Hello everyone,

I know you good folks up North wish that the snow was all gone and some green grass and flowers covered the landscape. However down here in Deep East Texas we have already mowed the yard and enjoying a beautiful Spring day. My brother lived in the Hill Country of Texas, Fredericksburg to be exact, before he passed away, and he gathered up a bunch of Texas Blue Bonnet seeds for me a couple of years ago. I planted them and boy did they grow great for me, here are a couple of photos that I took this morning, hope it will make you day a bit better.

ThomasT

Who knew 7 FPE could be so much fun! I built this low power plinker for my father-in-law. It's surprisingly accurate (and quiet) at 30 yards!

Airgun: Diana Chaser via Pyramyd Air
Adjustable stock and accessories: @buckrailairguns
Optic: Axeon 3x Prism via Umarex USA
Projectile: JSB 13.4g pellets at 500fps

Anybody else having low powered C02 fun?!!!!

-Michael

Recently been cleaning my late grandparents' estate...
I remember this pistol from being a kid. Showed my dad and asked if he remembered it. He said " I got that for my 10th bday"(HIS 10TH)
it's wayyyy older than I thought.
The rifle only got used a few times before my sister got it taken(blaming me).
Both still function and sling projectiles!!
Buuuut the rifle wasn't stored as well and will need LOTS of TLC to make it look decent again.
The clock wasn't working and needed cleaning. It was the biggest. And got fixed first
*twas my granfather's retirement present from the company he worked for.

I cannot find a YouTube that explains Panthera tuning in detail. Help please. The power wheel is obvious but the micro adjustment is not. I can't even figure out how to get a hex wrench in the tiny hole behind the pressure gauge to adjust the regulator.

So I very recently installed the huma transfer port and the FX slug power kit into my .25 Impact M3. Upon installing these new additions I had to remove the air bottle quite a few times because I was just starting to learn the inner workings of the gun. So after I ran into a bit of a problem with my Regulator 2 pressure not giving me a reading, I called Utah Airguns and was advised by a Tech over the phone to remove my air bottle and take a 2.5mm allen key and turn counter-clockwise until it gently stops. Which I did, and as soon as i re-attached my air bottle the Regulator 1 pressure was reading 250 bar. After about 2 minutes, I removed the air bottle again and readjusted the Regulator 1 to read 160 bar. My question is, Did I damage anything inside the rifle? Because it states in the owners manual to never adjust your regulator pressure over 170. And...well it was at 250. However...I did NOT shoot the rifle, nor was it kept at this 250 setting for a long period of time. Im just kind of pissed off that I was advised to do this by a so called "tech" who should know better? When it clearly states to never go above 170 in the owners manual. Am I being overly worrisome? Or am I within my right to be somewhat ticked off about this?
In the picture below is with the red arrow pointing to where I made the adjustment. So you can see for yourself. Please, any and all feedback is very much appreciated and very much welcomed.

Hello AGN:

I have a Mint, Like New in Original Box DonnyFL Fat Boy 2.0 LDC w/ 1/2 UNFx20 threads that I'm looking to sell. As you probably already know, Donny isn't selling any more of these for the foreseeable future so they're getting to be harder to find for the time being. I got this Fat Boy 2.0 only a few months ago and have only tried it out briefly on my M3's but it's too . . . fat for my purposes It will come in its original packaging with all three strippers for use with 0.177, 0.22, 0.25 and 0.30 caliber pellets/slugs.

Price is $150 shipped

I've got plenty of positive feedback here so please feel free to check them on the Member Feedback forum prior to purchasing. Paypal Friends & Family payment is prefered (otherwise, please add 3.5% to cover the fees). Local pickup in the SF Bay Area is available as well.

Thanks!

Finally got a warm day yesterday here in Indiana (70 deg). Wind wasn’t too bad, but humidity was pretty high. Got home from work and decided to take advantage of the warmth. Set up some targets in the back yard and got out the 97k in .20. This is usually my go to gun just to get in some quick shots. The last time I shot it was late January when we had a 50-60 degree day.

