2 DonnyFL FX moderators 22/25 bore size, good conditions and work great.

First one sold!

Second one doesn’t not have the paper tube....sold

How many of you dove into PCP with both feet on a $1,500 or more rifle or started with something cheaper at first?

[No trade offers on this listing please...]

Hello AGN,

I'm looking to sell a very nice FX Impact M3 Black w/ 0.25 caliber 600mm barrel, 28 shot high capacity magazine, upgraded 300bar 500cc bottle, stainless steel bolts and factory FX hard case. This rifle is currently set up as the "Standard" 600mm/480cc configuration with the 0.25 caliber barrel to shoot JSB 25.39g pellets at ~880fps with excellent accuracy and consistency. This M3 comes with an upgraded 500cc bottle that has a 300bar working pressure (compared to the 480cc/250bar that normally comes on this rifle); the factory trigger guard was just a hair long from the neck of this bottle and left a faint scoring line on it so I carefully sanded it down to provide proper clearance. Rifle is in excellent condition as shown in the photos; the cheek rest and shroud have been carefully wrapped in an automotive grade carbon fiber vinyl wrap (which can be easily removed without any residue if you don't want it). I've installed a stainless steel bolt set throughout this rifle and will include the original black screws as well.

PLEASE NOTE: scope and mounts are NOT included in the purchase price...

Price is: $1,750 + 1/2 actual shipping

Local pickup is available in the SF Bay Area - otherwise, payment by Paypal Friends & Family is preferred (or add 3.5% if using PP Goods & Services). I have plenty of feedback both here as well as dating back to the old Yellow Forum so please feel free to do your due diligence and know that you're dealing with a reputable trader.

Question I got a sandbag from ebay but no sand lol. What do I use to fill it with? Regular playground sand you buy at HD or some sort of plastic balls?

I have a .25 Panther 600mm. Shoots well both pellets and slugs.
Noticed a slow leak, approx 20 to 30 bar overnight. Anyone else have a similar issue?
IMHO, these are a leaky gauge seal most of the time, those X rings don’t seem to be that great.
I wanted to try and reseal the gauges but they seem to be glued in there. Does FX blue loc tite in those gauges on the Panther? Maybe use a heat gun? Don’t want to break them trying to loosen them.
Thanks….

As a new member I have reviewed a great deal of content. Some very good. Some okay. Some suspect. As a test, I "ignored" the top 10 to 15 people who post on this board. What I found was people who knew a great deal, but are overwhelmed by the prolific posters. I am pleased by my experiment, and will continue. Others may find value in this, as well.

Because If you have these two your set The only thing next for me is installing a vortex kit in the hw just like the tx

Scope/Mount/Rings - Value is $200 + Mount when New -

Will take $95 OBO Shipped CONUS:

UTG AccuShot SWAT Rifle Scope 30mm Tube 3-12x 44mm Illuminated Mil-Dot Reticle







Gun not included obviously.

Do you think Diana made a mistake replacing the 34 with the 34 EMS?

Airforce Texan .510 carbine. Maybe 40 rounds have been down the barrel. Perfect shape will come with everything in the box. Including a nice Vortex scope as well. Located in Iowa. Will consider long range hunting PCP rifles as well.

***Sold*** 3/7/23

Thomas .177 Hunter Field Target chassis # 0336

Built and ready to ship. I have BOTH right hand and left hand grips available.

Does not include scope or butt plate.

$3800 plus S&H

This HP Standard Custom Edition came brand new in the box. I only shot it for about 20 minutes for the review video, then back in the box. This gun is as Brand New. These are $579 plus shipping at the Pellet Shop (Sold Out). Includes 2 unused magazines, fill probe, padded box. Ships well packed and double boxed.

