I have several RPB barrels. Never had to polish one of them to shoot polymags. Those barrel come with a mirror bore to begin with.

When l first started field target hunter, l used a 4-12 Vantage. 12x was the max at the time. It worked well for me. Don

Leo C said:

I ordered an FX Impact M4 with a .25 caliber, 600mm barrel today and bought some AEA 30.2gr slugs. What speed and pressure (in bar) should I tune it to for accurate shooting at 100 yards or more? Occasionally, I’ll also shoot in my backyard at around 35 yards. What distance should I zero my scope for optimal performance? thank you

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you won't know how accurate it is until you shoot it, try 880fps to start with and go up 20fps at a time to see if there's any improvement to be had. Dial in your scope according to the distance you shoot at, the setting isn't set in stone nor should it be permanent when you would shoot at various distances all the time, unless of course you want to just set it and forget if you preferred to use hold over or hold under to compensate.

Fellow Michigander here. I bought my first airgun from them. Awesome group!

I have noticed that many bench rifle's & even hard core Rail systems use dovetail mounting for optics. There must be something to it vs other systems. I remember Davidson 1/2 x 60 & Kelby,Harrels had rings for em. I even think early RAW has 1/2x60 as I have Harrells & D3 Davidson rings that I use on a RAW. Is it a better way to stay parallel to bore or just simpler to machine.? Seems nowadays it wouldn't matter with advanced machining but I definitely still see em on Rail systems that are very extreme. BR units.

SteveV said:

Go to Airgun Revisions, page 4 of the parts section. I have one in my M-Rod .25, they work very well, as in worth the coin!

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I’m interested in getting one of these. How do you actually degas the rifle once this is installed? Thanks!

This is a pretty good video explaining basic tuning for the M4 and also shows some recommended setting Nate got from FX for the various models/calibers:

this smells so much like a bad AI summary some airgun...thing.

Airmanator said:

I don't need glasses. I can see the E sign. Its just we Americans are not familiar with euros or pound or whatever they used oversea. I just thought all Europe use euros and the E sign stands for euro. Why the hell would the make an E sign for pounds. Should change their sign to P sign lol. Didn't make any sense to me for pound to be an E sign. There is no E in pounds. This is why I hate ordering stuff over sea. May be my last time ordering oversea.

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I've been AMERICAN for 72 yrs I only have a HS education, but I know the difference between them
knowledge vs unknowing,,, as for knowing the "why the hell make an E sign for Pounds" comment I don't know or care
but they are SYMBOLS and not the letter E
now you know also, we all make mistakes, it is a learning process,,, I have made more than my share
I've showed you how to make € , EURO
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,---------and a £ , British Pound Sterling
and still ya do the E and P

EDIT: I self edited my comments, I got a little political Cheers

I watched the video when it came out and had a good laugh. Nothing new here. Every barrel is different and what his barrel does is only relevent to him, and that barrel. Everyone that is not happy with their groups should try it and accept the results for what they are, not what they want them to be, and that is what he did. It was a good video in that regard.

FWB127 said:

Just recently sold mine

View attachment 508544

View attachment 508545

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Wow! That is a beautiful gun.

I’ve ordered huggetts from both krale and airgun heaven. No issues shipping to the US. I would check some of the british sites for parts first. Bagnall and kirkwood, chambers, and airgun spares. They show what parts are available/in stock. Utah orders from fx directly I guess, so they can get more parts, but it took at least 4 weeks to arrive to them. I’ve ordered parts a few times from Utah, and communication was hit or miss.

bchannell said:

I'm learning how to tune my new Crown, which I have .177, 22 and 25 barrels for. I've been getting some pretty good results. Nothing earth shaking but pretty decent and accuracy is really good.

I have a question. When tuning and getting pretty good results, I was ok with it. Then while toying with AA 10.3gr pellets, and getting %ES of 1.6 to 2.0 %. Then I starting toying with the hammer adjuster and at #20 with a reg pressure of 112 bar and the xfer set at 117/22, HOLY COW, it shot 22 shots in one hole, with a %ES of 0.69%. I have a Brocock Sniper HR, a Cricket Carbine, a Katran and a BSA R10 and all with keep ES below 10 fps and %ES at 1.0 or less, but nothing this close to perfection.

Anyone else notice that a tiny adjustment results in an amazing difference in stats and accuracy??

Also, the new Garmin chronograph is the bomb for tuning. If you need a new chrono, it's the one to buy for sure.

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Sounds like you hit on a really good tune. What velocity were you getting and at what range was the target? The best source for how to tune a Crown when you are trying new pellet weights or calibers is a video by Sub12Airgunners (I will attach below). While Geoff is tuning a Sub12 ft-lb (legal UK limit), the explanation he provides and the process he uses apply well to any air rifle. This is my favorite air gun YouTube channel.

Also you might want to drop down to the Target Shooting Challenge forum here on AGN. The 30yd Challange is now in its 3rd or 4th year with thousands of shooter inputs. EPG does a great job of moderating the forum and he posts monthly leaderboards for .177 and .22 at 30 and 40 yds.

