good evening everybody. i am very new to airguns and this forum. never realized this realm is so intricate and expensive lol. i am used to firearms so i do have some knowledge of gun mechanics. anyways i am looking to purchase my first PCP airgun. i wanted to use it for hunting medium-big game. i was really interested in the Bintac m50 in 45 cal. Would this not be good for a beginner gun? so all i will need to get this working is the gun, hand pump, and slugs correct? can i leave the gun charged max at home for long periods of time? Sorry for all the questions i just really wanna know all the ins and outs of PCP guns before i make a purchase cuz holy cow its expensive. thanks everyone!

Can Delta Wolf .22 Cal shoot slugs accurately?

I will appreciate feedback.

I may have been the last to see this but I have not seen it posted on AGN.
As a Noob who picked up a P17 on a whim I found this interesting.

Got out this morning with the HW100S for a squirrel hunt. I had started the season off with my Kimber 22 as it had not been used much in the last couple of years so this morning was the first time out for the season with the HW. I saw three but only managed to get a shot at one. I nailed this one with a fifty yard shot using the 18 grain JSBs that the rifle prefers best of all. Dialed the scope to 10X and held over 1/2 Dot, dropped the pellet right into one eyeball. Couldn't find an exit hole so I thought that I might recover the pellet and I dissected the head looking for it without any luck. The other two squirrels never presented a shot. One was over 75 yards away hopping around near some pecans and finally disappeared, the second I spooked moving to a new spot and it never stopped running. Better luck next time.

I have a small/big feral dog (coyote) problem in my area. Just wanted to see what you might suggest for power, versatility, quietness and Accuracy. Just sole food for thought to see what’s been successful and performs where it counts.

If you have coons you want to feed for while only using a small amount of food, this should help you out. These feeders give you ample time to observe the coons feeding to your delight! I recommend filling with dry cat food. If you want them to find it faster, fill the spout to the brim with food and sprinkle some more food around the feeder. When mounting it position the spout facing downwind during rain. This is minimize any change of rain getting inside the feeder. Drain holes will stop pooling of water if any gets inside.

When printing them use the slicer print order setting of inside then outside, or else the threads will not print right. The file dimension are unaltered from the ideal, but reality is different. To ease the fitting of the cap I suggest scaling the cap 102% to 103% more on X and Y leaving Z to same to give more clearance for the threads. Use a filament type that is heat and UV resistant. I used PETG. Don't use PLA as it will melt in the summer sun!

Happy coon watching




View attachment Coon Feeder Cap.zip

I started typing this in response to my other thread. First I'm not a gunsmith or a tuner that's worked on all different types of airguns. I'm just a car guy and retired machinist who has worked on a fair amount of Weihrauchs. In the process I've slugged quite a few Weihrauch barrels and had fairly similar results across the board. Slugging a barrel is pushing a pellet manually from the breech out the muzzle. It's a good way to understand what might be going on with a gun's accuracy or output. There's a guy on here that has an excellent video on doing it. I'm just gonna explain what I've found and learned over the years.

Weihrauch barrels are rifled before the the muzzle end is either crimped for sights or threaded for moderators. A muzzle choke is created by the crimp or threading.

I'm not sure if the knurling is done prior to rifling or not. Either way there's typically some sort of constriction inside the breech block especially the knurled areas from either the knurling process and or pressing it into the breech block.

The leade where the pellet is loaded is crowned for loading and sometimes reamed for fit. Pellet fit in the leade isn't necessarily an indication of a loose or tight bore. Reaming can sometimes result in a noticeable step into the tighter breech area just a past the opening. The step is so noticeable on some guns it's visible with a flashlight. I took a picture of it on my first Weihrauch (Hw95) thinking it was a defect causing my accuracy issues. I sent the rifle back to AOA where they explained that was normal and there was nothing wrong with the barrel or rifle. It was a string of bad UTG scopes that had me chasing my tail. A newbie mistake. Now the rifle is my most accurate break barrel. Except the muzzle choke the bore is usually tighter inside breech block than the rest of the barrel. For simplicity I call that tight area inside the breech block the breech choke. Perhaps not technically correct by the definition and manufacture of a traditional choke.

