I posted this question in response to a few people talking about the first shot out of a cold barrel, seeming to imply that the POI would shift as the barrel warmed up. Or am I missing the point? (I often do......)

"
Kinda new to all of this, but I do have a question. Considering that we are shooting compressed air from a storage tank, isn't the barrel always cold? If anything, according to the laws of physics, the air will get hotter when it's compressed into the bottle, and cool down over time until it approaches ambient. When it is released from the bottle, it will be cooler. Or so I believe.

A word of caution: I still believe in the Easter Bunny and the Great Pumpkin......

Geneeus

What is the quietest silencer you have and on what gun?

Up for sale is a zx10Wall Vulcan 3 500mm in 25 cal. Derrick set this rifle up for the 25 grain pellets going right at about 890 FPS. You will get the rifle, 2 magazines, and all the other items that come with the Vulcan rifles. The scope is not included.

The targets are 5 rounds at 50 yards with a 25 cal pellet for reference.

Shipped $1,000.00 PayPal F&F or you can add the fees.

No trades.

Is it just me or does anyone notice lack of airgun videos on YouTube by the big names the in the industry. Haven’t seen a video from 68 whiskey or Ted in a long time. I’m sure there are more but these are the ones I noticed. Or like ppl that were big on social media are not anymore.

I have so many funny, (good) memories of owning a gunshop, trading guns and going to gunshows, and I imagine everyone else does too, so I thought I'd start a thread of funny stories. Some may also be not so funny.

Do you all remember when the Ruger Charger came out? It was a sort of a pistol, but pretty large, and definitely shot form a rest. Well, a guy I know, who has the self control of a 4 year old, had to have one, and I mean NOW! He scoured every gun shop around, but everyone would have had to order one, and golly, that could take 3 or 4 days!! Sooooo, the adventure begins:

First he bought a black 10/22 as a donor, and used the action for his "build". Next comes a laminated 10/22 stock bought from a gunshow, and to top it off, a stainless Midway heavy target barrel, bought from a friend. The first thing to do is cut the stock down and make a pistol-ish grip out of it, Now, my ole friend was not gifted with woodworking skills, poor guy, but he perservered. When he cut the forearm down and hacked off the butt stock, it was ready to be used as kindling. There are no words to describe it. I reckon it to the bank robber who cuts down the stock of a shotgun to make it more concealable, and uses a rough cut file to fashion a grip, and that's being complimentary.

With the stock finished, it's time to prepare the barrel. Now a full length Midway stainless heavy barrel is a thing of beauty with it's spiral outer finish it looks as good as it shoots. But it's much too long for a pistol, not to mention heavy, so it's time to cut it down. These are bull barrels roughly 1" at the muzzle and even thicker as it goes back toward the action. Out comes... wait for it...the hacksaw!. Now these are IIRC 20" barrels and I think the legal limit to cut them back was 16", but I'm not sure of the measurements, but he cut it to the legal limit. If anything his metal working skills are only exceeded in mediocrity by his woodworking skills. The muzzle and crown were horrendous. The barrel looked like it was cut with a chainsaw, and filing and sanding didn't seem to improve either the looks, or the function I would guess.

It's time to assemble the "pistol" and make final tweaks. The black action and trigger did not look good to him with the stainless barrel, so out comes the silver roof paint. He paints the action, trigger assy, and a weaver rail scope mount. You guessed it, he can't paint either. It was full of runs, (have you ever used silver roof paint, it's like water), and not being stirred properly, the finished parts had a sort of marbled look. It was a beaut! Now the action and barrel are the same color, sort of, the stock needs paint. He always had a thing for blue rifles, as he used to have a Marlin 2000 22 target rifle which had a blue stock, and he called it his "Smerf" rifle, so naturally the grip had to be painted blue. It looked much like the action when painted. If beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I guess it was a masterpiece. One final thing to do, it had to have open sights, ... don't ask me?

Taking a Truglow tube sight apart he got the orange tube out of the sight, and using a piece of metal he drilled a hole and glued the tube straight up in it and glued it to the front of the barrel, roughly 3/4" high. Next he removed the rear sight from a Heritage Rough Rider 22 pistol and glued it to the action, choosing, at this point, not to use the beautiful scope mount he had made.