In January I was nailing my spinners at about 45 yds. About 1.75 mil dots low, and dead on at 30 yds. So I held over the same amount yesterday, and couldn’t hit anything at 45yd. Same target location, same tin of pellets. So I tried some spinners at 30 yes, and was occasionally clipping the bottom edge???

Time to pull out some paper to see what was going on.

At 30 yards I was hitting a full mildlot low. First target attached. I also wasn’t the happiest with the group. So put the target at 45, and yup now it was 2.75 dots low. Second target attached.

Never experienced a shift like this in the past. What is up? From January to now the rifle has set in the case and not really touched. This is how I always store it. Have any of you seen a shift like this for no real reason?

I did adjust the scope up about 5 clicks, and now it is hitting great at 30 and 45. Just wonder what caused the shift, and is something I’m going to see again?

Bam86

This could go under several subject categories so will post here in this catch-all.

I try to avoid cumbersome and/or expensive gadgets and opt for little and cheap when possible, like this side wheel and metric steel measuring tape set up.

The wheel came in a box of junky parts someone handed me and the tape measure from Amazon for a few bucks.

Starting from the "0" end of the tape, I cut a length long enough to go around my wheel so the ends meet. This is more for aesthetics as I never use all 360 degrees of the wheel. I used scissors to slice the tape lengthwise so its width approximates the width of my wheel.

I applied Goop adhesive to the surface of the wheel and the tape according to the manufacturer's instructions, turned the wheel all the way to the nearest focus setting and began applying the "0" end of the tape at my pointer, wrapping the tape around the wheel and securing it with a rubber band until the adhesive cured.

My dope card is two sided. I focus, read the value on the tape at the pointer, look at my card, hold and shoot.

I've been teased about having the tiniest wheel at FT matches but I can range as well as anyone because the markings are so numerous and close together.

For quite some time I have liked the looks of the Uragan. I believe I am to a point where I may start watching the classifieds.

My preference is for a .30 with the 700mm barrel. I cast an NOE 300-55 bullet that I have decent luck with, my hope would be the Uragan and that slug would be compatible and easily tuned in the 100-125fpe range.

A couple of specific questions-----what plenum sizes are available? Are caliber swaps possible, if so what is the level of effort? Anything you hate about the gun?

Is there any real reason to go Uragan 2 vs the original?

I would love to hear from actual owners--the good, bad, and ugly. Thank you in advance for your input.

Just a little excerpt from Cardew and Cardews book, "The Airgun From Trigger to Target," that I find interesting in the current atmosphere of harmonic tuners and carbon fiber tubing/epoxy situations.

Chapter 9-The Barrel
Barrel Vibration
"In the field of firearms, barrel vibration is often blamed for inaccuracy. High speed photography has been used to examine this phenomenon and shows that a rifle barrel vibrates and wriggles about like an excited snake as the bullet travels along it. This is not surprising when one considers the huge pressures generated by the burning propellant as it forces the tight fitting bullet along the tube.

We investigated barrel vibration to see if it was the cause of inaccuracy in airguns. We were interested only in vibrations caused by the pellet itself while it was in the barrel and we did not want to be concerned with any vibrations set up by a spring and piston so we used our pneumatic projector (a very solidly mounted pneumatic rifle whose barrel may be left unsupported over the majority of its length).

We mounted vibration transducers on the muzzle of a breech mounted barrel so that ay vibration would be picked up and displayed on an oscilloscope. A slight thump with a hand anywhere on the barrel would cause the trace to move violently, yet firing the gun produced very little reaction. By causing the pellet to break a circuit carried by a pencil lead as it left the barrel, we could determine whether the small amount of vibration we had seen occurred before or after the pellet had left them muzzle.

This experiment showed an insignificant amount of vibration before the pellet left, but that the small amount of movement we had seen occurred after the pellet had left. This after exit vibration could have no effect on the accuracy of the shot.