Although the tight area or areas inside the breech block's length is a byproduct of manufacturing, I'm sure it's existence is deliberate and part of the design. After 11 years a BMW master mechanic I'm plenty familiar with German engineers and their philosophy and practices. They are very good and well aware of their work. They won't admit mistakes but they don't let them go unfixed for decades either. Let me explain some of the positive effects this breech "choke" has when working correctly. Then you'll understand why it's been left in production that way.

The first benefit of the breech constriction or choke is it sizes down all pellets to a consistent size to fit that barrel. The rifle automatically does something competition shooters painstakingly do. If Weihrauchs size all the pellets in this breech choke why does head size still make a difference in accuracy? First it can't size down already undersized pellets. Second and this is really getting in the weeds but even lead has a certain amount of elasticity or rebound after forming. Larger heads will still rebound to a slightly larger size after the passing through a tight spot like the breech area. Larger head sizes will also smear to a longer rifling engagement area which might change it's accuracy.

When the breech choke or constriction is too tight, it can shrink the pellet too much. Then the pellet may not engage the rifling properly and air pressure can bypass the pellet. This can negatively affect accuracy and or power. I've experienced this twice now. Once with a brand new 20 caliber barrel and now with a 22 caliber barrel. The accuracy on both was acceptable but the power was well below normal or advertised.

Another possible benefit of a breech restiction is it may create a spike in pressure to pop the pellet out at a faster velocity than it might if the bore was straight. Think pop gun. In the typically desired low drag, perfectly straight bore the pellet would likely accelerate in a more linear fashion and consume the swept volume before reaching the same velocity as the pop gun effect breech.

Past this breech constriction, restiction, choke or whatever you want to call it, the barrels usually open up. The barrels typically have only light drag from the rifling engagement between the breech and muzzle. That's partly why there's no real difference in power outputs between long and short barrels on these guns. Almost every Weihrauch barrel I've slugged has this basic profile. Some barrels are tighter in areas than others. Some have inconsistent engagement drag. When slugging barrels some will have such light engagement the pellet will gravity fall through some sections. This is most commonly found around an inch or so before the sight crimp. Any bore size inconsistency can cause the pellet to chatter down the bore and have bad accuracy. This is why you have a muzzle choke.

The muzzle choke basically grabs the pellet and straightens it out before it leaves the barrel. Weihrauch muzzle chokes vary in resistance. Most are only noticeably tight and some are ridiculously tight. I almost have to pound the pellet through the muzzle choke of the threaded 22 barrel I've been messing with recently. This obviously would consume energy. Especially since there's no significant air pressure left behind the pellet by time it gets to the muzzle.

You'd think it might make sense to use pellets that run small in a gun with a tight choke at either end to reduce resistance and increase power. The problem is not that other pellets are too big but the choke is too tight. I've run smaller and softer pellets through tight choke guns hoping to gain energy. There's typically little to no gain in velocity because the driving air pressure bypasses the undersized pellet. Plus the accuracy tanks because it doesn't engage the rifling throughout most of the barrel.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that some people have reported cutting off the choke and recrowning Weihrauch barrels without losing accuracy. I personally wouldn't do it without slugging the barrel first to make sure there's adequate rifling engagement through the full length of the barrel. Even with adequate engagement I'd still look to cut it at a tighter spot.

Also I slugged all my rifles today before posting this to ensure my accuracy after other people's differing experiences. I did find that my 177 Hw50 wasn't particularly tighter in most of the breech than most of the bore. There was a slightly tighter spot just inside the breech towards the front of the breech block otherwise the drag was fairly consistent throughout most of it's length. It did have what I'd call the typical loose spot before the muzzle crimp and of course the associated muzzle choke. Don't ask me what causes that loose spot. F'd if I know.

In a perfect world Weihrauch's chokes wouldn't be necessary. We don't live in a perfect world and pellets aren't always consistently sized so Weihrauch sizes them for you. Unfortunately (albeit rarely) their tolerances are sometimes off and we wind up with a dud. Like I said, I've had two now that were under powered. Thats only two out of dozens of guns I've worked on that were produced from the 80s to this year. I did have two brand new 177 77SEs with consecutive serial numbers that had atrocious accuracy. The guns were returned for a refund. The exact barrel defect is still unknown to me. So I guess that's four defective barrels. I imagine no caliber or model is exempt from an occasional defect. IMO nothing mass produced is. Overall Weihrauch produces good quality barrels and rifles as a whole.

