I am a looking at a PCP to use in Field target. Both open and hunter. I have been shooting spring guns for many years and have a TX200 and Diana 48 for field target in the springer classes.

I am just starting to look at building a dream gun and scope combination. I can use all the help and opinions anyone wants to offer. I am concerned I am focusing on things that don’t matter and ignoring things that do.

First off I will get a compressor. Should I get a hand pump or a bottle ? Or both for field use.

Next I do all my own maintenance and tuning. To me that is the fun. Learning new things and the satisfaction of making something work for me is something I place value in. I’m a mechanic/ machinist and dable in watchmaking. I know when I can’t do something.

I really like Air Arms products but I have looked at other brands.

I have gone around and around with this for months if not years. But now I have the money to do something. So it’s getting serious. Fortunately everything is out of stock everywhere so I can wait. And take time.

I am in Iowa and the wind is my concern. I want a 20 ft lb gun to buck wind with slow moving heavier pellets.

First I looked at the HFT 500. I like it because it has an adjustable cheek piece. I like the option of a hamster and it is single shot competition rifle with a great reputation. Down side is 12 ft lb.

Same goes for the XTi-50. It’s a 12 ft. lb gun.

I looked at the S510 and the magazine loads from the left side. That interferes with the side wheel. So I am looking at the S500 xs extra.

But then I started to look at the HW 100. I can get that with a cheek riser and it has a thumb hole stock option that I kinda like.
Plus it loads single shot or magazine from the right side.

From what I read the HW100 is easy to work on and tune.

Is the HW100 trigger like the rekord in the hw97?

I don’t know how important a hamster is . Won’t use it for hunter and I have never used one in open.

My biggest question is how the two power levels deal with wind at longer range.

The real choice is the HW100 vs Air arms s500 I think. Both are beautiful. Don’t want a carbine . I don’t know why.

Scope is probably a Sightron SIII FT 10-50X60 With a second focal plane. Pretty set on that but not totally.

Just got a Brocock Atomic XR in the 'We the Plinkers' package from AOA. Really like the gun, but it came w/ an extended cocking handle and it hits the knuckle on my index finger as I'm gripping the gun. Anybody know of custom cocking handles for the Atomic?

Like the add says the rattler 357 with ATN 4K Pro 3x12 scope and everything you see except for bipod. K&L buthook, b&t accushot monopod look these prices up! The rattler is just over two months old and I’m only selling it because every time I fire it my girlfriend screams lol. I hate going to the range to shoot The reg is set exactly where the factory sets them at 150bar and it stays there. This gun has always held air indefinitely no issues ever. $2500.00 obo for everything and I’ll meet you halfway on shipping anywhere in the conus United States. PayPal F&F. Any questions or for more pictures text me 541-701-5114 Dan. Thanks for looking and have a great day!

Dreamline Classic .177 in Saber Tactical stock; Rowan single shot tray. Gun is 6 months old, only about 500 pelllets through it, got it from Utah Airguns. I've reached out a few times to them, crickets, no reply. POI shifts after every +- 30 shots, up to about an inch, left, right, up, down, basically all around the clock:
- Checked action screws, all tight
-Barrel feels tight in action
-Brand new Hawke scope, rings tight
-Velocity constant 898-903fps from 220bar down to 150bar; 10.3gr Premiers
-Removed barrel band, issue still there
-Removed material above the picatinny rail on fore end so that rail doesn't touch air tube, issue still there

Any ideas? POI shifts are my pet hate, if I can't get this thing to shoot consistentlly it'll be the end of the FX chapter for me.

Coming from HPA airsoft. A typical gun is 110db. I notice that pcp guns is about the same. Why is most 3d printed moderator has printed baffles and not some sort of foam? I changed from printed baffling to foam in my HPA gun and went from 100db to 64. I noticed lot of videos pcp is dropping only in the 70s. What makes the pcp different,is it the pressure difference?

So I just got this GX CS2 Mini and plugged it into my new Avenger Bullpup, it got up to 3,000 PSI and burst a disk, then kept bursting them, even two at a time, so it's going straight back to Bezos. Well, at least I can test this bullpup to some degree for now.

