Air Arms Utah Airguns Pyramyd AIR FX Airguns Daystate Diana Airgun Depot Edgun West Palm Beach Airguns DonnyFL: PCP Air Rifle Shop and Airgun Moderators The Pellet Shop Airforce Airguns
Saber Tactical Optisan Side-Shot Scope Cam NE Airguns Baker Airguns AGS Topgun Airguns Predator International Huben Airguns Huma-Air Shooting Supplies Hurricane Luftvapen AEA Precision Airguns H&N Impulse Air ZAN Projectiles Hawke Optics Stud Mag Loader RX Target Systems Sports Match Scope Mounts Altaros Banner CTA Thomas Air Hatsan USA Georgia Air Guns Skout Airguns Nielsen Specialty Ammo Patch Worm Weihrauch Sport Talon Tunes Airgun-Revisions JTS PARD ST7 PPP RTI AirStryk Industries Macavity Arms

Need assistance in a model chrono

Hey, all, I need assistance on the certain chrono that folks found excellent enough to do what’s needed w/o breaking the bank. I recently got my bro in law into pcp’s and you all know the investment it takes to get started from having no pcp experience at all, so I’m trying to help him with a decent “must have” without breaking the bank or having my sister beat his a$$, ha ha!!

It’s the chrono that reads I believe in FPM(?) and is found on amazon for I believe less than $50? I tried searching thru amazon but theirs a ton of different types and I know at one time there was a popular one being used by members here.

Please provide a link so I can easily forward to him- thanks a bunch, all!!😃👍

RIP Strever, Dick

Its with great regret that my Father Richard aka Dick Strever has passed away after several years of Battling Cancer. Those who knew him, knew he was a avid gun collecter on top of the love to compete and shoots air rifles. Sadly his time has ended and is now at peace and with god.

My mother / Dicks wife has plans to sell 99% of his gun collection. The guns, the ammo, anything related to air rifles. Over the next month i will post pictures of as much stuff as i can. Or if anyone here has suggestions as to the best way to sell everyone off we are all ears. You can message me anytime. sorry not much on words so ill leave it at that.

If anyone knows of any other forums my father was on, please let me know so i can post there also.

Do you know me?

100% of my interactions with fellow air gunners are here on AGN or on the new HAM site. Some members here are lucky enough to shoot with friends and to make friends in competition. So their interactions are more interpersonal as well as online. I don’t pretend to know anyone here, whether through their “public” postings or “PMs”. The only thing I “assume” about them is that they are good people and they like Airguns. Recently I disagreed with a members’ public posting and expressed my opinion. Back and forth PMs ensued. We both agreed to chat on the phone to better clear the air. Big mistake on my part. It ended with me being seriously disrespected… by a person I held in high esteem. This left me perplexed as I at no time disrespected him. I’ve reached out to him via PM, realizing that in the heat of “his moment” he simply lost his temper? But no reply, it just irks me how he continues to post blithely, without acknowledging any wrongdoing. If he treated me, who he doesn’t know this way, will others who fall out of line, get the same disrespect? Oh well… Live and learn. And no I won’t be divulging, publicly or through PMs. He knows who he is… Reach out to me and let’s make amends.🙏

N50 cards with new JTS Dead Center 25.39 pellets

I ordered some tins (10) of JTS Dead Center 25.39 "shallow cavity" pellets from New England Air Guns.

I went out today to shoot both groups and a couple of N50 cards. I am happier with these vs. the old "Deep Cavity" JSB 25.39 MRDs. Much happier!

I shot the RAW HM1000X .22 HP which actually does shoot the older MRDs very well at 50 yards, but I am going to try these at 100 yards next chance I get with the RAW.

Group Shooting at 50 Yards - Shot eight 5-shot groups primarily with about .527" CTC average ( see attached ). I think if I got a no wind day, these would be much tighter, but can't complain about MOA at 50Y.

N50 Cards - Shot a 228 and a 240 card. First card, I had some difficulty with either my technique/wind, and the score reflected that. The 240 card was close to being a very good card, but we know how that goes!

RAW owners - If you have not tried the JTS Dead Center 25.39 pellets, give them a shot. I feel like the MRD is being reborn.

Tom

IMG_9587.jpg


IMG_9593.jpg

Hatsan  PCP needs repair in less than 24 hours

Have a situation, I purchased a Hatsan BT65SB in 177. The O Rings on the fill probe. Caught and ripped on the sides of the fill port. After a lot of trial and error, I was able to fill the gun off of a tank. That now again, I know that. I will need a compressor strong enough to get past 100 bar. Used my compressor to fill to 200 bar, after 90 min the air tube leaked to 70 bar, and over night there was a snap and the air tube is at 0. This all happened in less than 24 hours with my first PCP. After sending a email and leaving a voice mail with hatsan. There has been no response. Should I just submit the RMA, or wait a week?

