Here is a as new Weihrauch HW35E in 22 caliber. I fired less than 100 pellets through it. It shoots 14.3 CPHP in the high 600’s fps. I have a left hand HW95 Tyrolean in 22 caliber that shoots within 10 fps difference. So that’s what I shoot. It just doesn’t get used. Original box, paperwork, and sight inserts. It’s a couple years old now and before the gold laser print on the receiver. Extra nice Walnut to. $425 plus $35 shipping east of Mississippi. More for West. Continental U.S Only.

LH MORINI CM 162EI COMPETITION PISTOL.

Excellently maintained MORINI pistol. .177 with electronic trigger. Lothar Walther barrel with walnut medium grips. Once charged to 3,000 psi, this regulated pistol boasts 200 guaranteed shots. This is a left handed model. The package includes the rigid Morini case with blood red plush lining, one red and one blue air cylinders with analog gauges, the charging probe & adapter, tool kit, and all the original documentation including pertinent downloads for the pistol.

$1150 shipped.
PaPal FF or please add 4%

Selling a Theoben Rapid MFR .22cal. Just been resealed and Regulator rebuilt. Setup to shoot Jsb 16gr. @720fps for 42 shots. Mouse fart quiet with AZ shroud sys. AZ quick bottle fill sys. Included is one magazine, 2 bottles, fill adapter. The stock does have some pressure dents but nothing major, has sling studs installed. O.A.L. 39"
Selling because own 3 Rapids and thinning herd.
Asking $775 shipped. Accept PayPal friends and family or USPS m.o.
No trades at this time.
Scope & Rings are not included in sale price unless we work something out.

I can start with that I use the king heavy 33.95gr as a referanse since those shoot 1 hole groups at 50m @910fps.

I have tried 28gr, 33gr, 35gr and 37gr from zan in speeds 950 up to 1020 and none of them group as the pellets does at 50m.
I have also tried nsa 43.5gr from 950 to 1000fps and its no Luck there either.

I have 700mm heavy liner tension barrel with carbon sleave.

I hope to get my KO mk2 today so I can try them, my supplier have HN slugs and wildman too but they are super expensive and I have not had any Luck with them in my crown mk2 earlier so I have not orderd them yet.

Would realy like to shoot slugs, but as it is now I get a hell of a lot of shots out of my 480 bottle with 2nd reg at 90bar xD

For sale is this new in box, never mounted SWFA SS scope, I bought this last year for a build that never happened. Features include side focus from 6 yards to infinity, Mil-Quad reticle in first focal plane, great glass from Japan , fairly light at 23.9 ounces , and SWFA's lifetime warranty. This scope is rated for any caliber gun .I am selling it for $475 including insured shipping with tracking to the conus. Not interested in trades or offers at this time. Please deal by pm. Thanks for looking. Herb

Sometimes in the process of tuning it is necessary to cut a spring and heat the last coil to collapse the end before flattening. I have seen several posts on here about heat treating after, usually with regard to what to quench in after. Water vs. Oil etc. I would question the validity of doing this.

I say this due largely to the fact that metal is conductive. The idea is to heat, quench and harden the coil you have just collapsed. The reality is if you apply heat at the first blue line in the photo, you are also applying heat to the closest coils of the springdown to the second blue line. Those coils will not be at the ideal temp for hardening, and will be effected by the process. Potentially creating a pattern of hard at the end, a different unknown hardness at the 2nd blue line, and then a return to the factory hardness once at a distance that remained cool enough to be unaffected. Vs an untreated spring that would have a soft/annealed end, tempered at the 2nd blue line. And then returning to factory hardness in the unaffected portion. Which would be a natural progression of increase, and potentially better transition.
I won't ramble on forever before leaving this out for discussion. However, I am a guy who has built my own coal fired blacksmithing forge, and made knives that require heat treat for hardness, and process for tempering to be able to hold an edge without becoming brittle at the apex. My question on this process is rooted in the idea that I would never spot heat treat a knife, and expect good results. You heat the entire blade before the quench to ensure uniformity. To restore proper heat treat in the spring it should be all, or none IMHO.

JTS is officially a sponsor of Airgun Nation! Please follow this LINK to give them a warm welcome.