Price: $499 free shipping. Paypal Goods and Services OK. You can PM me here or call or text me at 360-844-0962 or email me at [email protected] ...click here for the review video

I am nuts for selling this...but here I go:

If you have ever wanted a fine Air Arms Walnut XS, now is your chance. This is NOT a review gun. This gun is brand new in the box, never fired, never out of the plastic till I took these pictures today. You can call or text me at 360-844-0962 or email me at [email protected] or PM me here. -Nate @ Airgun Channel

$1250+free shipping. Paypal Good and Services OK. (This gun is $1499 at PY Air)

It seems like this industry is so niche a brand could fall rather quickly if products aren't making the cut. Seems like FX is one of the most innovative and the fact they promote people to work on their guns themselves is a good thing. Several brands seem to make it about impossible to get parts or do work outside of mailing the gun away which doesn't seem like the best option for everyone. There will always be room for a nonregulated less expensive rifle but it seems like fill capacity is small on those and made of aluminum or steel. It would be nice if the carbon bottles were standardized and options of like 600cc were available.

Hello. I’m interested in getting a small carbine pcp, primarily for plinking and maybe some squirrels. It seems like the notos and the p-rod are similar in a lot of ways. A new p-rod is a good bit more expensive than the notos. Can anyone recommend one over the other and why? Or any other options in the $300-400 range? Thanks in advance!

The most common questions I get asked by friends looking to purchase a new rifle scope is what is the difference between MOA and MIL, second focal plane and first focal plane reticles, which would I recommend and why. For the longest time my answer to them has been relatively simple and vague to say the least. If you are more familiar with the imperial system and inches then go with MOA. If you are more familiar with the metric 1/10 based system then opt for MIL. As for SFP and FFP reticles, choose SFP if you want a reticle that doesn’t change size as you adjust magnification and FFP if you want a reticle who’s sub-tensions are true to scale no matter what magnification you are on.

Now personally speaking, I have always been an MOA guy myself because I grew up in a country where everything is based on the imperial system and therefore I am more comfortable dealing in inches and fractions of an inch as opposed to the 1/10 scale of the metric system. Over the years however, I couldn’t help but notice that a lot of long range and tactical shooters here in the USA seem to prefer the MIL scopes despite the fact that we all use the imperial system. This has always puzzled me and I’ve always wondered what it was that I was missing.

So before I get into what I discovered in my quest to understand what made MIL scopes so popular among shooters in certain shooting disciplines let’s first take a look at the basic difference between these two systems of angular measurement. As I mentioned before, one is closely related to inches while the other is based on a 1/10 scale factor like the metric system. For example 1MOA is approximately 1” at 100 yds and 1MIL is 10cm at 100 meters. You get my point.

A minute is just a fancy word for one-sixtieth (think about 60 minutes in an hour). Well, that's the same as saying one minute is a sixtieth of an hour. This minute is gonna be the sixtieth of the angle that is on the circle of 360 degrees. So, the sixtieth of one of those degrees is one minute of angle. It ends up being about 1.0400 inches at 100 yards. Keep in mind that it’s not a size at a certain distance, but rather it's an angle that we're making in the scope that ends up translating to a certain size at a certain distance.

With minute of angle (or MOA for short), one click on your turret is approximately equal to 1/4 MOA or a 1/4” shift of your reticle @ 100 yds. on most scopes and sometimes as low as 1/8 MOA on others. This has always made it easy for me to make calculates in my mind because I’m very familiar with inches.

MILs, like MOA, is also an angular measurement and the length it represents also increases proportionally with distance. For example, 1 mil at 100 meters equals 10cm or 3.6” at 100 yds and 20cm at 200 meters or 7.2” at 200 yards.
Now before we go any further let’s take a look at some rough numbers to put things into perspective. For comparison purposes we will convert both MOA and MILS to inches and although 1MOA = 1.047”, we’ll round that down to 1” for simplicity purposes.