Like I said, this is a mini-review for a mini hunk of junk. Darn, I'm getting sick of these compressors failing.

Hey guys. My new M4 was barely cocking and then about 20 shot in it stopped cocking all together. How would I fix that? Settings are as it came out of the box. Pictured below. Shooting 18.1 at 890 FPS. Not great groups at 38 yards with JSB and FX. Was about to try AEA but won't cock now. (also see mystery screw I found on Patio a few posts down).

Looking to buy one of the older KalibrGun Mini Carbines. Would prefer .25 caliber but .22 will also work. Looking for a well taken care of gun in good working order with no leaks but will consider all offers.

Thanks

Mike

https://www.iguana-solutions.com/iguanasniperchallenge I will have the Redwolf at the Iquana Sniper Challange in Holloywood Florida. Go to Jessicas Website to learn more about it and location.

Like new condition. Shot only a few times. Been a safe queen for 6 months. No issues to report. Comes with charger, Battery and single shot tray. It has the GC1 board. Asking $1300 shipped and insured to 48 conus. Pm me for any questions. No Trades.

Hi All, relisting due to buyer wanting international shipping.

Beautiful .22 walnut Redwolf HP. Shoots the Redesigns on medium at 970 and is incredibly accurate…..

Gun has the latest electronics and comes with 2 magazines, single shot tray, 700cc bottle, 2 batteries and charger. I do have the Daystate programmer for an additional 125.00 if the buyer chooses. Everything works as it should and see no blemishes on the stock or finish.

1500 and will split shipping

Note-Scope, rings, bottle clamp, 0dB, Atlas bipod not included.

End of an era Crosman Custom Shop Closed.

I'm trying to find the best slug for my gun. I want to say that my gun is first and foremost a pellet shooter. I tuned my gun (Taipan Veteran Long .22 LW barrel) specifically as a suburban backyard varmint rifle to shoot the 15.89gr Hades at 31 FPE. Most of my shots are well within 40 meters. I'm trying to double duty the rifle to shoot slugs because I want to start practicing shooting targets at longer distances and because it's just nice to know that my gun will shoot beyond 75 meters if I ever need to.

Having said all that, I bought some NSA 17.5gr samplers 3 years back; 0.2155, 0.216, and 0.2165. I just recently tested them a few nights ago.

Hades 15.89gr - Shooting at 31.85 FPE
NSA 17.5gr 0.2155" - Shot at 29.55 FPE. This is the lowest FPE of all the projectiles that I've tried suggesting that the slug is too small for the barrel causing a lot of air to escape. Grouping was not good at all at 31 meters.
NSA 17.5gr 0.216" - Grouping was a bit worse than the previous slug but it was shooting at 30.25 FPE which tells me that it's a better fit.
NSA 17.5gr 0.2165" - This is the best of the slugs I've tried. It was sub MOA at 28 meters. 0.265" center-to-center. I know it's a short distance but it gives me something that I can test at further distances when I get the chance. This also shot the closest to the Hades' FPE at 31.27 FPE. This tells me that the slug is sealing well against the barrel without much drag.

Because of my findings, I ordered 900 rounds of the 17.5gr 0.2165". I measured the unfired slug and with my calipers. My caliper is only precise down to 0.001" but it looks to me that it's closer to the 0.217" mark than the 0.216". Also, the dish at the bottom of the slug seems to cause it to flare outwards a bit. I measured the diameter at the bottom and it's just a tiny smidge below 0.218".

Now, I'm not doing all these measurements to compare to what the spec sheet says. I'm trying to measure as precisely as I can (without having to buying a micrometer) so that I can compare that to my barrel's dimensions.

I recovered a Hades pellet shot through water and measured it. According to that, the grooves of my barrel is a smidge over 0.216". This was confirmed with measurements from a recovered NSA slug having the exact same measurement. The Hades' skirt started out at 0.226" and the NSA started out at 0.218" at their widest, so I am 100% sure that with the 0.216" measurements after being shot, they are touching the grooves in the barrel at the choke.

