Leave the cast iron piston ring alone unless you see it broken. These never wear out, but unless you are really careful, you could break it when removing it.
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FWB Feinwerkbau 150 - help needed
- Thread starter Bear-of-Grayling
- Start date
Easiest way to remove the piston ring, if you have thumb nails, is to spread the gap and lift up on the back side. It will pop right off.
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I don’t know if these were ever made with a left hand stock. I had a 300 mini back in the 80’s. It was a lefty. Still a right hand action. FWB never made a true left hand model. Just the lh stock with a right hand action. Like most lefties, I do most thing with both hands. I actually prefer the rh action. I cock it with my right and load with my left. I can hold back the cocking arm while doing it. This stock feels perfectly fine from the right side. Even my palm is good. I also like this trigger better than the 300. The 300 is a “glass break” trigger. I found it difficult to shoot in my league. I like a squishy trigger, predictable but without a wall. I used the Diana 75 t01 and loved that trigger. This one on the 150 reminds me of that t01.
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I know what you mean about the right hand action being perfectly fine for a lefty. I use your technique holding the action open with my tricep against the lever and my hand on the stock. I'd have a hard time getting comfortable behind that stock though, because of the grip design.
Doesn't being persecuted for being a southpaw tick you off...? LOL! I want one! but it's got to be a lefty or no dice. I don't know if they ever offered one either. Maybe someone else can shed some light
Doesn't being persecuted for being a southpaw tick you off...? LOL! I want one! but it's got to be a lefty or no dice. I don't know if they ever offered one either. Maybe someone else can shed some light
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I always prefer to remove the ring to flush all the old gunk and funk out of the piston groove, then relube the ring. I am guessing that a good flush out with carb cleaner or a similar substance would serve the same purpose, I just do not feel whole unless I disassemble stuff down to component bits.
Straight silicone is a no go. Superlube with ptfe would be suitable and readily available though.
I think you would be better served with a modern fluoropolymer lubricant due to the small quantity required for maximum lubricity. It only takes a very light film to lube the compression chamber and the associated ring as you will find out. Be sure to withdraw the piston from the compression tube after lubing and cycling it by hand a few times and you will see. Wipe out the excess and away you go!
Straight silicone is a no go. Superlube with ptfe would be suitable and readily available though.
I think you would be better served with a modern fluoropolymer lubricant due to the small quantity required for maximum lubricity. It only takes a very light film to lube the compression chamber and the associated ring as you will find out. Be sure to withdraw the piston from the compression tube after lubing and cycling it by hand a few times and you will see. Wipe out the excess and away you go!
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I think that gun is a Daisy marketed? I think I can just make out the "D" on your picture? Someone told me that the Daisy gun were select for quality and accuracy, and the FWB was trying to build their reputation in the US, and that's why they are all (?) are sleeved...I dunno, maybe just nice sounding story!
I have a early production European sold non sleeved 150, heavily worn, likely a club gun, and it's the same accuracy as my gun-case-queen Daisy.
You got a beautiful, as new airgun there...congrats.
Sometimes I think all this other stuff could go if I only had the one 150!
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It doesn’t say Daisy anywhere on the gun. Probably bought in Germany and brought to the U.S. It is sleeved. Will update on accuracy after the new seals are installed.
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I know I was once the same. I think the ambi cheek piece stocks now offered has chilled me out. As long as my cheek and left hand is comfortable, I‘m good. I’ll keep my eye open for you. Disclaimer: if a gorgeous lefty came my way.......
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Now I’m on a mission. Very cool. The beauty of all 150’s being right hand cocking is that if I could find even a beater left hand tyro or not and restore the stock - switch the mechanisms. Thank you.
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This one's Daisy branded and one of my favorites. It would be difficult to part with.
Love the palm swell on these guns.
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Absolutely stunning. Mine does not wear that Daisy branding. The wood is awesome on yours. Condition is like mine. Thanks for sharing.
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If it were a Daisy gun you would know as it would be stamped as the one Wadcutter shows. One of mine is a Daisy the other not, I cannot see any difference in the way they shoot.
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Tetra gun grease is a fluoropolymer lubricant that is readily available from a multitude of sources. I have used it to good effect in the past. A little goes a very long way. They also produce an oil with the same properties.
Absolutely gorgeous examples on display gentlemen, thank you for sharing the eye candy!
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While you are correct about the rings longevity, the FWB service guide does call out a dimension on the ring that is cause for removal and replacement.
I wrote down the thickness of a brand new OEM FWB ring, and it was .036. Compare that to the other ring pictured earlier in this thread which measured .035. As far as I can remember, FWB calls for replacement of the ring at .033 or .032.
As the ring wears, the end gap increases and you will lose power due to blowby. The ring does all of the sealing in the comp tube, the end buffer on the piston is just a cushion.
I will try to dig up the reference material from FWB, but I believe that the website I sourced it from originally is long gone.........
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Here's the US patent that's stamped on the Daisy gun. Applied for in Feb. 1962 and granted in April 1966.
From the drawings, you wouldn't think it was the same gun.
From the drawings, you wouldn't think it was the same gun.
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Excuse me while I wipe the drool from my keyboard..... There she's, folks! The lady of my dreams!!!! Be still my beating heart...
Thanks for posting this, my friend.Upvote 0
I have been unable to find the reference material that I mentioned earlier on the piston ring dimensions. It was on the old Yellow forum, and has been relegated to history now apparently...
I did come across this write up though, and he measures 2 new rings and the old one in the rifle. I am gonna guess and say that you are good to go at .034 to .036.
Re-Loaded: Feinwerkbau 300S Rebuild and some rambling.........with some pics - JUNKYARDAIRGUNS https://share.google/HbfVScMek5MbOEal9
I did come across this write up though, and he measures 2 new rings and the old one in the rifle. I am gonna guess and say that you are good to go at .034 to .036.
Re-Loaded: Feinwerkbau 300S Rebuild and some rambling.........with some pics - JUNKYARDAIRGUNS https://share.google/HbfVScMek5MbOEal9
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