgun Nation, so if you would like to check my Gunbroker rating of A+(111), here is a current listing for a holster. Send me a message on Gunbroker and I'll reply that, yes, I'm the guy selling the 0dB Moderator on Airgun Nation: https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/1007420106

Also, here is a high dollar gun sale I completed on Gunbroker just a few weeks ago: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1003780218

Thanks for looking!

Photos
courtesy of Rick C.

Hey guys,

I am looking to make my 2240 XL into a PCP. I know you can get drop blocks and bottles BUT I want it to be a little pistol. No carbine. I have Notos for that.

So... anyone have experience with this kit?


I liked that one because it is regulated and has 2 gauges.

If someone has that kit what kind of FPS are you getting? How about shot count? I would rather more power than shot count just cause it's a tiny cylinder and would take like 15 pumps to fill again lol Looks like this kit has adjustable reg set point.

If there are other "plug and play" kits for similar $ let me know.

We have a decent number of owners that continuously upgraded the Leshiy2 and ended up with drawers full of parts now. As myself as well never sold anything but finally got to a point me better to offer for any trade.
Can we start a thread what all we can list things the other guys may have a better use?

I posted my collection of airguns for sale and all but one sold in one day. Thank you for the opportunity to allow others to enjoy these great guns.

I have found three that are sitting in my safe that will go.
The remaining .25 Ataman MR2 Carbine. $495. Show room condition and still under Pyramid warranty. Full walnut stock.
Like new, flawless Sheridan .20 Blue Streak with fancy walnut stock. Perfect and every way. $375. Look on EBay at the range of these guns offered and prices.
AirForce Condor .25cal. No moderator. Top hat kit and in original box. Fired less than ten times. Perfect. $425

Shipping is staggering now. But, I can help a bit. If you are interested contact me at 760-855-8184 for pictures. I respond f to text very quickly. Pacific time.

I have a well loved and well used MROD in 22. Its served me well but I want to step into a .25 for some extra pop when hunting. I have been reading about the Tiapan Veteran (standard and the new model). I'm seeking opinions from owners. When did they roll out the new Vet? Can I still get an old one NOS? Comparing shot volume, should I plan on an additional moderator for a 25 Vet?

I noticed that the old one operates on 250bar and the new one on 300bar. With a single 4500psi tank I feel like a 250bar gun would allow more fills.

Hey Folks, I need some help here. Like a fool, I trusted the auto shut off on the compressor I use to fill my guns with, and one of my Artemis P15's pressure gauge was maxed out when I noticed it hadn't shut off. Now the gun only shoots at about 750 fps, as apposed to the 850 fps it used to shoot. There are no external air leaks. I put the gun aside for the past few months and today I tore it apart and replaced the regulator (set at 120) with a huma I had lying around. I refilled it and started shooting and it was shooting at around 880. I adjusted the hammer spring and got it down to shooting at 850, and it was stacking pellets again at 50 yards (JSB 18gr) like it used to. (Yeah, I won the barrel lottery on this one!)

Anyway, after a dozen shots it started dropping off again and within another 10 shots it's only shooting 750 fps again. As I said, there are no external leaks. The gun sat for the past 4 months and the pressure gauge never dropped. I can't figure out what is causing the issue, but I wonder if the air cylinder slightly expanded when it was over filled and air is leaking internally somewhere. I would appreciate any help you folks have to offer. Thanks!

Putting my Daystate Regal.177 unregulated up for sale. Shoots JSB 10.3 around 18.5 ft.lbs. I am the original owner of this, bought new from AOA. Stud mounted on forearm for bipod. Original moderator ( removable ) included, single shot tray, magazine still in bag (never used). I will be keeping my scope and bipod. Call me for additional details. 618-694-3086. No leaks, original box, discuss shipping.
No trades please.
Reduced price of 750.00.

Picked up a 35L from the classifieds this week. It been up there for months now and I've been drooling over it ever since, hoping someone else would grab it before my willpower gave out. The seller claims it was a 1973 release but the HW database says 1975 so I'm not really positive when it was made other than early to mid 70s. That being said, I am a bit confused by something. The barrel also says "Made in Germany" as opposed to "Made in West Germany" so I am assuming the barrel had been replaced at some point more recently? Any thoughts there?

What I find very cool about this gun is that it has the German Feimark on the barrel which, according to a Tom Gaylord publication, would mean this gun was originally built for the German sub 7.5J/5.5ftlb market. It would also mean that if it still has the original piston is slightly short stroked compared to most export 35s to reduce power. Based on the shot cycle and the 6.2fpe I'm getting from my chrono numbers, I'd say its probably original inside with the exception of the updated seals and spring. Now of course this all assuming the barrel stamp to be correct which I'm thinking its probably not unless I'm missing something. Anyway, here are some pictures. If any of the Weihrauch experts have anything to add, please do!

how many of you store your gun with one pump of air in it?
I always have but don't remember why, was it in the manual?

Up for sale is a Taipan Mutant .22 Cal.
Love this gun but I don’t have to shoot them all. Cleaning out the safe. Super accurate, super quiet. Has the 1/2x28 threaded end to add your favorite moderator but really doesn’t need any bits extremely quiet as it is. Shoots the 18gr JSB at around 890 fps consistently. Bipod, scope and rings not included. Comes with 2 Mags and factory box.

790 shipped to the continental USA.
PAYPAL FRIENDS AND FAMILY AS USUAL.

CALL OR TEXT WITH ANY QUESTIONS
602-489-8828 Rafael