I started with a ToAuto shoebox compressor, but I’ve quickly outgrown it. Decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to a GX CS4 after reading a lot of advice here.

My question is whether the pictured filter and molecular sieve are sufficient or if I should look at something different.

Hello guys. I'm owning wildcat MK3 and everything was perfect until I decided to play a bit with my gun. This is what I did.
I increased reg pressure from 90bar to 110. Installed pin probe and heavier 13gr hammer. After all of this changes the power of my gun increased from around 40 joules to around 57. And here is where strange things start to happen. My power adjustment wheel was not making any difference in velocity speed. Further more, at some point when I played a bit with adjustment screw I got higher velocity on setting 1 than on 7. It should be the other way around. Then I decreased a bit regulator pressure back to 100bar and I switched back to oryginal hammer. Now it doesn't shoot at all. It looks like some air is getting to the barrel. I can hear some air released from barrel when takie probe back from the barrel with cocking lever. To release remaining in barrel slug I installed back the heavier hammer and it shoots back again. I changed to lighter and it's not shooting as the hammer would not have enough power to open the valve. Do you have any idea on what can be wrong?

I have been watching YouTube videos on M4 since M4 has been released.

A lot of things have already been said in the videos. But I understand that an important comparison between M4 and M3 has not been made, neither their pros and cons have been discussed.

My following video gives insight into the pros and cons and comparison.

I hope it would be interesting for technical readers.


Regards,

Bhaur

I just finished up a custom parallax wheel for my FT rig. I think it turned out pretty good!
I've been using a Nikko Diamond Sterling 10x50x60 and really like the scope. I bought it used more than 10 years ago and it came with a "comma" style parallax wheel. It served me well but I didn't like the design since the effective are of the comma was pretty small. You can see from the pic below I had to transition from the comma wheel to the smaller diameter factory knob for anything much below 35Y. It turned out it wasnt a huge deal because my trajectory was at peak from 25Y-35Y so I didnt really lose much function in that range. None the less, I wanted to upgrade to a larger and wheel that was effective over the whole FT range of 10Y-55Y. The pics below show what I came up with.

This one shows the "original" condition as-purchased.


I started out with a hand sketch to get the general design


Next up was to model it in CAD. I used Fusion 360.


You can see the "tabs" left in to hold the part in place so it didnt come loose and break the end mill.

Next up was to configure the CAM (computer aided machining) to direct the end mill in the right sequence.


The pic below shows the stock bolted to the table and the facing operation complete.



Even with the flood coolant on, the "pocket clearing" operation used to open up the inner holes made a huge mess. I took a break here to vacuum up the chips.



The pic below shows the outline machined. Since some of the facing cuts required removing some of the hold down bolts, I also used powdercoating tape to secure the part to the table. Its about .002 thick. It amazes me that the cutter was able to cut all the aluminum out without cutting into the tape! This is a hobby grade CNC mill but Im pretty damn impressed with the accuracy.


My design uses a non-removable wheel. The Nikko scope parallax rotates in the opposite direction of many scopes. This puts the large portion of the wheel on the bottom side where its not much in the way. I had to get a bit creative to cut the slit in the clamping tab. I used a manual mill and a slitting saw for that operation. My clamping solution was rock solid and with light cuts, I had no problem.



The finished part was in good shape but I wasnt a fan of the end mill tracks so I used a random orbit sander to put a nice matt finish on it.



For the inside holes, I used some scotch brite to give it a uniform appearance.


The drilling and tapping was also done on the manual mill but I didnt snap any pics of the process.

The finished product turned out great. Its rock solid and gave me plenty of room in between the yardage marks at the far end ranges.



Overall, Im very pleased. It was a lot of work though. It doesnt look like it should have taken very long, but I probably put about 10 hours into the whole process.
Hopefully it serves me well. At least until I decide to switch scopes and need to re-invent the wheel!
With as much work as it took, it makes the pricing on the commercially available models seem pretty reasonable.

