Attached are few groups with my Daystate Red Wolf, good groups but one pellets shoots away, any suggestion to squeeze the group further. I am using Heliaboard and had a very little variation in velocity. Groups are after ckeaning barrel, taking around 35 shots and made these groups.

I was directed here by a an another member of a firearm forum I'm a member of. And been a member there for over a decade using the same screen name. I won't post which, so as not break any rules I don't know about yet.

Looking for information, knowledge and expertise in this new, to me, discipline of shooting. For now, I think I'll be doing a lot more perusing and reading than posting.

Selling a very nice Element Helix 6-24x50 MRAD FFP scope. Comes with throw lever, parallax wheel, and scope covers. Has the clean reticle which I tried to get a pic of. No sunshade.

Asking $300 shipped in the Cont 48. Paypal or USPS Money Order

Hi Folks,
I have a very specific question for pest controllers who have experiance and knowledge in this very specific situation…
I have been asked to shoot some pigeons in the enterance way to a building. The distance is about 10m (11yards). Easy shot, right? However there is a glass roof to this entrance hall .
This question is aimed at people who have EXPERIENCE in shooting pigeons at close range with LOW powered air rifles.
My question is what FPE is needed to dispatch a pigeon at 11y, with out exiting the bird?
What set up do you use, pellet caliber, weight, shape, fps, fpe and what results (pass through or not) do you get.
Thanks in advance.
Pete.

Please let me know what you can about the Benjamin Ecko PCP Air Rifle BPE25…

https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/benjamin-kyro.1284471/

If I leave my gun cocked and locked (with the safety on of course) overnight hurt anything like the hammer spring?

Post update:
At this point, I am not planning to split up the sale into individual parts.
If thing change in the next month or so, I will change my listing.

Off my FX M3 700 sniper
Dual 700cc Tuxing bottles and Saber Tactical dual bottle adapter

If you want your FX to look bad ass at your club range, you need this!
The stock M3 bottle is only 580 cc and shoots approximately 3 full .25 cal magazines. It all depends on your tune.

With 1400 cc I shoot all day without refilling. All items purchased August 2022 and are in very good condition. Each bottle has it's own bottle valve fitting. So just screw it on and go!

$400 includes USPS Priority shipping in the US. PayPal FF only.

I shoot at the Diablo Rod and Gun club in Concord, CA "almost" every Wed 9-12 and from lane #8 if you want to pay cash.
Rod View attachment rsz_320230712_172030.jpgView attachment rsz_20230712_093809.jpgView attachment rsz_20230712_172216.jpg

Okay several things going on in my life, one a couple of new firearms purchases the last 2 months, engaged and the Prophet 3 Performance in 22 cal came, last two are the change. Well all of them, life is about change and additions.

Originally I was going to go with the P3 Performance Compact, but I had a phone chat with Alex of Air Rifle Activities and he made the rational the standard version will be more versatile. I can always modular down to compact if I want.

I got the gun two weeks ago, but the next day I flew to The Netherlands for training and to see my girlfriend, now fiancee. She is amazing, speaks 6 languages, studying a masters in PT and has a heart of gold, my friends in The Netherlands love her. And she has a cool ass yorkie named Pepper. We have started the process for her to move to USA, but glaciers move faster, so lets see how it goes.

The Prophet 3 is another story, it is built for purpose. When comparing it to my P1 several things stand out beyond the obvious changes in design. One is it is more refined with better metal work. To sum up the fit and finish is better, and it comes with a cool new t-shirt.

As you can see the rifle came set at 90 bar, and I have put a couple hades through it to get a "feel" and the mean fpe was 31 ft/lbs at 930 fps, this ia bit fast for hades, so I am going to try some 18 grainers along with 25 grain when they come in. I have slugs too.

Published power range of the gun is from 32 to 65 fpe. At 32 the shot count is 170 according to the data. and a while back I bought a RTI Hush suppressor, well, it lives up to its name, the gun is for sure quieter than my Ranger which is shooting almost half the energy as the P3.

RTI knows how to build a quality gun, that is for sure, and like any manufactures they have their lessons learned and RTI learns from their missteps. Ps let me report that later.

My M3 performed flawlessly for the first couple months after I purchased it. I had it tuned to 1/2” groups at 50 yards with the 2nd reg at 150bar and velocity at 990fps +/- 3fps. Every time I took it out it was dialed in. But I did noticed that whenever I took it out after it had been sitting for a day or two that the first 5-6 shots were slow. They would be something like this: 930, 950, 960, 970, 980, 990. I figured I could deal with this. Before hunting I would dry fire the gun around 6 times.

