Taipan Taipan Slash first tuning report.

How can velocity cause clipping? In my opinion, it should never happen unless you double load, but that's not possible with the Slash.
From chat gpt

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So, is the below correct? I think I might still be confused :)

If I want to adjust regulator without gauge, then no degassing necessary?

For this method, I would adjust reg cw to increase reg pressure. But, when turning ccw to decrease reg pressure, I must dry fire 2-3 time to get reg to settle at new pressure?
You basically can adjust any regulator up under pressure. I’d be very cautious doing it decreasing reg pressure unless explicitly stated by the manufacturer. There are very few that actually operate completely this way going down in pressure. Most that “allow” that are still a grey area. Move it an 1/8 turn and fire. They are having you move it tiny amounts so you don’t damage the internals. I personally pass on that and just degass when decreasing .
 
You basically can adjust any regulator up under pressure. I’d be very cautious doing it decreasing reg pressure unless explicitly stated by the manufacturer. There are very few that actually operate completely this way going down in pressure. Most that “allow” that are still a grey area. Move it an 1/8 turn and fire. They are having you move it tiny amounts so you don’t damage the internals. I personally pass on that and just degass when decreasing .
One regulator that appears to be an exception to this is the one on the Huben K1. It lets you adjust it down to zero to fully vent the plenum without taking any shots, leaving the main reservoir still full of air. I found it amazing to be able to "degas" a gun to take it apart, and yet still have enough air on board to be able to be up shooting again after reassembly without having to add any air into it. That said, I swapped mine out for a Huma regulator as it is a bit more stable than the Huben regulator at lower pressures - my gun shoots well at around 100 bar, where the Huben regulator seems to prefer to run around 150 or so.

It would be great if somebody made a regulator that had all the best features in combined into one . . .
 
I don't think Taipan has made this clear yet. I'm degassing for all moves up of down at the moment until clarification is made by them. What you say does seem logical though and likely the way it's designed.
I'm just doing what I am out of caution for now. On the Taipan.. CW is more pressure and CCW is less.. Very straight forward and easily done. I almost see that adding the reg gauge to tune like a fighter jet retracting it's landing gear. This design keeps things simplified and it really helps as it's so easy to shoulder and helps make a narrower rifles case.
I don't understand why companies don't make these clarifications and take the steps to show everything that is needed before they launch a new item.
 
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You basically can adjust any regulator up under pressure. I’d be very cautious doing it decreasing reg pressure unless explicitly stated by the manufacturer. There are very few that actually operate completely this way going down in pressure. Most that “allow” that are still a grey area. Move it an 1/8 turn and fire. They are having you move it tiny amounts so you don’t damage the internals. I personally pass on that and just degass when decreasing .
If you see earlier in the thread Taipan has already explicitly stated you can move down without degassing… they just said you have to dry fire a few times for the reg to actually reset to the adjustment. No other cautionary statements were made…. This gun is like the Huben: All valve no hammer spring.
 
One regulator that appears to be an exception to this is the one on the Huben K1. It lets you adjust it down to zero to fully vent the plenum without taking any shots, leaving the main reservoir still full of air. I found it amazing to be able to "degas" a gun to take it apart, and yet still have enough air on board to be able to be up shooting again after reassembly without having to add any air into it. That said, I swapped mine out for a Huma regulator as it is a bit more stable than the Huben regulator at lower pressures - my gun shoots well at around 100 bar, where the Huben regulator seems to prefer to run around 150 or so.

It would be great if somebody made a regulator that had all the best features in combined into one . . .
Ok nice…the Skout regs are another. Their downside is if you leave the gun fully pressurized the reg vents periodically and basically slowly leaks over time.
 
