Ezana4CE said:

@Jay308 Interesting resolution to the issue with your Hawke Sidewinder. Can you link this thread with the thread that your referenced with the information that helped you remedy your issue? Please post a link to that thread in this one.



@Jay308 Do you think that you may have tightened your scope rings too tight in your mounting of your Athlon scope? Either way it’s good to read that you got things sorted out.

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Ring torque is good 15 in/lbs, same torque driver that I use on my 2k+ scopes. I’ll probably send it in to Athlon for them to check. That can be a symptom of over tightened rings though.

Congrats on the new arrival, sorry you're under the weather but that'll pass. Have a few PCPs and labelled some plastic jars to keep all those spare parts together for each. Any parts removed from gun, like moderator thread protector, and extra parts, like single-shot trays, go in gun-specific jar, too. Just grabbing appropriate jar, when working on an airgun, is easiest for me. WM

My fig tree just started to ripen. Starlings are never far behind. Gonna be some good porch shooting in the coming weeks.

To degas any gun i usually just loosen the reg gauge till it starts to leak and wait for it to stop. No big deal

Frank in Fairfield said:

Resale?
Whatever you can get.
Retail:
Pistol: $450.0

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beerthief said:

https://www.facebook.com/MidWestAirgunShow/ this Saturday you will probably find at least a few . worth the drive if you can ?
I have seen them for $250 and not beat up . PP700 for $170
And F2F talk the $$ down at least a few .

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Nice! Definitely worth the travel! I'm on a working man's budget!

They look great and for under $30 too! Thanks for the info

Congrats Derrick!!

jpott said:

Small game?

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Up to deer sized game above 35 cal.

student said:

thanks for posting this.
In your experience does a barrel ring help with accuracy or reproducibility of shots?
also interested in learning more of how you modified the platform, the trigger enhancement for example.
thank you

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Oh, one more thing, the barrel ring is a great stability component as well. The ring makes the GSL30 more rugged and durable. I dropped my rifle one time and if the barrel band was not on the rifle, there would have been a good possibility that my bottle would have been severely damaged. Instead, I ended up with two scratches.

KaosRifle said:

I have been wanting to try PETG, I have used ASA a lot. Any recommendations for brands for PETG. Also any advise on textured/smooth build plate and basic settings. I mostly do ASA and PLA and not sure if PETG is any different.

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If you have successfully printed with ASA, then PETG should be no problem. The PETG brands I've had good luck with are VoxelPLA, IIIDMax, ThriftyMake, Bambu Lab (regular PETG and PETG HF).

beerthief said:

I tried to get permission to shoot in the local dump . But it is located on city property

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Back in the day years ago, before all this touchy-feely crap you probably would’ve been welcome there

Got an R9 .20 Blue Lam from them a long time ago. Had them send it to Russ Best for a tune before I got it. Still my favorite after all these years. Still have a bunch of Beeman branded H+N pellets from them too.

Hey gd news my walmart has the hp pellets...6.40 a tin. I bought a few

Gerry52 said:

Glad you got it sorted. I knew Russell had the answer. Well versed in Bobcat knowledge.

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For sure
He could me through it with his eyes closed

Very glad to have met him

stovepipe said:

If my memory is correct (my Ronin is with my friend out of town at the moment), the short end cap is like you said -- not much to grab onto -- maybe not even 3/8", but it is a 6-sided shape so you can get a really large cresent wrench on it. The main body has 5 sides, so you can't get a cresent wrench on it, but you can really get a good grip on it with your hand. Warming it up might help too like Privateer said.

To be clear, the end that you are trying to unscrew from the main body is the end that screws onto the rifle. Hope that makes sense. Good luck. Try not to chew up the hex shaped end cap.

stovepipe

Edit: I think the 1st version of the Ronin did not have 6 sides on the end cap -- only 5 sides if my memory is correct. The 6-sided "wrenchable" end cap is only on the 2nd version. Again, I'm relying on an unreliable memory. If you have to use channel locks or some really big pliers on the end cap, just make sure you have cardboard or something around it so you don't chew it up. And if it's warm it should unscrew without much torque.

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You're correct! My older Ronin has a 5 sided cap.

It has the old style single transfer port. The other non-standard items include a Huma adjustable regulator and plenum extension.

