I really like this airgun but the other Taipan gets shot more.

Very smooth in every way. Trigger, Cocking. Super well made airgun.


I have about 3 tins of slugs through it.

It really likes JSB Knockout slugs.

Scope not included.

Comes with everything I got it with, including factory box, spare o-rings and pins plus manual not pictured.


It also includes 5 Magazines (comes with two & bought 3 x $47= $141) and a Form brand forest Laminate target grip ($137 shipped) , plus the tiny laminate grip that came on it.

Scope and Pictured picatinny to Arca adapter not included.


No trades.


$1375 Shipped $1200 Split Shipping

PP FF or Buyer payes fees.
Ships same or next day
Good seller rating

Was able to get out with the AEA 357 challenger to get some long range practice in with 150 boat tail from BARS and some 204 flat nose i had kicking around. I also have some chono numbers from the 150gr Bars. IM all ways tethered and yes even when hunting. Starting at 100, 185,230 yards, the 100 and 185 i didn't wait for them to stop swinging. the last pic is what a 204gr slug looks like after contact with 230 yard target. This is why i don't hesitate take shots at coyote at 180 yards with the 357 challenger but i would be using 150gr boat tails from BARS or the ones with steel shot in the hollow point.

The new filter is available, the initial order is limited

Did anyone else purchase a M 50 pump action kit on back order from a company called ammo tec, only to get ripped off when they abruptly took their website off line and disappeared?
Does anyone know how i can get my money back from them? Have they really disappeared, or did they change their name or something? I know its a long shot but was just hoping someone has had the same experience and knows what to do about it.

How quickly we forget that we were all once newbies.

Being retired and finally having time to pursue new things that I want to learn about puts me in the newbie camp regularly so I'm particularly aware of what it takes to broach a new interest.

For whatever reason we decide to get into something new, the first hurdle is to learn the lingo. As a college professor I provided a list of terms relevant to the next lesson as homework and had a "Blue Word" test before class to review them. "Blue Words" are those words that are required to be understood to be able to make sense of the content. In Wikipedia, the blue words are links to definitions and explanations, hence the term.

When someone wants an overview of airguns I recommend they search for " airguns wiki", spend some time reading and comeback with questions.

Maybe us experienced shooters should take a quick look at the wiki to see how much there is to learn just to start - lots of blue words eh? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_gun

By my definition, a newbie is someone who is overwhelmed with details and doesn't know what they don't know. They don't know what questions to ask and can't differentiate between fact and fiction.

Remember that many new airgunners don't have someone to mentor them, they are on their own with only YouTube for guidance.

Newbies are vulnerable to being taken advantage of. The potential of making an expensive mistake is high so they turn to the Airgun Nation community of knowledgeable shooters for help.

So my take is that there's no stupid questions, when someone asks for help, I do my best to figure out what THEY need and make suggestions as to how they can get there.

Remember, as kids how we would slop paint on paper to make our masterpieces to be displayed on the refrigerator? Well, I'm getting into watercolor painting and am learning a whole new set of blue words, fun to be a newbie again!

Guess that my watercolor painting journey is the same as my airgun journey was, started out with BB-guns as a kid and am now into high end PCPs.

Please show patience with newbies, we were all there once.

Cheers!

With the crazy egg prices right now my daughter and I decided to do something a little different for Easter eggs this year. I got out some scrap steel and the plasma cutter and welder and she is the artist with the paint. I painted some too but the good ones are hers . We’re going to shoot them tomorrow and then we’ll paint them again next year. Here are a few photos to show the progression of our project. I started with a cardboard egg as a template and most of the steel is .125”.
Kenny

Anyone know where I can find some scoring plugs? I’ve looked all over

.22 / .35 cal

.30 / .35 cal

The last two days I broke out my competition rifle, Skout Epoch .25 cal to do a little fine tuning at 100 yds. Well, for two days in a row it put up literally the best targets I've shot with this gun. Granted this is an indoor range, but for me, these scores are excellent even though they're not demonstrative of "real world" results.

