N/A What did you name your airgun

Mine are Holy Crap! 1,2 & 3 That's because all never cease to amaze me, no matter how long I've had them. I think I'm aware of everything they can do & they pull some feat that just surprises the hell outa me. Wish everyone could experience that! I have a feeling that with my newest acquisition of a .22 slug gun I'll be in for a lot of those moments (Edgun R3 long). I've already had my fair share of those moments with it :p
 
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Dont name my guns, only living things get names inanimate objects are just that. Also dont get sentimental about them they are just a tool that can be replaced with another one if I choose to sell one. But on the other hand I do try to take very good care of my tools.
Besides my first three Weihrauchs I don't normally name inanimate objects. That was really done in reference to the Hw50 often being called the goldilocks Weihrauch and being easier for my wife to understand which gun I was talking about. Heck I had a boat i used 4 times or more a week for 18 years that I never named.

Still I have more sentimental feelings for some objects than most people and some pets that can come and go throughout life. Some inanimate objects can bring you joy by their function alone or remind you of special times and or people. I have a few special items I'd prefer keep over a most of the people in my life. Including some family. Lol
 
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Dont name my guns, only living things get names inanimate objects are just that. Also dont get sentimental about them they are just a tool that can be replaced with another one if I choose to sell one. But on the other hand I do try to take very good care of my tools.
I'm a Gunsmith , 20 years , and a Auto mechanic 40 yrs , but now in retirement . I'm also a person that takes very good care of my tools.
 
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Did not know that. They sure seemed better to me , and looked better too.
It's an on-going issue on many mechanical groups. Many will not accept it until an aircraft tech weighs in to point out that it's illegal to use stainless on aircraft aluminum.

Many scope mounts and rings are alumimum/alloy so a good anti-seize should protect you. I wouldn't use torque values for Grade 5 (US) or higher or metric Property class 4.8.

When I was in the mechanical trades, we hated stainless because they are weaker and softer than steel, and if heated they can turn harder than glass.

If one needs to drill stainless, use lots of lube and turn the bit slowly to avoid spot heating and hardening.

Carbide bits often don't like stainless because it's soft and the bits can dig in and break.

Many vehicle manufacturers like to use stainless as exhaust manifold bolts and studs. Talk to a Cummins Diesel truck tech. When they discovered carbide bits, like Garr, their world changed as the broken studs were incredibly difficult to drill out. Ford too.

Another potential issue for stainless is that the metalurgy is often unspecified so one often doesn't know what one is buying, unless buying a known brand like Papcom Docap, Bowman, etc.

If you are interested, PM and I can send some information that we used to provide to college mechanical trades students.
 
Tommy. But I don't call them that

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It's an on-going issue on many mechanical groups. Many will not accept it until an aircraft tech weighs in to point out that it's illegal to use stainless on aircraft aluminum.

Many scope mounts and rings are alumimum/alloy so a good anti-seize should protect you. I wouldn't use torque values for Grade 5 (US) or higher or metric Property class 4.8.

When I was in the mechanical trades, we hated stainless because they are weaker and softer than steel, and if heated they can turn harder than glass.

If one needs to drill stainless, use lots of lube and turn the bit slowly to avoid spot heating and hardening.

Carbide bits often don't like stainless because it's soft and the bits can dig in and break.

Many vehicle manufacturers like to use stainless as exhaust manifold bolts and studs. Talk to a Cummins Diesel truck tech. When they discovered carbide bits, like Garr, their world changed as the broken studs were incredibly difficult to drill out. Ford too.

Another potential issue for stainless is that the metalurgy is often unspecified so one often doesn't know what one is buying, unless buying a known brand like Papcom Docap, Bowman, etc.

If you are interested, PM and I can send some information that we used to provide to college mechanical trades students.
Thanks for the Information It's just astechics, and on scope mounts here where it's dry unlike areas that are humid the corrosion factor is very low.
The original bolts were rusty. I did do research on it , and you were correct. I did also use moly on them , and .learned that with such a low torque on rings it should be ok
 
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Thanks for the Information It's just astechics, and on scope mounts here where it's dry unlike areas that are humid the corrosion factor is very low.
The original bolts were rusty. I did do research on it , and you were correct. I did also use moly on them , and .learned that with such a low torque on rings it should be ok
Thanks for confirming that the question is resolved.

Another thought regarding threads, in case it wasn't mentioned: torque specifications are sometimes with dry threads, and other times with oiled threads.

The purpose for torquing is to apply a tension, a "pull" to the bolt or screw. The tension is created by the amount that the screw or bolt is rotated, but the turning effort or torque has to overcome the rotating friction of the threads and the remaining torque minus the friction applies as tension to the bolt or screw.

Since twisting effort (torque) minus the thread friction = tension on the screw, then anything that increases thread friction with the same applied torque must reduce the tension on the screw, or decreasing thread friction must increase the tension on the screw.

So, lubricating the threads without reducing the torque can result in over tension on the screw. Over tension can result in screw breaking, threads pulling out, or damage to the parts. So, on critical areas, be careful about lubricating if torque is near the limit.

Loctite recommend reducing torque by 10% because of the lubrication by the Loctite.

Here's a Chatgpt:

How much should dry torque value be reduced when threads are oil lubricated?
ChatGPT said:
Thought for 8s

Short answer: about 20–25% less if you lightly oil both the threads and the nut/bolt bearing surface.

A good rule of thumb (same clamp load, same bolt size):

Dry steel (clean): nut factor 𝐾 ≈ 0.20 – 0.25

Light oil (threads + bearing face): 𝐾 ≈ 0.14 – 0.16 → ~25% torque reduction

Threads only oiled: effect is smaller → ~10–15% reduction

Anti-seize: K≈0.10–0.12 → ~30–50% reduction

Moly/graphite assembly lube: K≈0.08–0.10 → ~40–60% reduction

Why: Torque needed is 𝑇 = 𝐾 𝐹 𝑑 T=KFd. Lubrication lowers K, so for the same preload 𝐹 F you use less torque.

Quick example: If a dry spec was 100 N·m (74 ft·lb), with light oil on threads and under-head use roughly 75–80 N·m (55–59 ft·lb).

⚠️ Always follow the manufacturer’s stated condition (dry vs lubricated). If the spec assumes lube and you reduce torque again, you’ll under-clamp; if it assumes dry and you don’t reduce when lubed, you can over-stretch the fastener.
 
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