1 MOA = 1” @ 100 yds & 1 click = .25 “ shift

1 MIL = 3.6” @ 100 yds & 1 click = .36” shift

From this we can see that a MOA scope will allow you to make slightly finer adjustments especially if your scope has 1/8 MOA adjustments which would translate to 1-click moving your reticles roughly only .125”!! This is useful for those who are trying to fine tune their reticle for extremely high level precision shots on small targets such as when shooting bench rest and extreme bench rest matches where you are aiming for a 1/4” X-ring @ up to 100 yds. away! Also, what’s important to note is that in this type of shooting, second focal plane (SFP) reticles are normally preferred because you can turn up the magnification on your scope to zoom in on your target and the size of your reticle remains the same as opposed to first focal plane (FFP) reticles that grow and get get thicker as your magnification increases thereby covering up more of your target. Usually thin reticles are preferred as well as they cover up less of that 1/4” X-ring when zoomed in at 100 yds! My scope of choice for bench rest and extreme bench rest is a Delta Optical Stryker HD 5-50x56 in MOA with a SFP reticle. The floating center dot is so small that I can still see the entire 10 ring at 100 yds on 40x magnification and at 40x my reticle sub-tensions are true to scale. It also has an illuminated center dot for those rare instances when I may be shooting against dark background that makes it difficult to see my reticle.

Now getting back to the topic at hand, I recently started to venture into the world of precision rifle shooting with high power airguns. With the accelerated growth and technological advancements in the airgun industry we are now able to combine the power and efficiency of modern airguns with the increased ballistic performance of airgun specific slugs. This combination now allows airgunners to push the boundaries of what is possible with an airgun. Basically we can now shoot targets much farther away with much more accuracy and precision than was ever possible with traditional drag stabilized diabolo pellets. This has ushered in a new era for airgunners with organizations such as PRS and NRL opening the doors to airguns to compete against rimfire rifles at distances previously unimaginable.

So what does all this have to do with the topic at hand you say?? Well, it’s pretty simple actually. I was looking at a typical NRL event the other day and at the stages and course of fire for each stage and while doing so I was asking myself what characteristics I would want in a scope for this type of shooting. While making a checklist of what I wanted, It quickly became apparent that what I was missing all along was the fact that different scopes are designed for different applications and the decision on which type of scope to buy had less to do with it being more similar to inches and fractions of an inch or a 1/10 scale factor used in the metric system but more so on the characteristics and feature set of the scope and how well that feature set aligns with what you need it to do for you as a shooter.

So let’s take a look at PRS and NRL shooting for example. In these types of events you are engaging multiple targets of different sizes and different distances all while on the clock. As you move down the course of fire you are engaging targets further and further away and therefore you are constantly dialing for elevation and windage. Since you are on the clock time is of essence so the less time you spend dialing the better right? Here is where the MIL scopes shine. It’s a lot quicker to dial 2 MILS than it is to dial 7 MOA so that’s time saved every time you have to adjust for elevation and windage. The finer adjustments of MOA are no longer of great importance as the sizes of the targets are much larger and that extra level of precision in reticle adjustments is no longer necessary. The targets are not 1/4” at 100 yds anymore either so having a thin reticle that doesn’t get thicker with increased magnification is no longer a priority. Instead, the ability to have your reticle sub-tensions remain true to value at any magnification you may be in is now basically a must have especially in stages where you have to use your reticle to range your targets. So as you can see, the feature set of a scope geared towards one particular style of shooting or application may be significantly different to one designed for another style of shooting or application. Different tools for different jobs… Now when someone asks me what scope I would recommend, my answer is “it depends….”.

My current PRS gun is now topped with a ValdadaOptics Recon G2 4.8-30x56 in MIL (who would have thought??) with a FFP reticle and a 40 mm main tube allowing an elevation adjustment range of 43 MILS or 150 MOA. Plenty for shooting airgun slugs out past 300 yds. So I now have both MOA and MIL scopes with both SFP and FFP reticles. The 1/10 scale is actually pretty simple to use as well and the more I use it the more I understand why so many people like it.

