I was today years old, when I realized... (scope zeroing).

Just remember your always moving the bullet to where you want it to land when your adjusting left and right and up and down. Bullet hits low, you want to adjust it UP.
Like I finally figured out. When I adjust the scope, I'm not moving the crosshairs to the POI, I'm moving the POI (in the field of view) to the crosshairs.
 
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Just remember your always moving the bullet to where you want it to land when your adjusting left and right and up and down. Bullet hits low, you want to adjust it UP.
To confuse it even more, my brain works in the way that the I don't read what the turret says, I imagine the reticle is a nut on a screw. The turret is the screw being driven. I guess that's what I get for being a mechanical turbo autismo. This post will be the stick in the wheel.
 
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To confuse it even more, my brain works in the way that the I don't read what the turret says, I imagine the reticle is a nut on a screw. The turret is the screw being driven. I guess that's what I get for being a mechanical turbo autismo. This post will be the stick in the wheel.
Finally a good simple comment .
 
So, now I am really confused. My pellets are hitting low and to the left of the point of aim. So, I need to turn more to the right and more up. which is backwards from what one would think by looking at the arrows on the dials. Or do I have It backwards?
If they are low/left, hold the RIFLE still, look through the eyepiece and turn the knob(s) so the IMAGE moves UP AND RIGHT under the crosshairs until the point of impact is lined up under the crosshairs.

It's important to try and hold the rifle completely still. The only thing that should move is the image behind the crosshairs. The better you can do that, the closer to being zeroed you will be.
 
If they are low/left, hold the RIFLE still, look through the eyepiece and turn the knob(s) so the IMAGE moves UP AND RIGHT under the crosshairs until the point of impact is lined up under the crosshairs.

It's important to try and hold the rifle completely still. The only thing that should move is the image behind the crosshairs. The better you can do that, the closer to being zeroed you will be.
Hard to hold the rifle that still and make adjustments. Is it safe then to say left is right and up is down?
 
Hard to hold the rifle that still and make adjustments. Is it safe then to say left is right and up is down?
That's the easiest way for me to explain it, because if you're using a rest and looking through the scope, it LOOKS LIKE the reticles are still and the VIEW is moving. So from THAT perspective, Yes. Up is down and left is right.

BUT!!! If you're not looking through the scope, and getting that "backwards perspective," then the markings on the adjustment towers are up = up (POI moves up) and left = left (POI moves left).
 
Hard to hold the rifle that still and make adjustments. Is it safe then to say left is right and up is down?
You're over-thinking it. If the point of impact (POI) needs to move to the right, then follow the arrow with the "R" on the turret and turn it in that direction. If the POI needs to move up, turn the elevation turret in the direction of the "U" arrow.
 
You're over-thinking it. If the point of impact (POI) needs to move to the right, then follow the arrow with the "R" on the turret and turn it in that direction. If the POI needs to move up, turn the elevation turret in the direction of the "U" arrow.
I have a warped view of the world 🤪
 
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Hard to hold the rifle that still and make adjustments. Is it safe then to say left is right and up is down?

If you're going to look through the scope and make adjustments... Sorry if I'm repeating advice already given... Sometimes explained a slightly different way may help.

Shoot a 3-shot group (or even a single shot, if you're confident) using some sort of bench rest to help you steady the rifle. Keep the POA (point of aim) the same... right on the bullseye no matter where the rounds hit. While looking through the scope and holding the rifle STEADY on the bullseye. Now... DON'T move the rifle.... Have a FRIEND turn the turrets for you until the 3-shot group is in the crosshair. Verbally guide him on which way you need to go and tell him when to stop. Hopefully that makes sense.

I found this short video.

Here's another one:
 
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Ok people, do not try to overthink zeroing, just follow 2 simple rules:

Yes, for zeroing scoped (air)guns there are just two (and only two, not more!) things you need to memorize and make it a fact you can remember and recite in your sleep:

When you aim at a target, you want the bullet (or pellet/slug/bb/whatever) to go to that specific place, so if the aimpoint and the POI are not in the same place, The bullet point of impact (POI) needs to go somewhere; it needs to move to the point you aim at. (Simply because that is where you aimed at because you want the bullet to go there to that specific place!

So the 2 rules are:
  1. By dialling the turrets you steer the bullet/POI where it needs to go (not the reticle and not the target, you steer the bullet!)​

  2. If the bullet/POI needs to go Low and or Left you turn the respective turrets cLockwise.​

That is all you have to remember! Just make it a mantra: Low and Left is cLockwise, Low and Left is cLockwise, Low and Left is cLockwise (3 L’s after each other)

(and yes if you need to go Up and or Right, you need to dial coUnteRclockwise, but again, you do NOT need to remember that, as it logically opposites the Left, Low, cLockwise rule!)

This is it, it really is as simple as that!

Hope this helps somebody…