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Looking to buy an inexpensive pcp to replace my breaker for squirrel hunting

Hey everybody. I'm still in the middle of my learning curve when it comes to air gun hunting so thanks in advance for your advice. I bought a budget Stoeger break open gun and replaced the trigger (charliedatuna.com> great investment!). It's a .22 and I played with different pellets to find the ones this guns likes. Sitting at a bench, it is plenty accurate for anything I want to do. I read up on the recoil of a breaker, using the military grip, etc. However, if I'm walking around the yard, it's a very difficult gun to use to hit a squirrel in the head.
I want to switch to a pcp gun with 2 main concerns. I want to spend under $500 on the gun and I want to figure out how to refill the tank without buying a compressor or going to a dive store. Your thoughts please. Thanks,
Will
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Other  first pcp need help deciding on what

hi, im not sure if this is the proper place to post this so if its wrong please tell me where. im looking to get back into airguns as powder related guns in NY is becoming a hassle between ammo costs and laws. i have a budget of about 650$ US, which would need to include scope, i guess a handpump and the gun itself. i have been looking through a bunch of stuff and kinda been hung up on the air venturi avenger 22, the notos 22, gamo urban, or the gauntlet 22. or if there is a better bang for my buck than those. any help would be awesome, thanks

edit, after overwhelming support of the notos, that is what i went with, thanks for all the help

N/A  What is a good budget lightweight PCP that wont pass through sheet metal?

Hello all,
I hope I am not asking too much in my title, but basically I am looking for a replacement for our old Gamo silent cat that is a bit over 5lbs. The intended use is to clear out pigeons in our back storage area which has sheet metal walls and roof. I am looking for a light weight pcp that my father can handle more comfortably than our silent cat and wont shoot holes through the wall. We have an air compressor on site so filling shouldn't be an issue.

So far I was looking at the Benjamin Marauder Air Pistol with the carbine stock attachment but I'm worried 22's may put holes through the metal compared to the 177's in our gamo. Any thoughts on this. Its also a bit high than I would like to spend and would be the top top of my budget at around 450, but if it fits at almost half the weight of the gamo I would seriously consider it. We shoot anywhere from 20-30 feet away usually.

Appreciate any insight and suggestions. Thanks!
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JTS  How about a AIRACUDA Standard ... Maximized !!!

Lol ... Some have seen this conversion before, some not ;)
This started life as one of the Pre-release "Demo" guns from a couple years ago. It is the steel air tube, non regulated .22 cal "Standard"model .. or should say "Was"

These last few years screwing around inside the action, it got a Peek poppet, Cobra air spring & SSG devise for zero hammer bounce etc ...
Action then placed into a modified Diana 75 10 meter stock & ( Inletted ) to fit the JTS standard action.
As originally set up was about a 37-38 FPE rig with heavy pellets and provided @ 25 shots with a decent ES value.

3-4 months ago decided to Regulate it fabricating a reg holder / plenum spacer using an OEM Max model reg. As expected the power came down with it having a mid output tune @ 28 fpe. Tune was fairly mild and rifle was making a solid 40 regulated shots on a 3k fill with reg sitting at @ 1700 psi.

*** Over the weekend pulled the factory barrel/shroud off ( 17" barrel BTW ) and fit a 16mm barrel at 25" long into the receiver making sure it was all bedded in and wiggle free.
With the added 8" of barrel the POWER jumped way up and changing NOTHING in tune it is back to making 36 FPE with a 21g pellet or slug and gives the same 40 regulated shots !!!

While it is a tad heavier & longer it shoots just fantastic !!!! making it a real gem made up from an inexpensive base model into a VERY capable target or hunting rig.

Pic #1 with stock barrel / shroud
Pic #2 with new barrel & ldc fitted.

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FX  Newbie here-just purchased my first air rifle: Fx Panthera Hunter Compact .25 cal

I have some basic questions regarding correct pressure of gun etc plus tuning.

I paid for scope level, mount and zero up to 35 yds. It is extremely accurate. It came with Reg pressure around 135 Bar. I read in the manual to never let the canister pressure get below the Reg pressure. That being said, I've shot roughly 15-20 rounds through it and the main pressure is super close to Reg pressure now. I believe max reg pressure is around 180 Bar.

My equipment:
Fx Panthera Hunter Compact .25cal
.25 JSB King pellet 25.4gr
300cc carbon fiber fill bottle

Here's my question: with this set up, should I be able to get more shots out of this bottle? Or is this about right with this size bottle, pellet caliber/grain and pressure settings? If I turn the Reg pressure down to around 110, should my accuracy drop much? Or should I just leave it as is, and understand I need to fill it roughly every 1.5 mags. I guess I can always get the next size up bottle too, the 580cc bottle.
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Same ole problem but cheapest way to solve it

What do you guys do to fill you air guns at remote locations. I know it has been discussed countless times. What is the cheapest
way? Tank, remote compressor hook up off car battery. I hear you must have a giant generator to power a Yong Heng compressor?
Is there a remote car compressor that will not brake the bank? I need help!

🪰Fly
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Simple question that ballistic apps can't answer -- I must be missing something.

Hypothetically speaking, let's say I have an extreme spread of muzzle velocity of 30fps. Let's also say I'm sighted in at 50 yards. I want to know where the point of impact would be at 100 yards for the fastest shot and the slowest shot relative to the point of impact of a shot taken at the average velocity. I COULD just change the muzzle velocity in the app, but the result would not be mathematically correct because the app still thinks I'm sighted in at 50 yards and not missing at 50 yards -- but the fastest and slowest shots WOULD be missing at 50 yards and 100 yards.

