HW30 Galling

[MB1]

I know it's a known issue and I knew I'd get around to fixing it one day. I wish I'd have fixed it sooner. It's exactly one year old this week and has about 2K rounds through it. Mine is really more like a gouge, removing metal in stead of piling it up. I put moly paste on it twice in the last year. I didn't try to smooth the gouges because I'm not ready to re-blue that area. I did polish / sand the joint of the cocking arm at the pivot, which is the culprit. I also lightly polished the cocking arm just behind the shoe / end. There was a surprising amount of wear on the receiver where the cocking shoe follows the piston. I only lightly cleaned up the arm there because the wear was so even and mild except at the very end of the slot when closed. It was pretty deep there but I didn't want to relieve the arm and allow it tolerance to reach the spring. The short linkage was nicely / loosely fitted in the breech block. The long linkage was very tight where it connects to the short linkage, too tight. I oiled it with Kroil and worked it a lot. I want to loosen it with tools but I need to learn what's ideal first before I make any more changes.

 

[Sqwirl57]

I cut down a piece of acetal rod that I sized in my lathe and tapped it into my cocking arm and that was the end of the galling issues for me. Now the arm just glides on that instead of the metal to metal contact. The 50S comes with a Derlin insert already but the 30S doesn't for whatever reason. Don't know why.

 

[Teber66]

My R7 does the same thing.

 

[coop709]

I have one HW30 and three R7's. One of them has this issue and a previous owner tried to repair it with what appears to be an epoxy compound. It's not going to cut the gun in half... I have never seen one of them gall themselves to failure. It should be fine after you have clearance for the cocking rod.

 

[Feinwerk]

You might be able to fashion a suitable bushing from a piece of kitchen cutting board that you can shape and press/tap fit into the fold of the cocking arm. Maybe not as slippery as delrin, but cutting boards are typically made from polyethylene blends which are fairly lubricious. You can test them before you buy by running the edge of your fingernail across it or the edge of your knife blade. The less it drags on your nail or blade, the better.

It always floats my boat when I can find an inexpensive consumer off the shelf product made from the material or the shape that you desire for a project and repurpose it. You can buy delrin rod and bar stock as a separate specialty item all day long, possibly from Amazon even, but there are some satisfaction with finding a domestic source from a local store that you can snag inexpensively.

There may be some off-the-shelf items made from delrin available at your hardware store that you can repurpose into a bushing piece, such as furniture glides perhaps or something similar that are meant to stand up to sliding friction. Look at spacers, thick washers and bushings in the specialty hardware drawers .

Nylon could also work and you can get little nylon bolts all day long at hardware stores. A little work with a hobby hacksaw and a file will have a piece shaped up in no time.

I use cutting boards that are 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch thick for a variety of home brew projects where I need a polymer / insulator/bushing. So easy to cut and drill and shape.

Feinwerk

 

[Mycapt65]

No bushings required. You have my number call me.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

The joint in the lever being tight is not the problem. It should be tight. Built that way. If the tight joint was at all an issue the gulling would have started on day one. The bent spring is the only thing that has changed. When the spring takes enough of a bend it gets to the shoe and/or piston wall and starts binding and puts lateral pressure on the piston. The piston starts slowly turning. This is why your damage is not centered. The groove in the receiver will also be scared on the same side. When the gun is at rest “with a bent spring” this is when there is the smallest amount of spring pressure on the piston wall and it slowly shifts the piston to one side and the lever against the receiver groove. Continual use will cause the groove to get eaten until the joint in the lever binds. Then the joint also jams “doesn’t function properly” and starts digging into the receiver. Opening the joint only works until the groove is eaten enough to start the process over again. A piston sleeve and new spring (with little preload) (Vortek tuning kit) and a good fitting spring guide will hold the spring straight and keep the spring from putting tension on the piston wall. Problem solved. Buffing the shoe is also a help to insure the spring does not “get to“ or “hang” on it.

 

[SpiralGroove]

Yeah, the HW30's, HW35's HW50's can show this issue.
You should have been alerted - this was going on by the sound or increased cocking tension .

The plastic cocking wedge in the cocking arm needs to be adjusted - I usually take out the spring below it applying additional pressure.
You also may need to remove some material from the plastic wedge, or in one of my older guns - remove some metal from the actual cocking arm causing the binding. If you grind some off - 1/16" at the most - just re-blue and you'll forget you even did it.

Apply Molly this location ...

 

[Brianburgess11]

I have a pretty simple fix. All the parts are stocked in home depot. I included pictures of the Allen screw, and the plastic wheel packaging so it’s easier to find. I test fitted the little plastic wheel and it perfectly fit into the arm. The Allen set screw is 8/32 you can buy a tap that actually drills and taps it for you. They have the perfect size in the Electrical area. The only thing that kind of sucked is, I had to file down the Allen set, screw to make it fit flush with the arm, but other than that, the parts are straight off the shelf and they fit perfect and their dirt cheap. actually just on a whim went to Home Depot went through their drawers picked out things I thought might work and I got really lucky. Hope this helps.