Anyway, I figured I'd share the pics of the process. I always enjoy looking at projects like these.

All the best,
Brian

I've been doing a lot of shooting this summer and shooting a lot of different guns, and not a single one of them shoots H&N pellets well. In fact, Crosman domed pellets from Walmart beats H&N in every gun I own. What gives? I've heard and read of good results, but it's never the case with me. I have a Katran .177, an R10 .177, a Brk Sniper .22, a AR Challenger HFT and an HW100 .22 to name a few, and none of these are pellet picky at all, but none of them will shoot H&N well. I've tried FTT and Barracuda and even shot some match wadcutters in my Challenger 2021, which shoots almost anything well and no go.
What gives? This can't be the norm for H&N can it?

I just cannot figure out how to properly load a CS4 grease pot
i would like to see a picture of where exactly the grease and the rubber diaphragm go.
And how to retract the screw threads that force the gease into the compressor
Apologies
But sometimes simple things confound me
Thanks
Edward

I want to say first and foremost, I don't typically experiment with projectiles. I find one that works for me and stick with it. With that said, I have experiences really with only these two projectiles.

A few years ago, when I was tuning my Taipan Veteran Long .22, I tuned it to shoot JSB Hades. Everywhere I read, it states the BC is at around 0.026. I initially used 0.023 BC but I noticed that my shots have been consistently low. I finally decided to test it on my own and put the chronograph 30m down range. I was surprised to find that it was only 0.017 BC for the Hades. I used 0.017 and since then I haven't had to touch. The Sig Sauer laser rangefinder with ballistics calculator built in that I've been using has always been spot on with 0.017 BC and I've shot all the way out to 66 meters with this gun. Searching the forums, I've found at least one other person who posted that they got the exact same 0.017 BC for the .22 Hades when they tested themselves.

This morning, I started experimenting with slugs. I tested two sizes of the NSA .22 17.5gr slugs. The specs for this particular slug is 0.075 according to the NSA website. With the chronograph 31 meters downrange, I only got 0.043 BC.

For both the Hades and NSA calculations, I used the JBM Ballistics calculator and I input the proper ambient temperature, humidity, atmospheric pressure, and elevation. Funny enough, even when I used the calculator in Strelok Pro that only allows input for near and far velocities, I still got the same 0.043 BC for the NSA.

Could someone please inform me of what is going on? Even Hard Air Magazine got, I believe, 0.023 BC for the Hades with the LabRadar. How can I be so far off but still be on target???

Hi All,

Picked this up very recently and got a deal on a GRS version so snapped that up and moving this along.

FX Crown MK2 .22 700mm with a 700cc bottle.

Gun is in as new condition and bottle and valance were bought new less than 30 days ago.

Not much to say besides it shoots like a FX.

Will ship with one mag in hard case.

I would say 1300 and split shipping seems fair….

Scope, rings, Atlas bipod, bottle clamp, moderator not included in sale.

The hour meter on my compressor reads in tenths. Right now it reads 13.8
How do I convert this reading to hours and minutes?

Hello, I’m in the Portland area and new to the site. I got into air guns when some rat traps “didn’t meet specs”. I’m looking for places to shoot, people to shoot with and maybe some pest/invasive species control opportunities.

My arsenal is limited to a .25 Hatsan and a .22 American Classic but I’m looking to expand.

A couple years back I decided to have my D34 tuned and a Vortek kit installed. I shipped it to a reputable Smith and things were just groovy. Upon return the box was damaged but the gun looked fine. I mounted a scope and zeroed it. No problems. It shot beautifully.

A few weeks ago I decided to take the scope off and shoot it bare. When I zeroed the iron sights I noticed the back sight was screwed left almost to the limit. A quick check revealed the scope too was zeroed almost to the limits of the windage screw. A careful check with a straight edge showed a very slight, almost imperceptible bend to the right. It must have been damaged by UPS when they shipped it back. I just didn't realize it.

