Is it 3 years from the date of purchase for the original owner or is it three years from date of manufacture based on serial number? Thanks guys.

Just getting back into ARs after a long detour. My JSB pellets from 8-10 years are labeled $4.50 for 500 count. Now they are $20 I can buy CCI SV and Mini Mags for the price per rounds of many pellets-.07 cents and Aguila for .05/.055 cents a round. Hard to get my mind around a single lead pellet can cost as much as a descent .22lr round I know there is inflation, and COVID and supply line issues, and wars about the world, but 4X for a lead pellet. .22 rimfire match ammo has gone up of course but not nearly 4X!

Selling a brand new in box Caldwell DeadShot FieldPod, $60 OBO

Located in Anaheim Hills CA

first i had an egg poacher, got that one .. then a few nights later i get several chickens killed, not tore up or eaten, just dead layin around with a few feathers ripped out .. couldnt read it, i assumed it was likely a racoon but it was pretty clean for that, just some wasted birds layin around ... so i 'think' it was this guy, a male, maybe it was getting revenge for his gf getting toasted the other day? saw the chickens as a threat? no idea, we'll stake it out again in a couple days see what we get ..

We all remember the full auto bb gun game where you punch out the star to win...I assume. Am basically doing the same thing but using a HW30 in 177 to see how many shots to clear the red dot.
The target

I have been standing, offhand...admittedly with 1 elbow just touching the wall for a little extra stability. Iron sights,At 10m, this is my best today. 19 shots, anyone out there wanna beat it?

New member, pointed this direction from the Reddit forum after asking a question and am excited to participate in this community as well!

I was told this was the most welcoming and knowledgeable group of airgunners, and I hope that you can help with my question!

Is there any literature related to airguns that is faceted towards the technical/ engineering aspects of airgun construction that is regarded as the best on the subject?

Interested in the mechanics of all; multi-pump, single stroke pneumatic, break barrel and pre-charged pneumatic even if it is over several volumes/ authors.

Thank you for all of the knowledge you're willing to share,
Dallas

Ted’s Holdover JTS Airacuda .22.

Hello. After a couple of years not owning or shooting I'm thinking about shooting again or setting up something for hunting again. I started out shooting my Dad's Gamo CFX 177 in the backyard target shooting as we talked sometimes at 25 yard. I noticed how accurate it was with a cut spring. It was a tack driver with Crosman point at Walmart. My ex-wife bought me a couple Gamo Accu 177 and that's when I sort of got into it more. I gave the Xtra one to my Dad since he lived in the country. Life kind of went on and I moved away.

I've been tinkering with the idea of getting another Gamo Accu 177 (they don't sell brand new anymore) or an imported Gamo CFR Royal 177 (which GamoUSA said I could get calling them). I've also been thinking about a HW50s too. Nothing too powerful or heavy with hunting in mind. I am used to slinging a CFX (cut spring) or Accu 177 on 100 acres and that was my weapon of choice going for a walk in the woods.

I guess I would build one with the same thing in mind: survival, walking in the woods, hunting, and pest control.

Numerous brands and weights of new .22 pellets. Tell me what you are interested in purchasing and I am confident I can give you a lower price than buying from online vendors. I have been on this forum for many years and I accept paypal and ship fast, once payment is recieved. If you have any specific questions on the weight or style or number of pellets per tin for a certain brand, I will be happy to answer. I can only ship within the U.S. If you are interested in purchasing all of them , make me a fair offer. Thank you.

HADES DIABLOS ARE SOLD.

Looking for a good quality air gun book, with quality pictures, diagrams, technical data. If you need to make or find a piece that the parent company no longer makes it's a crap shoot on the size or even where the part might go. I have bought several older guns in the hopes of getting them to work but it appears most companies haven't bothered to keep any records or even pictures of what the gun looked like.

I'm seriously looking at the Seneca Dragonfly MK II in .177.

I'm mainly going to plink (target shoot) at a local range and that's the main reason for .177 caliber.

With that said, I have an over abundance of large grey squirrels around me, here in Central New York.

What maximum distance (assuming I'm an excellent shot) can the above rifle put a pellet into the chest cavity of a grey squirrel?

What type of pellet in .177 do you guys suggest for the task?

