DID ANYONE REMOVED THE RAIL FROM THE GHOST TO MOUNT THE SCOPE LOWER?

Coming back into the hobby after a long illness. Been around since the beginning of this forum and watched many forums collapse over the last 18 years. This is my first thread

I know this has been hashed a bunch and we all know the brand that gets chastised the most for it. I am looking for everyone’s input. Now I can see if the poi starts moving around during your shooting session and the wind hasn’t changed that’s a problem. But from day to day or whatever time frame you pick is it that uncommon ? I watch a particular PB channel on YouTube that puts out a video every single day. He has and does a lot of gun reviews. I’ve seen numerous times where he takes a PB rifle out that was perfectly zeroed at some point prior as I’ve seen it used in prior shooting or hunting vids. In subsequent videos it’s the exact same setup. They almost always require a slight re zero, never being the exact same from previous use

AirForce Talon SS in .22, worst PCP in my experience. Yes, I'm ashamed with increasing continuing guilt because my first PCP was actually a Talon SS in .22. That blasted thing would not keep zero. The adjustment spring wheel didn't help either. The bottle, couldn't keep consistent on which way to remove. The set screws for the barrel etc where a horrible balancing act to align. Regardless, I'm absolutely embarrassed and time to come clean. I still will claim my first true PCP is the Taipan Veteran 1. That SOB will absolutely slam a Talon SS into the ground, no doubts in my mind. My apologies., yeah, I lied what my first PCP was. I actually trash canned that rifle into the landfill as it was so bad. Cheers, Norm

Apologies for a long one
I'm assuming that it hasn't been just me watching the hour meter climb and wondering whether, "Have I been greasing enough, or over greasing?" Or, "Does my connecting rod still have grease?"
Well I figured I'd find out since no one has post anything about a long term PM check and show what was found.
As can be seen every bit of the grease was black. I concluded that the coloration is probably just minuit o-ring wear particulars since none of the grease had any hint of unusual/burnt smell. Rub an o-ring with some sand paper, even 2000 grit, and it's like graphite powder turning everything black. And even a little would a long way when mixed with clear grease. (Correct me if I'm wrong.)
Wasn't surprised to find water in the piston since I'm in a high humidity environment and always blowing water out the bleeder.
My apologies for not taking pics of second stage cylinder o-ring arrangement. Thought I did. It was pretty gunky though as can be seen by the base and inner cylinder.
The final stage piston rod looked awful as you can seen. I'm now leaning towards believing that I've possible over greased at some point. However there's nothing that I've found anywhere to give it any sort of comparison with after long term use.
Despite all appearances I've probably lost 3 to 4 seconds max off dead head test from new.
Following the Jason S video off YT, disassembly and reassembly isn't difficult. But there nothing about replacing anything other than a vague cleaning of the piston rod (I opted not to try that). He's simply pulling a new apart and sliding it back together.
The rebuild kit that comes with compressor, or can be purchased, isn't nearly adequate enough. There's little springs, check valve balls, and o-rings they should have included. Drop one, or damage one and You Are Screwed. On that note I only replaced the large inner piston o-ring included with the kit (rounded edges were obviously flattened off), and did it cautiously because there's hidden springs underneath the lower plastic ring. The larger cylinder o-rings should also be included just for general principal replacement after disassembly.
Also not included are the bonded sealing washer (Dowty Seals) for the pressure lines. One of mine blew when pressure testing after reassembly. I've ordered some that hopefully should work. Mean while I did a temporary make work thing I wouldn't recommend, so not describing.
Did a mild greasing of moving o-rings during assembly, and gave knob 1/2 turn when running. Stationary sealing o-rings I lubed generously to insure a seal since no way to replace them.
Final results are that I'm simply back at my original out of the box dead head. For all the effort, cost of buying new bonded seals, and trepidation of screwing up what didn't have parts to fix, gaining back 3 or 4 seconds of dead head wasn't worth it.
So my opinion is go light on the grease, and just run them till they quit.
If everything single thing possibly needed was in a rebuild kit I might say otherwise. And then only recommend it being done by someone with mechanical abilities and patience to deal with tiny parts.
Also the connecting rod has uncaged roller bearings, slip those all the way out and you'll have a very unpleasant day. It does appear that they've stayed lubricated though.
Hope the was helpful

Fired once when I picked her up at New England Airgun from John. I did add a metal pic rail adapter on the back and top, otherwise she's sat in a case, I've moved to a free state so I don't feel the need to hoard PCPs anymore. Pictures speak for themselves, she holds air longer than any other gun I've ever owned.

$1000 shipped, let me know if you have any questions.

I've been out of town for a little over a week and my rifle has lost 30 bar of pressure from the 480cc bottle. Is this something normal and expected, or do I have to find and fix a slow leak?

I came across a Nouge compressor. It is very similar in construction to the Hatsan Spark except for the power input terminals. Does anyone have any info on the specific model, perhaps a manual?

Wanting to sell my FX Chrono have too many now open to trades offers comes with case

850.00 Shipped CONUS This Umarex Zelos is a pretty nice rig. Shoots 3/4 inch (19mm) groups at 50 yards. Averaging 840fps & 40fpe with JSB 25.39's. See pictures for chronograph information. Plenty of room to power it up more if you want. The current tune works well for me.
I also drilled a hole in the butt stock frame to make the hammer spring screw easier to access. All you have to do is loosen the butt pad and slide it down a bit. Then you can adjust it with a small screwdriver.

