Saber, tactical cheek riser also bag, rider both for 100 Tyd paypal only

So I currently have the Impact M3 in .30 and absolutely love it, but have decided that this is going to be my gun that really does not have to be toted around.
So my question to those of you in the know is if you wanted a gun that you could walk the woods with hunting squirrel and the likes in the .22 bottle version which of the 2 mentioned would you choose and for what reasons? I'm really leaning towards the Wildcat mklll sniper but would like to hear your opinions both educated and just personal preference.
Thanks for your time,
O_H

So I always use these Tnuts and I had to trim them, I had to shorten the spikes, and had to heat the plastic lmao I am keeping this brief because I don't feel like typing much but I got creative :

Anyways

The one on the bipod is my .25 I will be using for the bench rest competition at North East Airgun Classic hence the redonkulous sized scope on it.

The one on the tripod is my .22 rat and pigeon gun.

Nothing like 1 huben , definitely nothing like 2

I pulled this stock off an R1 I recently picked up. Someone refinished it at some point, but it's in pretty clean shape otherwise. Old style with the palm swell and hand cut checkering. Has steel screw cups. No screws included.

If you want it, come pick it up. I'm not shipping it, I'm not driving 30 miles to meet, and I'll throw it away if no one wants it.

Decatur/Huntsville AL area.

Just had Tom at High Pressure Pneumatics install an Air Marksman 700cc tank on my HM1000x 25 cal. With all the air this rifles puffs down the tube, it needed a larger tank for higher shot count. I'm thinking it's almost unrecognizable now.

Hello everyone,

I had ordered 8 new different .177 cal Domed pellets under 8gr weight to shoot in my Crosman Challenger and Daisy Model 599 at both 10-meters and 25-yards. Received them in yesterday afternoon and numbered all of the Tins and added them to my pellet list. This morning I got all the Paper Targets ( Pellet Comparison Second Target ) taped on to some cardboard backing and ready to clamp on to my 10-Meter frame. Note: the solid black bullseye is only 1/8-inch in diameter for reference.

I cleaned the barrel bore and topped off the cylinder to 3,000psi and shot 8 rounds of the first three pellets. I have labeled each Brand and Weight for the pellet used on each line. I pushed a clean Swab down the bore and again topped off the cylinder to 3,000psi and shot the second card. Used the same procedure on card number three for the last two pellets.

I have attached a scanned photo of each card and you can see what pellets shot poorly and which ones shot really well. Too much wind today to repeat this test on the 25-yard range but I will in time and will share the results here on the Forum.

I shot theses targets from inside my house to the outside target frame. I shot from a bench using bags and a bag jack.

Rifle: Crosman Challenger .177cal
Pellets: see photos
Distance: 10-Meters
Wind: 10-15mph

Hope this information will be of some help.
ThomasT

No that that pressure is gone I can now concentrate on some real pressure, like 3,500 psi any time of any day. Yaba, Daba, Doo.

Joe

I have a very good condition Edgun R5M .22 synthetic/ walnut stock that is tuned to shoot Shoots JSB 16's @ 930 fps average, 18's @ 880 fps average. Also likes Hades and Jsb heavies but there are going slow on the current tune. Regulator is set at about 90 bar, based on the gauge. I fill to 250 bar and get about 60 shots on a fill. Very accurate, holds air as it should. The synthetic stock is in good condition, the walnut stock is in excellent condition. There are some small blemishes, all are picture. I do not want to hide anything. It will come with 4 magazines and a Carn single shot loader, a Edgun case that has seen better days but still works, two sets of replacement orings and fill probe. Rings, scope and bipod not included. Question welcome. I will ship USPS insured. I’m a serious seller and expect a serious buyer. Please do not waste my time and I will not waste yours. PayPal FF or add 3.5%. I travel for work and don’t expect payment until the day I’m ready to ship $1250 No trades please.