Does anybody know how I could get a mathematically correct answer? Just an FYI -- I have strelok pro and the original hawke chairgun.

stovepipe

You sold something - okay lets talk about how to package what you just sold.

Recently received a couple of things from AGN members packaged in such a way as to make me curse.
This causes the need for a buyer to confront a seller with the issues and nobody likes this process.
In both my cases we resolved the issues as adults.
But... these situations can and should be avoided altogether.

Here's the thing...

You MUST individually pad and wrap items (especially heavy items) in such a way as they can not move, shift or contact each other and or the end of the box. Because once the gorillas start throwing your box around... paper wrap doesn't cut it, Air bubbles from Amazon don't cut it - but closed cell foam and cardboard stiffening and dividing methods work wonders.

My suggestions and others can add:

For barrels consider taping them to a dowel or piece of wood or very thick cardboard so the ends of the barrel are unable to make contact with anything; then bubble wrap them and put closed cell foam on both ends of a container. I like pool noodles and pipe insulation wrap also.

For pellet tins secure the inside contents with foam and or tissue etc.. and then tape them closed and bubble wrap them in a small protective envelope and seal with more tape so they cant burst open. Anything that rattles alerts shippers to issues.

All small items should be individually padded and wrapped and labeled as necessary.

neither the butt end of a guns stock nor the barrel / shroud etc... should ever be able to make contact in such a way as it's weight is riding on the gun.

Remember - pack it like you would want to receive it - "that'll do" packaging rarely does anyone any good.

N/A  Broken transfer port and how to fix it

My .177 Nova Liberty transfer port adjuster blew up.

When I shot I heard a loud pop and the transfer port ejected the receiver.
I never expected to have projectiles coming sideways :)

The same transfer port is used in Nova Liberty/Freedom, Seneca Aspen and maybe a few more.

Anybody knows how I can get a replacement transfer port ?

I really like this air gun, and it is very accurate.
That's the main reason I don't transform it into a pile of parts.

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AEA  AEA .45cal Bullpup 100 yard accuracy?

I,m looking at the .45 cal Bullpup. I find many reveiws on them on there power. But very little on how accurate they are at 100 yards.
l know a $$660 gun can not comparing with some of these over $1000 rifles. But for you that have one what kind of groups can a
guy really expect from on. I,m not daddy big bucks, just a retired guy on a fixed budget So that’s a lot of money to me. But .45 cal
is what I’m looking for, & I know they pack a lot of power. But maybe I,m asking too much at 100 yards from this gun? Your comments
please.

🪰Fly
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Crosman  1322 lost accuracy- suspect barrel

Hello all!

This is my first post. I bought a 1322 from Amazon. I installed a baker aluminum breech and a red dot sight. Accuracy seemed acceptable right off the bat and from the bench I proceeded to shoot off hand over the last month. I used it to dispatch a couple juvenile groundhogs in a live trap and shot a couple rabbits and a squirrel out of my garden and I've done quite a bit of plinking. All seemed well. A few days ago I installed a 1399 stock and added a pool noodle cheek rest which still doesn't get my eye up to the ideal height, but it's okay. Yesterday, I was plinking around and noticed that I was missing a medium size soup can at about 12 to 15 yd. This seemed weird because with the new stock my stability was very much improved. So I got out some paper and started shooting from a bench. It's all over the place. Don't know if accuracy was slowly diminishing and I just didn't notice it shooting off hand as a pistol or what. It's shooting like 4 in groups at 15 yards. I tried crosman domed, pointed and some Gamo hunting pellets all had the same results. I cleaned the barrel and it took forever until the patches were fairly clean. That did nothing. I took the Red Dot off and shot open sights but that did not help matters. I took the metal breech and barrel off so I could inspect things. I noticed that the bore seems off-center in the barrel at the muzzle. Also, the crown seems weird. There is a bevel on one side, but almost none on the opposite side. Hopefully my picture attaches. I'm not sure how things could have changed from when I started shooting it. I've probably got 300 pellets through it, maybe more. What do you guys think of the muzzle area in the picture? Could this be causing my troubles? It's pretty frustrating because I know this can be an accurate pistol from everything I've read and I don't want to shoot at animals if it's behaving like this. At four or five pumps, I had good lighting to watch the pellet travel against the white of my paper Target. Some of the pellets seem to just veer off one way or the other. Looking for advice. Thanks!

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Hostage rescue quickie

Here's a fun and cheap target idea. If you're anything like me, I can't focus and have good fundamentals for more than one target card, maybe 2. I found a deck of cards that has tiny clubs, hearts, spades, and diamonds. These measure at roughly .25"x .34". Try not to kill the hostage. A clean target is one shot on each symbol top and bottom. The bigger symbols can be used as sighters if you wish, but you still can't kill the hostage so be careful. Haven't really thought about how to score it. Distance is 30 yards. 50 would probably be even more fun.

FWB  Wanted - FWB Sport Tune details and results

Hi all

First off - this thread is about the modern FWB Sport, not the classic 124/127 rifles.

Since there are few Sports but many that needed a tune when new (and because I'm about to tune one...) I'd like it if those who have already been down this road would list what they did/compo ents used and what the final results were.

I'm going to make up a spring guide for both the OEM spring anI for a Titan #1 spring, and use a Vortek piston seal. I'll start with the Titan spring as it should shoot much softer, though I'm hoping that I don't drop below 12fpe. I may. As it is (stock everything) it's harsh and extremely hold sensitive.

If that doesn't do it for me, I'll go back to the OEM spring but with a tight spring guide.
I know that many have clipped a couple of coils from the OEM spring, and I'm guessing the #1 won't be too much different than that.

Thanks in advance!
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