So with all that being said, I’m certain there was still a lot I forgot to mention. I enjoy learning new things everyday and being able to share what I learn with others and it’s my hope that I’ve been able to shed some light on the main differences between MOA and MIL, SFP and FFP and the importance of choosing a scope based on it’s intended purpose.

Id love to start geeking out about my current learning experiences on magnification ranges and how they relate to FOV values, main tube diameters and its effect on light transmission and turret adjustment ranges, eye relief, exit pupil and light transmission, locking turrets, resettable zeros and zero stops, achromatic lenses and chromatic aberration, glass quality, glass polishing and chemical lens coatings etc., but we’ll need to leave that for another time. Until then shoot often and remember - Aim small…miss small!

-Robert Hales

I have a great package to get you going. Very light use looks great. It will come with the .357 bulldog, the donnyfl moderator adapter, a big bore .357 ronin with extension and a pitbull depinger not installed. It will also come with one magazine, 1 tin of .35 hades, 3 tins of .35 polymags, and 100 nsa slugs in 110gr. $800TYD any questions feel free to ask I just don't have the time to use it. I am open to trades so just let me know what you have.

so my first NICE airgun was my FX Crown VP. Great gun but only shot it probably 3-5 times, ended up getting an FX impact within a week of buying the crown (slippery slope this airgun game is) and now i almost feel that its just pointless having the FX crown in .30 and an FX Impact Mii also in .30 . not even sure how much they go for but yeah, just looking for some opinions, and might as well display the hydrodip i did years ago on it

not sure if its a good place to ask but what do you all think i should list this for if i do decide to sell it? Thanks for the feedback ahead of time

Hawke sidewinder
8-32x56 sf
SR Pro IR
$500 OBO +shipping
Two70four01one20one

Just got my new Fx Crown MKII in 25 cal. Now I need to get some glass. I will mostly shoot at 100 yds or less, I am thinking of one of these two:
Athlon Midas TAC 6-24 or Vortex Strike eagle 5-25. Both are in my price range and are within about $50 of each other for me. They both focus (parallax) fairly close... the other scopes I like are 25 yds. or greater. Has anyone been able to compare these? Other recommendations/ comments. Thanks

$1725 or a Brocock Ranger and an HW75/Beeman P2 for everything listed below.

Early Leshiy 2, .25 / 250mm. Shoots ragged 1 hole groups of JSB Exact King and NSA 36gr / .254 out to reasonable squirrel ranges. Kings currently at ~815 fps.

Gun as set up is as quiet as a short barrel L2 can get, as flexible for pack carry as possible, arguably as good of a small game woodswalker setup as can be imagined.

Extras included:

All the stock extra pucks, back plates.

350cc bottle from Edgun Spain.
Short top tube from Edgun spain. LOP at 14". Original top tube included.
Yankee Hill Machine bottom rail. This hugs the stock shroud avout 1mm off perfectly.
Striplin 1/2 UNF adapter. Already installed.
Behemoth 4 stack and QD adapter.
STO insert, already installed.
STO 250mm in long shroud insert.
Prototype STO action cover.

This was the gun STO used to develop their products

Gun has a ding on the edge of the aluminum faceplate of the butt stock. It does NOT effect the operation or integrity of the gun. The two shots from before I sanded the burr off did scratch the finish of one mag face plate, which still works perfectly.

Never had a leak. Gun has operated flawlessly in adverse conditions from -10 degrees hunting in the upper midwest to high summer in SETX.

Selling because it is too much thump to use in my back yard. Even at 815 fps Kings rip through an inch of duct seal and ring the back plate of my trap. I love this thing but I can't use it regularly in our small backyard.

Original box included, not pictured.

Zelle or personal check and wait to clear only. No Paypal.

I think it would be fun to measure the decibel level at the muzzle for each of my air rifles. I would appreciate a recommendation of the meters you have had success in using.