.25 Epoch @ 28" SubMOA barrel
AEA 33.9gr Center Punch pellets

This came with a 1.5L tank I bought recently, I only wanted the tank. New, never attached or filled it.

$50 shipped PayPal, Venmo, or Zelle.

Hey guys what is considered the barrel length in the Airgun Industry?
I always thought it was the part that was rifled. Does a shroud that is 5" longer than the actual rifled barrel count as barrel length , and what does 1/2 the threaded adapter have to with it?
My Guantlet I just bought needed to be cleaned of the factory pasty stuff in the barrel , so I pulled the 1/2 by 20 adapter off , and the 4 plastic baffles , and the spring. Then the shroud , and I measured the rifled part I call the barrel.
It was 23 1/2 inches long not the 28 1/4 I thought it was.
Now then I put the shroud back on without the baffles " Pellet Clippers" I call them , and the spring. I measured the 281/4" which was from the breach to the middle of the thread adapter. Ok am I wrong that the barrel is the rifled metal part , or does the shroud count as part of the barrel in the Umarex airgun Industry. OldVet wants to know.

Decision Tool for "What gun should I buy?" ​

When...​

...someone pops THE question:
"What gun should I buy?"

Then...​

...here are some questions that will help answer THE question.
(The focus is on PCPs, though some of this also works for springers.)


➠ Naturally, some gun characteristics will be more costly or are harder to find. The tool below will help you narrow down what is truly important for you and to develop compromises.

➠ Feel free to assign levels of importance, with X or ★, e.g.:
★★★ = indispensible
★★ = important
★ = nice but not needed




How much money are you planning to spend?
(Did you consider a scope? And a source of high pressure air — pump, tank, or compressor?)
(Have you evaluated the risk of having to sleep in the dog house for a few nights? )




Do you want a gun made in USA?
➠ Then look for a short list of brands (list below), with even fewer models available.¹




Are you so enarmored with very high quality — that you are willing to pay the price?
➠ Then look for brands that are made other than in Turkey or China (except Huben).




Do you really like a certain style of gun — long rifle, bullpup, pistol, tactical stock, traditional stock, gaudy colored stock?
➠ Good news! There is a gun for every fancy.




Do you want semi-auto or full-auto?
➠ Their fun factor is undeniable, however their practical use is very limited.
And the number of available models is extremely small.
(Almost all PCPs have multi-shot magazines.)




Do you want to shoot your gun at longer ranges (80y+), or do precision shooting (competitions)?
➠ Then look for guns than have a regulator.²
➠ And look for guns of higher quality.




Do you want to shoot slugs?
(Slugs are affected a lot less by wind drift, which plagues airgunners much more than powder burners. They carry more power downrange for larger quarry. And they are the way to go for shooting out to 100y and beyond.)
➠ Then look for:
● Guns that have a unchoked barrel.³
● Or guns that offer barrels or barrel liners that can be changed to one that works with slugs.




Do you want to be able to change the caliber⁴ of your gun, or the length of your barrel?
➠ Then look for brands and models that allow that, and there are rather few that do, usually the pricier models.




Do you plan to lug your gun around for hours (walking hunts)?
➠ Then look for a lighter rifle, 6 ½ lbs (3.0kg) or less.
● Pistols⁵ are a lot lighter, of course
● Bullpups, compact models, and synthetic stocks save some weight, usually
● If the gun has an air bottle, it should not be of aluminum, but carbon fiber




Do you like/need short guns?
(Maybe to pack it easily, or for airline travel, or to conceal it easily, or to shoot from a vehicle?)
➠ Then look for, in this order:
● Pistols⁵
● Bullpups
● FSRs (folding stock rifles)
● Compact models of bullpups and long rifles ["compact" meaning they come with a shorter barrel, usually under 500mm, making them less powerful and/or louder — but not less precise]




Do you plan to use your gun as a tool (instead of babying it, or only using it in controlled environments like your porch or at competitions)?
➠ Then look for:
● Guns that will not change their point of impact when the barrel/shroud hits a branch, or comes out of your backpack (many FX guns are said to be somewhat sensitive...).
● Synthetic stocks rather than wood or lamiante
● Higher priced guns usually are higher quality and thus more robust




Do you like to make power adjustments to your gun?
(Because you want to adapt it to different weight ammo, or because you like to tinker)?
➠ Then look for guns that allow for the external adjustment of both the regulator⁶ and the hammer spring.