Again, I know that I'm only using a vernier caliper but I have measured, re-measured, and measured some more and reading with magnification, I am quite confident of my measurements as best as my calipers will offer.

All I said above so I can ask if you think it would be worth it to try the NSA 17.5gr 0.217 caliber slugs. The NSA 0.2165 is already shooting well in my gun and I don't know if I should keep chasing that rabbit down the hole. One thing though, some of the comments from experts that I've read say that it's recommended that the slug is at the maximum only be 0.001" over the size of the barrel's grooves. @Motorhead said in one of his posts that it's actually better that the slug doesn't touch the barrel's grooves. He said that a slug that touches the barrel's grooves will actually cause more drag (FPE loss) and foul the barrel quicker. This is with the caveat that the barrel's lands have a firm hold on the projectile. My barrel's bore measurement seems to be at 0.210" so I think I'm covered in that regard.

I'm thinking that even though the 0.217 slugs shoot well in my gun, I might still prefer to use the 0.2165 regularly because of the barrel fouling issue.

Sorry for my long ramblings but I just want to be as precise as I could and because I'm also making this post as a note to my future self.

The Delta is in like new condition with an extended trigger guard that is very stiff for a tripod,also excellent for bipod mounting and protecting the bottle. One Leaf NV400 has great video day and night mode, all rechargeable and has lrf with ballistics calculator. Text or message for any additional information or offers. 8592304410
PP friends or Postal MO. Scope is included and bipod is not included.

Hello everyone. First post but not new to air rifles. I've owned a Daystate Huntsman Classic since new (over 10 years). It's in need of a full service for new o-rings as that is long overdue.

Do we have persons here that you would recommend for a service and tune?

Thanks in advance,

Mark in Missouri

Does the Pro X use choke screws similar to the H5A for lower power levels (e.g. 24 J or 16 J) or is power reduction done through the belleville washers in the regulator only?

I note that the H5A uses a combination of washers in the reg and choke screws to reduce the power level. I can't find anything in the Pro X parts list or parts diagram that references choke screws?

Anyone know for sure?

Hi everyone

I'm thinking about a more compact addition to my AGT Uragan 2 - .22 - 600 mm. I have been looking very much at the Panthera Hunter Compact in .22. It is going to be used indoors and outdoors for pest control at relative short distances. I'm setting up the Uragan for slugs for distance. I'm lefthanded so the Wildcat doesn't work for me with the magazine sticking out. Who has some experience with the FX Panthera Hunter Compact in .22 ??

Thomas

I've been messing around with some different slug designs for a bit now and figured I'd share and ask for some help.

Here's my latest attempt at making a .51 mold that shoots straight.





This is a 300gr .510 design that represents the culmination of my (novice level) understanding of what makes a decent air gun slug. I made it specifically for my challenger elite 51, so one of the main requirements is that it fit in the magazine. I just made these and haven't tested them yet, but this is a V2 of a previous design that did reasonably well. Hoping this is an improvement.

I've been on a mission to find a decent mold for my 51, and boy has that let me down a rabbit hole. I did the "buy and try" method with a bunch of 357 molds... that got expensive... so instead of spending a fortune on noe and accurate molds it kinda made more sense to make my own molds from scratch. In the pics above is my first completely-from-scratch mold, aside from the lee 2cav handle.

I started making molds from the lee 2 cavity blanks. Having used a bunch of them I quickly learned their shortcomings. One of my biggest gripes about them is the sprue plate. They have a tendency to lift up on the cavity farthest from the screw causing one slug to be longer. Doesn't seem to be a problem on molds that have a second screw to hold down the sprue plate, so I integrated that concept. I also discovered that having a very flat and smoothly machined sprue plate will help the mold operate smoothly, with less lubrication and less galling of the aluminum. Another gripe about the lee 2cav blanks is that they are not, flat, square, true, plumb, centered, even or consistent. All the things that would help make a precise mold... they don't have it. This made machining a pain... so just another reason to make em from scratch.