Hello everyone,

I know you good folks up North wish that the snow was all gone and some green grass and flowers covered the landscape. However down here in Deep East Texas we have already mowed the yard and enjoying a beautiful Spring day. My brother lived in the Hill Country of Texas, Fredericksburg to be exact, before he passed away, and he gathered up a bunch of Texas Blue Bonnet seeds for me a couple of years ago. I planted them and boy did they grow great for me, here are a couple of photos that I took this morning, hope it will make you day a bit better.

ThomasT

Who knew 7 FPE could be so much fun! I built this low power plinker for my father-in-law. It's surprisingly accurate (and quiet) at 30 yards!

Airgun: Diana Chaser via Pyramyd Air
Adjustable stock and accessories: @buckrailairguns
Optic: Axeon 3x Prism via Umarex USA
Projectile: JSB 13.4g pellets at 500fps

Anybody else having low powered C02 fun?!!!!

-Michael

Recently been cleaning my late grandparents' estate...
I remember this pistol from being a kid. Showed my dad and asked if he remembered it. He said " I got that for my 10th bday"(HIS 10TH)
it's wayyyy older than I thought.
The rifle only got used a few times before my sister got it taken(blaming me).
Both still function and sling projectiles!!
Buuuut the rifle wasn't stored as well and will need LOTS of TLC to make it look decent again.
The clock wasn't working and needed cleaning. It was the biggest. And got fixed first
*twas my granfather's retirement present from the company he worked for.

I cannot find a YouTube that explains Panthera tuning in detail. Help please. The power wheel is obvious but the micro adjustment is not. I can't even figure out how to get a hex wrench in the tiny hole behind the pressure gauge to adjust the regulator.

So I very recently installed the huma transfer port and the FX slug power kit into my .25 Impact M3. Upon installing these new additions I had to remove the air bottle quite a few times because I was just starting to learn the inner workings of the gun. So after I ran into a bit of a problem with my Regulator 2 pressure not giving me a reading, I called Utah Airguns and was advised by a Tech over the phone to remove my air bottle and take a 2.5mm allen key and turn counter-clockwise until it gently stops. Which I did, and as soon as i re-attached my air bottle the Regulator 1 pressure was reading 250 bar. After about 2 minutes, I removed the air bottle again and readjusted the Regulator 1 to read 160 bar. My question is, Did I damage anything inside the rifle? Because it states in the owners manual to never adjust your regulator pressure over 170. And...well it was at 250. However...I did NOT shoot the rifle, nor was it kept at this 250 setting for a long period of time. Im just kind of pissed off that I was advised to do this by a so called "tech" who should know better? When it clearly states to never go above 170 in the owners manual. Am I being overly worrisome? Or am I within my right to be somewhat ticked off about this?
In the picture below is with the red arrow pointing to where I made the adjustment. So you can see for yourself. Please, any and all feedback is very much appreciated and very much welcomed.

Hello AGN:

I have a Mint, Like New in Original Box DonnyFL Fat Boy 2.0 LDC w/ 1/2 UNFx20 threads that I'm looking to sell. As you probably already know, Donny isn't selling any more of these for the foreseeable future so they're getting to be harder to find for the time being. I got this Fat Boy 2.0 only a few months ago and have only tried it out briefly on my M3's but it's too . . . fat for my purposes It will come in its original packaging with all three strippers for use with 0.177, 0.22, 0.25 and 0.30 caliber pellets/slugs.

Price is $150 shipped

I've got plenty of positive feedback here so please feel free to check them on the Member Feedback forum prior to purchasing. Paypal Friends & Family payment is prefered (otherwise, please add 3.5% to cover the fees). Local pickup in the SF Bay Area is available as well.

Thanks!

Finally got a warm day yesterday here in Indiana (70 deg). Wind wasn’t too bad, but humidity was pretty high. Got home from work and decided to take advantage of the warmth. Set up some targets in the back yard and got out the 97k in .20. This is usually my go to gun just to get in some quick shots. The last time I shot it was late January when we had a 50-60 degree day.

In January I was nailing my spinners at about 45 yds. About 1.75 mil dots low, and dead on at 30 yds. So I held over the same amount yesterday, and couldn’t hit anything at 45yd. Same target location, same tin of pellets. So I tried some spinners at 30 yes, and was occasionally clipping the bottom edge???