I haven't shot this fine Daystate in a year or more, and than never shot it much...four years old next month. Got it out yesterday and shot the clean bore until it stacked pellets at 30y..was way too windy to shoot any kind of accurate groups. Worked with it this am before the wind got too bad for some 45y groups...still light breeze...posted these with JSB 13.43's with no problem...I remembered it liked these pellets...800fps if memory serves me right...Was a fun quick am shoot...Sweet accurate gun...feels like a newly received gun, been so long since I worked with it..10 shot and 5 shot at 45yards.

I am faily new to this hobby. No powder burners here.
I have been playing around with a Crosman 2100 but my old eyes can't see through the iron sites anymore so I put a cheap scope on the rifle.
When I put the scope on the rifle, I had to move the scope 110 clicks to the left to get the crosshair to move 3 inches to hit on center.
I also had to move the scope 17 clicks up to move the crosshair up 2 inches to hit on center.
The MOA on the scope is 1/4 " =100 yards.
The scope is focused to shoot at 33 feet (11 yards) or about 10 meters.
Shoots spot on now.

My question is does this sound correct with the amount I had to move the scope (110 clicks) to get it to move 3 inches at 33 feet?

Thanks
Flagger

This barrel has never been a tack driver, BUT it's capable of some good groupings. Shall I do some crowning?



Suggestions are accepted.

I reIceived a new Caiman X in 22 caliber from Utah Air on Tuesday. I ordered it the previous Saturday. Utah spent a few days checking to be sure it held air and seemed to shoot OK. They included a target with 18 grain JSBs that I think was probably shot at 10 yards. This is my sixth PCP and it cost about as much as any 3 of the other 5. I wanted to try a nicer one and this is the one I picked. Price was part of the reason but it is also lighter than most at about 6.5 lbs and has a CZ barrel. It is unusually short. The barrel is over 500mm long but the gun is only about 28 inches long. So it's not much more than 6 inches longer than the barrel. The action is a little different than what I consider a typical PCP with a hammer that slides in a tube. The Caiman action has a hammer that pivots to strike the valve and it is more vertical than horizontal. The hammer spring adjustment is on the bottom of the rifle at the rear, not on the end of the airtube.

I was a little surprised that it needed as much tweaking as it has. It arrived shooting 18 grain JSBs about 935 fps. The test target said about 910 fps. Since I've been tuning it I've noticed the velocity can jump around a little like this. It happened to me today when I had the action out of the stock and put it back. Velocity jumped - also to 935 - and I had to turn down the hammer spring 1/4 turn to get it back to where I left it. I'm going to have to watch this. I believe the regulator is set to about 100 bar. That seems pretty low to me for around 875 fps on an 18 grain. It is using about 2 bar per shot so I could get as many as 100 shots per fill if I filled it to the full 300 bar it is rated to handle. I won't but even at 250 bar I should get about 75 shots. Changing the hammer spring is not hard and can easily be done without removing the stock. There is a lock screw for the hammer spring screw and it will move if you do not use it.

The most disappointing thing about the as received condition is the trigger pull. When I got it the pull was light but had a LOT of creep. It was easily worse than any of my 5 much less expensive guns. There are no instructions in the "manual" for adjusting this but once you get the stock off it's pretty easy. There are no instructions for getting the stock off either, however, nor for adjusting the hammer spring or even filling the magazine. Part of it is super easy there are two nice big allen headed screws on the bottom of the stock. But the safety pin also has to come out. This moved from the rear of the stock on the original Caiman to right above the trigger on the version I have. That is better. I did not figure out that there is a screw within the trigger guard area that controls the weight of a flat spring pushing on a ball bearing that rubs the safety pin. I tapped it out with a wood dowel and small hammer but I bent the pin in the process. I am sure this would have gone better if I had loosened that screw. I found it putting it back together. Once the stock is off there are two adjustments. The creep is controlled by the sear engagement that is just a lock screw and one allen headed screw on the bottom of the action. There is even a circular window where you can see the sear engagement. You want to adjust this screw to get rid of creep but please DO NOT try and make the trigger lighter with this setting. You want it to be creep free but ignore the pull weight. There is another adjustment for that. On the rod for the trigger is a ball point pen type spring with a locking collar on one end. Loosen the grub screw on the collar and you can get to a very low pull weight. I measured 4 ounces on my fish scale. I wasn't even at the minimum. I set it a bit higher but still under a pound. With adjustments this is my best trigger. It's disappointing it was set so poorly initially. It is clean and crisp and can be as light as you could reasonably want.