I have no Leupold experience other than looking through a buddies. It was nice. I had to send my Athlon 10-40 back to them when it stopped tracking correctly. I paid for the shipping but had a new scope quickly and it works great. You don't need a receipt or return authorization or anything. Just fill out their form, put a copy in the box with the scope and send it to them. MUCH different experience than Leapers. I got a return authorization and everything from Leapers, paid to send it to them, and then they became completely unresponsive. I still will buy scope mounts or something from them but no more scopes. When Athlon has something that fits my application they will get more business.

Awesome thank you all for the quick replies and info.

wooferocau said:

Many here will argue...BUT ...from my own personal experience with FX ( M3,s) and several friends FX,s ( M3,s) ... POI is a frustrating reality. 2 friends actually sold their M3,s due solely to this aspect !!

My "Standard" M3 is anyone's guess most times in regards to POI.
My "Modded" M3 has been a LOOOONG ! journey of trial and tribulation and at time's .. pure frustration.
Its now to the point that "most" times its very enjoyable to use..

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This post is almost word for word what I would say. The only difference is one friend is on pellets with my old Impact and happy. The other friend is using one of my .25 barrels that I built but don’t use. And the last friend with an Impact .22 compact like mine brings me his every time I discover something with mine and he wants the same. I don’t mod his because I like him so much. I do it because even to this day the only difference between our guns is mine has a L-Tech and is black. But our tunes and speeds are different. He even uses the exact scope and rings I use. I even use my mod when testing his gun. I like doing it because my gun is the baseline and it’s very interesting.

The .25 guy wound up picking up a used M3 while waiting on his M4. I went over the M3, modified the components and slipped my barrel into the gun. It was fine and shot well set to the same numbers that I used on my gun. When the M4 arrived I got to mess with it and do some quick testing. The first thing is the backbone on the M4 is no thicker than the one on the M3. It was suffering from slow first shots like they all do and after testing another thing I look for in a slug shooting Impact, I told him I wasn’t messing with it.

I cast my own .257. I feel this question falls into more specifically what lenght of ammo and weight will your twist rate stabilize and is most accurate.

I believe a common twist rate in .257 is 1-14 . That being said from my experience

1-14 stabilized 55gr to 92 grn.

Best accuracy came from 70grn and 61grn.

I have a noe hp mold that I had modified to cast 61grn....the most accurate ammo I've shot. 257420 in 73grn was also excellent.
Aresnal 85 grn Spitzer that I had modified to cast at 75grn was also excellent.
Aresnal 92grn noble was also excellent.
I preferred to shoot ammo in the weight that allowed the gun (depending on barrel lenght) to shoot 1005fps to 1010fps and have least amount of muzzle flip without guzzling air for reasonable shot count.

60 to 65 grain hp is my most preferred overall in a texan for power level, bc, shot count, etc

Muzzle flip plays a part in accuracy, shot cycle and the ability to keep scope on target.

I preferred 61grn at 1015 fps as the minimum grain weight to buck wind and offered least muzzle flip for the weight of the gun.

Now for a bench setup that was heavier setup I preferred 85grn as heavier bench gun would buck muzzle flip and heavier ammo would buck wind a tad better and offer better bc.

Ideally 90grn is best for ultra long range if you can keep speed 1000 fps or better and the gun is heavy enough to mitigate muzzle flip.

The standard is a hydro dipped no paint. Shorty primed with urethane paint not sure what might come next.

bthurman said:

These are not the typical Evanix, We will be announcing this evening on AGN and our website these new units are Exclusive to Veradium Air. The Evanix Plus Line of semi auto.
So just a hint all new valve system and hammer system we developed these from blank factory valve bodies, much more efficeient use of air when it comes to operating the semi auto function. Less power required to operate it, and more FPE down the barrel, Ok enough in this thread keep a eye out.
We are the Factory Authorized Evanix parts and service center for USA.

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Now that is GREAT to hear!!!

Treefrog said:

Is there a pin in that rear scope mount? If it goes in the spring tube, it could be the problem. Pull the scope mounts off and see what happens.

Cheers,

J~

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Thank you. I already found the problem. Cause mod 240’s main spring is weak power so the friction hold them together. I found from some old chinese low power springer video.

Just watch out for interference. Probably not likely to happen like in this video. I think I’d grab an athlon.

Another vote for the Titan. I have a 5-25x56, glass is clear and good colors. Would love to try an Athlon tho.