P P 750 one shot one kill

Not really hunting but some people get pissed posting dead things on gun site,,,,
Any way this little fart was at my back door and rattling like crazy at my dog, 1st thang I could grab with air in it and a pellet in the magazine was the PP750, One 22 caliber to the head and no more rattling ,, Looks like the wife is going to let me put that gun rack by the back door...
IMG_1919.JPG
IMG_1921.JPG

Air Venturi  Avenger modded up and a sling suggestion

Ok, been taking my time but just about finished:
Buck Rail stock
Trigger mod
AE Swede carbon fiber shroud and shroud retainer ring
Camo paint
I'm struggling trying to figure out what sling to get. I have all the attachments and places on rifle to connect.
The Avenger is longer than a AR I think. I'd like to front carry barrel down or across chest.
Any suggestions?

20230810_081955.jpg


20230810_133834.jpg
  • Like
Reactions: Rvaughn

  • Question
Compressor to get for "lightweight" use

Had a CS3 which I've just returned. Ran 4-5 times. Filled a Gauntlet from 0 to 3000psi. Supposed to get to 4500psi, no matter what, auto shutoff at 3000psi. Could not fill Akela from 2500 to 3000psi. Contacted mfg (no support from Amazon seller), and they wanted me to disassemble (brand new unit) and take a shutoff wire from the gauge to test the gauge. Filled out return info 5 min after that.

So I need something that will handle up to 4500psi (future "growth"). Light use, these are target/plinking/small varmint use - I'm not filling bottles, and not shooting hundreds of shots when I shoot. Shooting once or twice a month.

What can be recommended in the $400-500 range (or less), that will last a few years for this purpose? And, if possible, post links to your suggestion(s)

Benjamin  My Modified Akela .22

Just thought I'd show what I did with my Akela.

Bit of background ... I have a ranch in central Virginia with the typical mix of poultry (chickens, turkeys, guineas, ducks, geese, etc). So in my barn I have bags of feed for them. The nice sheltered conditions in the barn and the feed together ... brings rats. Even if you put the feed in metal cans, you still get rats using it as a place to live, where they like chewing wires on the equipment and other things. They have to be dealt with, and a hot, fast shooting PCP rifle like the Akela is just the tool.

So I bought an Akela .22 PCP to deal with them. If I went with a firearm like a .22LR pistol/rifle, I'd be punching holes in the barn walls and roof, which is not good. With the .22 pellet, it's fast and lethal, but the half the grain weight of a .22LR means no wall/roof thru-n-thru shots. But oh wow do they stop a rat!!

Using the Akela I found the crisscross of wood behind the pistol grip to be in the way. Silly, but often when grabbing to raise it while keeping my eye on a moving rat, I was often grabbing the crisscross and not the pistol grip. The wood crisscross is not needed structurally, and without it if you sling the rifle muzzle down, your shoulder now fits nicely into that open spot since they put the sling mount right in front of it. I found it cleaner and easier to use without it.

Oh and after removing the crisscross and now sanding, I also sanded down the sharp edges in the stock, giving it a more rounded look. Not for everybody, but again it's the fit I liked. I was going to re-stain it, but once you get into this wood, you find this Turkish walnut is NOT north american walnut. It's nice for what its mounted on, but it's nothing to protect and display. So I went all-black. Just my pref...

I tried various optics, but the fast shooting on moving rats in the low-lite barn was better suited for a HALO sight. Big field of view and you can engage with both eyes open. I went with the Holosun 510C HALO (about $300US) and it's great. It has the "motion-detection on/off" feature, so you're not manually turning it on and off. I run it with only the center "finite" red dot, not the dot and circle as most guys do when running a HALO on an AR. The finite dot makes precision rat head shots easy.

In my barn I sit at one end in the evening. That's when the rats get active. I sit behind some boxes with a two very low wattage spot lights (about 15W each) in front of me pointed away at different angles. It gives some light inside the barn and makes it hard for them to see me behind them. I found that anything brighter spooked the rats and fewer would come out. I turn down the brightness on the HALO's red dot to compensate for the low-light conditions and let my eyes adjust, then start watching the rafters. The rats are a challenge! They hardly EVER stop and give me a nice stationary shot. When on the rafters, they stay on the move. To include regular hops to other rafters.

A key thing with this Akela rifle that you have to keep in mind though, is the height of your optic. On a normal hunting rifle the optic's rectical is about 1.5" above the bore. The Akela with it's raised rail and then height of the HALO sight itself, the height of the rectical over the bore is over 2.5". So when making barn-range shots (10-50 feet), the convergence of the bore's line with the visual red dot sight line is intense, and actually opposite what you may be used to if you're a normal outdoor rifle shooter where on distance shots you're compensating for bullet drop. Here, at these ranges there is no appreciable bullet (pellet) drop to worry about, but that convergence of 2.5" bore and sight lines are a dramatic factor. Especially when you want to put the pellet into a 1/2" rat-head kill zone anywhere in the 10-50' barn-rat range!!