I did some research and decided to bend the barrel back to center. I made sure the front sight was plumb and centered the rear sight. I made up a maple jig that fit the barrel then set the whole mess in my bench vice and proceeded to add pressure.

A straight edge across the top from the front post through the rear sight told me exactly how much bend I was giving it. I would apply force until I got a bend and then test fired a pattern.

I started slow and the first few tries the barrel would just spring back to the same POI. But after a brief learning curve I started to make headway. The gun started out shooting 4" right at 10 yards. After 13 "bends" I got the pattern right in the middle of the dot.

I optically centered the scope using a mirror and mounted it on the rifle. It was 4 clicks right and 10 clicks low at 25 yards.

The entire process from making a jig to sighting the scope took less than 2 hours. The gun shoots as good or better than it did before. No affect on accuracy at all.

I sweated and fretted the first few bends. That barrel was WAY over to the left when I put pressure on the jig. But it sprang back nicely. When it was all said and done you couldn't tell it was ever bent. Now when passing a straight edge across the (centered) sights it comes across the center of the receiver at the rear. When I started the process it was at the extreme left edge.

I was so happy with the results I decided to bend a hatsan 95 barrel that had snapped up and bent. It was easy. 3 bends and it brought the POI back down to zero at 25 with an optically centered scope. The iron sights jibe perfectly. I didn't touch the scope adjustments at all to get zero. The rear iron sight is pretty much centered in its vertical travel. Horizontally it zeros exactly in the center.

What a hoot. I would have never thought you could bend a barrel back straight again with a stick and a vice. Well I was wrong. You can. It's not difficult at all and it's a bunch better than dealing with adjustable mounts and scope shims.

Attached is a photo of the rifle and the jig I made to straighten the barrel. Just a piece of maple cut to length with a lug at both ends. I cut a saddle in the front lug for the barrel. The rear lug is square and rests against the pivot block. It's as simple as clamping it in a vice and turning the handle until you think it bent a little. Then test firing and repeating until the rifle's POA and POI are in the same spot.

Re my Commander XR Magnum in 5.5mm:

I got it about 2 weeks ago. New. I spent 2 weeks testing virtually every pellet and slug in various head sizes and weights from 18.1gn to 33.956gn. I am obsessed with accuracy and shoot for an hour or three in my backyard at 50m. I demand very low single digit standard deviations in velocity. I am experienced in tuning.

I've managed to get my SDs where I want them but at 30m the all I get is 3/4" or 1" groups no matter what pellet or slug I use. I run my pellets at 888 fps or so and slugs at 1009 or so.

I've checked for loose screws and bolts, The barrel and shroud is tiht as it should be.

I've tested it with moderators on and off. (no difference)

This type of group is regardless of what ammo I am using and I've varied the speeds to see if that made a difference. It hasn't.

I've changed scopes, optical and digital to see if it was a mounting or scope issue. It isn't.

I clean my barrel every 100 to 200 pellets.

So far I've shot well over 1000 pellets/slugs with the Brocock/BRK Commander XR Magnum.

I am not shooting in moderate or strong wind.

I am looking for suggestions as to why can't I get the tight MOA groups that I usually get with my other PCPs

PS: I also have a Commander XR (not Magnum) in 5.5mm and I get MOA accuracy from it at 50m.

TIA.
#Brocock #CommanderXRMagnum #Accuracy #NotAccurate

I received this wonderful Cometa from Jon tuned and with a brass trigger! Mounted a Hawke 3x9 scope and ended up with a tack driver. Easy to cock and a pleasure to shoot!

I have a Beeman under lever with a composite stock. I'm looking to trade for or purchase a wood stock for the same. Mine is in great condition, no marks at all. Not a flimsy piece of plastic, pretty solid. Has a built in magazine holder. I'm just wanting to change things up a bit.
thanks
Mike

Check out this video of us taking the M4 out on a Prairie Dog hunt to see what they were capable of!