Features a Westhunter 6-24x50 FFP Side Focus Scope, Hogue Overmold Red Lava grip, Tuxing 700cc CF bottle and a no name bipod.
Comes with two magazines and one of my BJC Heiress Moderators.

Great rifle. Please feel free to ask any questions. Thanks for looking and Happy Shooting

"As new" Labradar, case and external battery pack.

The screen still has its protective cover on!

Got as part of a large trade. Don't need it, never used it.

$250 - shipped CONUS

For those who have one, what’s your experience with leaks? Have you resealed it with new O rings and then had leaks again?
I bought one used and it developed a slow leak. In about a week it’s down to 1000 lb. I lowered the hammer spring tension and tightened the transfer port to get it down to about 700 fps. About 4 months after that it started leaking. I’m not sure if that had anything to do with it or not…

Here’s where I’m at with it. It’s a classic gun so not a bad one to have around. Parts being readily available… not really worth the effort to sell a leaking used one. Do I tear it down and put in all the goodies like an after market valve, hammer and spring plus seals? Or is the leaking just too prevalent with these guns it’s not worth the time and effort? Thoughts?

Ordered a custom field target pistol from Airgun Revisions. I have two tins of pellets through it. Added some nice furniture to it today. Amazingly accurate pistol. The 10.3's seem to buck the wind like a .22. Put a Burris 2-7x32 pistol scope on it. Hitting spinners and cans with aplomb in a stiff breeze. Thirty regulated shots. Very satisfied customer.

Price Drop…

Beautiful Meopta Optika6 5-30 with MRAD RD FFP reticle for sale. Excellent condition, purchased new by me. Everything from factory box included.

Asking $650 shipped. I normally use PayPal, but am open to other methods depending on buyer.

An interesting new model that JTS showed at the shot show is a barrel cocking “Target” rifle. Super 9X. Match barrel and match trigger. Target sights. Internals are said to be of the highest quality. The picatinny rail is removable to expose the dovetail. Could handle a Diopter sight then. $140. Supposed to be here this fall. I like the high comb and checkering on the pistol grip and forearm. Looks like a Weihrauch of yesterday. Very traditional. Appears well thought out. This is the one I want to see. Borrowed pictures.

A caliber with more punch and weight that .25, better bc than .30, more fps than .30 and super accurate and energy keeper at long distance to assure killing power and accuracy.

If you’re into big-bores and like to show off your guns this thread’s for you. So let’s see your guns, setups, and savage long-range groups. Let us know if you’re a moderated sniper or slinging lead loud and proud!

No pea shooters allowed. If you aren’t producing 200 FPE or better, this isn’t the place unless we’re talking a big bore that can also sling air bolts. Feel free to post links to threads of your hunts of hunting photos with your big bore. Since this is not the bunting forum, please refrain from posting photos of dead animals here. Here is a more appropriate forum to post hunting photos https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/photo-thread-quarry-and-the-airgun-that-took-it.1197241/


Benjamin Bulldog M357 with bucket and shooting stick/bipod, mag, and slug. Second photo M357 doing a POI check and ammo testing in preparation for a hunt.


Western Rattler .357 doing some long-range slug testing.

While blueing is commonplace with steel guns, I’ve never seen it done with alloy. I think the most common alloy used in many airguns is zamac. I remember people saying you can’t blue that stuff, only paint it or anodize it. Is this still true or is there something new out there?

all next week in the 90 degrees daytime . and nice warm nighttime @ 74 Summer is here ! 3 to 5 MPH breeze !!! I think i will go through a lot of pellets .

Hi lads, its summer and I'm puting time to refine my pistols.



Those are with a pp800 at 10m off hand, and I'm not happy at all, I can group much better with the 50 buck p17 China clone, so I'm considering to get another more precise gun.

-Must be .177
-Enough power to do etical pest control and small game (that discards the p17)
-A pistol, not a 40cm long, 2kg Star wars reject, better -30cm 1 kg or so max.
-Competition like precision.
-Cheap.

I'm looking the Zoraki- hp1 (not ultra)/Webley Alecto, and I think I read somewhere that the pp800 can be really good if you change the barrel. Yeah I know that youtuber do much better groups with the pp800, but I bet he have been given a tweaked demo model or something.
Is there other less known options that can take on target pistols?

Or is it just the SLS

WHAT IS A GOOD BENCH REST AND REAR REST FOR THE GHOST?

Selling my FX wireless Chronograph. Perfect condition, still in the box. Used very little. Very easy to use.
Shipping to lower 48 for $10.

Hello Nation,

I'm looking for an o'ring set that will help keep my rifles up and going. I am aware that there are vendors that sell reseal kits for certain rifles, but I'm looking for something more comprehensive and less specific. I have a Zelos that lost 500 PSI overnight, so I need to identify the leak. I also have three other rifles that will inevitably need o'rings in the future. Any recommendations?

ZV

I am in the process of finding a good combo pellet/slug and velocity for my AEA Challenger Bullpup .25. Today, while shooting a few 5-shots
groups I got these:
View attachment 571956

View attachment 571954
First group shot, 1" ctc, second group 3/8" ctc, third group 3/4". Same distance (32 yds.), same overall conditions. What can explain such a big difference between groups 1 and 2? Can something be concluded about the gun accuracy? This pattern of good/regular/poor groups repeat itself time and time again. Frustrating...