FWB Feinwerkbau 150 - help needed

[Bear-of-Grayling]

Just acquired this FWB 150. Looks nearly new. Serial number 35059 indicates it’s a 1968 model I believe. Having a traditional stock design makes it suited for either side shooters. And I shoot from the right side. I feel very blessed to have found this rifle in this condition. It Chrony’s in at 634fps using RWS Hobby 7.0 grain. Beautiful Walnut stock. Came with a bipod and adjustable Iris. The only thing it needs is a new breech seal. Does anyone here know where I can get one? Thank you.

 

[beerthief]

Just acquired this FWB 150. Looks nearly new. Serial number 35059 indicates it’s a 1968 model I believe. Having a traditional stock design makes it suited for either side shooters. And I shoot from the right side. I feel very blessed to have found this rifle in this condition. It Chrony’s in at 634fps using RWS Hobby 7.0 grain. Beautiful Walnut stock. Came with a bipod and adjustable Iris. The only thing it needs is a new breech seal. Does anyone here know where I can get one? Thank you.View attachment 576421

in beautiful shape , good find .

 

[Hateful McNasty]

??? Arh it seems there all variations

FWB 150-300 2pc. Seal Set- SALE!

Maccari Custom Airgun Shop. Airguns and related accessories. Springs,tune kits,gunstocks,Beeman, Rws, Webley and many others. Sales and service

www.airrifleheadquarters.com

Picture

FWB 150-300 packingsats

One breech seal and one piston seal buffer. For 150-300 all variations

shop.luftvapen.se

Funny it seems its a set ..lol

Feinwerkbau seal kits for air rifles - 150 / 300 Serie

Seal kits for Model series 150 / 300

buinger.com

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

If the breech seal (tanish brown, probably original) is decomposing, is it fair to assume that piston buffer is also? I’ve never taken a 150/300 apart. Is it fairly straight forward? Who is a good person to contact if I wanted to send it out? Thank you.

 

[DualMagMike]

If the breech seal (tanish brown, probably original) is decomposing, is it fair to assume that piston buffer is also? I’ve never taken a 150/300 apart. Is it fairly straight forward? Who is a good person to contact if I wanted to send it out? Thank you.

Macarri for the seals, Slade for repair. I would think the same, if one seal is bad likely the other is also. I have never done one but some very inexperienced people said they have. A lot of clips and such but numerous YouTube videos on how to...

 

[Hateful McNasty]

Must be a reason there sold as a set to replace each as needed or together.. you could ask arh if he has just the breech seal to sell standalone. I guess they figure if one is going out so is the other so its sold together in a set .

 

[Hateful McNasty]

....p.s ....

I think the old fwb seals materials/ formula to make them used back then were easy to degrade . So that kinda adds up to get a set .. maybe .. i guess ..lol

Example

Feinwerkbau 127 (124) Piston Seal Replacement

In Hawaii in 1981, when I was 15 years old, I was heavily into airguns. At that time, I saved up and bought a new Feinwerkbau 127 .22 caliber air rifle. I still have the receipts for it, and all the accessories I bought for it. It was my favorite possession for the next 3 years, until I turned 18...

www.machinegunboards.com

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

Macarri for the seals, Slade for repair.

Thanks Mike. Do you or anyone here have a contact number for each? I’ve never used either one. Thank you.

 

[marflow 777]

https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/6889471.htm

 

[DualMagMike]

See above for the seal @ Macarri and this is for D Slade https://airgunwerks.com/contact.html

 

[Hateful McNasty]

FWB 300/150 disassembly instructions: Part 3 | Blog | Pyramyd AIR

by Tom Gaylord Writing as B.B. Pelletier Part 1 Part 2 Today's report contains special instructions for the disassembly of a Feinwerkbau 150 air rifle -- for those few places where it departs from the FWB 300 instructions presented in Parts 1 and 2. It was translated and written for us by reader...

www.pyramydair.com

 

[jps2486]

eBay, or International Shooters Service, Ft. Worth, TX. Neil, at ISS, stocks factory OEM parts.

