In being specific ... used a barrel off a STEYR LG-110FT Best we know there high grade LW's. was a 12g choked 16mm diameter.
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FX Flimsy fx impact barrel
- Thread starter Lahtide
- Start date
You can put your trigger block in the mill and go up a cap screw size for some minimal improvement like I did. The 700 not only shifts when you man handle the barrel, it cracks like a whip on high power shots to a degree. I've got it to where I can lean the gun up on things and use a soft backpack case and poi stays. The tune is for the barrel whip and the yokozuna minus one baffle got me onto a node for 75 fpe.
It's a pain but it's the gun we chose.
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I had a little mishap with my M3 barrel on my Fx a week and a half ago. Went ground squirrel hunting and discovered they are already down for the year. Then I tripped on a drip irrigation line and dropped my gun. Tried to sight it in and the scope ran out of adjustment on windage before it zeroed. So I removed the barrel and rolled it around. It didn’t appear bent so I reinstalled it and that took care of the problem. Thought it might be a disaster at first but seems to shoot just like it used to.
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Fwiw I'm not being combative or contrarian to op, I've just already walked this road. In the beginning silicone lube on barrel points worked to get it to return to position too. 
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Op lit a fire under me to make sure im not selling bologna. Got the impact out I haven't touched in months except tipping it over in its case in the closet. Reg is right where I left it (only because of huma) zulus pulled a range and other than a little Kentucky windage it was right in for a 60 yard pinecone shot in the wind. I zeroed in 70 degree weather and it's 100 today. Not to shabby. I forgot how hilariously quiet that gun is. It's a 700mm impact, or at least a ton of aftermarket parts comprising one.
Best of luck op, I might suggest a lw conversion and one of the top rail ribcage things that support the barrel. It becomes fully rigid at that point, my hunting partner uses one on his slug shooting 500mm maverick. If you have a job machine shop around you can really let your ideas go wild if you don't have the tools.
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When you fall with a gun made out of a bunch of pieces, it can now be on a bind. Sometimes you have to relax more than just the barrel to get it back to normal. Just depends on what kind of hit the puzzle took.
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Yea it seemed like just grass it landed in but I kinda had to toss it to the side so I wouldn’t land on it. Worst part is the damage to my new scope. It bent the windage dial and I sent it back for repair.
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Yep. But there’s a little more work involved than just a wham bam machine job. The greatest barrel can still have you chasing slugs and consistency if the machinist doesn’t know airguns. They can be fickle with slugs.
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There is nothing worse than hitting the deck with $3k+ gun and scope. I don’t even like to talk about it.
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Yea it will all turn out ok I think. Scope has a warranty and there was no damage to the gun but like you say heartbreak with a 3 k gun. Put another scope on it that I had but all the ground squirrels are down for the year here so not much to hunt for me.
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The biggest problem I am seeing when people replacing or just removing the barrel ---- most of them don't relax the "system" by degassing it entirely first.
I was playing with barrels many times (saying barrel tube and not only the liners).
Degass the gun;
Loosen all the 3mm screws that holds the Impact parts together;
Remove the barrel or replace with other one, holding with two hands wiggle the parts a little bit. Do not hold it in a bench vice yet;
Start finger tightening the 3mm screws, finger tight only. Do not fully tighten one then go to next and next fully tighten...
Start all over again in sequence, but now tighten more;
if you wish now you can mount it in a vice and tighten again at this time to full torque specs. I am tightening the 3mm to 1.8 to 2.0 Nm.
This way all the parts will be aligned and seated in neutral tension.
I cannot imagine anybody would need to replace the backbone top plate - unless for cosmetics.
But this just me venting
I was playing with barrels many times (saying barrel tube and not only the liners).
Degass the gun;
Loosen all the 3mm screws that holds the Impact parts together;
Remove the barrel or replace with other one, holding with two hands wiggle the parts a little bit. Do not hold it in a bench vice yet;
Start finger tightening the 3mm screws, finger tight only. Do not fully tighten one then go to next and next fully tighten...
Start all over again in sequence, but now tighten more;
if you wish now you can mount it in a vice and tighten again at this time to full torque specs. I am tightening the 3mm to 1.8 to 2.0 Nm.
This way all the parts will be aligned and seated in neutral tension.
I cannot imagine anybody would need to replace the backbone top plate - unless for cosmetics.
But this just me venting
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I did to remove tolerance stacking that resulted in bad windage inconsistencies from 30 to 200 yards. 1 piece backbone fixed it.The biggest problem I am seeing when people replacing or just removing the barrel ---- most of them don't relax the "system" by degassing it entirely first.
I was playing with barrels many times (saying barrel tube and not only the liners).
Degass the gun;
Loosen all the 3mm screws that holds the Impact parts together;
Remove the barrel or replace with other one, holding with two hands wiggle the parts a little bit. Do not hold it in a bench vice yet;
Start finger tightening the 3mm screws, finger tight only. Do not fully tighten one then go to next and next fully tighten...
Start all over again in sequence, but now tighten more;
if you wish now you can mount it in a vice and tighten again at this time to full torque specs. I am tightening the 3mm to 1.8 to 2.0 Nm.
This way all the parts will be aligned and seated in neutral tension.
I cannot imagine anybody would need to replace the backbone top plate - unless for cosmetics.
But this just me venting
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I’m right there with you. I have three sitting in the gun room on bipods. But I had to chuckle when I thought about a Kalibrgun, AGT, Taipan, RAW, AAA, or Skout owners reading your very true instructions. Probably thinking WTH is he talking about. Who wants to worry about all that with an airgun. Big picture it’s silly. But as an owner it’s necessary to dot all I’s and cross all T’s with any Impact.The biggest problem I am seeing when people replacing or just removing the barrel ---- most of them don't relax the "system" by degassing it entirely first.
I was playing with barrels many times (saying barrel tube and not only the liners).
Degass the gun;
Loosen all the 3mm screws that holds the Impact parts together;
Remove the barrel or replace with other one, holding with two hands wiggle the parts a little bit. Do not hold it in a bench vice yet;
Start finger tightening the 3mm screws, finger tight only. Do not fully tighten one then go to next and next fully tighten...
Start all over again in sequence, but now tighten more;
if you wish now you can mount it in a vice and tighten again at this time to full torque specs. I am tightening the 3mm to 1.8 to 2.0 Nm.
This way all the parts will be aligned and seated in neutral tension.
I cannot imagine anybody would need to replace the backbone top plate - unless for cosmetics.
But this just me venting
Upvote 0