Now for the coup de gras, it's time to bed the action in the grip....I honestly never knew Acraglass gel could run like that. I also didn't know it took a whole package to bed a pistol, maybe a cannon, whatever! Surprisingly his glue skill is far worse that either his metal or woodworking skill, if that's possible. One thing for sure, it'd be no trick to trace this gun back to him with all the Acraglass fingerprints on it!

Assembled and finished, this is the single worst "pistol" I have ever seen, there are no words to describe this monstrosity. It looked like a first grader made it in crafting class. Well, first graders have, generally, much more skill than this. I mean this thing needed to go straight into the trash, it looked that bad!

He was so proud of it, and now he had his Smerf Charger!

Now my pal is one of those inveterate traders, and moves things fairly quickly. So after a few months of enjoying his Smerf Charger, we were at a gunshow and he was looking at one of the, then new, short mag rifles, and the dealer [foolishly] asked if he had anytihng to trade? Silly me, I wasn't even thinking, when he went to his truck to see what he had with him. I continued looking around, totally unaware what was about to happen. When I saw the crowd forming from across the gun show, I just had to see what all the fuss was about. When I got close enought to see him holding the Smerf Charger out at arms length in the dealer's face, with an ear to ear proud grin on his face, I could have died. At which point, the dealer uttered the exact words that were running through my mind,.. "you're kidding, right"? The laughter that ensued, only made the situation go from bad to worse. When the dealer laughed, I think that was the last straw, and I knew, at that point, that my pal, all 6.4" 270 # of him, could lose his temper and end up in big trouble if we didn't leave NOW!

The ride home was a rant on dealers and how they rip people off on their guns, and he coudn't imagine the guy wouldn't trade for his prized Smerf gun! I haven't seen the Smerf Charger in several years, and I have no idea of it's whereabouts.

................................have i told you the one about my friend buddying up to a local doctor and volunteering to glass bed his new Cooper Custom Classic rifle?
................................or that you can completely lock up an Anschutz 2001 airgun by trying to acraglass it into it's stock?

Still breaking it in and trying to see which pellets it likes best. So far my best group has been with 18.1 JTS. The picture is an 11 round group at about 60 yards. I love the size of it. It will definitely make a great gun to walk around on the farm with. Unfortunately it looks like the cold is getting ready to set in for awhile. I've got a window picked out to try shooting out of if the wife allows it.

How do I find the right pellets for my new Remington sabre .117. I’m looking for range and accuracy for target practice. Currently using RWS Superdome 8.3gr (what the shop guy recommended me). Is there any place that will sell you a pack of 20-40 pellets per tin just to test them instead of buying a hole tin?

There is a story about a guy with a .30 Vulcan that made the news... Don't want to get into specifics because the post will be deleted (even though it is air gun related). Let's be honest...it was just a matter of time.

Hi.
Just got my inlet, probe and shp, so I could transformer my .177 -> .25.

Was a little dissapointed that the inlet came without the 2 orings it needed but I had some spare inlets from m3 so that worked out.

I tought I could but a manometer in the bottom of the plenum instead of the angled bracket, but that was not possible to I have still no idea of my plenum preassure. But what would be a ok place to start out 100-110bar?

My m3 had 90bar and shot 910 with king heavy, but it has bigger plenum and 100mm longer barrel.

I think I have to stay with pellets to get highest possible shotcount with this 600mm air cylinder. Im going to make it 700mm as soon as I find a place that sells the longer tube (I have liner and liner housing from 700mm m3)

Edit: with the same settings i used on .177 13gr KO @ 940fps i now only have around 600fps with bigger plenum 33gr K.heavy

Hi there forum members,
My first posting in this asylum
Recently bought a new Blitz BP and ordered a low budget Vitoptics 1-6x24 LOVP
Today i did a small paintjob on the plastics, now gunmetal-grey, later to change in bronze.
first cleaned and scraped al sharp edges of the plastic parts, plastic primer and motip grey spraycans used.
It appeared to me that the tapered screws Hatsan used in the shoulderpiece plasic, were crooked and worn by overtightening, so
i still have to change that. Anyway, put it together and looks fine to me.

A 357 Slayer for parts or refurbish. Does not include the Valve, Moderator, butt stock, upper rail.
The front weaver rail was removed but the trigger gaurd and lower rail still attach and function.
The valve bore is smooth and clean no burs or marks, the slayer holds air as seen in the pic when a valve is installed. It also includes second end cap moving air gauge and foster fill to the front of the air rifle. Hammer and sear linkage, probe are intact and and function perfect. You could install a valve, moderator and it is ready to shoot. It was used to test some valve variations but done with it now. 550.00

Rookie Questions...