As far as the shape of the projectile... I have very few answers and many, many questions. Some of the first slugs I made were very simple shapes. Straight sides with a modestly rounded nose. These shot horribly. Maybe even keyholing, which was quite confusing. I only fired them a few times... just enough to know that they were wild then moved on. Here's an example of that.



I started making some attempts at a slug with higher BC than a typical hollow point or wadcutter. Simple G1 style, tangent ogive, and some simple grooves on the OD. I've had some interesting results that raise a lot of questions. Here's an example that shot wildly.



I had high hopes for that one... it looked cool at least! Here's a couple that shot pretty well.



The two above... both molds had some chatter so I endes up remaking them with a few tweaks. Results are pretty decent... need more testing time at the bench.

‐‐---------

That's some of what I've done so far... too tired to write more... will continue soon.

Also, I am actively seeking any books, docs or comments that would help design better slugs. Please let me know!

M4 over the m3 not much of an upgrade but the upgrades are nice to have. I'm sure m3 owners wouldn't sell it to upgrade to the m4. So this question is for non impact owners. If you don't have an impact and want one. Which one to buy? The m3 or m4? I remember when the m3 came out every fx fan Boyz (Ted, Matt, South Africa Boyz, Utah airgun, shooter1721, and folks on here, etc) were so hype and bragging about the dual reg and saying having dual reg is a must. Then came the m4 and they got rid of that. Like what's up. If the hypes of the m3 was about the dual reg why get rid of it.

I have a Reximex Meta in .177. Getting rid of my .177 lot. Gun shots great without issues. The Reg is pre set at 140 and it shoots slugs pretty well! 10 grain JSB slugs at 935 FPS and 13.4 grain FX pellets at 880. This gun was my favorite out of the three being sold.
Comes with two mags and everything else from factory.
Does not come with scope or bipod.
Thanks for looking!!















View attachment Reximex-Meta177-10-grain-Knockout.pdf

View attachment Reximex-Meta177-13-4-Gr-FX.pdf

View attachment Reximex-Meta177JTS-10-4-1.pdf

Any one used the donnyfl sumo on the Challenger pro 30 long barrel. I tried looking it up but didn't see anything

Nikko Diamond 10-50x-60 is a mk1, made in Japan, mildot reticle, comes with original box and paperwork, Sunshade, Rowan engineering oversized elevation turret, Rowan pointer, custom Delrin elevation turret, original elevation turret, OEM aluminum lens caps, OEM sidewheel with a custom Delrin sidewheel extension.

BSA Platinum 10-50x-60 is the same scope with a target dot reticle. Also high quality Japanese manufacturing and parts are interchangeable. Turrets, sidewheel, lens caps etc... fit both scopes.

Both show signs of use, with marks, fading, and a few stickers. Both function properly. Lenses look excellent. Selling cheap to reduce inventory. Both scopes and accessories $495 + shipping.

Edit: image below is 55yds at 40X magnification.

So with my recent purchase of an acreage and a ridiculous amount of rabbits inhabiting the place it has me wanting a new pcp. While I love my epic two 550mm rifle, it was purchased and setup for long range paper target killing and is quite cumbersome to walk my property with and eliminate rabbits. The Leishy 9mm checks all the boxes and although .35 is a bit excessive for pesting its still what I’m leaning towards. I’d like like to hear feedback from other owners as to reliability, likes and dislikes with regard to the high price tag, has it been worth it for you? Thanks

Finally got the m3 500 .177 tuned to shoot the zans 13gr at 935ish. Got a whopping 86 iguanas between 2 golf course! Some iguanas were unrecovered but it totaled out to 112 pounds. The contained weighs about 8.2lbs on it's own.

I also went night hunting for iguanas and caught 19

Hey people i just wanted to throw out there,now i dont shoot in sub 12fpe but there is a guy i have bin watching on youtube call sub12 airgunner i dont care what gun it is and he gets them all he machines new parts makes the gun better and proves it with shot counts very fun to watch and you learn diffrent stuff give it a shot i do some crazy things with pcps but this makes me go wow maybe i am not good as i thought lol