My stock did not fit my action real well either. The forward screw attaching the top part of the stock to the action could not be tightened when I got the gun, it would distort the stock. I #10 washer between the action and the stock solved that. The other issue was the cover over the manometer kept popping off. The top part of the stock was rubbing it a little. The stock is so thin it flexes some and when it did it popped that cover off. I used a drum sander on my drill press to relieve the area of contact and put a little epoxy on the manometer cover. Seems to be fixed.

You will also see that I made a cherry spacer to increase the length of pull. It came at a reasonable 14 inches or a little more but I like closer to 15. So I picked up a scrap piece of cherry off the floor of my shop and made a spacer. I shot the gun from the bench to test pellets without it but it is nice to have it fitting me now. I put the "Uncle Mike's" sling mount I use with my monopod rear rest into the spacer. Space if tight at the back of the stock.

A nice thing about the Caiman is it is reasonably quiet without an added moderator. It comes with several sections of moderator screwed together plus it ends with a 1/2 UNF fitting in the end. When it got to me with the hammer spring max'd out for the regulator setting it was noisy and I put on my Tanto. But when I got the hammer spring more reasonable adjusted it seems significantly quieter and I am just using the stock baffles. I may look into adding a section or two to the stock moderator.

It came with two magazines (which is nice because extras are apparently over $50) and they hold 10 rounds. This keeps them small and they do not bother me at all shooting from my left shoulder. I moved the cocking lever from the left to the right. That was not hard but you have to take off the upper part of the stock. There are instructions for that in the manual. I did not get the air evacuation tool I expected nor is there a plug on the fill port. I have a request into Utah about those parts. They do not seem expensive in the Air Maks web page so even if I have to buy them it is no big deal. Seems like they should be included.

I have not shot this enough to have a definitive position on accuracy but I think it will end up more accurate than my less expensive PCPs. I attached the first 30 yard challenge target I shot with it - the only one so far. Winds were 7-10 mph when I shot this. I've shot many better targets like this including a 200 and three 199s with my P35-22 but I've never shot one over 190 in wind until this one. I'm thus pretty sure I can shoot a 200 when I get less wind to shoot in. I shot at least 4 5 shot groups at 30 yards with H&N 18 grain pellets that were .2-.3 inches center to center when I was testing pellets. That was in windy conditions too. I still haven't even cleaned the barrel.

Shooting this is a little nicer than my less expensive guns but isn't really much different. When I am making an adjustment or something I can see it is better machined and is generally well designed and thought through. I am also unsure about velocity variation. I do not see a declining curve of velocity with tank pressure as has been reported but I do see a somewhat high ES. I was measuring velocity as I shot that 30 yard challenge target and I think the ES was about 42 fps. That's worse than my cheap guns by at least a factor of two except for the unregulated Prod. It has a huma regulator so that shouldn't be the issue. I need to watch some videos on the Katran to see what those owners report. It may be that the unique hammer arrangement of air maks guns contributes some to the ES. Or my gun may just be breaking in. I don't think it affects the accuracy at 30 yards but it would if I stretch it out so hopefully it improves. But long range accuracy is much less of a concern to me than accuracy within 50 yards and I don't see the ES as a likely issue within 50 yards.

I have an HW35 oldie and can't find any info from the SS # 3 E 5735 any one ? help!

I been down a so called "rabbit hole" due largely to this group and the need to carry on about weihrauch, and in particular the hw30. What seems like more posts about this rifle here than any other in the traditional/spring category. Watched numerous youtube reviews, read more on AoA, PA, etc. Came across 1 that caught my eye. 4 panel checkering with no grooves, the deluxe model with walnut stained beech wood, and the older stock design in right handed configuration.
I bought it 2nd hand advertised as purchased from AoA in 2000, and stored but never so much as cracked the barrel or shot even once. Came with original box, papers, and sight inserts all intact. Among the paper was a cert from AoA that it was tested for 20 rds. At 20 yards. Upon receiving the rifle today, I believe all of this.
Someone asked on here recently if getting a rifle tested means they will clean the barrel.
I would sat no, this is the first patch, and I needed a dozen more to see a clean 1.

Initial impressions were excellent. Fit, finish of components, weight/balance, quality of bluing, and feel of checkering in hand.

Things I liked. The sights, with interchangeable front inserts, and rear notch pattern are brilliant. Quite frankly I am surprised this isn't mentioned more often.