Do you need a high shot count⁷?
➠ Then look for guns with a bottle as air reservoir.
Usually, the shorter guns (compacts, pistols) have less air.
➠ Look for guns with an air reservoir rated for higher pressure (at least 250bar = 3600psi).
(Of course, carrying a small 1L or 2L air bottle as reserve in a backpack solves the need for air, and makes the gun lighter.)




"What caliber should I buy?"
➠ That is a whole discussion by itself....





FOOTNOTES:

¹Made in the USA:
The first three economical, the latter not:
▪Benjamin
▪Crosman (some models)
▪Umarex USA (some models)
▪American Air Arms
▪SKOUT
▪Western Airguns (auto and/or big bore)
▪RAW (Rapid Air Worx)
▪AirForce Air Guns (high power)
▪Serpent Arms (high power, and shotguns)
▪Quackenbush Air Guns (custom big bore, now retired)
▪XP-Airguns (custom big bore)
▪Thomas Air (top competition guns)


²Regulator:
Most guns nowadays come with a regulator, but certain brands (Hatsan, Kral) and some less pricey models do not. However, almost all can be fitted with an aftermarket regulator for $100 (Huma, Altaros, Lane).


³Unchoked barrel:
That limits the options to very few brands, and usually the pricier models.
With some luck many guns with choked barrels seem to shoot slugs with mediocre precision at shorter ranges, say 50y.
Also, slugs usually require significantly higher power than pellets.


⁴Models that allow changing the caliber:
Going by what airgun forum members have reported: Once a gun is all set up and dialed in, power, ammo, scope, etc. — users are hesitant to change all that and start over, just to shoot a different caliber. The caliber change option might be one that many pay for, but few actually exercise.


⁵Pistols:
Pistols are rare: for every pistol model there must be at least 10 rifle models on the market. Pistols have significantly less power (e.g.: a typical .22cal rifle has 30FPE, a typical pistol has half of that, though there are exceptions [Huben GK1]). And they have a smaller shot count due to their smaller air reservoir.


⁶Guns with external power adjustments:
▪Most PCP's can be adjusted internally, i.e., when disassembled — something that requires time, patience, tools, and some mechanical skills (Youtube offers some instructionals).
▪Many PCPs allow the external adjustment of the hammer spring — "external" meaning no disassembly required.
▪Some PCPs allow the external adjustment of both hammer spring and regulator. Some even add valve adjustment. These are usually the pricier models.
▪Most "power adjusters" and economical guns (e.g., Hatsan) only limit the transfer port to reduce the air going into the barrel, but this reduction does not increase shot count.


⁷A typical shot count for a typical gun with typical characteristics:
40 to 50 shots — with a .22cal air rifle, with a 250cc air reservoir, rated at 250bar, at 30FPE of power.
Larger calibers use more air.




Cheers,

Matthias



PS: @Moderator2
Would this post be valuable if placed in the "How to airgun stuff" sub-forum?

Got this from AOA for $75. Can't beat that. At first I could not get it close to zero, maxed out the turrets at ten yards, and was 3 inches high and 4 inches left. Removed the 3D printed moderator and she dialed in. Got a couple of 6 round mags and a aluminum moderator from Wes at Airgun Archery Fun. Two really good products. The moderator is direct fit, m10 x 1 threads. $34. Mags were $20 each. I put in a 8mm bushing (5/16") to pre-load the hammer spring for a bit more power. A nylon bolt of the correct diameter cut to length would work great. After adjusting the trigger, I mounted a 1-8 LPVO Riton . Going to switch to my Hawke Frontier 1-6 LPVO. Gotta love a $750 scope on a $75 pellet gun. Trigger adjustment is super easy . See YouTube. Seat the screw flush, back out 2 full turns. I also adjusted the first stage for no take up. The cheek riser is a block of ridged foam taped to the stock. Kinda ghetto but functional. Accuracy is impressive for a CO2 pistol. Tried 11 pellets and the RWS Super dome and the AEA 18.3 were easily the top 2. AEA WAS THE BEST. As usual. The AEA dead on at 10 yards is low 1/4" at 25yds. I don't shoot squirrels, but if I did, I'd be confident to 40 yds. At 4lbs this is a great walk around hunter. Rabbits at 35yds should be no problem. Head shots, please. I chose the Diana Chaser over the Crosman because of the magazine option. Thanks for looking. Get one, their fun, fun, fun. Cheers , Bill and Addi.