Thanks:

DZ

Basically brand new Barra 1100z in .22
Comes with all the original parts. single shot trays, and the two 10 round magazines. Shoots great but I really don't need another. 22 so this one has to go.

I'm located in Georgia(west Georgia) and I'm only going to be doing local sales because shipping is insane right now. However if you really want it shipped we can talk. I'll take $275 or trade for a recurve. Definitely interested in anything archery so just let me know what you have.

This is a build I've put together in the last couple months with great success. With the 700mm CZ barrel, two TT power plenums, the HUMA reg set approximately around 130 bar, and a nylon washer behind the factory hammer spring it is generating max about 55 fpe with 22 and 24.8 grain slugs. Other upgrades include...
1) factory 8 magazine holder and two 3D printed 2 mag holders
2) digital Sekhmet pressure gauge w/ a printed owners manual
3) a custom carbon fiber barrel shroud/tensioner
4) a HUMA regulator(currently set around 130 bar)
5) DonnyFL KOI moderator
6) DonnyFL speed dialer(does have some rash but perfectly functional)

All aspects of this gun and its components are 100% functional...zero leaks or issues. That said it does have some beauty marks here and there but nothing major...10/10 functionally and 8+/10 cosmetically. It has the typical Taipan reliability, dependability, and consistency from day to day. These things are built like a tank. Don't forget the amazing trigger on these guns! Even with a 700mm barrel and a 7" moderator it is under 40" long!
Included are also...
1) fill probe
2) a single shot tray
3) 12 mags total(2 factory, 4 resin, 6 3d printed; all work great)
4) 3d printed cheek pieces
5) extra o-rings, a bipod
6) two factory regulators with extra plenum spacers
7) a modified machine screw for adjusting the HUMA reg without disassembling the gun
8) a pan head screw for degassing by depressing the valve via the HST speed dialer
9) an extra nylon washer for the HST speed dialer
10) a picatinny rail mounted level
11) a picatinny accessory rail mounted to the stock
12) Also included is the original Long CZ barrel(550mm) that shot Hades pellets lights out before I removed it. It has a 1/2x20 unf moderator adaptor with the factory Taipan shroud
13) a printed Taipan instruction manual
14) the original pressure gauge
15) an AC500 chronograph
16) 300 FX Hybrid slugs

I've loved this gun as it's very reliable and consistent and a tack driver but I just don't have the time to justify it sitting on the shelf. Currently, at 130 bar reg and current HST setting it's pushing 22 grain FX Hybrids to around 980 fps=50 fpe with great accuracy...under half inch groups at 50 meters all day. It uses right around 2-3 bar/shot at this setting. That's around 50 shots per fill. Earlier I was shooting 24.8 grain NSA slugs to 950 fps(49 fpe) with great success. None of the slugs I've tried so far have been terribly inaccurate and two have produced sub-MOA; FX Hybrid's and 24.8 NSA's in .2165" and .216". Absolute killing machine...shot a pigeon at 118 meters the other day. Oh, also included are the slugs pictured...The full value of all this is well over $2000 but I just want to get a return for most of my investment...asking $1550 TYD in CONUS for the complete package listed here, no trades, Zelle or PayPal only, local pickup in south-central PA for $1500...message me if you want more photos or info...SCOPE NOT INCLUDEDED

Folks. I am still new to this whole pcp thing. I have some newbie type questions.
1. I see where folks change barrels and stuff to shoot slugs. Is that necessary just to switch to slugs? Would I be ok shooting slugs in my new Huntsman Revere?

2. Hollow point pellets. I tried some H&N hollow points (crow magnums) today that were almost identical weight to the domed pellets I set up with. The difference was
astounding. They hit all over the place! AT 50 yards, they would hit first left, then right, then low, etc. A few shots at 100 yards and the pellets would not even travel the
entire distance. They fell short by 10 feet or more. The ballistic coefficient was that different. Is this normal? Can you do anything to shoot these pellets effectively?

Thanks gang.

Doc