To celebrate, JTS would like to thank the AGN community by giving away 3 tins of pellets for each week of March!

Simply reply to this thread below with the word "IN".

The 3rd giveaway begins now and ends March 30th, at 10pm CDT. A single winner will be selected with a random number generator the following day.

Good luck everyone!!!

ATTENTION PARTICIPANTS:
This is a private giveaway and is open to current residents of the United States (void where prohibited). Multiple entries by the same contestant will result in disqualification. Prizes must be claimed within 10 days of the event’s end.

*** Please do NOT subscribe to notifications from this topic or you will receive an email alert every time someone submits a guess! ***

I'm interested in selling my 2022 HM1000x.LRT in .30 caliber. It comes with a DonnyFL moderator, HUMA adapters and Huma adjustable regulator for testing with and without an air bottle, Sekhmet air gauge and ARCA rail.

The targets were on day 1 or 2 without a tune, The large group is a 36 shot group, the lower a 9 shot group at 50 yards. Sale includes rifle and items mentioned above, does not include optic, mount, digital level or Vortex Impact 4000 laser rangefinder

Mint condition. With pellets it is a laser beam.

$1,500.00, buyer pays shipping, bottom 48 only.

My YH compressor blew up haha.
What is this top part called? Assuming i could find the connector itself at a hardware store?

i never thought much about these, theyre cheap, keep a few packs onhand for various things, and they wind up (for me) in the bottom of a drawer full of manuals and paperwork and other 'burnable' material .. today i needed a couple for a lazer that had gone dead and noted that some had gone bad, swelled, and obviously generated some heat when they ruptured, note the paper backing is brown .. maybe not likely, but i feel like i dodged a bullet there lol ... could have got ugly .. so if you got a pack of these nestled in with some tinder you may want to re-think it, especially if theyve been in there a year or two

Crooked Barn/Crosman Pistols, have two avail, one is a 32cal lead ball shooter and the other is his shot pistol but can also shoot a 38cal lead ball, they both have slow leaks and need to be resealed. These where a blast to shoot but have no time to tinker with them so offering them up for adoption. $215 shipped each

Then go to València, Spain (as I just did) and witness (feel) the “mascleta”…

Be sure to watch the video to the end!

Shot out of my Kalibrgun Snipe .22 50 yards 1000fps .

I have just got my first air gun! It is a fx wildcat mk3 bottle compact.
I bought with it a small air tank.

Unfortunately I can not figure out how to fill the air gun
Since I'm new to the hobby, it may be something obvious I'm missing, or I may just be doing it wrong or missing a step somewhere...

Can anyone here be kind enough to double check my process and offer any advice? I would really appreciate it.

STEPS:

1. I got the tank (guppy from topgun airguns) filled at a local paintball shop, (unfortunately there are no airgun stores even within an hour drive of me).
They filled it to where the gauge says about 4000ish psi. Tho now it's down to 3500 after all my attempted troubleshooting.

2. When I get home I connect one end of the hose to the tank. I make sure the side bleed valve and the top open valve are both closed.

3. I take off the little dust cap on the fill opening of the gun. I slide the quick connect part from the other end of the hose over it, making sure it locks in place.

4. I slowly open the tank valve. Here the gauge on the tank jumps a bit (i'm assuming because it is filing the hose.)
HOWEVER, it stops after that small bit and does not rise any.
And also NOTHING happens on the gauge of the gun, the numbers don't move at all, even if waiting a full minute.
It just stays on the same number (stays at what it came with, maybe 240ish, I was trying to fill it to the 300 full line)

5. I close the tank top valve. I open the bleed valve on the side, and air comes out of it plus the gauge on the tank itself empties. Then I disconnect the hose from the gun.


6. Once the hose is disconnected from the gun, I opened the tank valve back up to see if air comes out of the hose by itself, and it does.


So it seems no air is getting into the gun?

I tried googling some stuff to see if I can find any suggestions,
One suggestion was to try filling it with the gun cocked, or with the lever held partially cocked.
I tried both, but same thing, air will come out of the hose, but if the hose is connected to the gun, nothing happens.