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I don't understand why companies don't make these clarifications and take the steps to show everything that is needed before they launch a new item.
They have clarified. Just dry fire the gun 2-3 times after moving the reg down to reset and reflect the new reg pressure. I literally posted a screen shot on their official YouTube where they state this… he also states it in that shooting demonstration video
 
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If you see earlier in the thread Taipan has already explicitly stated you can move down without degassing… they just said you have to dry fire a few times for the reg to actually reset to the adjustment. No other cautionary statements were made…. This gun is like the Huben: All valve no hammer spring.
Good to hear. Wish more were like this. Most aren’t. I have to rebuild a daystate huma reg for stupidly turning the screw the wrong way and not realizing it until I had moved it twice a decent amount. It now doesn’t maintain its rock solid pressure. It slowly creeps down as the bottle pressure decreases. There is a small delrin disk in those regs that gets squished when you turn down under pressure. Then the reg doesn’t act right.
 
One regulator that appears to be an exception to this is the one on the Huben K1. It lets you adjust it down to zero to fully vent the plenum without taking any shots, leaving the main reservoir still full of air. I found it amazing to be able to "degas" a gun to take it apart, and yet still have enough air on board to be able to be up shooting again after reassembly without having to add any air into it. That said, I swapped mine out for a Huma regulator as it is a bit more stable than the Huben regulator at lower pressures - my gun shoots well at around 100 bar, where the Huben regulator seems to prefer to run around 150 or so.

It would be great if somebody made a regulator that had all the best features in combined into one . . .
I am curious what the Taipan offers over the K1 in terms of performance, assuming either .22 or .25 calibers. I realize that the Slash has removable magazines. Both look like great platforms.
 
I am curious what the Taipan offers over the K1 in terms of performance, assuming either .22 or .25 calibers. I realize that the Slash has removable magazines. Both look like great platforms.
I am too - I don't know enough about it yet. It does not seem to be as "friendly" towards changing power output as the Huben - I'll admit I did not care that much about the feature when I got it (I figured I'd set it once and forget about it) but it has proved to be a great feature for me in different pesting situations. I love being able to easily choose anywhere between about 3-35 FPE with the same pellets in the magazine for any given shot, with no impact on the next shot's power or accuracy if I want it to be different.
 
I am too - I don't know enough about it yet. It does not seem to be as "friendly" towards changing power output as the Huben - I'll admit I did not care that much about the feature when I got it (I figured I'd set it once and forget about it) but it has proved to be a great feature for me in different pesting situations. I love being able to easily choose anywhere between about 3-35 FPE with the same pellets in the magazine for any given shot, with no impact on the next shot's power or accuracy if I want it to be different.

I don't have a Slash.... yet. But, for me, one major plus for the Slash will be barrel cleaning. With the mag removed, being able to use a Crown Saver or Patch Worm will be much appreciated (I assume we can use them). Plus, no worries or fear of accidentally 'triggering' or 'propelling' the cleaning rod like in K1 and GK1.

But don't get me wrong.... In my opinion, I think the Huben K1 and Gk1 Pistol are one of the best, if not best semi-auto's out there. If the Taipan Slash can even hold its own with them, it will be a major plus and another option for all of us.
 
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As for the regulator adjustments. I said earlier it seems 1 degree on the clock = about one bar or just under so lot's of movement available up and down.

I'd sent Tony at Talon Tunes a note asking about min and max pressure settings for the Slash regulator. Here's his recommendation:

'It depends also on calibers and power range. But usually best setting is between 100-150bar, ... Minimum is 80bar and maximum is 170bar.'

JP
 
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Yes, thank you!
Did you shoot it until the velocity started to drop, and thus know what pressure the regulator is set to?
That way, we can determine the air consumption per shot for .22 25gr at 912fps.

Btw, the thicker grip suits it well (y)
I did shoot it until it dropped then removed the few shots afterwards to get ES. It also wasn't a full fill and I shot it 4 times prior to going over the chrono to settle the regulator in case it needed it without ammo. So it may get 60 at those velocities with those pellets.
 
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** A Correction to this post is listed in a separate post on page 4 of this thread **
** The Slash pellet magazines were found to securely hold all of the pellets tested below **
** The problems cited in this post were user error and caused by not seating the pellets deeply enough into the
** magazines. The pellet magazines work fine and are an excellent design and build quality.

