Normkel said:

Do you agree that the puzzle piece that is missing is that we need to be open to being corrected and to calling out what appears to be invalid?

IMO, having people agree with me isn't of much value because I proceed on the basis that I am correct. Having people describe and justify how they disagree with me is very valuable because that demonstrates how I can change/improve.

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No problem there. Evidence is the important factor. D-K research identified several causation and one was that people refuse to accept contrary evidence once they believe something.

As my father taught me, you do not learn from success. Being wrong and accepting the correction falls into the same category.

jps2486 said:

I always thought the HW35 was an ugly duckling and I never could develop any interest in it. But after reading a number of posts on this and other forums by many that swear allegiance to this rifle, I had to see for myself. I recently bought one on sale in .177 caliber on AOA and have spent many enjoyable hours testing it in my 10M basement range. It shot great right out of the box with no twang or any other bad habits both with the factory iron sights and now with an Optisan CP scope perched on top. I've owned HW97Ks, HW95s, R9, R7s, R8s, but this one has become my favorite. Despite it's quirky looking stock and front lockup lever, this is truly a great rifle and I can understand why it's been in production since 1951. It's comfortable to shoot, not pellet picky and accurate. I'm in the process of shooting 20 5 shot groups with different pellets with this and my other rifles to see which is the king. Next up is my TX200.

View attachment 581632
Shot at 10M with iron sights
View attachment 581633
Shot at 10M with Optisan CP 4-16 scope

View attachment 581635

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I too for whatever reason resisted pushing the button on my now favorite hw35 in .177. I've shot with the stock open sights but only recently installed a peep sight.

MrP said:

I live in a small rural town and the for profit shipping carriers want nothing to do with serving us, we need USPS. If anybody expects that millions of people can be shipping things every day without occasional mishaps they are delusional.

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My brother lives 12 miles from Eugene, OR. It is a battle to ship anything there commercial without paying the exorbitant extra cost options. 2-3 day delays are common. Scheduled to arrive between X and Y and shows up 3 days later.

Ship it USPS it shows up in a reasonable amount of time.

maxtrouble said:

Looks good! How did you get the cuts so neat?

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I mean this is what my office looks like so yeah lol that’s how so neat lol.

I found this place to be cheaper

Jts 18.8g wadcutters fly amazing. Has anyone shot the barras? Are they accurate to 50yds?

Hateful McNasty said:

1770's hw ... Thats pretty darn vintage as it gets .,

If you can find a tig welder thats capable of this he could fill in that easy ..

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That's insane! I wouldn't have believed it had I not seen it.

maxtrouble said:

Looks good! How did you get the cuts so neat?

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If I told you, you would owe me a finger lol. Nah just messing so when I comes to stuff like this and building stuff I have a very bad OCD problem. Measure twice cut once problem. I set everything out how I wanted and used a bread knife. Took me roughly 45 minutes because, well, OCD lol. I try to always make things better and easier.

Ratzy said:

I've been referencing the D-K research for years.

My other favorite is pointing out that 50% of the population is below median intelligence. And then have someone claim that isn't true.

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Do you agree that the puzzle piece that is missing is that we need to be open to being corrected and to calling out what appears to be invalid?

IMO, having people agree with me isn't of much value because I proceed on the basis that I am correct. Having people describe and justify how they disagree with me is very valuable because that demonstrates how I can change/improve.

Here's what I do:
1) Measure the ambient humidity using my lab hygrometer and or humidity gauge.

2) fill a bottle, tank, reservoir from the pump/compressor.

3) vent the bottle, tank, reservoir slowly, into a void such as a plastic bag

4) after a short interval, sufficient to purge ambient air from the bag, I use the same instrument to measure the humidity in the bag


Ambient humidity is typically 50%+ in this area, confirmed by weather data and several instruments. I measure less than 10% humidity from my compressed air, which I cannot imagine is a problem. Industry standards describe 10% as in the "very dry" range for metal storage.

In addition, I have found no evidence of liquid water, or corrosion in any part of my tanks, bottles, regulators, guns, etc.

I am confused by the apparent focus on water while no one describes their procedure for ascertaing the content of problem.

@ max, welcome to the forum. I have the compact performance in .177. Absolutely amazing little package. The external adjustable reg is nice to adjust on the fly. Mine set up as slug gun. Starlings @ 100 yds no problem. The prophet 3 is just an upgrade from original. You will be happy with either.

Huben GK1 V3 surprised me

Normkel said:

People often exhibit the effect to a great degree when referencing it, but if one reflects, The Dunning Kruger Effect does explain much human behavior.

View attachment 581936

It would be interesting to hear why people do post. I believe that I post with the intention to try to help someone with reason and evidence.

One additional motivation is that I perceive many competent and informed members who I hope will correct where I am wrong.

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I've been referencing the D-K research for years.

My other favorite is pointing out that 50% of the population is below median intelligence. And then have someone claim that isn't true.

Any hints on the technique and method of grinding the pad appreciated, please
Thanks
Edward

I traded my Micro in 2024 because I wanted more power and greater shot count. At the time the Mini came with a 200cc aluminum bottle. It was hella accurate at close range.


I still have a .22 Mini HM1000x and a .22 HM1000x long. The long was produced about 2 years ago, the Mini produced within the last year. Both are very reliable, built like tanks, and very accurate. I shoot slugs out of my long out to +/- 150 yards, and pellets out of my mini out to 75 yards, both with extreme precision.

Here‘s a pic of my Mini with the LRT stock



Though I prefer the chassis and options


*The Stud Mag Loader magazines are the only way to go with this platform!

