I decided to send my new HW95N to Mike Ellingsworth for a tune, along with my friends R9 that had a broken spring.
Mike jumped on them and I got them back quickly.
Both rifles were flawless for the first 50 shots or so.
Unfortunately both rifles began to bind and there was metal to metal galling starting to happen.
I was dismayed to have to call Mike about it but he was totally supportive immediately about it.
I sent him the rifles and at his own expense he went through both and fixed everything!
They now cock silently and as smooth as butter!
He made up a report on what he did and here it is, complete with pictures.
Thanks again Mike for going the extra miles on these rifles.
Below is Mike’s report.



Two guns came into the shop for a full tune
Typical tune consist of a new spring and custom machined delrin spring guide and top hat.
fresh piston seal, new breech seal install and adjustment along with trigger cleaned lubed and adjusted , Barrel adjusted
with a zeroed out Hawke scope @ 18 yrds with the point of impact hitting the bulls eye.

After years of using the 0.128 spring wire with no issues both guns pistons started to gall the receiver tube, Looking into the matter It was obvious that the Outside diameter
of the spring was not filling the pistons liner enough and when in use the spring was canting with so much pressure it cause the piston to start galling the tube

The available space between bottom of piston to trigger block is checked with spring coil count and wire diameter math to work properly with the guide and top hat to work within the available space.

Switching to a wider spring that fills the piston will prevent the spring from being able to cant causing the issue, how ever after the new spring install I noticed a slight noise when cocking the barrel back fast which really bothered me, so now extra lube must be used inside the piston entrance to make that go away, and that's irritating also .

At least the new vac seal design stops piston slap or wood knock in the HW 95 models when fired and with the bigger diameter spring filling the piston we are back on track!

The only thing left was a custom Delrin piston bearing ring install and that is exactly what we did.
Two smooth HW 95 models not maxed out for maximum power is a dream and Dave totally agrees !

Here is some pictures for your interest
Thanks Dave it was a pleasure working with you !









Mike Ellingsworth

At Talon Tunes we build rifles for the beginner up to the competitive shooter/hunter..
All FX impacts, Wildcats, Panthera and Dynamics in stock
FX M3 .30/800mm tensioned barrel with altaros moderator/stripper...

Great shooter. Has both a pellet liner and heavy slug liner. Has carbon fiber insert. 580cc bottle. No leaks. $1700 shipped. Might be open to trades for others of equal value.

I have been trying for awhile now to find an insurance company that doesn't treat air rifle sales like firearms. They all want to charge as if I was a full on gun shop and call it firearms coverage. They can't/won't seem to differentiate air guns from firearms?

I have a benjamin marauder in .22 cal model number is BP2264S. Seeing as this isn't the field and target I don't think it is regulated although my shot count is pretty consistent. I could care less about shot count as I rarely go to range for extended periods of time and am fine with a little workout to pump it up again. My question is I'm doing small game hunting and pest control and want to get more power out of it. I'm currently shooting H&N Baracuda Hunter Extreme 18.52 gr zeroed at 30 yards. I am looking into the HUMA XXL regulator but the problem I see with that is I'm not sure what the shot count would be as well as I see no way to gauge the PSI on my fill with it. My other options are to mess with the tune of my unregulated marauder to try and get more power out of it but without a regulator, I'm worried it will be inconsistent. Either that or just use what I got and save up money to get an FX or something in a year or so.
Please any recommendations I'm trying to not dump money into a marauder I'd rather upgrade to something fancy later for slug shooting. Keeping it under 200$ what can I do to really improve this gun for my uses?

Next step is to move over to the mill to machine the flat for the set screw and open up a transfer port.
Due to the stick out, to reduce chatter I supported the end of the barrel.

Transfer port was cut to similar dimensions as my .22 FX barrel.
I skipped a picture of the process, but you can also see the .055" deep locating boss on the end of the barrel. I cut that on the lathe. Dimensions matched the .30 cal BRK barrel.
I ordered a .22 BRK Ghost magazine from AoA to check the recess cut for locating the magazine. The .22 mag and the .30 mag both had the same size features so I sized it accordingly.


Back to the mill for the O-ring groove on the ID. This was the trickiest part. Its very hard to cut an accurate internal o ring groove (gland) in a bore so small.
I was able to find a suitable solid carbide cutter from McMasterCarr that fit the bill.

With light cuts, it did a great job.
For o-ring grooves (glands). To get proper "squeeze," the standard is to have the O-ring groove depth 10% shallower than the O-ring cross sectional diameter. I inteded to use a 1.5x5.5mm O ring. I made a mistake here and cut the groove depth 10% shallow based on the ID bore of the rifling. When I test fitted the pellet probe. It was loose. I should have factored in the diameter of the pellet probe instead. Fortunately, I had some larger o-rings and ended up widening the groove to accommodate a 1.78x5.28 o-ring. Perfect!


