Skout Everything Skout EVO and Epoch

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manabeknives said:
Put a mark where the rifle shoud be placed. It does make a difference.
Looks nice!👍. Maybe something non slip for the feet?
Click to expand...
Yes! got the non slip feet on. there are 3 sizes of cradles you can print. I printed the widest one so I can move the gun side to side a bit.

we’ll see how it all works in the real world tomorrow when I go shoot
 
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Hey everybody, so this is gonna be a long post. Hope you don’t mind so I did two things today to Both my EVO and Epoch.

so with the stock transfer port for .177 installed I have to turn the reg up to around 2000psi to push a 13.43g JSB redesign at around 720-730fps.
so I decided to enlarge my swappable transfer port from 2mm on the stock one to 3.5mm

now I can run pressures at 1000psi and get 800fps. it was super easy to do and the great part is if you somehow mess it up or want to go back it’s just a call to Skout to get a replacement.
they are both shooting fantastic at that lower reg pressure.
i‘ve tried the one that is for the 30 Cal and you almost have turned the regulator off to get it to work properly, so I knew it would work. I just feel like the stock 2 mm transfer port forces you to turn the regulator to high Limiting shot count.

IMG_7387.jpeg
 
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so my next thing is, I discovered a problem but it does have a fix, and it should be an easy fix as well. So I don’t know if any of you have had problems with airing up your gun in the air bleeding out spontaneously sometimes.
I’ve had that problem on both of my guns.
On my Evo, I replaced some of the O-rings in it mostly fixed the problem, but the Epoch I just got does it really bad ( my evo did it to at first )

So here’s what I found happens the regulator needle on the high-pressure valve has a small O-ring that seats when it’s closed. Unbeknownst to me, there is a hidden O-ring that’s not listed on the list of O-rings. That hidden O-ring is actually for sealing the two sections of the needle valve.
Will this extremely small O-ring is a soft rubber and it leaks and when it leaks, it pushes the clear O-ring up on the needle valve, causing that O-ring to deform and not seat.
I’m going to call Scout and see if they know what size O-ring it is.
It’s extremely extremely small but that O-ring definitely needs to be a harder material.
Your kit of spare parts comes with a replacement needle valve, and I took that one apart just to look at that O-ring and even the new one it’s showing signs of damage because it’s a soft rubber.
Here’s the pictures
Hope this makes sense to everybody, but once I find the exact size of this O-ring, I’ll report back and probably find an Amazon link to order it in at least a 70 hardness. A 90 would be too hard because it has to fit over the threads.

I found this out after my gun wouldn’t take a fill beyond 1000 psi and the clear O-ring was halfway pushed out causing the gun to not seal.

IMG_7389.jpeg


IMG_7390.jpeg


IMG_7391.jpeg


IMG_7388.jpeg
 
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MSR Workshop said:
so my next thing is, I discovered a problem but it does have a fix, and it should be an easy fix as well. So I don’t know if any of you have had problems with airing up your gun in the air bleeding out spontaneously sometimes.
I’ve had that problem on both of my guns.
On my Evo, I replaced some of the O-rings in it mostly fixed the problem, but the Epoch I just got does it really bad ( my evo did it to at first )

So here’s what I found happens the regulator needle on the high-pressure valve has a small O-ring that seats when it’s closed. Unbeknownst to me, there is a hidden O-ring that’s not listed on the list of O-rings. That hidden O-ring is actually for sealing the two sections of the needle valve.
Will this extremely small O-ring is a soft rubber and it leaks and when it leaks, it pushes the clear O-ring up on the needle valve, causing that O-ring to deform and not seat.
I’m going to call Scout and see if they know what size O-ring it is.
It’s extremely extremely small but that O-ring definitely needs to be a harder material.
Your kit of spare parts comes with a replacement needle valve, and I took that one apart just to look at that O-ring and even the new one it’s showing signs of damage because it’s a soft rubber.
Here’s the pictures
Hope this makes sense to everybody, but once I find the exact size of this O-ring, I’ll report back and probably find an Amazon link to order it in at least a 70 hardness. A 90 would be too hard because it has to fit over the threads.

I found this out after my gun wouldn’t take a fill beyond 1000 psi and the clear O-ring was halfway pushed out causing the gun to not seal.