I first sighted it at 50', the length of the barn, but found I had to hold the red dot a full 2" below the rat if they were running a rafter only 10-15' away. Wow, that's a lot when it's a moving target and you want to put the pellet in that 1/2" rat-head kill zone.

So what I found for barn-rat shooting using this setup was to sight the HALO in at 25', then if I have a rat in closer (say 10-15'), I hold the red dot 1" high, since the bore line hasn't come up yet to converge/cross the sight line yet. If you don't, it's a full miss on that small rat-head kill zone.

Out past 25', I have to hold under. That's right ... "under". Not "over" as if you're out shooting a rifle at distance and compensating for bullet drop. Here you're still compensating for that high optic's visual line covergence with the bore line. And it's intense for such a high sight and such a small 1/2" rat kill zone. At 40-45' out, I'm holding a full 1" under the rat.

Anyways, hate to bore you folks with all that, but before I went into rat killing here at the ranch, I was a normal rifle distance shooter and always thinking "hold over" if past your sight in range, due to bullet drop. But here I had to ignore all those decades of training and do the opposite ... hold "under" when in the barn and shooting past my sight in 25' point. It's just different. And my sighting at 25' and then holding the 1' over or under before and past it, I found it much simpler than sighting it in at a longer range and then dealing with what could be over 2" hold over before the sight in point. It just hurt my head less.... Since I never use this outside with normal long rifle shots, sighting at 25' was perfect (for me).

Anyways, this rifle shoots fast, flat, and accurate. I can't say that enough. With these mods and the HALO sight using it's single "finite" center dot, it's an awesome barn/rat rifle. And that's with the rats crossing the rafters at a hussle, with their unpredictable "quarter second" stops/pauses, and with their frequent hops from one rafter to the next. It's a challenge. This rifle is great for it. (Fun as heck too!)

Are there others that have modified their Akela? If so, I'd love to see what you did.

IMG_20230517_101041763.jpg

FX  HUMA regulator Gen 3 in FX Crown

Hi everyone,
a time ago I bought from HUMA this regulator for my FX Crown, in version "Low pressure range FX 60-135 Bar (G3)".
When I mounted it to my FX Crown and I set the reg pressure to 65 bar, it started to behave in a very strange way:
- shot (zero time)
- 3 seconds after shot = 50 bar
- 12 seconds after shot = 55 bar
- 2 minutes after shot = 60 bar
- cca 2 hours after shot = 65 bar.......
To be honest, 3 weeks after installation and hundreds test rounds shot, I can't believe that performance of this HUMA reg is such poor. May be it's normal behavior of the reg, I don't know, this is my first experience with Huma regulators, so I can't tell responsibly. Just in comparison with original FX reg, the HUMA reg performance is very poor and unacceptable. Huge creep and unpredictable behavior. Nothing against Huma products at all, just that would be my objective feedback.
O-rings are OK, no further leakage over night. So the creep of something inside HUMA reg would be the problem I believe, because if regulator needs 2 hours for regulation? Come on... BV springs should be also OK, because when I used them in original FX reg, no creep appeared.
At first I thought that I bought a bad piece of the reg, so I contacted HUMA support and described the issue to them. They were so kind that they sent me another reg for free. But believe or not, the behavior of the other one is totaly the same like with the first one :D :D :D I guess it can't be coincidence.
So, at this moment I gave up and I put the orig FX reg back and using my Crown again, just at higher pressure than I wanted to achieve with HUMA reg. But FX reg performance is much more stable and reliable. Sorry saying that HUMA.
Guys, do you have the same or similar experience with HUMA low pressure version of FX Impact/Crown regulator? Or a suggestion what could be wrong and how to fix it?

Advice for a complete beginner

I have zero shooting experience in the last decade and precious little before that.
Shooting airguns seems like fun but just shooting targets from a bench at a range seems like it could get old after a while.
Then I learned about NRL22 and that seemed like it would be a lot of fun.
I am looking to get any advice from anyone who has experience.
My thinking is that to get started I will compete in the NRL22 Base division.
I am not looking to win anything. I want to develop my skills and have fun.
That means my rifle + scope have to have a combined MRSP under $1300.
If I really like this after a year or so, I may choose to move up to another division and a more expensive setup.
I live in San Diego, CA.
I would like to get a PCP rifle. My current thinking is to get a Benjamin Marauder Regulated in .22 caliber.
I am not sure if the Lothar Walther barrel upgrade makes a difference. I also am not sure whether to go with a synthetic or wood stock.
The rifle lists for about $782. Are there better options in this price range?
I have not really begun to select a scope. This would leave me with about $520 MSRP budget for a scope.
Any scope recommendations in this approximate range would be welcome.
I plan to also get a 100 cu ft air tank that I will get filled when needed at a local dive shop.
I guess I will also need a case, ammo, a rest/bag, hearing and eye protection, bipod, and extra magazines.
I am aiming to get everything I need for about $2500, but I have some flexibility.
I am hoping to get gear that is decently accurate, and won't constantly break down.

Filter