Time to pull out some paper to see what was going on.

At 30 yards I was hitting a full mildlot low. First target attached. I also wasn’t the happiest with the group. So put the target at 45, and yup now it was 2.75 dots low. Second target attached.

Never experienced a shift like this in the past. What is up? From January to now the rifle has set in the case and not really touched. This is how I always store it. Have any of you seen a shift like this for no real reason?

I did adjust the scope up about 5 clicks, and now it is hitting great at 30 and 45. Just wonder what caused the shift, and is something I’m going to see again?

Bam86

This could go under several subject categories so will post here in this catch-all.

I try to avoid cumbersome and/or expensive gadgets and opt for little and cheap when possible, like this side wheel and metric steel measuring tape set up.

The wheel came in a box of junky parts someone handed me and the tape measure from Amazon for a few bucks.

Starting from the "0" end of the tape, I cut a length long enough to go around my wheel so the ends meet. This is more for aesthetics as I never use all 360 degrees of the wheel. I used scissors to slice the tape lengthwise so its width approximates the width of my wheel.

I applied Goop adhesive to the surface of the wheel and the tape according to the manufacturer's instructions, turned the wheel all the way to the nearest focus setting and began applying the "0" end of the tape at my pointer, wrapping the tape around the wheel and securing it with a rubber band until the adhesive cured.

My dope card is two sided. I focus, read the value on the tape at the pointer, look at my card, hold and shoot.

I've been teased about having the tiniest wheel at FT matches but I can range as well as anyone because the markings are so numerous and close together.

For quite some time I have liked the looks of the Uragan. I believe I am to a point where I may start watching the classifieds.

My preference is for a .30 with the 700mm barrel. I cast an NOE 300-55 bullet that I have decent luck with, my hope would be the Uragan and that slug would be compatible and easily tuned in the 100-125fpe range.

A couple of specific questions-----what plenum sizes are available? Are caliber swaps possible, if so what is the level of effort? Anything you hate about the gun?

Is there any real reason to go Uragan 2 vs the original?

I would love to hear from actual owners--the good, bad, and ugly. Thank you in advance for your input.

Just a little excerpt from Cardew and Cardews book, "The Airgun From Trigger to Target," that I find interesting in the current atmosphere of harmonic tuners and carbon fiber tubing/epoxy situations.

Chapter 9-The Barrel
Barrel Vibration
"In the field of firearms, barrel vibration is often blamed for inaccuracy. High speed photography has been used to examine this phenomenon and shows that a rifle barrel vibrates and wriggles about like an excited snake as the bullet travels along it. This is not surprising when one considers the huge pressures generated by the burning propellant as it forces the tight fitting bullet along the tube.

We investigated barrel vibration to see if it was the cause of inaccuracy in airguns. We were interested only in vibrations caused by the pellet itself while it was in the barrel and we did not want to be concerned with any vibrations set up by a spring and piston so we used our pneumatic projector (a very solidly mounted pneumatic rifle whose barrel may be left unsupported over the majority of its length).

We mounted vibration transducers on the muzzle of a breech mounted barrel so that ay vibration would be picked up and displayed on an oscilloscope. A slight thump with a hand anywhere on the barrel would cause the trace to move violently, yet firing the gun produced very little reaction. By causing the pellet to break a circuit carried by a pencil lead as it left the barrel, we could determine whether the small amount of vibration we had seen occurred before or after the pellet had left them muzzle.

This experiment showed an insignificant amount of vibration before the pellet left, but that the small amount of movement we had seen occurred after the pellet had left. This after exit vibration could have no effect on the accuracy of the shot.

Various other experiments were embarked upon to cross check the first, also to assure ourselves that vibration played no part in the production of large groups. In one instance we clamped a heavy lathe chuck on the muzzle, on another occasion we mounted the barrel in soft rubber rings, but the effect on the group sizes was negligible. The important factor always appeared to be the combination of barrel and pellet, later on we realized that in fact the combination of pellet, barrel and velocity have a far greater influence on the size of the group than any amount of vibration from a rifle in good condition."