I just had a situation today, testing my tune development @ longer range.
I am sure that I locked my rest for the bubble level, integrated into the scope mount (ARC M10-L) - and double checked with my reading glasses, and put the glasses aside...
Dark sky, raining, realized already late that the Bench top plate was throwing my rest around - of course the bubble level.
I have a full drawer of traditional spirit levels, bigger smaller faster slower, but like today... dark sky, raining, I am looking through the scope no reading glasses to watch the bubble under the scope on the mount ... I did not notice on time my error.

I will be looking now for those electronic gizmos that flashes or changing colour or beeps or I don't care how to warn me for canting error.
Anybody - especially from PRS guys, any positive feedback on these electronics?
I see more models available lately.

ZHD520 - ZULUS HD 5-20X Digital Night Vision Scope - Brand New *PRICED TO SELL*​

New Never mounted.

$300 shipped lower 48.
Zelle preferred for payment.

This is not the ZHD520R model.

It Came in my .22 caliber Guantlet 2 SL. The tank is loose in the box , so to tighten it down the foster is facing down , and the guage up.
Is there a way to adjust the clocking on the tank. I bought this to have something to shoot while I was moding my Zelos , but I'm already needing help , and have to work on it. OldVet needs help please. Thanks.

This is the latest version of the EVOL .30 sporting the SUB MOA barrel, has the new externally adjustable regulator as well.

Is in as new condition from AOA, includes one magazine as well as the end cap adapter for a moderator.

Shooting the 44.75 variants right at 900.

I bought this when they were first announced and has been sitting boxed up since I received it from AOA.

Threw a scope on it last night and got a few shots in just to test and is all they say it is, absolutely phenomenal. I am just not a tactical guy so wanting this to go to a good home.

Scope, rings, Atlas bipod, moderator not included.

Trade for other PCP airguns in .30/.22

My pump arrived Monday the 14th a day earlier than tracking initially showed. After reading numerous threads about first start up I decided I wanted an hour meter on mine. Also wanted to feed it from a nitrogen tank. The hour meter arrived Wednesday and was installed that evening. The fittings for converting to a nitrogen feed arrived 8:30 PM yesterday and were installed this afternoon. I need a hose barb fitting for my nitrogen regulator and will pick that up tomorrow at HD hopefully.

Filled the water reservoir with Dexcool 50/50 because that is what I had on hand. Ran the pump to check for leaks and purge any air out of the cooling system. Hooked up the supplied hose with the deadhead installed. Opened the bleed valve and turned the pump on. Watching the pressure gauge with anticipation and nothing. Oh no, I hope I did not break something doing the mods. Then it dawns on me, close the bleed valve. Whew, was that close to ruining a Friday afternoon in the shop.

So far it looks real good. 32~34 seconds to fill the line to 400 bar with the deadhead installed.

I bought an analog hour meter rather than digital just because. The hour meter would not fit on the front panel but would fit in the top or back. I chose the back only so I would not have to unplug wires to remove the case. The air filter hooked up to the bulkhead barb fitting will be replaced with a nitrogen feed tube when I get the regulator fitting needed.

How much do you guys fill the water reservoir? With no expansion tank like a car has on its cooling system there should be some space left when filling? How will I know if the cooling system water pump fails?

Thinking I would like to add a digital thermometer with a settable alarm if such a device exists in a panel mount package. Suggestions?

Biggest day ever! Charles

We often see questions regarding advice for a gun, scope, compressor, or other equipment, but often the criteria isn't clear.

