FWB Feinwerkbau 150 - help needed

[DonR]

As to 150's with left-hand stocks: Back when ARH went out of business, I bought a lefty 'normal' 150 stock from their bargain clearout of spare parts. It ended up being modified to fit a 300S which later got sold (I could not tolerate the right-hand lever). That stock may still be tucked away in an attic corner.

Don R.

 

[Wadcutter]

As to 150's with left-hand stocks: Back when ARH went out of business, I bought a lefty 'normal' 150 stock from their bargain clearout of spare parts. It ended up being modified to fit a 300S which later got sold (I could not tolerate the right-hand lever). That stock may still be tucked away in an attic corner.

Don R.

Hey Don, Here's a snippet from a 1982 ARH "Super Sale" (closeout) brochure. Sure were some great deals on FWB stocks.

 

[DonR]

Thanks for digging that up Steve - back then I couldn't justify the extra $25 for a Tyro version!

 

[Pellets&Pistons-(Razor62)]

Hey Don, Here's a snippet from a 1982 ARH "Super Sale" (closeout) brochure. Sure were some great deals on FWB stocks.View attachment 577364

That's downright painful, right there....

 

[TnCnDn]

I have tried ads on here looking for a 150 stock and fixing screws for a looonnnggg time to no avail. I find it hard to believe that no one has one to part with.

 

[Wadcutter]

I have tried ads on here looking for a 150 stock and fixing screws for a looonnnggg time to no avail. I find it hard to believe that no one has one to part with.

I was in the same boat. I bought a 150 with a cracked stock that a previous owner tried to repair. It had been epoxied, pinned, and screwed from all directions. I thought it would be doable from the photos provided. Turned out to be worse than expected, and also had a chunk missing. Ended up finding a 300 stock for it, off of Scott Pilkington I think.

 

[TnCnDn]

I was in the same boat. I bought a 150 with a cracked stock that a previous owner tried to repair. It had been epoxied, pinned, and screwed from all directions. I thought it would be doable from the photos provided. Turned out to be worse than expected, and also had a chunk missing. Ended up finding a 300 stock for it, off of Scott Pilkington I think.View attachment 577472View attachment 577474View attachment 577473View attachment 577475View attachment 577476View attachment 577478

View attachment 577477

Some just don't get it. At least you got the accouterments. The 300 stock needed to be modified to fit the longer cocking lever correct?

 

[Wadcutter]

TnCnDn ,
Yes - the 300 stock has to be modified to accommodate the longer cocking lever.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

Tetra gun grease is a fluoropolymer lubricant that is readily available from a multitude of sources. I have used it to good effect in the past. A little goes a very long way. They also produce an oil with the same properties.

Absolutely gorgeous examples on display gentlemen, thank you for sharing the eye candy!

Is this the best option for grease?

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

So, I called David Slade about a rebuild. He went over the procedure. His biggest concern with the 150 is the plastic trigger blade. He said there are no replacements available if it was to get broken during the rebuild. Made me nervous. I just checked my 150. It is not plastic. It’s steel. Magnet jumped right on it. Also, it has what looks to be a screw to remove it. Is this a later improvement? Maybe custom work? Can anyone explain this?

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

Is this the best option for grease? View attachment 577667

That is the stuff, a little goes a long way.

The detent ratchet bar that I mentioned earlier is called a locking bar by FWB, and it is part #26 on the exploded view.

Feinwerkbau 150 Ersatzteile 1500.001.1 Raststange Luftgewehr seitenspanner matchgewehr 4,5mm

Feinwerkbau 150 Ersatzteile 1500.001.1 Raststange Luftgewehr seitenspanner matchgewehr 4,5mm

www.waffencenter-gotha.de

I do believe that the originals are a sintered metal part, as it is not uncommon to encounter them broken. It is mounted as part of the trigger assembly housing that comes off in one piece, and should require no more than a clean and lube.
Be careful on reassembly as you can jam the works up if the ratchet pawl is not aligned correctly.
There is basically no need to fiddle about with it unless it is broken, just clean and leave be.
If they did not break, W.C.G. probably would not repop the part.....

 

[Wadcutter]

1965-66 and 1968 have steel triggers and the screw. Some early Diana's have plastic, which are prone to snap off if not protected during shipping.
I like the factory FWB lube if you can find a tube.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

That is the stuff, a little goes a long way.

The detent ratchet bar that I mentioned earlier is called a locking bar by FWB, and it is part #26 on the exploded view.

Feinwerkbau 150 Ersatzteile 1500.001.1 Raststange Luftgewehr seitenspanner matchgewehr 4,5mm

Feinwerkbau 150 Ersatzteile 1500.001.1 Raststange Luftgewehr seitenspanner matchgewehr 4,5mm

www.waffencenter-gotha.de

I do believe that the originals are a sintered metal part, as it is not uncommon to encounter them broken. It is mounted as part of the trigger assembly housing that comes off in one piece, and should require no more than a clean and lube.
Be careful on reassembly as you can jam the works up if the ratchet pawl is not aligned correctly.
There is basically no need to fiddle about with it unless it is broken, just clean and leave be.
If they did not break, W.C.G. probably would not repop the part.....

Is there any plastic pieces in the trigger assembly that I should take caution with if/when heat is applied to the trigger screws for disassembly? Thank you

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

1965-66 and 1968 have steel triggers and the screw. Some early Diana's have plastic, which are prone to snap off if not protected during shipping.
I like the factory FWB lube if you can find a tube.

View attachment 577766

Thank you. This explains why I was told about the plastic trigger warning.

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

Is there any plastic pieces in the trigger assembly that I should take caution with if/when heat is applied to the trigger screws for disassembly? Thank you

None that I am aware of.
I would use a small butane soldering torch VS a heat gun though, keep your heat localized on the screw if needed.

IF you possess the proper screwdriver to employ in this fashion, you can strike the top of the screwdriver with a mallet for a pseudo impact effect to break the screws loose. Alternatively if you have a proper fitting screw driver with a hex shaft, use a small adjustable wrench on the shaft to amplify your rotational torque.
Proceed cautiously, and use a proper fitting tool.