FX dreamline hammer spring tunning

May have to pull the transfer port and make sure the holes match up with the numbers on the dial. Some have reported that the transfer port holes got misaligned and you could be on a smaller hole and not know it. Also pull the barrel and see what transfer port is on the brass barrel attachment. Some are a single hole and some are a split larger hole.
 
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I usually start at max on the dial and then turn in the small adjustment screw till I get about 30-40 fps faster than I want my final velocity to be. I then back off the dial to get my final velocity.
I dont have a target fps or fpe other than max.
im going to try again today by turning the screw ccw to, say 700 fps, then come up from there (cw) a half turn or so at a time until fps drops off, then a quarter turn back to best fps. thanks for your adVice
 
I dont have a target fps or fpe other than max.
im going to try again today by turning the screw ccw to, say 700 fps, then come up from there (cw) a half turn or so at a time until fps drops off, then a quarter turn back to best fps. thanks for your adVice
You can't just crank the wheel to max and bottom out the Internal 1.5mm Screw. you'll end up past the knee and losing power.

With the dreamline it's best do do a work up so you don't accidentally start already at the plateau.
I'd back out the internal screw that little 1.5mm screw with the slider. almost all the way and set your wheel to the MAX position, I had the 23 position wheel so not sure of the MAX point for the old wheel. Anyway, if you're at 130, just start going up incrementally from all the way backed out on the internal when you're set to the Maximum PW position. Put your TP on MAX or HIGH or 25/30 whichever you have, then when your velocity starts reaching the 860-870's region with 18.1's start moving up in smaller increments, like 1/8th turns. You'll find that at a certain point your velocity might not increase, might start to even drop, but I would imagine at 130 with .22 if you're on the bridged tp side of the breech (if you have the newer gen fx Breech TP with the round pellet port and bridged Power/slug port) You should find yourself well over 900 with 18.1 pellets, Once you reach the point where the velocity will go no higher you're at max for that pressure. If you've reached the point where your internal screw bottoms out and binds and your velocity hasn't reached plateau or dropped, you're maxxed period. It's not good to cock the gun and shoot with the wheel and internal maxed and binding. That tells you you'll need a heavier hammer and higher tension spring.

More plenum, more hammer, more spring, wider ports. Those are your options for more power if whatever you find your max to be isn't enough.

my stock .25 configuration 55fpe with 34gr mk2 heavies was the absolute limit and i hit that at 133bar, no internal to go, any additional reg and the velocity dropped, without any further internal adjustment left, couldn't compensate for higher.

Added 30cc of plenum, the huma spring, and mid weight hammer... ended up maxed out at 65. By the time i got rid of that i had removed all the upgrades other than the spring, just didn't need more than 50fpe.
 
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May have to pull the transfer port and make sure the holes match up with the numbers on the dial. Some have reported that the transfer port holes got misaligned and you could be on a smaller hole and not know it. Also pull the barrel and see what transfer port is on the brass barrel attachment. Some are a single hole and some are a split larger hole.
On that too. Soons i get out to the barn.
 
Ok, on it! Many thanks
Yeah, the dreamline is an awesome gun to learn the finer points of perfecting a tune on. with a .25 @ relatively high power i was still pulling 90+ shots per 500cc fill. 52 per 290cc tube. You'll get it mastered, 118-130 are good pressures for the dreamline with mid 20's gr projectiles.
 
I find vetmx asking about how far i have to turn the wheel down to get 800. I cant get much more than that at Max on the wheel.
You are experiencing tunnel vision. You keep looking at max this and max that. By seeing what your chronograph says at Max, 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1 will tell us some other things. The little screw you seem to be focused on has a purpose but also more importantly a method of use. When you set your reg and that screw is backed way off, you turn your wheel to Max. Then you work that screw up until you hit your max speed for that reg setting. Once Max on the wheel is true max for the reg setting, you dial the hammer wheel to 5, 4 or three to find the sweet spot. If it isn’t fast enough then you turn your reg up and go back to Max on the wheel and work your way back up to your new max speed with the screw. The bottom line and to make your life as simple as possible is Max on your wheel should always be right at the max for your reg pressure. Never more. Because we can’t tune up with the hammer, we always tune down because it actually does something.

You could have a flow problem. That’s too small of a transfer port screwed onto the barrel. Or your transfer port wheel is jacked up. Or your gun could have a .22 hammer in it and you just don’t have enough weight that a longer barreled .25 requires. You’ll know that when no matter how much you turn up the reg, your speed doesn’t get faster.
 