The copy I just quoted from is copyright 1995 so this was back when true solid barrels were the only thing being used. A potential caveat is that no mention of fpe is made.

This may be my last stripper post for a while because I think I found the magic.

"Previously, on Tales About Strippers,"... I've been noodling around 3D printing strippers for my HW97. After going through different designs, I had settled on one that is basically a Hatsan/Rowan style stripper with a fixed cone. It's been working good, but it's a little loud for shooting in the house or back yard. So I printed a 4" moderator. Accuracy was OK, slightly bigger groups compared to the stripper. But the shot cycle felt weird, almost like the air in the moderator was causing a little recoil. A have a file for a moderator with air holes at the muzzle end that I had printed for my LGV. The previous print did not do well, the sides were too thin and you could see the outline of the baffles. So I went into design mode and thickened the walls, increased the pellet hole, removed the 1/2" female thread and added a male HW97 thread. Here's what's going on inside this moderator. Just past the muzzle there is a cone (like the stripper) with air holes. The cone transitions into 10 baffles configured like nested chevrons. Here's a picture:


I was happy with the print and I chronoed it to make sure there was no velocity loss. Nope, right at 790 fps, just like the stripper.
Then I shot it a few times in the house at 10 yards, there was a slight POI difference. And the sound is much reduced.

I went to the range today to try it at 50 yards, even though there was a pretty nasty wind. As I was sighting it in with the moderator, I had to come down about 10 clicks. Not up, down. Not sure if this is due to the wind or if it's shooting more efficiently, I'll need to wait for a less windy day to check this out.

Once I got it sighted in, I switched to the stripper and shot this group. Not a bad group for 50 yards off the knee in the wind.



Then I put the moderator back in and shot this group.

Wow. At the time, I thought I put 4 through the same hole but after looking at it I think it was probably 3 through the top hole and 2 through the bottom. Still, I think the time for tinkering has come to an end. I have found my huckleberry.

Here's a photo of the stripper and the moderator lounging sexily on a bum bag.


If anyone wants either STL file to print these yourself, send me a DM and I would be happy to oblige. I think I'll put a 1/2 female thread back into the new moderator design and try it on the LGV.

hello, I have a fx maverick .25. I was cleaning my barrel and noticed that in the final third of the barrel there are two lines inside the barrel, looking like a splice. this is normal?

Just got both of my scopes from DiscoveryOpt , they are the 5-25x56 ED PRS scope, Japanese ED Glass, TONS of goodies inside the box, will update a little later with pictures of inside the box contents. The scope is large, it is heavy at 2.4 pounds. What do you expect though?

I sighted in on a pine tree that was 400 yards and am pretty confident if I had a rifle that could reach that far I could take a chipmunk no problem. The reticle is busy but in a good way, its not obstructing, however it won't get lost either. The IR on it is bright as well (even came with battery installed), totally impressed.

The scope is definitely a clicker, super audible, lots of feed back and little slop.

I cannot wait to top my PRS Rifle and bench rifle with these scopes and be able to give you guys more feedback from off the bench.

This is my new Huben K1 .22 pigeon and rat gun. It's a very nice compliment to my Huben K1 .25

Currently tuned to shoot 15.89 hades at 815 fps, stopped counting shots around 130 , yup, over 130 shots on a rifle with a tube not a bottle.

Got my .22 and .25 JTS DEAD CENTER PELLETS in hand. I am impressed at how clean they are! Unfortunately the .25 are tight in breech in the one gun that I have shot them. Not real happy about that, as I'm sure I am probably wearing out my breech probe O-ring. The issue with the .25 is the skirt seems to have a bit more flair than other well known pellets.
GOOD NEWS: They group well at 100yds!

5-25x56. Comes with sun shade and 30mm rings. $200 $150 shipped with Pirate ship.

Just an ide to storage your silencer and endcap on your panthera.
Or forget it at home