Another suggestion I read was dry firing the gun a few times to maybe reset inside stuff.
Tried that, it fires fine. But attempting the fill actions after, again nothing happens.


Anyone have any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks in advance

PORTABLE SHOOTING BENCH COMPLETED VER V.

I have finished the Portable Shooting Bench Project.

The edge-molding and fancy tacks arrived yesterday so, I put the final touch on this project.

Now... its time to take it out and scratch and bump it and of course, shoot off it.

Don

I just received my first ever bipod for my rifle. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to cap the buttstock of the rifle so that it cushions it against the ground when I put the rifle down standing on its bipod so that I don't bugger up my buttstock.

Its NICE to see those of us who are into the .20 and its performance abilities in FT and other shooting aspects. My question is this. What weights of .20 cal ammo would you like to see and what styles of pellets? Its unfortunate we get almost NO requests from dealers for any ammo or guns in the .20 cal variety but if we as a group do our part to convince these dealers I think we could do a run of guns also. So question two is. What type of .20 cal guns would you like to see? So everyone should know we are currently looking at .20 cal ammo designs and will likely produce them as there are very limited in stores and varieties . Thanks again everyone.

Excellent shape. Currently tuned to about 32 fpe and shooting like lasers. 1 sealed tin of jsb 18.1 and 4.5 tims of AA 18.1g. Also included is an Oldspook mod that works very well. 2 mags and impact hard case.

Anyone on Maui to teach airgun repair/gunsmithing? looking for myself and not for business

Fun little compact .177. 3 mags, Hard case, and hush suppressor. Bought from another member of forum. Paper work from AOA in case.

Just a heads up...the above GX models have desiccant beads in them.

It's a good idea to dry them or swap them out occasionally. Many might not even know that they are there.

Up for sale is a .25 Daystate Air Ranger. I am selling because I realized I like bullpups and bought a FX Wildcat MK3 BT to replace this powerhouse.

The gun is in mint condition minus some handling marks on the custom full barrel shroud (see pictures). It will come with 1 factory mag, 4 CARM mags ($140), O-Ring Kit, Spare Aluminum 500cc bottle and option to buy it with Hawke Sport Optics Sidewinder Tactical 8.5-25x42mm Side Focus Riflescope and scope rings. Price below is with and without scope/rings depending on what you choose.

The rifle has been upgraded with a 480cc CF bottle ($150 from AoA), this upgrade results in a really well balanced rifle while also reducing weight. I will include the 500cc aluminum bottle you can use as a spare (pictured below).

The gun has maybe 900 to 1000 rounds through it and it has been flawless in function. The rifle holds air indefinitely and has no leaks, though I am including an O-ring Kit (picture below) that I purchased from AoA but never needed. The gun is currently shooting JSB 25.39 pellets at an average of 940 fps and JSB 33.95 at an average of 850 fps.

This Daystate Air Ranger is fitted with the new Harper Mk4 valve for a high shot capacity, ambidextrous high grade walnut stock with a superb oiled finish, it is a beautiful old school rifle built with high quality materials.

Gun new listed for $1500 and scope for $500.

Will ship in a hard case and boxed.

Asking $1050 shipped/insured in the CONUS with scope and rings, 5 mags, O-Ring Kit, Spare Aluminum Bottle OR $850 without scope and rings.

Accepting PayPal with fees or friends and family, or postal money order.

You can look up positive feedback on my eBay account as I do not have much history on this forum: https://www.ebay.com/usr/anpusainc

Thanks for looking.

Pictures below with the 480cc CF Bottle and scope with rings.

Please send me a PM if you want to see high resolution pictures or have questions

Just wondering what most prefer in shipping a heavy springer that can't have the stock removed. Probably not going to be cheap by any carriers.
I have a hardcase for it but finding a cardboard box to fit that in might be a pain. thanks

Hi all, I recently picked up a set of sights off the Bay that were advertised as HW77. Upon arrival, I do believe the front blade is correct but the rear looks a bit off. Particularly the underside which doesn't look appropriately dovetailed to interface with the recesses on the comp tube. Anyone out there recognize what this rear sight belongs to?

Is it better to buy a used airgun or new ?