Huben Any issues or problems with Huben gk1 please share your experience
- Thread starter windowtintz
- Start date
Been awhile here haha, i have a weird one. Kinda hard to explain. The gun has done this since early on.
I have 2 GK1’s, both are v3 (come to find out my 22 v3 is more a V3+) more on that in a bit.
my 25 cal is currently set to about 40 fpe. Tank at 5 k i can shoot down to about 15-16 mpa and see a spread of 30-35 fps.
My 22, when it gets down to about 20 mpa on the gauge.. it goes from 2-3 fos per shot to 10 fps per shot, to eventually 30 fps per shot .. eventually dumping or partially dumping the tank.
Ive run it from 20 to 35 fpe and the higher the power the quicker it will eventually dump the tank.
I just took the block all apart and found the plastic seal ring to be crushed . When i had the valve out it was all steal (v3+) and also a solid striker with no buffer pressed in the center. Only difference is the spring is longer and softer and the striker had a small holr through it (have no idea why)
Anyways, got new rings, the tools and replaced them. Put it all back togther, no leaks, everything seemed ok .. until i shot it down to the infamous 20 mpa.. fps spike, louder shots and eventually a partial dump.
I am wondering now if its something with the lower valve not sealing enough at lower tank pressures ? I did look at it and did not see anything that looked bad. Only thing i can come up with is swapping in the new cone shaped spring…. Any ideas?
Ty
I have 2 GK1’s, both are v3 (come to find out my 22 v3 is more a V3+) more on that in a bit.
my 25 cal is currently set to about 40 fpe. Tank at 5 k i can shoot down to about 15-16 mpa and see a spread of 30-35 fps.
My 22, when it gets down to about 20 mpa on the gauge.. it goes from 2-3 fos per shot to 10 fps per shot, to eventually 30 fps per shot .. eventually dumping or partially dumping the tank.
Ive run it from 20 to 35 fpe and the higher the power the quicker it will eventually dump the tank.
I just took the block all apart and found the plastic seal ring to be crushed . When i had the valve out it was all steal (v3+) and also a solid striker with no buffer pressed in the center. Only difference is the spring is longer and softer and the striker had a small holr through it (have no idea why)
Anyways, got new rings, the tools and replaced them. Put it all back togther, no leaks, everything seemed ok .. until i shot it down to the infamous 20 mpa.. fps spike, louder shots and eventually a partial dump.
I am wondering now if its something with the lower valve not sealing enough at lower tank pressures ? I did look at it and did not see anything that looked bad. Only thing i can come up with is swapping in the new cone shaped spring…. Any ideas?
Ty
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Most of these questions can be answered by Kelly @ Krazykool. I know that he is also in contact with Huben.
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while Kelly might very well be able to help, i would still be curious, what the cause and the solution to the described issues are.
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Update, after talking with Kelly i went and installed the V3+ valve i had. Interestingly the valve in it did not have the same travel and the inner part stuck out past the rear when collapsed. Anyways, FPS still climbed and it dumped. Next up is the valve o ring.
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Apologies, I am confused. I thought you wrote that the two valves did not have the same travel. And thus, I understood this to mean they have some variation in dimensions?
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Yes, thought maybe the old valve was defective or assembled incorrectly, and that it could of been causing my issues. Wasn’t the case though.
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The gun is not the problem, it is your use of it. Please read the directions. It simple states not to let the tank pressure drop too low. It just takes a few seconds to top off the air tank every time you reload the magazine.
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I have a piece of black o-ring stuck between my trigger adjustment springs. Any ideas which oring it is? I haven’t disassembled past this point. Gun was leaking air
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There is a piece of oring rubber that keeps the trihger adjusting screws from loosening. That oring just looks like foreign object debris as there are no orings in that area.
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Thanks. What part # is that? I got the piece out and it definitely feels like oring material so maybe it’s that piece
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Edit: this was a reply to Steve, dont know why it did not quote him.
Wow ok lol … 20 mpa is NOT low when running the gun At 20-25 fpe.
Running it cranked at 75 fpe .. absolutely. Uses a lot more air .. 20 down to 12 mpa (supposed limit) is what 1 or two shots?
Fwiw i just installed the v3+ valve and spring, supposedly it can be shot down even lower.
Still dumped at 18 mpa.
Obviously you did not read any of my post.
I have 2 GK1’s .. i run my other 25 cal at 40 fpe , 1 mag from 35 mpa down to 25 mpa. I get another 10 or so shots down to 20 mpa which is the limit i go at this setting .
I have run it down to 15 mpa with lighter pellets and a lower power setting.
Wow ok lol … 20 mpa is NOT low when running the gun At 20-25 fpe.
Running it cranked at 75 fpe .. absolutely. Uses a lot more air .. 20 down to 12 mpa (supposed limit) is what 1 or two shots?
Fwiw i just installed the v3+ valve and spring, supposedly it can be shot down even lower.
Still dumped at 18 mpa.
Obviously you did not read any of my post.
I have 2 GK1’s .. i run my other 25 cal at 40 fpe , 1 mag from 35 mpa down to 25 mpa. I get another 10 or so shots down to 20 mpa which is the limit i go at this setting .
I have run it down to 15 mpa with lighter pellets and a lower power setting.
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My gk1 v3 for some reaso. The rear sight moves all the way to the left when I leave the gun by itself for a while…does anybody know how I can fix this ?
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Sounds like the screw for adjusting windage is stripped? That rear sight blade is delicate, mine had problems - a different issue: the rear blade has a tongue that travels in a little groove - on my air gun the tongue must've been damaged because the blade popped out of the groove very easily.
I ordered a replacement from Krazcool but I haven't installed it yet because I put a red dot on the gun in the meanwhile
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