BlackICE said:

Nice voice over. Is that AI generate?

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No it is a mix up of a number of tracks I downloaded from youtube.

JSB 10.34: 6 full tins, 1 is 1/2 full
MEISTERKUGELN 7gr: 1 tin 3/4 full
HN FTT Blue: 1 full tin
HN FTT Orange. 3/4 tin dented
Gamo tomahawk: 2 full tins of 750
Predator Polymags: 2 full tins, 1 is 1/2 full

$100 shipped

MadCowCrazy2 said:

I use this website as a guide to see what countries I can ship airguns to as I only sell full power airguns. So the Norway info is wrong?
INTERNATIONAL AIRGUN POWER LEVELS


When you say approval do you mean you have to apply for a license or just show it to police?
In Finland if you own a firearms license you do not need to apply for a "Efficient Airguns License" for calibers above .25. You just need to inform the police that you got a bigger caliber airgun and upon request take it to the police station for inspection.

I have been thinking about Zans but they are pretty expensive and slugs. I guess I could do 1 box/tin of different ammo instead of a set 1000x10.

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I think thats wrong yeah, to keep airguns over 4.5mm you need to fill out a paper(3 copies) and take 1 of them to the Police station, it Will then take 2-8weeks (depending on where you live) before you get it back with a approval stamp. You then take the 2nd paper with you when shopping (store or private) so the seller can fill in the name of the airgun and id, you then need to send that paper to the Police again so they can make a "weapon card". And you also need a gunsafe to keep it in.

But its no problem for you to sell to norway, Its the buyers responsebility to have all this done before buying.

There are red and green lights on the charging stations that indicate full/low, but none on the batteries themselves.

beerthief said:

gulf balls were discussed a bit ago , consensus was "DO NOT SHOOT THEM "

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Don't shoot baseballs either

When you pull the trigger a sear releases a striker which allows the valve to open letting air flow to the projectile. The pressure drops within the receiver block allowing a second valve to impede air flow while the striker is pushed back against a spring which returns it to the starting position.

Anybody wanting to buy a XP badger .401 or pbba .457 I have them no leaks 600$ shipped for each.

I have a pbba .457 I'm wanting to sale 650$ perfect condition shoots good! No leaks

I got a XP badger .401 for sale 600$ shipped no leaks and shoots perfect good hunting gun and I have extra o rings for it

woogie_man said:

Is the barrel on the Uragan a wrap or paint? I am digging that

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I was admiring it myself. Eye catching it is!!!

This listing has been renewed

I just posted another make on thingiverse:

It shows the parts and hardware before assembly.

Thank you to the 25 shooters who joined us today in our final N50 match of our 2024 outdoor season. We had the best weather we've had all year. Calm winds, comfortable temperatures and great friends to spend the day with. Thanks especially to AJ for coming through on the awesome weather forecast.

It takes many hands to pull off the event that we enjoyed today and I want to thank our ROs, Mark Clemons and Paul Haubert for keeping us safe and in line. Set up and tear down helpers, Craig Laird, Paul Haubert and Eric Fisher and probably others who I am forgetting. Diana Thomas, Missy Richards, Nancy Haubert, Joe Ketcham, Tim Swan and Joe Haubert for your help at the scoring table and running targets. And to the countless helpers sweeping up all the brass afterwards. I sure have appreciated all of your help throughout the season.

We had a spur of the moment, unplanned and optional 6 card match today. 12 Shooters stuck around to shoot the second match. The winds kicked up as per usual at Meeker but we still had fun.

A special congratulations to Nancy Haubert for shooting her first 250 today!

We also handed out wooden plaques to the 3 highest match aggregate scores, in each class, of the entire N50 “Ohio Series”:

Factory Class:
We had an exciting last minute shake up when Joe Ketcham came from 4th place to over take 1st place by the scores he turned in today.
1st, Joe Ketcham, 2237-116X
2nd Bob Juengst, 2235-103X
3rd, Bobby Vance, 2230-96X

Sportsman Class:
1st, Ray Davis, 2209-74X
2nd, AJ Carey, 2136-75X

Pro Class:
1st, Mark Clemons, 2247-135X
2nd, Bob Juengst, 2115-34X

Pellet Class:
1st, Some old curmudgeon who shall remain anonymous, 2230-100X
2nd. Jeff Richards, 2208-72
3rd, Tim Swan, 2206-90

Women's Class:
1st, Diana Thomas, 2217-88X
2nd, Lani Leuthvillay, 2213-52X
3rd, Nancy Haubert, 1417-42X

Lani Leuthvillay and Bob Juengst weren't able to make it today so please let me know how I can get your award plaques to you?