Ratzy said:

Or just never want to hand pump, EVER, and keep a 2nd compressor as a backup.

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I started out hand pumping a Diana Stormrider .22, and added a QB79 with bottle conversion. I'm over 75 and can hand pump while talking on the phone, but it became old when spending 6 hours of shooting, at our weekly range days. My compressor runs something like 1/2 the time, GX CS3, and I have a CS1 clone as backup.

I wish that I had had the opportunity to spend some time with another PCP shooter as it would have saved me the Yong Heng and SCBA tank journey. Of course, the next person will arrive at an equally satisfactory and opposite conclusion. Unfortunately, IMO people often don't describe their type of shooting and other criteria.

xsarfc9x said:

The Falcons are amazing. Probably will never get another production PCP with all high gloss blued steel actions again. Machine work was also excellent on them.

Bowkett's designs were great if a little over complicated/novel at times. Not sure there will be another designer that was as prolific and carried like him again.

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Bowkett and Hartley were amazing together. I've read Hartley was *difficult* at times but Bowkett, last I heard, had finally fully retired and stopped working on *his* guns. That was a few years ago.

Hartley stock and a Bowkett tuned or designed gun, sublime.

katonahjohn said:

Old and fat (G). 74 YOA and the idea of a hand pump filling a larger tank gives me second thoughts.. I would like to make it to at least 75 without a heart attack/stroke..

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I decided that at 60 (69 now) when a friend bought a Hatsan pcp and a hand pump. I was "I will just stick to break barrel". Then I found out there were compressors for around $100. I have 1 break barrel left and that is permanently loaned to a neighbor.

People often exhibit the effect to a great degree when referencing it, but if one reflects, The Dunning Kruger Effect does explain much human behavior.



It would be interesting to hear why people do post. I believe that I post with the intention to try to help someone with reason and evidence.

One additional motivation is that I perceive many competent and informed members who I hope will correct where I am wrong.

JimD said:

I have not tried it but I am confident it will work. I have a 100 amp hour lithium phosphate battery on my smaller boat for the trolling motor. Fully charged it puts out 14 volts. But car alternators put out 14V too. So the compressor can take it but I don't know if a steady diet of 14V will affect the compressor.

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DC motor current draw decreases with RPM, which is why they have their highest armature torque at zero RPM. Many will recall that it was common practice to convert 6 volt tractors and vehicles to 12 volt, but no need to make changes to the starting motor. In fact, 6 volt starters (starting motors) last much longer when powered by 12 volt.

There is much confusion regarding motor loads because most people consider an electric motor to be a DC resistance load, ignoring the switching effect of brushes and commutator.

Many will also recall that a failing battery typically results in destroying the starting motor, because of the low voltage, low motor RPM = high current issue.

In my (70) years of starting systems & DC motor experience, I have no concern with operating my small compressors off 14 volts versus 12 volts, but great reluctance to operate them from lower voltage sources.

Another factor that is often ignored is the operating voltage question. A "12 volt" or "14 volt" battery is only providing that voltage at a low, or zero current (amps) flow. When powering a load, especially a significant load such as the compressor or starting motor, the battery voltage will be pulled down, often much lower.

The industry standard minimum voltage for 12 volt starting motors, applicable to other DC motors IMO, is 9.6 volts. If a "12 volt" DC motor is operating at a supply voltage below 9.6 volts, that is asking for trouble.

I would be grateful to learn how much the 100 amp LI battery voltage is pulled down by the load of your compressor. It the battery is capable of powering a trolling motor for extended periods, I expect it will be more than satisfactory for your compressor. A voltage measurement of battery voltage with compressor operating will tell the tale. By the way, batteries can be damaged by too high a current flow (draw) so I would be more concerned about battery damage than motor damage.

It is not worth trying to measure it, because in terms of relative humidity it will be very high - 100% without a molecular sieve filter (by definition, more in a moment), and probably well over 80% at best with a small size one, and probably to about 70% or so with a bigger one. While that sounds like the filter is not doing a lot, the key is that it is drying the air enough to get it below the condensation point with either one.

I've written a lot about this and will link to more detailed info if you want it, but the key is that when air is compressed, the ability to hold moisture as vapor is reduced - so water comes out as liquid, and what remains is as a vapor. The condensation occurs because the air charge's temperature becomes the dewpoint for those pressurized conditions, so what is left is the vapor that "does not need" to condense out, leaving you with 100% humidity air, but no further condensation. The desiccants don't remove that much more in practice, but the amount they remove becomes critical if the air charge is hot as it leaves the pump and will cool down later - which is the case with powered compressors.

With a hand pump, if you do like @beerthief says and pump slowly then you won't have an issue - because if you pump at a rate of about one stoke every three seconds or slower, the compressed air charge will cool down in the base of the pump (as they are designed to achieve) and the condensation will occur there and not in your gun. Of course along with slow pumping, you have to keep your sessions short in terms of the number of strokes too, as each one adds heat to the base. So go slow, and keep the count under around 50 strokes or so - when you hit about 50 strokes, stop and vent the line and then let the pump cool for 10-15 minutes before resuming. This will keep moisture out of your gun regardless of how humid the air is where you are pumping.

This is why I made a point of using my guns such that I did not need to refill with more than about 50 stokes (after a few to charge the line some) back when I used to use a handpump - my shot count was defined by that parameter, unless I wanted to have my shooting impacted by waiting for the pump to cool.

Here is more on the physics of moisture in air. if you are interested. https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/moisture-in-pcp-airguns.1321274/page-2#post-1839770