*********************************************************************************************************************************************************


Here are some initial test results and observations for a .25 Taipan Tactical airgun with the shorter 420 mm barrel.

The Slash is nice and solid, all metal except for the air tank but still relatively light at just over 6lbs.. The magazines are a single large piece, machined from metal, and slide/rotate into a retaining slot where they are held securely in place with a sliding rod. The magazines rotate into the next firing position so quickly after firing that I couldn't see them moving.

Per an earlier post, the recommended operating pressure range on the Slash regulator is roughly between 100 Bar to 150 Bar, with a minimum pressure of 80 Bar and a maximum pressure of 180 Bar. I initially decided to test the velocity and fpe for 6 kinds of pellets and 2 kinds of slugs at 80, 100, 120,140,160 & 180 Bar.

Vortex Strike 24.7
JBS Exact King 25.39
Crow Magnum 26.24
Hades 26.54
Baracuda30.86
JBS Exact King Heavy MKII 33.95
Zan slugs 38
Altaros slugs 50

The Vortex Strike, Crow Magnum, Hades and Baracuda pellets did not fit the magazines correctly. Some of the pellets started to back out of the magazine as shooting continued and eventually it prevented the magazine from rotating. It appeared that those pellets were either not sufficiently snug to be held securely in the magazine due to their diameter. It is also possible that some of the pellets were not being inserted deeply enough into the magazine by the Taipan pellet seating disk to secure the pellet correctly in the magazine.

One of the attached pictures shows how the Exact King pellets have been inserted securely a good distance down into the magazine. Taipan provides a round 3D printed pellet seating disk with the magazines. The disk has 12 short prongs on one face which line up with each pellet in the magazine. It is used to push all of the pellets at once to the correct depth in the magazine. The depth of the cavity in the rear of a pellet varies considerably between different pellets though.

I think that some of the lighter pellets with deeper rear cavities might not have backed out of the magazine if there had been a 2nd pellet seating disk available with slightly longer prongs than the included disk. That way pellets with very deep skirts could be seated further into the magazine. Those would tend to be lighter pellets which are not well matched to an airgun with this much power.

The Slash includes a Pellet magazine and a Slug magazine. The magazines look identical to me, except that the pellet magazine have a very tiny round indentation on the face of the gear. The ammo holes in the slug magazine are slightly narrower than the ammo holes in the pellet magazines. I tried unsuccessfully to load the Zan slugs and the Altaros slugs into the slug magazine. The Altaros slugs would not go in past their waist. The Zan slugs went in a bit further and then stuck firm. Both types of slugs were unusable with the slug magazine. The slugs went slightly further into a pellet magazine but were still too large to fit through. One of the Barista Slash videos on YouTube clearly mention the guns as being very sensitive to the diameter of ammo. I'll wait on getting any more slugs until someone else finds other .25 cal slugs that actually work well in their .25 Slash.

So in the end the testing only involved the two kinds of .25 cal pellets, which I already had and which also fit the magazine correctly, and which didn't back out or jam the magazine at the pressures tested; The JSB ExactKing 25.39 and the JSB Exact King Heavy MKII 33.95.

Adjusting the regulator pressure: This was actually easy and described in detail in recent YouTube videos. The small access hole for the air release valve is next to the brass colored cocking handle as shown in an attached picture. It uses a 2mm Allen wrench and a slight counterclockwise turn to release the air. Note from the picture the location and especially the angle at which the Allen wrench engages the valve control at the bottom of the access hole.

The two little bolts holding the rear plate covering the face of the regulator use a 2.5 mm Allen wrench. The regulator's adjustment plate has 4 holes in it which accept the 2 metal pins protruding from the cylindrical regulator adjustment tool. After installing the pressure gauge for the regulator in the left side of the cheek rest I found that my rifle came with the regulator set at around 150 Bar.

I wanted to be able to roughly adjust the regulator pressure based on the position of the holes in the regulator's adjustment plate instead of needing to install a pressure gauge in order to always check things. This turned out to be easier than I'd expected.