I took a break from shooting during the past 2 months. I did not make any changes to the gun during this time. It just sat in its case. I took it out to shoot. I checked to make sure that the reg pressure, valve and hammer were all set to where they were they had been when the gun was dialed in at 990fps. The first shot was 850fps! Over the course of 20 SHOTS the velocity eventually climbed to 990. I thought maybe things just needed to get warmed up after being unused for so long.

But then I tested a shorter time interval between shots. I took 10 a minute break, then the took a shot. 960! After just 10 minutes a drop of 30fps! Then over the course of 5 shots it climbed back to 990. This is not how it behaved before. If I had taken a 10 minute break 2 months ago, there would be no change in velocity.

The next day I took the gun out again and the first shot was 930fps. 15 more shots and it’s back up to 990.

Any ideas guys?


UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

SOLUTION(S):

I did several things, all addressing the issue of friction between the valve rod & plenum nose o-ring. I made all of these changes at the same time because I didn’t want to disassemble the rifle, make a change, reassemble, let the gun sit overnight, test, then repeat the process for each change. As a result I’m not sure which change had the most significant affect on resolving the issue, but all of these changes could only help resolve this problem in the present and prevent it from happening again as quickly in the future.

For reference there are 2 images of the valve rod and valve tube assembly schematic below.
Here’s a link to the entire FX Impact M3 schematic:
https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F10370-Impact-M3.pdf

I disassembled the gun down to the valve rod and on the 2 inch section that slides in and out of the Valvetube End (part 10338) there was a grippy grey residue. This was from the o-ring (part 19768, O-ring 2.84x2.62 PUR90) in the valvetube wearing away onto the valve rod, perhaps due to just normal use, not enough lube being applied at the factory, o-ring shrinking overtime - likely multiple reasons.

I did several things to reduce valve rod friction:

• DEBURRED the ends of my HAMMER SPRING with a rotary tool. Some hammer springs have burrs on the ends that can cause inconsistent velocities. Not all springs have these burrs, but if you notice that yours does, then sand them down with a rotary tool, fine file, or sand paper.
• CLEANED o-ring residue on the valve rod with rubbing alcohol.
• POLISHED the valve rod: Used a polishing compound and microfiber cloth to polish the valve rod until it had a shinny mirror-like finish. Took about 10 minutes. I used Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner, available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSOW4
• UPGRADED THE O-RING THAT THE VALVE ROD SLIDES THROUGH/AGAINST: I purchased an improved valve rod o-ring, which is made from a harder and smoother material than the stock o-ring. Here is a link to where you can buy this o-ring: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267168330592 For reference it is O-ring 103 (part 19768) in the schematic below.
• LUBED THE UPGRADED O-RING with SuperLube Synthetic Grease rather than silicone oil. The maker of the ungraded o-ring said that SuperLube keeps this o-ring lubed better and longer than silicone-based lubes. Here's a link to the specific SuperLube he recommends: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref He said that he uses this SuperLube on ALL of the o-rings in his M3 because, again, he has found it to keep the o-rings better lubed and lubed for longer.
• 
  
• (NOTE: The last step I took below is likely unnecessary, and the above steps will probably solve the problem for most people)
• UPGRADED THE VALVETUBE: I purchased a custom valvetube from AGN member mubhaur. This valvetube has a PEEK SPACER/BUSHING inside the valvetube next to the o-ring (part 19768). The valvetube that comes stock on the M3 doesn’t have a threaded end that allows it to be removed so that the two o-rings inside the valvetube can be easily accessed. So it was difficult to replace the 2 o-rings inside of FX's valvetube. The stock valvetube also doesn’t have a high strength peek spacer/bushing to support the sealing function of o-ring 19768. The peek bushing also ensures that there isn’t any metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and the valvetube. He explains the rational for his design in the video below at the end of this post.

After these changes, when the gun sits overnight, not even first shot is slow. The fps is exactly what it was when I last shot. Velocity is also more consistent. Fps spread used to be +/- 6fps. Now it’s +/- 2.

As described in the original post, before these changes the first 20 shots would be slow: starting at 100 fps slow and gradually increasing with each shot. And if the gun sat for just 10 minutes the fps would drop by 30 fps.