 

[Brianburgess11]

I actually bought a couple of the plastic wheels and then went through them. There were some inconsistencies on them so you want to buy a couple and cherry pick the one that has the most symmetrical shape.

 

[Brianburgess11]

This is after i filed the 8/32 threaded piece sides down and they are now flush

 

[Mycapt65]

The thread of the set screw will eat out the center of the plastic roller. The galling is a simple fix with no extra parts needed. I've written how to do it many times. Perhaps even earlier in this thread. It's really a non issue.

 

[Brianburgess11]

I’m probably gonna end up using a spring pin to replace the threaded piece or maybe a pin . It’ll do for now. I wish

Weihrauch would address the issue​

 

[Brianburgess11]

It’s just so smooth right now. I don’t wanna hear the metal and metal ever again it’s such a horrible gritty feel.

 

[Mycapt65]

It’s just so smooth right now. I don’t wanna hear the metal and metal ever again it’s such a horrible gritty feel.

Its a terribly concerning feeling and certainly ugly looking. Especially to OCD mechanics like me. But the truth is they all eventually smooth out to like butter, there's almost never severe damage and they never wear to an unusable condition.

They've been making them this way for 50 plus years (iirc) and if you know anything about German manufacturers they're not likely to change an otherwise good working design anytime soon.

Just exercise the joint if it's stiff, break the sharp stamped edges on the topside of the CA, smooth the Comp tube galling and lube with a good moly. It'll be butter in no time. No extra parts needed.

Wait until the spring breaks and gets all crunchy. You'll probably go out of your mind.

 

[Brianburgess11]

Its a terribly concerning feeling and certainly ugly looking. Especially to OCD mechanics like me. But the truth is they all eventually smooth out to like butter, there's almost never severe damage and they never wear to an unusable condition.

They've been making them this way for 50 plus years (iirc) and if you know anything about German manufacturers they're not likely to change an otherwise good working design anytime soon.
Just exercise the joint if it's stiff, break the sharp stamped edges on the topside of the CA, smooth the Comp tube galling and lube with a good moly. It'll be butter in no time. No extra parts needed.

Wait until the spring breaks and gets all crunchy. You'll probably go out of your mind.

I already had a spring break on a brand new HW 95. It was in three pieces. It didn’t even make it to 500 rounds before it broke. It just started getting harder to break the barrel over I knew I had to take it apart and check it out. I had a TBT Kit I hadn’t planned on installing until the break in was over but Im glad I had it ready .

 

[Mycapt65]

I already had a spring break on a brand new HW 95. It was in three pieces. It didn’t even make it to 500 rounds before it broke. It just started getting harder to break the barrel over I knew I had to take it apart and check it out. I had a TBT Kit I hadn’t planned on installing until the break in was over but Im glad I had it ready .

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Weihrauch springs are junk but they usually last longer than that. Very early spring failure is usually caused by dry firing, detonation and or excessive dieseling. Usually the those conditions trash the piston seals too if a damaged piston seal didn't cause those conditions in the first place.

 

[Brianburgess11]

It seems like every new spring gun diesels for a little bit, but I didn’t have any detonation like massive. Nothing like I’ve had on other ones before back when I was still learning about using the wrong lubricants.

 

[Brianburgess11]

Less than 50 shots, just got it brand new and the galling got so bad i had to take it apart. There’s definitely something bad with every single hw30 and hw50 . At this point, it’s a design flaw that they will probably never remedy. I even tried my little fix, and it couldn’t stop the galling . The Spring was so goddamn bent. I will have to try adding another roller. Really disappointed with Weihrauch. It’s no wonder everyone’s going to PCP‘s. It’s just not worth it anymore.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

Less than 50 shots, just got it brand new and the galling got so bad i had to take it apart. There’s definitely something bad with every single hw30 and hw50 . At this point, it’s a design flaw that they will probably never remedy. I even tried my little fix, and it couldn’t stop the galling . The Spring was so goddamn bent. I will have to try adding another roller. Really disappointed with Weihrauch. It’s no wonder everyone’s going to PCP‘s. It’s just not worth it anymore.

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Yup, i seen there turn right after covid and when the grandson stepping in .
Best is discontinue affordable standard model like in the 95 for more expensive walnut or anniversary . Not meet demand over all this time yet fir in stor stock .Then changed gunstocks to somthing not as liked.

I could kinda go for the house arrest during covid hurt but lets face it that's long been over and still not recovered ? Ya right.