Now the trickiest part. Cutting the chamfer where the treads start (just after the transfer port). I couldnt find much info on the internet on this, but the sub12airgunners channel indicated he had used a tapered dremel stone to grind the leade. I went to my dremel cutter assortment and was disappointed to find out that all of the dremel stones I had were horribly off center on the stem. I fixed this by ordering some quality dremel stones off McMasterCarr with the taper specs I was looking for. They spun true. Its hard to get a good photo of this, but you can see in the picture below the taper ground into the start of the rifling. I took this photo mid-grinding as I continuously checked on my progress with the bore scope. The final result was ground smooth so the transition line just before the taper was eliminated. I followed up with some polishing. I used Wheeler's 600grit lapping compound on a fluffy .22 bore cleaner, followed up with some JB bore paste to refine it further.



The pic below shows the position of the leade in relation to the transfer port. The rifling starts tapering just after the hole.



I should have put this pic in the beginning, but I bore-scoped all 3 LW barrels. They were in superb condition! The rifling was fantastic and there were no defects, chatter marks, or evidence of dull tooling, etc. Here's a pic of the .22 bore.


Here's the finished barrel on the bench. The last step was to clean it out and push a pellet through to make sure there is no deformation or defects imprinted into the pellet which would cause instability.



Very happy with that result! Pardon the dirty fingers.



Next up will be the machining of a .22 pellet probe. I found the factory Ghost .30 probe didnt fully seat the pellet skirts all the way into the rifling.
I'll be fixing that with my custom probe. I'll take some pics a make a short write up on that process as well.
I plan to have that done tomorrow so I'll also follow this up with some 100y groups.
This has been a lot of work, so this thing better shoot!

Brian

I figured I'd share my experience machining up a LW barrel blank to fit my BRK Ghost.
There are some good videos on youtube but not many that cover airgun barrels on hobby grade machines.
Starting point: BRK ghost .30 cal.
Objective: machine a .22 blank and the .22 probe.

First a few pics of my equipment for reference.
Lathe is a little machine shop Hi Torque 8.5x20
Mill is a Precision Matthews with DRO.


For barrels, I order 3 varieties from LW. A .177, .22, and .25. All 600mm long. All have standard rifling (they do offer polygonal), all with a 1/17 twist, and all choked.



First order of business is to take some measurements and make a plan. I ended up referencing the .30 BRK barrel and some FX smooth twist barrels also.



Since the bore centerline cant be assumed to be concentric with the barrel OD, I built a "spyder" for the front of the chuck and another for the output side of the spindle. This allowed me to indicate the barrel in on the bore axis. To start, I used an indicator on both the OD of the front and back of the barrel to get it close.



Next step was to use some "pin gauges" to make final adjustments to align with the bore center.



I made a mistake here. Since the barrel was .22 nominal and choked, I assumed the choked end was the end which had a "C" stamp on it from LW. The largest pin gauge that fit was .215" so I proceeded to cut the crown and muzzle threads. I didnt realize my mistake until I flipped the barrel around to machine the breech end and the .215 gauge pin didnt fit! Oh well. Lesson learned. I had to cut off just over 1/2" off (the breech/unchoked end) and start again.

For the benefit of those who arent familiar with the manual thread cutting process, I'll explain the steps to single point thread the muzzle.
I wanted to cut a 1/2" UNF 20TPI thread pattern. The first two things to determine are the Major diameter and the thread gutter depth.
The best way to do this is with the Machinery's Handbook.


The Major diameter I chose is the median between max & min specs (.494"). The gutter diameter is just a few thou smaller than the minor diameter. I used .437"
Below is a pic of the thread gutter cut to depth.



Next up is to reduce the OD to the major diameter.



Small chamfer added to aid in thread starting.



Since this is a hobby grade lathe, I had to change the gears which drive the lead screw to match 20TPI. This is done by referencing the chart on the machine.
The numbers apply to the tooth count on the gears. Diagram on bottom left shows gear position.



Here are the gears in place.



Onto the single point threading.



The engineering method to determine when the threads have reached correct depth is to measure them with "thread wires," but its a bit of a hassle.
I had a few different brands of LDCs on hand. I machined them until the fit was just a bit looser than "no play."



Next up is the crown. I experimented a bit here and tried 4 different ways. The objective is to make sure the pellet has a clean exit (no burrs) and to ensure the exit hole
is perfectly concentric with the bore centerline. I found a fantastic channel on the net called sub12airgunners. That guy is really impressive. The two methods he uses
are to either use a simple chamfer tool, or to use a die grinder cutoff disk rotating up and away from the center. Below is the cutoff disk method.

The result looked a bit rough. I did the Q-tip test to see if dragging it out would pull any cotton fibers (hooked on burr). It was clean.