Various other experiments were embarked upon to cross check the first, also to assure ourselves that vibration played no part in the production of large groups. In one instance we clamped a heavy lathe chuck on the muzzle, on another occasion we mounted the barrel in soft rubber rings, but the effect on the group sizes was negligible. The important factor always appeared to be the combination of barrel and pellet, later on we realized that in fact the combination of pellet, barrel and velocity have a far greater influence on the size of the group than any amount of vibration from a rifle in good condition."

The copy I just quoted from is copyright 1995 so this was back when true solid barrels were the only thing being used. A potential caveat is that no mention of fpe is made.

This may be my last stripper post for a while because I think I found the magic.

"Previously, on Tales About Strippers,"... I've been noodling around 3D printing strippers for my HW97. After going through different designs, I had settled on one that is basically a Hatsan/Rowan style stripper with a fixed cone. It's been working good, but it's a little loud for shooting in the house or back yard. So I printed a 4" moderator. Accuracy was OK, slightly bigger groups compared to the stripper. But the shot cycle felt weird, almost like the air in the moderator was causing a little recoil. A have a file for a moderator with air holes at the muzzle end that I had printed for my LGV. The previous print did not do well, the sides were too thin and you could see the outline of the baffles. So I went into design mode and thickened the walls, increased the pellet hole, removed the 1/2" female thread and added a male HW97 thread. Here's what's going on inside this moderator. Just past the muzzle there is a cone (like the stripper) with air holes. The cone transitions into 10 baffles configured like nested chevrons. Here's a picture:


I was happy with the print and I chronoed it to make sure there was no velocity loss. Nope, right at 790 fps, just like the stripper.
Then I shot it a few times in the house at 10 yards, there was a slight POI difference. And the sound is much reduced.

I went to the range today to try it at 50 yards, even though there was a pretty nasty wind. As I was sighting it in with the moderator, I had to come down about 10 clicks. Not up, down. Not sure if this is due to the wind or if it's shooting more efficiently, I'll need to wait for a less windy day to check this out.

Once I got it sighted in, I switched to the stripper and shot this group. Not a bad group for 50 yards off the knee in the wind.



Then I put the moderator back in and shot this group.

Wow. At the time, I thought I put 4 through the same hole but after looking at it I think it was probably 3 through the top hole and 2 through the bottom. Still, I think the time for tinkering has come to an end. I have found my huckleberry.

Here's a photo of the stripper and the moderator lounging sexily on a bum bag.


If anyone wants either STL file to print these yourself, send me a DM and I would be happy to oblige. I think I'll put a 1/2 female thread back into the new moderator design and try it on the LGV.

hello, I have a fx maverick .25. I was cleaning my barrel and noticed that in the final third of the barrel there are two lines inside the barrel, looking like a splice. this is normal?

Just got both of my scopes from DiscoveryOpt , they are the 5-25x56 ED PRS scope, Japanese ED Glass, TONS of goodies inside the box, will update a little later with pictures of inside the box contents. The scope is large, it is heavy at 2.4 pounds. What do you expect though?

I sighted in on a pine tree that was 400 yards and am pretty confident if I had a rifle that could reach that far I could take a chipmunk no problem. The reticle is busy but in a good way, its not obstructing, however it won't get lost either. The IR on it is bright as well (even came with battery installed), totally impressed.

The scope is definitely a clicker, super audible, lots of feed back and little slop.

I cannot wait to top my PRS Rifle and bench rifle with these scopes and be able to give you guys more feedback from off the bench.

This is my new Huben K1 .22 pigeon and rat gun. It's a very nice compliment to my Huben K1 .25

Currently tuned to shoot 15.89 hades at 815 fps, stopped counting shots around 130 , yup, over 130 shots on a rifle with a tube not a bottle.

Got my .22 and .25 JTS DEAD CENTER PELLETS in hand. I am impressed at how clean they are! Unfortunately the .25 are tight in breech in the one gun that I have shot them. Not real happy about that, as I'm sure I am probably wearing out my breech probe O-ring. The issue with the .25 is the skirt seems to have a bit more flair than other well known pellets.
GOOD NEWS: They group well at 100yds!