With the cylindrical regulator pressure adjustment tool inserted into 2 of the holes in the regulator's adjustment plate, and turned slightly until the tool pointed vertically (straight up and down), the regulator was almost exactly at 120Bar. Turning the cylindrical tool exactly one quarter turn clockwise, from vertical to horizontal as shown in an attached picture, raised the regulator pressure to almost exactly at 180 Bar. That ¼ turn of the regulator adjustment plate covers almost the full range of recommended regulator pressures.

The regulator pressure increases in a roughly linear fashion from 120 Bar to 180 Bar as the adjustment tool is turned through 90 deg from vertical to horizontal.

I initially began testing pellets at 100 Bar on the regulator but the magazine consistently failed to cycle, usually after the first shot. The Slash user guide indicates that when the regulator pressure is set too low or too high that the magazine may not cycle correctly. It recommends adjusting the regulator pressure until the magazine begins to cycle again. So my tests below were done with the regulator set no lower than 120 Bar.

Here is the short summary of initial Regulator Pressure, Velocity f/s and fpe, with the average Velocity taken from 5 to 8 shots at each pressure. I connected the Slash directly to a 7L bottle for testing so did not track air consumption.

Reg100 Bar: 1 shot only – no cycling
King 25.39 & King Heavy MKII 33.95
926f/s– 48fpe and 823f/s – 51fpe


Reg120 Bar:
King 25.39 & King Heavy MKII 33.95

987– 55 and 868 – 57

Reg140 Bar:
King 25.39 & King Heavy MKII 33.95

1033– 60 and 818 - 64

Reg160 Bar:
King 25.39 & King Heavy MKII 33.95

1079– 66 and 968 - 71

Reg180 Bar:
King 25.39 & King Heavy MKII 33.95

1112– 70 and 1006 - 76

So the shot power increased by about 50% as the regulator pressure was raised from 120 Bar to 180 Bar:

From 55fpe to 70fpe for the 25.39g Exact Kings.
From 57fpe to 76fpe for the 33.95g Exact King Heavy MKIIs.

I had hoped to be able to get the shot power down under 40fpe using the regulator while keeping velocities in the 900 f/s range. I'm not sure if there are lighter pellets which are as wide as the Exact Kings so that they would remain snug in the magazine and won't back out. But for now, anyway, 120 Bar will be my low regulator setting and 180 Bar the high setting. Since the regulator's cylindrical adjustment tool only rotates ¼ turn between 120 Bar and 180 Bar it's also easy to roughly estimate the regulator pressure without the pressure gauge installed, based on how far you turn the adjustment tool from vertical.

I don't have a .25 K1 or .25 L2 anymore for a direct sound or trigger comparison at the same power levels. The Slash seems quieter than both of those to me, from memory anyway. But someone with all three models would need to make a direct side-by-side sound comparison at similar power levels to provide an accurate answer.

I plan to sell this Slash in the AGN Classifieds later this summer. I only got it out of technical curiosity because it's a completely new model from a major manufacturer. And because it's a serious new competitor for the Huben K1 and the Edgun Leshiy 2 in the semi-auto airgun market. I would strongly prefer to sell it to someone who already has a Huben K1 and an Edgun Leshiy 2 and who is also willing to run some basic head-to-head comparisons between the three of them.

JP



2a Regulator adjustment faceplate at 180 Bar.jpg


3a Slash magazine with Exact King pellets.jpg


1a Regulator adjustment faceplate.jpg


4a Rear view 1.jpg


9a Air release valve position.jpg


5a Rear view 2.jpg


6a Rear view 3.jpg




8a Magazine side view.jpg
 
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Nice review, and thanks for the information. It's kind of disappointing to have that much power but nothing much to apply it to, nor a way to shoot ammo that would work at more reasonable power levels . . . it seems that all of the variants of semi-autos that shoot out the magazine have the magazine as a huge constraint on what can be fed to the barrel. I was excited to see that the Slash has two different mag sizes to help with this issue, but it seems they did not get it right, at least for launch. Hopefully they will correct it going forward
 
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