Next, I tried the chamfer tool.



It was Ok but did have a few small burrs. Nothing that couldnt be fixed with a light polish but I ended up settling with a carbide 11deg cutter specifically for cutting crowns, then finished up with the dremel stone (similar configuration to the cutoff disk picture).




Muzzle done. Onto the breech end. First I chucked it up in the spider to cut the OD to match the factory Ghost barrel.
The surface finish was just OK. My cheap chinese carbide inserts are spec'd more for aluminum, so I used a green scotch-bright pad to cover up the evidence.
I think another factor was the "stick out." The barrel was held in a "spyder" in a chuck and still had a few inches of stick out. The super light cuts necessary generally arent well suited for carbide tooling.


Now that the OD of the breech end was concentric with the bore centerline, I removed the spider and re chucked in the 3 jaw. I double checked bore runout with an indicator and it was just .0003". I'll take that! Next step was to cut the leade. There isnt a lot of good information on how to do this on an airgun. On traditional firearm barrels, a specialized lead cutter/reamer is used. But since they arent compatible with the profile of an airgun breech, it was a manual process. Next step was the remove the rifling to just past where the transfer port hole would be milled.


You can see the rifling is perfectly centered in the bore. Proof the work was done on bore centerline.


Seems I've reached the picture limit for one post. I'll continue on in post 2 of 2 (same title).

Could have cost me my life the other day. Had a Vectis that was jammed due to me forgetting to tighten the hammer spring set screw. Finally got that fixed and ran a dowel rod thru my barrel; pushed out three pellets. Wow. So seeing the barrel was cleared I fired into the carpet inside the house. I failed to realize my dowel rod didn't go all the way through and this guy shot out, ricocheted 3-4 times and came to land on the work table next to me. Dang! My head/body could have been in that trajectory somewhere. There is a God. Thank you oh Lord for keeping me safe. A great reminder to never assume your barrel is clear and to fire them outside or in a safety barrel when possible. Keeping this as a good reminder for the future.

I saw a AEA SF series. I wanted to know if this is a decent airgun. I am retired, live in the county and like to shoot. I want to shoot targets off front porch and maybe some squirrel/small varmit hunting. I used to shoot a lot of targets with center-fire rifles and don't enjoy guns that aren't accurate or ones I cannot make accurate. I'm pretty good at tinkering and working on things so not afraid of needing to tweak. In your opinion would this be a good rifle to get it would get shot a lot.

This is NOT a laughing matter!
Beware of a laughing airgun enthusiast in your area:

Hey guys


Say I have been looking at getting another rifle for my son for some NRL22 shooting, for his birthday coming up. I was looking at a 22lr for him, but in my talking with people it would seem that powder and bullets may get hard to find again. So to avoid this and being as I have a ton of pellets and a compressor, ammo and air are not a worry. And being as I am not sure if he is going to be going forwards with the NRL22 with me, I don't want to drop a ton of money into a rifle for him. He is currently shooting an EdGun R5M .177 so he is no stranger at shooting airguns with me, just need something in a higher caliber.

So I was looking at the Armada due to its adjustability and semi light weight. That had me wondering how the accuracy and dependability of the rifle is. Shooting out to 100 yards will be a standards for the rifle. More than likely looking at either the 22 or a 25, but leaning more towards the 22 being as I have plenty of ammo.

So what do you guys think of the rifle over all OR is there another option that would be a good thought? I have been talking with a fellow member here about a Daystate Wolverine and that would be a killer rifle, I just don't want to have the stock or bottle to get scratched on the barricades.

So what do you guys think?

Hi Guys & Gals, been out of the game for awhile, but the fever never quite went away. I lost interest because I stopped hunting & Grandkids seem to replace it.
Anyway, I have a 2-part question:

1st, I don't really like bullpups, but love carbines, so;
Is there a way to turn a Vulcan (1st rendition) into a carbine; stock choices of course.
It's a wonderful rifle but not my bag. If the answer is no then I'm afraid it will have to go on the block.

2nd, whether I sell or keep, I want to get it re-sealed;
I would like to get in touch with Derrick Wall, but can't seem to get a callback on the number Charlie Frear gave me
Does he have a website or business name I should be looking for?

Thanx in advance

Hawke 8x32x56 scope. As new in the box as it came to me. All accessories included. This is too much scope for my tired old eyes. $500.00 shipped.