If you ever have accuracy or low power issues I highly recommend slugging a barrel. I normally use bamboo BBQ skewers. They're usually strong enough to push a pellet through without the possibility of damaging the bore. If they're not strong enough the barrels probably bad and you can use a brazing rod. Also slugging has to be done with a good fitting pellet from the breech out to get accurate feedback. This requires complete disassembly of 77s and 97s. I'm not sure if it can be done at all with a 57. Its the only current Weihrauch I haven't worked on.

I hope this helps some people understand what's normal and what to look for. Even knowing this myself I still have to prove a barrel faulty by swapping it out. I'm not happy to have to have done this twice now, but it does help me learn what to look for. I guess I'll eventually get a feel for how tight it's too tight and what's too loose.

Be well all.
Ron

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Got a new valve from Mathew at JSAR, and swapped to a Hill lightweight hammer. The gun is quieter now, seems to be more efficient? Was able to sight her in in 4 shots.

This bottle build is a little more awkward in the field, just because I haven't figured out how to install a sling yet, but have an idea.

Got both of these bogies by 7:30, was batting 1000 till I moved to another spot and had two clean misses. SHUX!

Shooting 18.1 FX pellets @900 or so. Both dropped like a rock, DRT!

Hi, I just received the Umarex Notos yesterday. I haven't even fired a shot. When I cock the lever, it doesn't hold in place and springs forward. Any ideas what is causing this and how I can get around it? The gun is not cocked. I disengaged the safety and pressed the trigger and nothing.

LCS Air Arms SK-20 Automatic .25 Air Rifle​

1 of 5 made SPECIALLY made by LCS for the EBR speed event.

This is a 20 shot SK-19 in .25 Cal. All others have a 19 shot capacity.

Dual Bottle system and comes with TWO extra barrels and hard case.

Super fun to shoot and VERY accurate.

Fitted with Hawk Sidewinder ED 10x50x60
and Eagle Vision INS 30 adjustable scope rings.

Over $4000 invested.

Selling all for $2000 for complete package that includes Scope, Scope rings, 2 extra .25 cal barrels.

Will sell rifle separately if interested. Make an offer.

Details..
The SK-19 air rifle from LCS Air Arms represents a new generation in a semi-auto hammer-less design. Made in the USA! The tactical design and select-fire function allows for semi-auto or full-auto rate of fire. The SK-19 provides an incredible rate of fire and high power in either 22 or 25 caliber. The LCS SK-19 magazine provides 19 shots and will chamber the longest of available pellets or slugs. Accuracy is provided by a Lother-Walther barrel and a highly tunable regulated action. The regulator is adjustable from a small easy-to-access knob just in front of the air fill. A power wheel at the back of the action gives the shooter further command of the air delivery mechanism. The rifle sports two safeties, a picatinny scope rail and bipod rail. The barrel is covered with a carbon fiber style shroud and silencer for low muzzle report. The LCS SK-19 comes standard with a 480cc removable carbon bottle and two pressure gauges for vital air supply and regulator pressure information. In full-auto fire the rifle will run through the 19 shot magazine in under 3 seconds. The SK-19 is a leap forward in airgunning fun and performance.

Includes hard case with securing straps and room for your favorite scope.

Notos
14.35gn @ 757fps (18fpe)

October and it's still over 100 degrees and not much moving so on a slow day I entertain myself with some slow motion vids

Used Tactacam 5.0 scope cam @ 240fps and the Akaso Brave8 @ 480fps at the target

Many of my PCPs started leaking after 2-3 years, usually after the warranty ended.

The amount of time I spent trying to fix leaks by replacing o'rings is huge.
Sometimes I succeeded fixing the leaks, other times I decided I had enough and sold the PCPs.

PCPs (at this time) are the least robust of air guns, mostly because they need to hold air much longer (and at much higher pressure) than a springer, multipump or CO2 air gun.

They also are the most powerful and most accurate at longer range, and even short range

When I shoot PCPs I love them!
When I fix their leaks I hate them!

If the PCP leaks continue I will soon spend more time with my slingshots or bows, both can be fixed in 5 minutes or thrown away if something breaks.