You are experiencing tunnel vision. You keep looking at max this and max that. By seeing what your chronograph says at Max, 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1 will tell us some other things. The little screw you seem to be focused on has a purpose but also more importantly a method of use. When you set your reg and that screw is backed way off, you turn your wheel to Max. Then you work that screw up until you hit your max speed for that reg setting. Once Max on the wheel is true max for the reg setting, you dial the hammer wheel to 5, 4 or three to find the sweet spot. If it isn’t fast enough then you turn your reg up and go back to Max on the wheel and work your way back up to your new max speed with the screw. The bottom line and to make your life as simple as possible is Max on your wheel should always be right at the max for your reg pressure. Never more. Because we can’t tune up with the hammer, we always tune down because it actually does something.

You could have a flow problem. That’s too small of a transfer port screwed onto the barrel. Or your transfer port wheel is jacked up. Or your gun could have a .22 hammer in it and you just don’t have enough weight that a longer barreled .25 requires. You’ll know that when no matter how much you turn up the reg, your speed doesn’t get faster.
You are experiencing tunnel vision. You keep looking at max this and max that. By seeing what your chronograph says at Max, 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1 will tell us some other things. The little screw you seem to be focused on has a purpose but also more importantly a method of use. When you set your reg and that screw is backed way off, you turn your wheel to Max. Then you work that screw up until you hit your max speed for that reg setting. Once Max on the wheel is true max for the reg setting, you dial the hammer wheel to 5, 4 or three to find the sweet spot. If it isn’t fast enough then you turn your reg up and go back to Max on the wheel and work your way back up to your new max speed with the screw. The bottom line and to make your life as simple as possible is Max on your wheel should always be right at the max for your reg pressure. Never more. Because we can’t tune up with the hammer, we always tune down because it actually does something.

You could have a flow problem. That’s too small of a transfer port screwed onto the barrel. Or your transfer port wheel is jacked up. Or your gun could have a .22 hammer in it and you just don’t have enough weight that a longer barreled .25 requires. You’ll know that when no matter how much you turn up the reg, your speed doesn’t get faster.
So, i THINK something might be fubarred. Her’s why; i can back that little screw out to where the fps is 750 or so. Then turning that screw in to full stop makes very little diff in shot string fps. Best i can get out of it is abou 812 (I really would like it to be shooting at its best most powerful, and i hear folks talkin about near 900 on theirs). Im reluctant to tear in to it to take the flip stock off and try adjusting from the butt. More to the story; i shot it too below reg press and broke the “rod” (they tell me) so sent it to utah and they repaired It. Didnt have a chronie when it came back so was just goin with reg pressure, it was/is accurate and kills squirrels ok. Head and dead center mass best of course. But close enuff isnt. By the way, i dunno if its normal but when i back that screw out to 790 or so the screw’s “housing block” is really loose in its “race?”. I relly do appreciate all yalls input and I can live with back at 810 or so at least until i feel like spending more money on it. If it is the “flow” problem or jacked up wheel im rlictant to dig in to those too absent some diagrams and “training”. Any body know if fx does training classes? Thanks guys, all the best
 
I will tho experimentq with tuning up the reg 5psi at a time but i hate losing shot count. I know its a trade off but…
Don’t turn the reg up. Your gun can’t keep up with 130b as it is. If your gun has this TP wheel, check your speeds at the different settings and let us know. Mine has a very subtle feel when I turn the wheel to each setting. But they all do what they are supposed to do.
 
I will tho experimentq with tuning up the reg 5psi at a time but i hate losing shot count. I know its a trade off but…
A .25 can hit 900 at 100b. It won’t be very efficient, but it can. You have a.22 while I’ve only had crown.DRS, maverick in .22 you should be able to get goal velocity much lower than 130, which is about where you max out with the stock dreamline configuration.
 
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Don’t turn the reg up. Your gun can’t keep up with 130b as it is. If your gun has this TP wheel, check your speeds at the different settings and let us know. Mine has a very subtle feel when I turn the wheel to each setting. But they all do what they are supposed to do.
Thanks, i will post some shot strings. Generally, at MAX on the power wheel (i keep the front wheel on Max) any adjustments to the fine tune “leetle” screw will take fps from 750-812 at maxscrew in.