5-25x56. Comes with sun shade and 30mm rings. $200 $150 shipped with Pirate ship.

Just an ide to storage your silencer and endcap on your panthera.
Or forget it at home

I need a bag for field target and not sure what to fill it with. Any input would be appreciated.

This is a Zobroia Sapsan S in 25cal. Bought the gun and never had a chance to use it, found out i had heart problems and never had a chance to shoot it much. Has had less than a tin of pellets thru it, shoots great with Hades, only thing that i shot thru it. Had open heart surgery so just thinning out some of the ones i hardly shot!! $1150.00 in the Lower 48, $50.00 Shipping. This is for gun only no scope or rings!! Postal money order or PayPal

listing my uragan 30 caliber. comes with 2 magazines. I will include a few tins of jsb slugs and pellets it likes. firm on price $1050 shipped. have not shot it since I got it a few months back. I prefer PayPal FnF or PayPal goods and services + fee. if you want to see more pictures PM me. it will ship via UPS.

I finally got around to doing some tuning with the new Pro-Chrono DLX (trying to replace the Caldwell since it no longer works with IOS updated and Caldwell doesn't care to update the app)
What I found was that all my shots with the Pro_Chrono are about 25 fps slower than the Caldwell records them.
I ended up putting them inline front to back and switched them several times.
All shots were at 12 feet from the chrono's.
Both were also used independently of either so as to take the light kits iterfearing with each other out of the equation.
I guess this means all my tuning I've done with the Caldwell is either right or wrong.
Everything else was about the same in regards to ES but what used to be 912 was 887 and this was repeated with 3 different airguns getting 25 fps difference.
Anyone have a similar finding? Maybe I need an FX pocket chrono.

For sale one of my PCP rifles. Bought directly from Edgunwest. Leshiy 2 Raven 350mm .22 , Behemoth Moderator and shroud. Rifle is in excellent close to new condition.
Everything included that came with the gun in original package. New sells for $2860.

Extra: Edgun cf 300cc bottle, Edgun speed loader , Wika regulator gauge, ~$600 in extra value.

Price for everything $2450 PayPal shipped in the US. Can meet in person around Seattle.

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Unlike traditional lead-free alloys, which have a variety of well known issues, these lead-free alternative projectiles will deliver more energy on target and do so more accurately, at longer ranges! These projectiles also have absolutely outstanding terminal performance! They are highly lethal at any velocity, at any range, and should satisfy any and all requirements around effectiveness.

;-)

Hey all — first post here on this forum; this year marks 50 years since my dad bought me my Crosman 1400 .22 pellet gun. So many great memories with it — still have it of course and have only put 30-40 shots through it in the last year or two after “rediscovering” it. I’ve sure enjoyed it over the years. It’s always been a very accurate gun and the envy of more than a few friends, way back in the day. It seems to still have plenty of power even though I’ve neglected oiling it and keeping any pressure in it for decades. Just oiled it up with some Pellgunoil and will be shooting it again. Any experts out there want to offer insights into how my compression/power and seals may or may not be compromised after all these years? And any other suggestions for me to keep it in top shape? I should be shooting it with more frequency now, mostly just target stuff….. And any other 1400 owners out there?

Tuned and customized by the Theoben master Alan Zasadny himself. Comes with his trademark QF quick fill adapter, barrel crowning, SS oversized bolt knob, AZ fully lapped 1" rings, 12oz trigger, full length custom shroud. Nestled in a gorgeous Steve Corcoran custom Thumb Hole stock. Incredibly hard hitting, shooting .25 JSBs at 884 fps. The 6-24x44 scope is included. Comes with one OEM mag and a custom Theoben soft case. This regulator should be serviced but that's a given. The rifle has been in my safe and is not getting used. The stock is in great condition. Questions welcome. Not interested in trades at this time.

Looking for a good home for this beautiful machine, so just looking to get $1050 for everything. Buyer to cover S/H/I

-Jimmy