You can also keep an eye on the your National Rankings to see where you placed against the rest of the N50 shooters across America:
Leaderboard — National 50 Benchrest

Leaderboard — National 50 Benchrest​

Meeker's own Joe Ketcham and Bob Juengst are holding 4th and 5th places respectively in the Factory Class. That's pretty impressive guys!

Thanks again for putting up with me and Lord willing and the crick doesn't rise, I look forward to seeing y'all again next season sometime in April, 2025.

Robert S. said:

yea they think if they tell you then than have to cut your tongue out. so you dont tell anyone

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Ya, it's a for them to know and you to find out . If they tell you then they have to kill you to keep it from spreading ..

I read this stuff on things in these forums and I'm amazed or dumbfounded on how it is ..lol .. crazy

It sounds like you have the hammer spring adjuster at maximum. That should be too much for a 130 bar regulator pressure. I think velocity should go up as you come down on the hammer spring. My P35-25 hammer spring would not work right at around 150 bar. The hammer would not release the air at higher pressure. I have not adjusted my P35-22 but it's setting from the factory is about 135- similar - and the hammer spring is not nearly max.

I would go down on hammer spring in either 1/2 turn or 1/4 turn increments noting the velocity until you see the velocity increase. Once it then starts to go back down you need to be shooting at least 3 shot groups and note the size. You want to be a bit below the maximum - the normal recommendation is 5% but I usually get better accuracy a bit above that. I just tuned a Bullshark in 22 that has a regulator set about 145 and it shot better at 2-3% below the maximum velocity. It also shot 18s well over 900 fps which I think is too fast. Fortunately it seems to like H&N Baracudas which are 21 grains. It is now tuned to shoot them about 850-860 fps which is about 3% below the maximum. Seems to be very efficient with this tune. Efficiency is the goal of setting the hammer spring less than the point of maximum velocity.

I’ve also wondered if air escapes around the valve stem during a shot. I’m not sure how it wouldn’t be doing that, maybe someone could explain that?
When you reassemble the gun, you can adjust the cocking rod so that it locks closed correctly, unless as Vetmx mentioned, the block is very worn.

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

OldDude said:

I have an older model. So, I had to order the ultra valve. When I received it, it looked identical to the one I had. AoA guys confirmed, the internals of the valves are different.

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Serial #AL0533 if that narrows the year of manufacturer.
Thanks to all who responded.

AshIII , I installed the barrel clamp and it did improve accuracy also.

This listing has been renewed

Sorry to bump my own thread but I’m literally unable to get past this. Really hoping someone has an idea

Berserkeley Mike said:

Tyler, I'm very impressed by your shot string, ~30fps spread over 30 shots (you might try 50psi higher starting pressure), is better than I saw on my stock Condor. And if you enjoyed tuning for that, I think you'll really enjoy a "Ring-loc" top hat orifice kit. MikeinPasadena has one NIB for $45 in the Classifieds, or Pyramyd has them for a couple bucks more. I tried one and two o-rings on my Condor, but they didn't do nearly as much as changing that top hat orifice. I bet you'll find that a smaller orifice (my money would be on the 0.145") and a little more hammer preload (dialed higher on the power wheel), will be even more efficient and consistent at that power level. You then also might find that with the smaller orifice, turning the power wheel will now allow you to adjust the power better, to fine tune it to a specific power level, and to flatten the edges of your power curve a little (more preload at the start and end, less in the middle). I still use one o-ring as it reduces the variation in velocity on my particular gun.
Have fun!
Mike

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I have been looking at those orifice kits, ill probably end up picking one up this week or next

mikaeleriksen91 said:

Can you get an airsoft more powerful, and how is it done or which parts need to be changed so that both will be able to function better but also withstand this better?

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Wrong forum, the mods will be by shortly to close this thread...

DesertSilver said:

I have air rifles I've paid $120 for used (thanks again Daryl boy) all the way up to a impact mk2. Only 2 are chicomm guns and 1 had a barrel that was drilled off center enough that I couldn't use the moderator because it clipped so bad. My Korean Sumatra has been gold. Only had problems with it leaking from the fill foster because the Oring stuck to the check valve seat. Easy fix unlike the Oring replacement for the impact regulator bore. What a PITA. I've got to say though my liberty has got to be the easiest PCP I have to work on. I hate the C1 on the impact. Biggest problem I've had with chicom PCPs is getting parts. Oh, I forgot, I have 3 chicom PCPs. I forgot about that POS Aspen which wasn't right from the start but because it was my first PCP I just lived with it. Now it's just a $400 paper weight.

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Ditch it, one man's treasure...