So, what am I to do?

Anyone with a leaking PCP start complaining

Hate to sell her, but up for grabs is my old faithful .22 cal, super accurate and regulated, FX Royale 400. It's one that I will regret selling.

My buddy Van custom painted the stock for me so it's one of a kind.

Currently fitted with a Hawke Airmax 30 8-32x50, adjustable rings and Huggett moderator. Comes with 2 magazines.

Selling as package with scope and rings or rifle only.

Package deal for $1200 with free shipping or
$1000 for rifle only. Shipping not included.

Call or text
6O2-43O-O737

10 shots at 25 yards pictures below with shot details.

Anyone have issues with their side focus being really hard to turn? I mean like really really hard to turn to the point that your finger hurts just by gripping it and turning it. I have a center point with side focus is really hard to turn. I work it back and forth and it got a tiny easier but still hard. Then I purchased a new scope westhunter compact scope 3x12 44ao. This one is twice as hard as the Centerpoint. I grip it as hard as I can and force it to turn, it wouldn't even budge. My fingers hurt to the point i couldnt do it anymore. I have to get a cloth and grip it and turn so it wouldnt hurt. It barely turns. I work it back and forth and it is now a little easier to turn by hand. But still have to grip it and turn really hard just for it to move. Shouldn't the side focus be easier rotate? Why is it so hard? Is there ways to make it easier to turn.

I've started making Air Rifle Totes in my hobby shop (I'm retired). I buy kiln dried rough lumber from local sawmill and mill it myself.

Features:

• Streamlined
• 22-24x9x9 inches
• 6.68 Pounds
• About any native hardwood.
• Dowel and glue joinery (you can see pair of dowels on each end of the sides below.
• Oil Finish
• Holding channels for rifle and for shooting sticks.
  • Forend is 60MM wide
• All stock supports are padded with high-grade leather
• I attach 1/2" braided climbers rope for carrying handles

$115 + shipping of $15.

This one is Walnut and White Ash (I can make; Walnut, Ash, Ambrosia Maple, Easter Red Cedar, & Cherry).

Does anyone know of a source for practice paper targets with all the kill zone sizes?

Gents, I traded notes with Tony McDaniel this week and was happy to learn the Hickory show is still on for Friday November 1, and Saturday November 2. This is in spite of the violent flood damage to western North Carolina and east Tennessee from hurricane Helene, which is almost beyond belief.

Hickory is on Interstate 40, located east of the worst stuff, BUT I-40 and I-26 are closed west of Asheville NC and won't be back anytime soon, with sections heavily damaged and bridges destroyed. And the NC Dept of Transportation simply says to consider all smaller roads in that part of NC closed.

So if you plan to come, definitely keep an eye on usable routes! (From Knoxville TN, for example, I will likely loop north via I-81 and I-77, then hit I-40 east of Hickory.)

Just got my replacement compressor - a Yong Heng for a Yong Heng. As much as I would love to have a GX, I love having groceries and electricity more.

So I got the new compressor, I got an inline water/oil separator, I'm good.... but also scared a bit.

Is there a specific way to test a compressor, like perhaps a dummy tip that goes on the end of the hose to raise the pressure up? Before I start hooking up precious items to this thing, I want to make sure it's safe.

Taipan Vet Tactical 2 in 5.5mm
Origenal condition as from factory.

Incl are:
2 origenal mags, single load tray and hammer adjusting pins.

Very very accurate with slugs en pellets.

$965 Shiped

Text: 806 566 7190

Does BC change based on speed of bullet or is it constant regardless of speed?

i have a sidewinder compact 25cal I'd like to trade for a fx king ... let me know if you're interested and I'll send pics

I was looking some over to read and thought interesting a cometa Orion pcp bullpup was use in chapter



Anyway just thought fun to share

Does anyone know the size and thread type of the adjustment screw in the AMP regulator? I’d like to polish the mating portion of the screw to reduce any creep. I’m trying to make a jig that the adjustment screw would go into ( kinda like a bolt and screw) that would allow me to polish the head better.
Anyone know the screw size and thread type.?

Has anyone done busy with Lethal air? I am looking to send my rifle to them and wondering everyones experience with them if they have had any. I searched and saw some bad post concerning them but that was years ago!!