I'm fairly new to PCP and airguns - I am trying to get a handle on the tuning process and understand some parts but am struggling with others.

I am about 2000 rounds into learning and have been keeping the distance at 50M

I purchased an Air Venturi Avenge-x in 25 cal (bottle and classic synthetic stock)


I have opened up the barrel port to match the area to the barrel bore - oval opening now - increased speed for same settings but no other significant impact - just as consistent as when it was a 4mm round port. Get a few more shots per fill for same FPS

Checking that there weren't any burs left from milling the port, I chambered some pellets and pushed them back out the breach to look for scrapes or scars - there were none visible.


What I did see was that the contact area and the depth of engagement with the rifling was very different depending on the projectile.

I then quickly seated most of the ones I have been trying to see how each looked - summary in the photo below.

The deepest markings (and stiffest to load) is the H&N Slug HP Heavy while the Slug HP MK II in 0.249 barely marked at all.

Is this amount of variation typical?

For my gun, the Zan 30 grain slugs never group all that well.
The Barracuda Hunter Extremes are completely wild.
The Wildman is only moderate.
The HP II Mk II's and the JSB Exact King Heavy will shoot same hole at 50M - even with the same tune for both -
The Zan Slug HP in 26.5 grain works at this tune as well - just flys a lot faster.

I can tune all of these to fly at very tight speeds - typically +/- 1 FPS but am struggling to find the most accurate speeds for each (if even possible)

I would like to find a tune that delivers 60+ ft lbs and is accurate at 100M so I was favoring slugs - don't know if that is good thinking or not but they do fly flatter and with less wind drift.

My (rookie) understanding is that the BC will max out sub sonic somewhere in the 925-975 FPS range so I was targeting those speeds but my groups seem a bit larger over 900 FPS.

These are what is working -

ZAN Slug HP 26.5 @ 175 Bar and 950 FPS - tight groups .05 STD on FPS
HN Slug HP II Mk II 30 @ 200 bar and 940 FPS - tight groups and 0.9 STD on FPS
HN Slug HP II Mk II 34 @ 175 bar and 852 FPS - tight groups and 1.0 STD on FPS
JSB Exact King Heavy MK II 33.95 @ 175 bar and 860 FPS - tight groups and 0.6 STD on FPS

Will some projectiles just never like a specific gun?
Is there a sweet speed for each and you just have to find it? ( just getting the FPS consistent clearly isn't the whole answer)
How significant is the "advantage" of a slug over a pellet at 100M? Some manufacturer information suggests maximum ranges and tops out most pellets at 50 yards.

Any advice will be appreciated.

Mark

Really nice fx panthera.. like new.. completely redone by high pressure pneumatics.. asking $1200
PayPal friends and family

I've parked 50 Field targets in my back yard.... each has a home consisting of 1/2 of a pickle barrel. The barrels catch "sound" and "lead splatter" for easy cleanup and they also provide my otherwise homeless targets a respite from the elements.

Side note: after one year, no hornets or other creatures have made a home in the barrels - apparently the smell / acid / vinegar is not something they like.

I intentionally put really small KZ's or one size smaller than legal out at the distances for practice purposes.... i figure... aim small miss small.
The yard is set up with a West Course and a West North West Course so it can accommodate 2 shooters safely under my covered area...

I'm looking at .30 PCPs to do some long range plinking. I've played with powder burners in the past. Looking to play around 200+ yards. The top of my list is currently the RAW HM1000x, but I'm open to suggestions.

Hi, I’ve just bought my first gun “sabre .117”I watched a tutorial for safe gun handling and had a question. When loading it why do I need to keep my hand on the barrel after the click of the spring? There is no more tension so couldn’t I remove my hand from the barren and use it to load the pellet??

Thanks

The quest to fill out the personnal airgun collection never ends... I've given myself a stipulation that I will not buy a full size full power airgun until I am able to buy one off the classifieds. Nothing wrong with that, gets me talking to like minded individuals in the community! With all that said I'm allowing myself to fill out a spot in my arsenal for 50 yards and in. This airgun should be fairly compact, and price isn't a super super large concern, however, the better the price the happier I'd be lol.
But as follows would be my list of criteria:
1. Compact form factor
2. Maximum accurate range should be at least 50 yards(The main distance in my backyard.)
3. Tuneable? This isn't absolutely necessary but would be nice because I like to tinker with things.