***MORE INFORMATION***
The seller of these o-rings https://www.ebay.com/usr/mudpro1 is very knowledgeable about this issue with the M3/M4. He answered all my questions regarding how this o-ring could make a significant difference. He owns an M3 Impact and was experiencing this same problem. FX didn't offer him any help after months of contacting them, so he decided to make his own fix. He is a machinist who makes precision parts for a living, so he has access to many manufacturing resources. He had these o-rings made specifically for this issue with the M3/4. These o-rings are harder and smoother than the stock o-rings.

The seller of this upgraded o-ring also makes an upgraded valvetube that utilizes a peek bushing held in place by a thumb screw, which results in less o-ring compression and ensures that there is no metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and valvetube. I didn't purchase his valvetube because the upgraded valvetuve that I purchased from AGN member mubhaur has been working very well now that I have the upgraded o-ring. Both of these improved plenums have a similar design, incorporating the peak bushing and a removable screw for easy access to the inside of the valvetube. The ebay seller does not have his custom valvetube listed on ebay yet. Message him directly on ebay if you'd like to purchase it, and to ask him questions. He's very helpful and knowledgeable.

So until FX provides us with a redesigned plenum nose, more durable valve rod o-rings, and a smoother valve rod, those of us who are experiencing this issue with our M3s and M4s should do these things:

1. Deburr the ends of your hammer spring if you see a burr.
2. Polish our valve rods (see the update to the main post for how to do this. $15 for polishing compound)
3. Upgrade our valve-rod o-rings ($12 from ebay seller mudpro1)
4. Lube the o-rings with SuperLube Synthetic Grease (around $7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref)
5. If the above 4 don't fix the issue to your satisfaction, then consider buying a redesigned plenum nose from either mubhaur or https://www.ebay.com/usr/mudpro1 Both of them charge around $225-250 for this piece.
==========

Over on AA it looks like RWS 48 made a BENJAMIN MARAUDER SEMI-or similar i wisent aware of

it?

Hey all, just wanted to give a heads up on loaning out your PCPs. I had a very good friend who wanted to borrow one of my PCPs so I happily lent it to him in a nice hard case as anyone would. A few weeks passed and I felt like generosity was creeping towards abuse. Long story short I had a mild confrontation when I FINALLY got my hard case back only to open it up and find two tuned P-Rods in it rather than the Notos I had loaned out.

Rather than lose a friendship I ordered another and let my friend keep it. No idea what to do with these P-Rods though. I guess I will set a few cans up 20’ away and let the kids plink at them. I would think the pellet drop wouldnt be that bad for them.

Just curious what's the most popular caliber for compacts around here.

If you have more than one choose the one you most often use.

are there any options to the HW 90 pump and gauge . i really have a fascination with the tunability of the HW 90 . Would a hand pump with the correct fitting work ?
Thank you Stan in KY

I just ordered a PCP and am considering a Huma air regulator for it.

It's a AEA HP SS MAX in 30 cal (I know they have their haters but it fit my needs and budget - I hope I don't get a lemon)

Other than a slight power loss, are there any pitfalls in adding aftermarket regulators?

I was going to change the hammer spring on my Impact MK2.. Then this happened to the valve stop... I hope FX helps... This is the strangest thing I ever saw.. The tech from FX was the last to remove this..

.

Hey guys, new to the forums and frankly pcp world. I got my first a gauntlet 30 a couple months ago, and am now looking for another.

im looking to get a pistol or carbine, .22-.25 and SEMI AUTO.

I wish I could get an evanix viper, it’s just a little out of my budget. I’m thinking either aea hp ss or Hassan sortie.

I have zero experience with either, but they both look decent on paper.

Any preferences between them, or any others at entry level pricing I should consider?

thank you all!

After a lot of efforts including modifications of shroud, barrel polishing, installing a barrel holder and now after re crowning the barrel and preparing the breech end, things seems to have been improved greatly.

Here are pics of 10 shot 80 yards group .22 25 grain redesigned monster pellets at around d 920fps.

Also the pics of re crowning procedure.

I couldn't think that Daystate QC would skip the most important parts of the barrel i.e. Crown and breech.

Bhaur

Some of you will guess what pcp this is for, eventually I will reveal the answer if it's not figured out. It is in the prototype stages thus far and so far good results. I am trying to find a source for springs now. If I decide to sell these, will anyone be interested? I am not going to give them away as a lot of time and testing has been invested and they are not being made or sold at least not that I am aware of. I just wanted extra and decided to make my own.