 

[jkingrph]

See above for the seal @ Macarri and this is for D Slade https://airgunwerks.com/contact.html

Beautiful gun. I got two of those earlier this year so my son and I could have matches using identical guns. Equipped both with adjustable iris apertures. I have a newer FWB 300 and prefer the stock on the older 150.
Here if you wish to send it out. David has reworked several FWB guns for me over the last few years Excellent work.
I have a 150 sr 32718 and an email from FWB says it was made in 1968, so am guessing yours about 1970-72

 

[Wadcutter]

Nice looking example! They are great guns and built to last. The buffer is definitely a weak point, but you shouldn't have to replace the piston ring. Here's comparison pics of a new one and one out of an old work horse club gun FWB300s. No visible or measurable wear. The buffer had crumbled on the same gun.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

Nice looking example! They are great guns and built to last. The buffer is definitely a weak point, but you shouldn't have to replace the piston ring. Here's comparison pics of a new one and one out of an old work horse club gun FWB300s. No visible or measurable wear. The buffer had crumbled on the same gun.
View attachment 576501View attachment 576502
View attachment 576513

Looks like you did the replacement yourself. I’m going to do mine also. I have watched a couple videos and it looks pretty straight forward. This gun has seen little use. I can’t see replacing parts that do not need it. The spring and piston ring are still basically fresh. Any tips you can share with me? I see the two trigger screws seem to be the tough spot. Thank you.

 

[Wadcutter]

Looks like you did the replacement yourself. I’m going to do mine also. I have watched a couple videos and it looks pretty straight forward. This gun has seen little use. I can’t see replacing parts that do not need it. The spring and piston ring are still basically fresh. Any tips you can share with me? I see the two trigger screws seem to be the tough spot. Thank you.

Just did a count and have at least a dozen of the 150/300 series. Restored maybe half of them and don't recall running into any issues, but it's been a few years now since tearing into one. My suggestion for any airgun disassembly is to take lots of sharp photos from all angles as you progress. `

Unless there's an issue with the trigger bits, just leave them alone and only remove the housing rail that contains the trigger assembly.
Use a small butane torch, if you have to, on the screws holding the trigger housing. I do recall that they can be very tight, possibly some sort of loctite was used.

One tip, is to use a punch or screw driver to hold the end cap while removing the stud (see pic below). Makes things easier, if you're not using a spring compressor, especially during reassembly. Also, to watch for, is that I had at least one with a staked cocking lever bolt, which was kind of a pain. Had to get a sharp Dremel bit in there to remove a little metal before it would unscrew. I believe it was done at the factory, so hopefully yours isn't staked.

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

As above, they are not really difficult to work on. If you watched and comprehended the videos on disassembly, you are entirely capable of doing a rebuild.

Cautions

The piston ring is brittle. It will flex enough for removal, but not much more than that and it will snap in half. I believe it is a sintered metal piece, so treat it accordingly during your teardown. The ring is supposed to last through 1 million cycles, so yours will be good to go once you perform your clean up and degrease.

The 2 front pins for the sledge are sometimes REALLY REALLY in there and can be a bear to get out. Watch Joe Rheas (Cyclops) video and try his technique first, if it does not get them to move try a narrow jawed vise grip on the end of the pin. Clamp on at a 90 degree angle to the pin and use the vise grip to strike with a small hammer to persuade them. A touch of heat might be beneficial as well. The pins are hardened and the grips will not damage the exposed end.

Wadcutter is not kidding about the trigger housing screws either, those dudes are in there rather snug. Some heat and a proper fitting screw driver of the large variety will be your friend for this operation.

Keep and eye on the ratchet detent bar that you hear clicking when you cock the side lever as well, it is another sintered metal piece and if pried on or treated to a hammer blow, it will be in 2 pieces as well.

On lubes-

Less is more than enough in the compression cylinder.
A light smear, insert piston and work it a few times to distribute, then remove piston and clean out ALL the excess. They are designed to run darn near dry, so treat it accordingly.
Lube the pins for the recoil sledge with a light viscosity grease or a suitable high quality oil. Heavy lube will cause drag on the sledge system. I used Ultimox226 very very lightly on the pins, and in the comp tube.

Good luck, you will enjoy working on that rifle.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

I am absolutely positive that this gun has not been touched in 57 years. I have a heat gun and will use it on the front pins and trigger screws. May leave it set all night with WD40 or Liquid Wrench first. The 150 does not have a bear trap mechanism so no hole to insert a pin in when removing the take down bolt. I have a heavy duty spring press anyway so either way that is what I would use. Us Springer folks don’t worry about spring pressure. Is a silicone grease preferred in the piston and in the barrel? I want to use the best lubs so this is a one and done. Also I see no need to remove the ring. Correct? Thank you everyone for all your help. The seals are on the way. ARC is the place.