View attachment 572834

View attachment 572835

View attachment 572836

View attachment 572837
Click to expand...
how did you separate the 2 pieces?
 
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manabeknives said:
here's where the problem begins :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
lol 😂
OK, so I didn’t actually use pliers. They were flat faced things that kinda looked like channel locks.
Not sure exactly what they were called 🤪🤦‍♂️
I called them pliers for lack of a better term
But I’m sure a hardened, sewing needle through the small hole would probably work well
 
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Revoman said:
So, just to be certain of the part that the "extremely small" O-Ring is seated....
It appears that it would fit at the area between the threads and the conical section of part #MFE105. Correct?
Thanks for the heads up!

mike
Click to expand...
Yes !
because that little ring isn’t doing his job, it leaks, causing air to push the large clear one off its seat and deforms it so it can’t seat properly. The reason the leaking stops when you take a shot is because it lowers that chamber pressure just enough that Air can’t push past that O ring
 
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kwaping said:
This seems like a pretty major discovery.
Click to expand...
I think so! This could also be the cause of small leaks that people can’t find. And this is probably the cause of leaks when the gun is left pressured up to.
yes the old softer O rings were also a cause but in the newer regulators they have all been swapped out to a 90 durometer which fixed most of them.
 
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So I just spoke with Scout this morning and they said that they used to lock tight the two sections together But eventually, the Loctite was failing so they replaced it with an O-ring.
I did confirm that the O-ring size is a 1.5mm id
I did source these ones on Amazon so I will see if this material holds up better.

uxcell Fluorine Rubber O-Rings 3.5mm OD 1.5mm ID 1mm Width, Metric FKM Sealing Gasket, Pack of 50: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

uxcell Fluorine Rubber O-Rings 3.5mm OD 1.5mm ID 1mm Width, Metric FKM Sealing Gasket, Pack of 50: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
a.co
 
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MSR Workshop said:
So I just spoke with Scout this morning and they said that they used to lock tight the two sections together But eventually, the Loctite was failing so they replaced it with an O-ring.
I did confirm that the O-ring size is a 1.5mm id
I did source these ones on Amazon so I will see if this material holds up better.

uxcell Fluorine Rubber O-Rings 3.5mm OD 1.5mm ID 1mm Width, Metric FKM Sealing Gasket, Pack of 50: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

uxcell Fluorine Rubber O-Rings 3.5mm OD 1.5mm ID 1mm Width, Metric FKM Sealing Gasket, Pack of 50: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
a.co
Click to expand...
ahhh... i have one of the loctite's that held up ..I probably need heat to get mine to separate
 
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Going back to post #182 Whats being talked about is the POPPET SEAT and not the transfer port.
While the exit of seat does match up to the transfer port that is the passage within the manifold that Seat and Barrel thimble go into.

To truly make for a more balanced and consistent transfer path, one needs to make an insert straw that chokes down the transfer path diameter within the manifold that matches what ever the size is of the seats exit size.

a4.jpg


a5.jpg
 
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Motorhead said:
Going back to post #182 Whats being talked about is the POPPET SEAT and not the transfer port.
While the exit of seat does match up to the transfer port that is the passage within the manifold that Seat and Barrel thimble go into.

To truly make for a more balanced and consistent transfer path, one needs to make an insert straw that chokes down the transfer path diameter within the manifold that matches what ever the size is of the seats exit size.

View attachment 572968

View attachment 572969
Click to expand...
So I was wondering where you actually put those.
So my question is what’s the point of choking the transfer port back down vs just having the poppet seat smaller. Wouldn’t that defeat the purpose of drilling out the puppet seat?
It looks like you, drilled yours a bit larger than I did. ?
 
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First off .... maintaining velocity of the air moving from seat to barrel is important.
If the exit at seat is smaller than the transfer path to barrel, flow will slow down as the added volume of an oversize transfer path is absorbing energy & some pressure as it fills the excess space attempting to hold the released pressure exiting from the valve seat. Get these diameters better matched the shot cycle will be come crisper and yield a lower ES shot to shot while also using a tad less air for equal speed / power.

My Skout was purchased as a .30 cal and was fitted with the HUGE .340 seat. When I was finally able to get the parts to convert to .22 cal was able to get a Tiny .177 seat and proceeded to modify it to the size appropriate for .22 caliber. then choked the transfer path within manifold.
 
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