Cheers,
Greg

Sergey1972 said:

No worries. You don't need the filter in the test unless you think it's leaking. The idea is to have a baseline that is quick and repeatable so you can check performance sporadically or if you think there is an issue. My manual states 30seconds to 4500 psi (on factory length hose). It was faster when I received it but now with time it's at the 30seconds. If you are filling an air tank and 15 minutes in you think it's not going fast enough the 30second test will at least confirm sealing and function to the end of the factory hose. The filter probably takes 3 or 4 minutes to fill so if you want to establish a base line with the filter, go for it. I have a filter I use if filling tanks and I have it recorded somewhere (or maybe will record it on the next fill).

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Well you got me to thinking just what is my average re-fill time for my 186cc AA .22, from about 160 to 250 bar. 56 seconds.
After installation of the Omega Clean Air filter my fill time averaged 2.56 minutes. yes takes a little longer but I think it worth it.

err just remembered I didnt take pics....

did put in a small nylon top hat. added ~3mm of net preload.... added 9 ish fps to the average, but still legal, Need to shoot it in some more

bchannell said:

I would call Utah Air and give them the part # 5113 and they'll fix you right up. I just ordered a kit for my Crown from them with some extras and they have it all.

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I contacted them and still awaiting a response. Thanks

Elgreco said:

It seems u dont have a good understanding for the use of the red dot in conjiction with a scope.

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I don't doubt that haha. If I ever decide to use the reflex because I wanna scope for longer range, we'll see. But, the theory of sighting the reflex sights and the scopes are the same right? They need to be sighted while leveled and straight above the barrel. That's why people tilt their rifles with offset reflex. You can't sight an offset when the reflex isn't level.

I could not get the power necessary for slugs with the 550mm standard version, the 700mm barrel standard should without issue.

Right track, wrong train. Consider drying the air entering the compressor pump. I feed mine with dry compressed air at < 10 PSI. DO NOT pressurize the inlet air you would think that would be helpful, the opposite is true. The motor will not start with pressure on the piston either. I'm not certain if filtering the input through desiccant is effective. My shop air is dry to a minus 150 F dewpoint and filtered to 10 micron. Not everyone has a dental compressed air system to do that. Compressing the air literally squeezes the water out of it. I live in a very wet place. I think drying the input air has merit, but really can't remove much water without compression, unlikely the juice is worth the squeeze attempting to dry the input air supply to the pump. A big molecular sieve type HPA filter is likely the best and most practical method to protect your guns from wet air. If you live in a place where air conditioning is a requirement to live running your pump in an air conditioned space is very helpful to minimize water.

museguy said:

Hi @Firewalker,
Just a quick note to thank you. I received the M60b .30 and went to the range on Saturday. New gun, new scope at 50 yards all on the paper, I am impressed. The M60b is a step up from my Avenger .25 in quality. Thank you for your encouragement.

p.s. I was surprised at the attention the M60b received at the range, lots of positive feedback.

View attachment 515633

M60b .30 with Vector Sentinel 10-40x50

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Thats awesome!

OverWatch Precision said:

I’m not that good at doing videos but I really do enjoy shooting slugs with my BRK Ghost!

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Are those the .250 or .251 slugs?

When ordering a custom stock, and I have from both CS Stocks (Great Britain) and SC Stocks (Steve Corcoran) there still may be some final adjustments made to fit your action. My SC stock fit my R7 but not my HW30. Even Weihrauch doesn’t get exact tolerances. Also the fit needs to be not so tight as to blow the stock out from the movement of the action but not to loose that the action isn’t properly held.

BABz58 said:

Maybe your .177s have a smoother shot cycle than the 19ftlb HW95? Maybe you just need to get used to that?
Just thinking out loud

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I had another R9 (same gun) that was nothing like this one along with HW97 and TX200. This one shoots 15 fpe.

Centercut said:

Jeff, at EBR you shot .22 RD Monster Deep at 50Y and 75Y, but at 100Y you shot .30 caliber due to flyer and spiraling concerns, correct? AEA 50.5 grain at ??? fps...

Steve, those were exceptional cards, but I remember you started to have lots of flyers/spiraling, and in fact did not shoot that gun at RMAC that year and bought a .22 Daystate Red Wolf HP to shoot instead....

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Mostly correct. The HPX shot crazy good for a while after I first got it especially with the couple tins Mike N gave me initially. The next batch I bought from AOA was when things went wonky. Also tried some FX rebranded. Those might have both been when JSB changed their molds, I'd say probably so. I've kind of lost memory of the time frames of RMAC and EBR and what happened. I do know that at RMAC was when I had the huge flyers.

I had some bedding problems with screw spacing holes on the custom wood stock of the HPX. Bobby fixed that and re-bedded it last year. This seemed to help. But this spring I found what was a ever worsening problem for who knows how long. LSS, the receiver screws came loose from the lower part of the action enough to become obvious when I took the gun out of the safe one day. Once tightened the gun shoots slugs fantastic again. What's funny is when I was shooting the N50 @100Y with slugs last February it'd still do 1"-2.5" at 100Y with the ever so slightly loose reciever??!!

Once those screws were tightened again I went out to my friends place and hit a 1" spinner 9 times in a row at 100Y. That was with the swaged 42gr custom slugs and the barrel made to shoot those. Man that put a smile on my face.

A couple weeks ago I got 46/48 at UFT with the 17.7 twist barrel Bobby fit to the HPX. I had turned it down from 67 fpe to 49 fpe and used the 32.3gr Altaros slugs for Ben's upcoming new match format. Very happy with it currently.

Well there you go.

The best tool for maintaining a break barrel is a friend who is good at working on a break barrel.