FX Switching barrel to different cal.

I'm about to embark on a caliber change converting my .30 barrel to .25 using the Huma kit.
Can anyone point to any references or offer any sage advise RE O-ring placement between the barrel and barrel housing? I was assuming even placement down the length of the barrel, but I did see one u-tuber suggest the O-rings should be biased towards the muzzle. It appeared to be this guys first time changing a barrel, though, so am looking for reference. Obviously I'll see what comes out with my barrel, but these O-rings are definitely moving when inserting and removing the barrel from the barrel housing.


To answer (F)Arigunner's question (even though he wasn't asking me), I'm switching to .25 because I'm done with the JSB et. al. 24 grain MRD's. I'm seeking better BC and accuracy at 50 and 100 yards from a pellet, not a slug.
It's been learning to understand and tune the Maverick.



Anyway... Here's to blaming the gun and not the idiot behind it!
May be barbaric but I ditched the O-rings and just used the perfect amount of painter's tape spaced out and wrapped along the liner. This makes the whole barrel assembly a lot more studier and stable and reduces POI shifts.
 
May be barbaric but I ditched the O-rings and just used the perfect amount of painter's tape spaced out and wrapped along the liner. This makes the whole barrel assembly a lot more studier and stable and reduces POI shifts.
Thanks for the reply!

Interesting idea.
Any tips or SNAFUs RE the process?
Heard tell of anyone else doing this or similar?
I was considering using electrical tape to hold the O-rings where I align them, but hadn't considered stacking the tape the full width of the gap.

BTW, I did remove my barrel and found that the O-rings were biased towards the muzzle. Measuring from the breach, the three O-rings appear to have been installed @ 50%, 62%, and 75% down the barrel.
It is apparent to me that the O-rings have rolled some distance along the barrel as it was inserted and removed from the housing. I saw them roll when exiting and there are 'oil' marks along the barrel from the O-rings.
 
Thanks for the reply!

Interesting idea.
Any tips or SNAFUs RE the process?
Heard tell of anyone else doing this or similar?
I was considering using electrical tape to hold the O-rings where I align them, but hadn't considered stacking the tape the full width of the gap.

BTW, I did remove my barrel and found that the O-rings were biased towards the muzzle. Measuring from the breach, the three O-rings appear to have been installed @ 50%, 62%, and 75% down the barrel.
It is apparent to me that the O-rings have rolled some distance along the barrel as it was inserted and removed from the housing. I saw them roll when exiting and there are 'oil' marks along the barrel from the O-rings.
I installed a carbon fiber sleeve. No need for spacing, getting the right thickness, etc. For all we spend on these things the $30 was a drop in the bucket.
 
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For better knockdown power.
Meh, that's what I thought, I only use my dead stock Mav. .22 compact with RMR/FX Slugs, good on ground squirrels to 125 yards. I take my .25 VP just so it doesn't get jealous. Ok, I sort of lied on the dead stock, using a slug probe but the pellet port, sips air.
 
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Thanks for the reply!

Interesting idea.
Any tips or SNAFUs RE the process?
Heard tell of anyone else doing this or similar?
I was considering using electrical tape to hold the O-rings where I align them, but hadn't considered stacking the tape the full width of the gap.

BTW, I did remove my barrel and found that the O-rings were biased towards the muzzle. Measuring from the breach, the three O-rings appear to have been installed @ 50%, 62%, and 75% down the barrel.
It is apparent to me that the O-rings have rolled some distance along the barrel as it was inserted and removed from the housing. I saw them roll when exiting and there are 'oil' marks along the barrel from the O-rings.
SNAFUs would be getting the tape too thick making removal of the barrel difficult later. I wanna say I tried the tape on both sides of the oring first and that did not work out as the orings still hopped over the tape. I would agree a CF sleeve might be a better route, but at the time those became popular they also became sold out everywhere I looked. The tape works for me as my .30 700mm is a dedicated .30 cal. I also have other things going on with the OEM shroud, so I need the shroud.
 
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