With that in mind, do any of you fine folks have recommendations? Possible testimonials?? Any info would be greatly appreciated and a possible follow-up post might be made with what I end up going with if anyone would be interested! Thanks in advance!
-Jared H.

Which valve do you like to use when filling carbon fibre cylinders?
Is it one piece or assembled?
Which one is more durable?

Welcome to discuss!

So for all you .177 hunters where is your go to shot placement at? What's your rig of choice? Speed's and ammo? Distances you feel most comfortable shooting?


I personally love the redwolf , dreamline classic, impact! Dreamline classic is my all time favorite! My range is from 10-85 yards given the wind condition permit it! I know .22 would be the easiest thing for me in hunting! I have a Christensen arms .22 rimfire and Silencerco sparrow on the end that I use sometimes!

Just received my new pile driver .50 cal. Cocked it and air it up, went to shoot it and it barely makes a sound. 2nd shot got louder. By the 8th shot it looks to be only shooting 300 fps. And after the 8th shot it only used 75 bar of air, it should have been empty. I also noticed while holding the gun and tip it front to back you can hear what sounds like the hammer sliding back and forth. Didn’t know if this was normal or not. Hopefully some other hatsan owners can chime in. Sounds to me like the hammer isn’t hitting the valve hard enough to open it.

Anyone know where to hunt starlings. I found some public areas in Illinois that allow Airgun hunting, But I just dont know which ones would be good for starlings. I would love to start a starlings specific group/club. Together we could probably get some areas to go. Thank yo.

Traded this with Jacespace about two months ago. It ended up needing a new reg when I received it. Kelly at Kraz Kool replaced it and went through the gun. This gun as the 2018 LW barrel. It is now working flawlessly. 1,000 + shipping considering trades .177, .22

So recently I installed the Plenum kit, and got a new threaded barrel from the mighty @Firewalker . And a buckrail moderator, sometimes the base one and seeing which works better (I have damages hearing so either or sounds the same to me)

Gun looks great! Quiet too, the mechanical hammer is louder than the shot itself.

But I’ve noticed as I’ve been trying to use my airgun as of late since then, it seems like the power is not always there?

For example I recently got a winchester AO 2-7x32 airgun scope and some vortex high, hunter scope rings.

When zeroing at about 30ish yards my shot are almost always incredibly low. Using an Optima 4x-32 on Bushnell Banner rings, Simmons 3.5-12 on Vortex Pro rings, and the Winchester 2-7x32 on Vortex High hunter rings, it seems I almost always run out of elevation.

I currently am removing the winchester and seriously judging my ability to zero my scopes. I was able to zero my powder burners no problem but I cannot for the life of me get my airgun scopes zeroed and 5 inches short of center.

On the rare occasion I once had my Umarex Notos zeroed, it would easily hit 1-2 inch groups based on how well I tried. Even with it not zeroed it still hits great groups, sometimes within the same hole. The hammer is at max power and I currently use JB Jumbo 18gr, CPHP 14 gr, JB jumbo 15gr. All very similar groupings and I still run out of zero.


When using my Vortex Venom or Viper micro red dots however, I can zero it easily and with no trouble.

I am currently trying using electrician’s friction tape as shims for the scopes incase if they are moving about, or Im tightening wrong (I always go from front to back and alternating front right/left to rear right/left. So they are evenly pulling down)

My Daystate Revere has been “ upgraded” by me with a huma regulator. I just received the proper connector for gauge on receiver from the UK. So the existing plug is glued into stock. Before I F it up trying to remove are there any ideas from the knowledgeable ones?
thanks,
Mike

What’s everyone been working on this winter? I get bored and tinker with a bunch of random hobbies. I have a P-Rod back on the bench now. I experimented with the usual B-Staley, HS, TP, etc. Just added a Hill lightweight hammer. Only shot a few strings, but it’s surprisingly pretty consistent.
Gun shoots great but I’m sure I’ll get bored and add a reg. Only so much you can do with a P-Rod.If I’m ever happy with tune, I got this pretty wood stock for it haha. I’m having fun and learning. That’s all that matters.
Anyways enough rambling


What’s everyone got on the bench? Any recent projects? Let’s see em

Post some pictures in the comments below.



Happy New Year,
Rob