The trigger, nice feel of both stages right out of the box. I did adjust it about a half turn in to really get it feeling right for me.

The feel and placement of the safety are excellent, and intuitive after a few shots.

The cocking stroke and shot cycle are both easy and smooth (no twang)...much more than I had anticipated even after all the reading done here. Zero dieseling from the first shot I believe confirms the testing was done, and it was cleared out during the 20 shots at AoA.

The fps numbers not being inflated by the manufacturer was nice too. After testing 3 different pellets, and about 60 shots messing with sights, and trigger adjustment, I ran some chrony numbers. Excite 7.4g wadcutters for 5 shots between 673, and 681 for an overall spread of 8 fps. Fpe around 7.6.

Accuracy, once pellets selected (not pellet picky, but these were the best), and sights Dialed in. Offhand at 10 m.
Things that were less desirable.

Unlike most stuff I have where when the safety is engaged, you pull and hit a wall to realize you left it on. This with the safety on the trigger still travels, but does not have 2 stages, and doesn't fire. So the first time it happened I stayed on target as the trigger moved but nothing happened...not a huge deal.

The adjustments on the sights. Elevation is marked in a number sequence and easy to know which way to turn. Windage has no markings, unlike most rifles which indicate right or left with an arrow to inform which direction for correction on target. Again not big complaint.

There is a chance I paid too much given that it is 2nd hand. Given the condition, the stock styling, overall quality, and enjoyment of shooting I would pay it again.

I did not need this rifle, but am glad I have it. I shall leave credit or blame in your hands for the lack of money in my wallet today.

So went to the field yesterday and as you can imagine it was hot, dusty and dirty.

Once i got home and checked my gear i noticed the stock of my wildcat mk3 had these blemishes from the sweat and just dust.

So decided to coat the stock with bedliner paint as i had prev covered my kral puncher breaker stock with it and really liked how it performed.

Anyone else had this issue or have any thoughs on this?

So what happened to the original taming the bark thread? It had a ton of good stuff in there and just disappeared.
I just got a custom made shroud and suppressor from Neil Clague and I wanted to offer up an extra shroud for sale (.22). Why did he make me 2 you may ask? The reason is his attention to craftsmanship, quality and function while trying best to tame my helium monster. He made one screw on and the other slip on with set screws to hold it in place. Both are identical in looks and function other than the two set screws, which is the one I am going to try and sell for him. In other words, I want the buyer to paypal Neil the funds and I will ship the shroud to the buyer. Neil made two and only charged me for one. He would normaly charge $165 plus shipping so that is what I am trying to get for him. $165 but I will pay for the shipping. The shroud is a little longer than the barrel for optimum function, has a removeable end cap with 1/2-20 UNF threads for a suppressor. If nobody wants it at that price then make an offer, anything would be better than the $0 he has for it now. You would just need to verify the o.d. of your barrel, this one was made for a barrel diameter .478”

I haven't kept up with things since they last crash. I wondered if Mr Rowe and his crew were still intact or if they moved on to other maintenance systems?

Is it possible we have Conner back again?

Xin chào mọi người, tôi có một câu hỏi. Hiện tại mình đang sở hữu một chiếc Fx King 500mm, giờ mình muốn chơi đạn sên nên muốn nâng cấp lên nòng 600mm nên thắc mắc là mình cần mua những gì? để nâng cấp hoàn chỉnh hoặc mạnh mẽ hơn, cảm ơn

I am testing the waters here as I'm trying to downsize.

Fx Crown Mk1 with 910 Airguns titanium valve seat. Other than that it's totally stock.

Will come with:
380mm .22 cal STX barrel.
Buck Rail moderator
UTG 4-16 scope with side wheel parallax

Set to:
805fps with JSB 18g for around 80 shots or so.
Currently shooting .217 H&N HP 23g slugs but haven't got the chronic data for it. You can research my other postings I have used this out to 116y successfully for my pesting permission. No issues at all and will come in FX Wildcat case.

PayPal or Zelle and I'm not willing to take low blows for this set up so please be respectful. Price does not include shipping!

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Expanding my earlier question concerning HW to Beeman models. Is there a site or thread that tells the characteristics of each model? What are the velocities and typical uses? This is not expressed well. But maybe there is a site/book that can be referenced? Thanks for the response in my earlier thread. Thought asking details as barrel length, calibers, cocking methods, steel spring or gas spring ..... Thanks in advance. Be Well Board Members, Bandito.