N/A peep sight on a hw50s
- Thread starter keith1
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Yes, I used to have a scope on mine. But changed it to peep sights. Only thing I'd say is store it with the breech open.
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Peep sight for HFT ? guestimate ranging , interesting . I know a person that might be able to do that ?
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They shoot very flat in .177 with the H&N 9.57's at about 13 fpe. Goldilocks rifle and pellet. Good out to 55 yards easy.
My .22 has a bit of a loop and would be horrible for a peep sight.
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It shouldn't. lock up is set by a metal step on the breech block sitting on top of the fixed wedge. The breech seal should compress until the breech block sits on the step. You will however have POI shift when breech seals are new and at their thickest. that's because they hold the gun off proper lock up until they flatten with use. Storing them open will only prolong the time it takes for them to flatten to the right size. The compression and elasticity of the breech seal is engineered into breech seal durometer and taken into account when they design the gun.
Leaving the guns open is a throw back to the days of leather breech seals that would compress, harden and lose their ability to seal. Those days are gone. Weihrauch synthetic breech seals have enough spring in their material (Urethane?) to last decades. The only break barrel Weihrauch breech seal I've seen legitimately bad was a 42 year old Beeman R8. That was hard and crumbled when I removed it. It was actually still working before I removed it. so technically it wasn't bad. I replaced it because I was tuning the rifle and it looked like azz.
Because of everything listed above stay with factory breech seals on Weihrauchs. I've had problems with most of the aftermarket ones. They are usually too hard and or too thick which can cause barrel droop and POI issues. Fresh thick Weihrauch breech seals can temporally hold a gun off lock up and or cause POI shift. A tiny smear of silicone grease on the breech seal face will help the gun close fully and repeatable until the seal compresses to the right thickness.
I hth
Ron
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Thats a good bit of info. I had mine for a few years and poi kept shifting with breech closed. I'll try leaving it closed. Id think I would have left it closed long enough. Close to 2 years? Maybe something else is amiss.
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Either something else is wrong or you didn't use it enough. The breech seal won't compress to size unless you use it. Using it subjects the seal to compression heat, lubricants and plain old exercise. Leaving them closed only wont likely flatten the seal to size. The seals new are a clear almost white. They turn a clear almost amber color with use. People often send me breech seals they brought with their kits. I almost always return the new seals in the box. Breaking in a breech is part of breaking in a gun. Putting a fresh seal in there sets you back on getting you to where you want.
You can message me for my phone number and i walk you through any problems you mightv have with that rifle.
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No matter what sight you use, your effective hunting distance is that at which you can consistently hit a target the size of the quarry's kill zone. Most shooters find an aperture sight a great advance over a breech-mounted "notch" sight, but less effective than a scope. It's the hunter's responsibility to practice with his chosen setup until he knows his limits (and HFT seems like a good way to establish those with peeps?).
Aperture sights are a big field, with many interesting sights and accessories available, including eyepieces with adjustable aperture size - an absolute must for hunting or competition IMHO - and even low-level magnification (pic: vintage Anschutz sight + vintage Gehmann 1.5x magnifying iris, on a Weihrauch rifle).
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I have more of my guns equipped like this than scopes. Even with a lower power scope I see just too much of my unsteadiness, not so much with an aperture. One advantage of some scopes is like a mil dot, or similar reticule with hash marks so you can learn and estimate drop at various ranges, Not so easy with an aperture sight, unless you could have a globe front with some tiny dots or cross wires for different ranging marks.
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Ya,but, all that darn breech seal causing all that poi shifting ya cant really hit nuttin..
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Every time ive taken mine out after storing with breech closed, Ive had to adjust sights. Its not like the gun got banged around or anything. Ive had it several years. What would your takeaway be???Ya,but, all that darn breech seal causing all that poi shifting ya cant really hit nuttin..
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That's called a springer. Most of them don't shoot to their last zero until warmed up. Most powder burners as well. Nice army men btw.
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What would you consider to be "warmed up"? Genuine question. If cold zero can't be repeated, then it's not much use as a hunter, so what is the trick there? Just shoot it cold? Again, genuine question. If cold and warm zero (assuming they are different POI) were the same consistently, I suppose a shooter could adjust for this. But it overall seems less than ideal.
Can't say I have that experience with powder guns either, but I don't have a ton of those. But it does make sense to some degree just due to expansion and contraction of materials.
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Indeed, but adjusting sights every time I use the gun has them laughing, until they're not
from what has been said (and from reading I've done elsewhere), it sounds like the gun may very well still not be broken in yet. I havn't shot it excessively like some of my others. Which it seems may be required.Upvote 0
What ammo are you using?
I collect low-to-medium power older springers, and lean toward pellets that get out of the gun as quickly as possible - lighter weight, smaller skirt diameter, softer lead. In other words, minimize the effect of recoil movement. No miracles will ensue, mind you - it's only one of many factors to consider - but it may help temper the delta between cold and warm behavior. Air Arms Falcons, JSB Exact 7.3's and 7.9's often come best in my old HW 30's, HW 55's, and Diana 27's.
I collect low-to-medium power older springers, and lean toward pellets that get out of the gun as quickly as possible - lighter weight, smaller skirt diameter, softer lead. In other words, minimize the effect of recoil movement. No miracles will ensue, mind you - it's only one of many factors to consider - but it may help temper the delta between cold and warm behavior. Air Arms Falcons, JSB Exact 7.3's and 7.9's often come best in my old HW 30's, HW 55's, and Diana 27's.
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I agree guns for hunting you need predictable cold shots. Unfortunately most springers aren't good at that. When you find one that is you treasure it. There's certain things that can be done to to minimize that. It's a long list. Sometimes it works sometimes it don't. It has alot to do with piston seal design and fit. Lubricant type and how its applied can make a difference as well. As Mike mentioned you'll find some pellets are more prone to needing warm up shots. typiclly tighter pellets do. Too loose is NG either. In your gun I've gotten the best power and performance out of FTTs, RWS hobbies and Superpoints. The last two fit looser but not too loose and are more likely to shoot true cold. I used the RWS pellets in my 22 Hw50 for squirrels and sparrows.
Here's something that happens that drove me nuts for a long time. Maybe its what's going on with you. I'll shoot my guns for sometimes hundreds of shots to get them sighted in perfectly, to get my best groups or to just have fun. After 25 or 30 shots velocities start to drop a tad and the poi will start to slide in any direction. I may follow the slide with the scope adjustments to stay on target as I shoot sometimes hundreds of shots in a session. By the end of the session the rifle is shooting markedly slower and the scope has been adjusted far from where it was when the gun was cold at the start of the session.
Now you put the gun a way everything goes cold and the scope is left adjusted to a warm gun from a long session. Now the first shot is faster and far off your POA. If you want the gun for hunting sight it in within the first 20 shots. If you want to shoot it for groups don't adjust the scope for that. Let the groups move around off target. it'll have no effect on their size.
If you want to shoot your POA (army men) for a long session. Mark your turrets where you were zeroed at the very beginning of the session and return them there before you put the gun away. Then your cold shot should be close.
There's reasons why the velocity drops and the POI wanders on long sessions that I haven't been able to fix yet. It's tied to compression heat and the thermal expansion of parts. Until I get my shop up I'll have to live with it. You'll find this situation gets acerbated by high ambient temps and bright sunlight. Your altitude may not help either.
Then there's a million reasons for a gun that wont group. Group size should remain fairly consistent early on. On hot sunny days groups will go bad on long session from thermal expansion.
maybe this helps. I hope so
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