-JP

Introduction:
As someone who grew up shooting an air rifle (and a recurve bow), I shot a springer most of my life. Ten years ago, I bought my first pcp and shortly after my second pcp: an Air Arms S510 Xtra FAC (without the power wheel) that I still shoot to this day. Two weeks ago I had the chance to shoot an FX for the first time, a Panthera 500 in .22 shooting pellets. I thought Panthera’s were pure slug guns (and I’m not that interested in slugs). Turns out the 500 is geared more toward pellet shooting. In the end a very expensive round of shooting, as it caused me to buy a Panthera 500 in .25.

First thoughts:
The first shots came across as unusually quiet. Too quiet, even with a Donnyfl Tatsu at the end of the barrel. Measured the pellet speed at 152 m/s with FX 25.4 gr pellets. And that’s where it begins: I never had an airgun with tuning knobs and power wheels attached to it. Let alone something with tunable regulator pressures. Turns out YouTube is your friend in this matter.

Getting things up to speed:
Regulator pressure was set at 110 bar at the factory so I let the regulator alone thinking FX should know what they’re doing. Turning the power wheel to 13 and slowly increasing hammer spring tension with the barrel adjuster got me to 194 m/s with FX 25.4 gr pellets. At home I’m shooting at 25m and the accuracy wasn’t all that great. At the 50m range it fell apart even further. Weird flyers and pellets wobbling through the air. A single 250 bar fill barely made it through two magazines (32 pellets). Back at home switched to the heavy 34gr FX pellets. Accuracy leaped forward, although one pellet every magazine managed to stray every time and pellet speed dropped to 261 m/s with these heavy pellets.

After a few days of turning knobs I finally gave it two clicks less on the barrel adjuster and landed at 260 m/s average speed. Air consumption went down as I can now get two magazines with room to spare off a 230 bar fill (divers tank dropped to 230 bar). And the gun is a bit quieter now.

Tune settings:

I am just wondering if the manufactures design their products with the amount of use that is present here on AGN ? I read thread after thread about compressors failing even when directions are followed . Maybe the design is for a more casual user , week end and maybe 100 pellets on saturday afternoon ?
Or do they design with Job Security in mind ?
i have 3 PCP rifles and a Omega trail charger , these are all tube rifles no bottle guns . this compressor runs about 1.5 minutes to fill a gun . which is what it was designed as . No problems in over 2 years . I am wondering if maybe i should try a YH and see how long it lasts as a gun only fill option ?

Do you guys always use the hole on the scope grooves to pin your scope rings? I was just curious because I'm really not sure if I even need to on a lockdown mount .

I have a pretty permanent night permission for rats, I also have a few time a year permission for pigeons and starlings but these were through word of mouth/business acquaintances, I am really wanting to add a semi regular day permission to my schedule. I love target shooting, relaxing, enjoying the fresh air but I really really love enjoying that farm air, the noises, and doing a deed for farmers. Theyre often not appreciated like they should be. This is not only a way for me to show appreciation but have a ton of fun as well and hone my skills.

I plan on taking 2-3 days off at the end of the month to drive around to some farms to try and get my way in, I know how to speak to people , I am cordial, polite, greetings of the day so on and so forth. These things were more or less beaten into me at a few different times of my life and IMO are very important ALWAYS. My issue is , I cannot for the life of me figure out the proper wording that will not offend them , I mean, who wants to hear a stranger talking about potential/existing pests and then have that stranger ask for immediate trust to shoot on their property. I know to practice safety for livestock, people, and property first.

I was planning on bringing my Evol mini along, some cardboard boxes with targets on them, range finder, and show them these are not toys and are surgical tools and great in the right hands.

It really is the wording and initial ice breaker that is driving me mad, I do not want to offend and I would prefer success.

I have been trying determine the best weight for an FT rifle. Yep I know that this is a subjective thing but for example:
I had to actually use my digital scale for this as mfgr can be ahhem misleading
My Redwolf rifle laminated, action, stock and scope is 9 lbs = The stock and action alone together weigh = 7.5 lbs
My same Redwolf action and scope in PRS chassis weighs 13 lbs.
all in, my PRS setup / weight is about 4 lbs more.
The Redwolf action alone is @5lbs
Mounting a scope adds approximately 1.5 lbs.
So holding a scoped 12.5 lbs to 13.5 lb PRS rig at shoulder for forced FT lanes is mucho work, where as a scoped traditional Redwolf is 3 lbs easier.

Thoughts?

What is the reason for the grooves in the receiver bolt on a TX200. I've seen 3 on most, 2 on some and my new TX200HC has no grooves.
Thanks