*Warning - video contains Hunting content*

I just mounted this Seals 6x24x50 scope on my QB78S rifle. And so far it’s a good combo.

Bone stock Notos and as my first mod I did the FX 500mm barrel kit. I chose the superior heavy liner as I plan to mainly shoot slugs. I haven't touched anything else but the barrel swap.

So I was shooting 15.4 gamo pellets @740ish and 23gr NSA slugs @ 650ish. After the 500mm kit I lost quite a bit of speed. The 15.4s are 660ish now and the 23gr are 550ish.

Any one have an idea as to why? More curious as to understanding why the loss in speed.

I plan to fully port and big bottle/reg swap too along with custom spring and hammer stuff too at a later point. So I know I'll pick up speed at a later point.

Max armory taking pre orders.

Hello all!

I've got two PCPs right now. An Uragan 2 600 with laminate stock and an FX Dreamline tactical with bottle. Both in .22
I've got a buyer for the dreamline and I'm thinking I'm going to let it go.
The thing is, I love my uragan to use mostly as a bench gun, but to use as handheld is just too heavy with scope fot hunting. I can use it, but is not ideal. The gun is 3500gr, with scope and silencer (Donny Sumo) is around 4500gr.

I'm looking for a really light but with some power in .22 setup to use on the go, but that is capable to shoot up to 80yards.
I could just use my Dreamline and adapt it, or I could sell and buy a new shorter and light gun.
I looked most into the Airmaks Krait (powerful, short and 2500gr) and to the BRK Ranger XR (less power, also 2500gr but should be really shouldable), but I'm open to anything really. The FX Panthera compact hunter also looks good, but a bit heavier.
I was also thinking of using an primatic scope like the Element Immersive 10x or the MTC to lower the weight, or a really compact scope like the vector veyron.

So, what setup would you guys sugest for compact shoulder hunting?

Is there a free website that will tell you who owns a residence by entering an address?

I’m pretty sure everyone knows about the NEW FX IMPACT M4 , I saw Justine’s video and basically FX did a facelift to the gun with a few changes, I would like to see your thoughts and opinions. Be safe

This is very different than small bore, power, and shot count come to mind quickly. However, the accuracy issues and recoil also will reveal themselves as one pursues this niche of the hobby. From my limited experience, AAA is the gold standard, AEA is very affordable! However, how many others are there really? Not a small bore attempting to pass itself off. Now there is the Bulldog/ pitbull. As well as the Russian ataman series. What is the real shot count and performance of these bad boys? Thanks

If anyone see parts they want that are on my akela just hit me up i tell you where to get one.

Guys, is it only me or is it really more convenient to have a charging handle on the left side? I'm right-handed, and recently I got in my hands a couple of Marauder bullpups that were converted to left side charging handle. Before swapping them out to the right side, I tried shooting them and it actually feels good. Especially for bullpup configuration. I don't need to let go of the pistol grip with my right hand and can keep the rifle sighted, while with the left hand I can feed the next round. I wonder if anyone has the same experience and prefers the charging handle to be on the left side instead of the right. Thanks guys!

Let me explain, first off, I love BOTH of these platforms. But, for competitive purposes, let’s critique them. Appearance, epic, either version, carbon fiber wrap gives a sleek appearance. Power capabilities- equal, Vulcan 3 is a bad dude! But so is the Epic. The irritating hammer pings? Well, the Epic 2 had it, hands down but is a longer gun. But, with the ability to adjust the reg significantly higher, you cal use a shorter barrel. The Epic has an external adjustable reg, Vulcan 3 does not. Both have unchoked barrel. Both have big power. Now, the epic 1 hasn’t appeared yet, but the Vulcan 3, as awesome as it is, will finish behind. But! The Vulcan 3 is about $400 cheaper. It’s also a robust platform. Upon reflection, the Eastern European dudes got their sh** squared away. JMHO.