I'm Ricardo, 37 years old, I'm from the island of Terceira, in the Azores, Portugal! I have been practicing pistol shooting at 10 meters ISSF since November 2022 and in my first Match after a week of training I made 420 points!
I had since Christmas 2022 a FWB 103 with the dry fire broken, even so in June I was 3rd in the Sanjoaninas 2023 championship with 492 points, which was my record with the FWB 103!
this Christmas my brother who had already offered 103 to see if I liked it offered the FWB P44 that was his, I entered the district and went to the RegionalI which I was in the half table with 471 points because I barely knew the pistol!
She was officially mine for Christmas and I had a bad start to the season making 434 points in the first match because the sigth was very low and the trigger was also not as I liked!
Finally I was sad but I trained and trained and on 01/31/2024 I reached 503 points with her, and since then I have reached 502,511 and 516 at the club and several times between 500 and 516 at home!
The pistol was bought in 2011 and has a leak through the barrel that sometimes spills and others do not, I have already ordered the Orings kit but it is missing for the regulating valve that I am seeing if I find out what they are and I have even published it here in the forum... I have match on the 21st and I hope to be able to do it!
It is a pleasure to be part of this forum, I hope to be useful and learn a lot! Greetings to all!
Ricardo

F/X Wilidcat MK3 compact in excellent condition with custom Kuiu camo dip done by Utah Airguns. $1300 shipped includes WCmk3, 1 .22magazine, 2 .25magazines. 1 500mm .25 barrel and 600mm barrel. 1 .25 huma probe, 1 .22 Huma probe, fill probe and Black Arts barrel band. Trades welcome. Scope, rings, moderator, fx chrono and bipod not included but can be discussed. Any pics needed can be messaged upon request. Pic shown is 500mm .25.
Screenshot is current tune. Pretty efficient with 3 mags per fill.

The above review is for BuckRail. It's no secret that they have exceptional customer service. It's also no secret that stacked filament is not durable enough for prolonged field use.

There's a cheap and easy fix for that.

Order some industrial heat shrink of the correct size and install it over the moderator. Even thin heat shrink will greatly increase the durability. You can double it up if you feel the need.

I like to heat a baking sheet and roll the assembly on it to uniformly shrink the tube but you could still use a heat gun or micro torch etc.

This BuckRail tapered 1/2x20 has industrial 1.25" heat shrink over it.



I could throw it against a brick wall and it wouldn't break. Save yourself and Terry the hassle and put some over yours. I think it looks better this way too. Less like a "toy". It also slightly reduces the 'whispy' 'plasticky' ping from resonance that some of them have.

Thanks for reading. Make a great weekend.

I know...this looks crazy. And I don't mean to detract from the main thread...but how many optics is too many on a GK1?



Basically, I got too excited when I got the A3 stock yesterday and threw a riser red dot on...to discover I can use both if I want to! I will be truthful...I felt like a bad@$$ for 60 seconds shooting pistol style then flipping the stock out and using the red dot.

This morning I went back to 'normal' mode and flipped the stock piece around on the a3. The two optic gk1 may come back though......... #flameon

What does the "Importer" do, that the manufacturer and/or a dealer can not do?

Generally speaking, a maufacturer makes a product, sells the product to a variety of dealers, who sell the product to the consumer.

3 vital componets of the entire process, from manufacturing to end consumer.

But with airguns (and P.B.'s as well,) there is a middleman called the "IMPORTER".

What exactly is the purpose of this middle man or importer?

Wouldnt the manufacturer reduce overall cost, by selling their product directly to their dealers, and eliminating this middle man?

Help me understand the purpose of the importer!

.

New not used. I have three of these for sale.

Carbon Fiber and PETG baffles with resin printed endcaps. She's a looker.










Two shots with a 22 fpe Talon P .20 cal no moderator, then two shots same rifle same
pellet with the Ember and finally the sound of the pellet impacting on the target
backstop at 25 yards. The target is further from the microphone than the muzzle of the rifle.
Play this at half speed to hear it better.



35mm by 100mm / 1.38" by 3.94"
60 grams / 2.1 oz.
22 caliber
1/2 x 20 UNF stainless steel helicoil insert

Designed to run on rifles between 20 and 40 fpe but will run fine on more powerful guns.
This is the new "porous" baffle technology we have been discussing on the forum the last
six weeks or so.
Accuracy second to none.

This design has been repeatedly tested on a 70 fpe CONDOR.

$50.00 to your door, CONUS only. I will ship OCONUS but we will need to work out shipping.

PM @OldSpook with your email address. I will invoice you via PayPal.


**It is your responsibility to know and obey the laws in your jurisdiction**
**Marked "Airgun Only"**

Mike

In celebration of Presidents day, Im stepping away for the next week to enjoy the pursuits of life.

See y'all in a week!

Mod in excellent shape, 1/2×20 threads.

Willy Jeep; 630 HP This is a test video. Kind of cool, and teaching Nicholas how to post videos with a picture in them.

I recently set up a 25 Yd range outside in my backyard. It's 23 Yds from the window to the firepit and so I sit 2 Yds inside the comfort of my shop. It was dark and snowing tonight so I set up a Dewalt spotlight on my pellet trap. Nice evening of shooting!