What questions should one ask, and information should one include in an inquiry?

Asking something like, "What would be a good air gun for me to buy?", seems more likely to receive bad/inaccurate answers than correct ones.

A kid's first pellet gun for indoors target shooting is a very different question than what 35 cal PCP is best for commercial hog culling from helicopter.

Can we construct a questionairre for air gun, scope/sight, and compressor selection, that can help in streamlining selection and avoiding going down the wrong road?

One of the things that we take pride in here at Karma Airguns is to always be pushing our products forward and getting those performance improvements to our users as quickly as possible. So as soon as we found this performance improvement, we wanted to get it out to the airgunner community right away.

This quick trigger upgrade is both easy to do, and we are making this as a FREE rolling improvement upgrade for any Karma EQ owner who purchased one of our airguns before April 17th, 2025.

Request a FREE Upgrade kit here: https://karmaairguns.com/pages/contact
All Karma EQs are shipping to dealers with this upgrade already installed from that date forward.

I’m actually very much on the fence as to whether I want to sell this one or not. Bought it on a whim because I wanted to try the DRS and didn’t disappoint. The only reason I’m considering letting it go is its look. It’s getting spring/summer so I’ll move to shooting outside again (as opposed to out of the basement window). Neighbors who could potentially see me are cool with my shooting and at least 200ft away anyway but not sure whether I want to sit out there with an AR lookalike… I set it up for 18gr at 895 and have about 500 shots through it I guess. Now here’s the reason why I really struggle with letting it go (shot the string and 5 shot groups at 45y a couple of hours ago for this add and got even more on the fence after… 6-7mph wind):











Granted, the true one hole group doesn’t happen every time but the other one is representative for the gun with AEA 18gr and the dime does not only cover the ragged hole but the splatter as well (and then some). Took it out to 70 in the past, similar results, 1/2 inch groups absolutely doable and repeatable. You get about 5-6 mags out of it at that time (that’s 65-75 shots!).

MATH WAS OFF, PRICE ADJUSTED: $1080 1030 shipped CONUS with the hogue stock, $1000 950 with the one it comes with. Scope, rings and bipod not included. All other OEM stuff it comes with included. I know used is used but this thing is exceptional so 15-20%ish discount over new (not considering tax), out of stock and who knows tariff impact seems fair. If it doesn’t sell I’ll keep it happily and call it destiny

I respect the gunsmiths who build custom benchrest rifles such as Mr. Niksch, Mr. Piatt, and Mr. Langley.

I own their rifles, know their quality and cherish their precision.

I enjoy my two M3s. When shot from a bipod and my shoulder they are a fantastic rifle to shoot.

My 30 cal M3, I purchased used and it shot okay.

Sent it to Mr. Buck, owner of Cape Fear AG LLC, and requested he refurbish it and tune it for 60 yard accuracy.

The rifle went to him like this:


Came back like this:


I was very impressed yesterday with how accurate this rifle is at 60 yards with wind speed from 10 to 14 mph gusting 16 to 24 out of the W, WNW with a less than "Sharp Shooter" grade ground to trigger interface!

The changes to the trigger made by Mr. Buck made the first stage crisp and the second stage snap like a very, very thin glass needle. I could take in the first stage, hold for the correct wind-breath-target-POA and just think squeeze and the shot was sent. This trigger tune is very, very consistent.

The plenum pressure, air valve, macro and micro settings for a 600 mm barrel launching 45 grain diabolos 60 yards is spot on!

Mr. Buck is one hell of a good gunsmith!

Wish I could shoot to the high level his workmanship deserves.

Brand New, never fired a shot.
King Base .22 Cal 600mm
Saber Tactical FX King Chassis - Grey ST0079
Asking for $2,200 with free shipping CONUS only
Feel free to call or text (925) 237-1203

I’ve been busting on my vet 2 this whole time for being heavy, but after removing the scope (which came already in it), it’s much much lighter. Got me thinking. I’d definitely keep it if I could find a replacement that was lighter, but I’m not spending the same on the scope as I spend on the rifle. What’s out there for budget lightweight scopes that are ffp?

Thanks in advance.