Snowpeak Artemis P15 5.5mm - location of hammer spring adjustment screw

[JMF87]

Good Afternoon all. I would like to know where the adjustment screw for the Artemis P15 is located at on the rifle? I would like to tinker a bit with fps with my current pellets (Hades 15.89gr) which is running at 834fps avg. I would like to possibly take it up up between 875fps and 925fps depending on what my pcp like. The reason for the adjustment is that this is my son's (6 year old) first rifle which he will shoot birds, meerkat and or rabbits with while we are on hunting farms, so he is not precise with his shot placements and I want to go up a few grains in pellet weight or even go to 21 gr slugs if he does miss the head, the impact would be great enough to humanely take the animal down.

Here is some 5 shot groups I took one evening at about 10 meters. The rifle was zeroed on 25 meters with the Hades.

 

[Vetmx]

@JimD will hopefully know where a Snowpeak reg in your caliber is set. Even close will be good enough. When you get your Huma, set it to the number Jim says, return your hammer spring setting to where it was if you messed with it and your done.

We could take a deep dive into this and go into all the details about tuning. But in your case I don’t think it’s necessary just to get you shooting again. Fine tuning and chasing numbers will only confuse you and probably make you hate shooting.

 

[dk-duck]

@JimD will hopefully know where a Snowpeak reg in your caliber is set. Even close will be good enough. When you get your Huma, set it to the number Jim says, return your hammer spring setting to where it was if you messed with it and your done.

We could take a deep dive into this and go into all the details about tuning. But in your case I don’t think it’s necessary just to get you shooting again. Fine tuning and chasing numbers will only confuse you and probably make you hate shooting.

 

[dk-duck]

hi I've not messed around with the rifle at all, not even done anything to the hammer we've (me and partner) have looked at a good huma regulator, which I'll more than likely order soon, do you know how to empty the rifle with out doing it from the front? because it's meant to damage all part's of the gun. and thank you so much for your help

 

[JimD]

There should be a screw on the fitting on the back of the air tube that is the bleed screw. On my first P35 is it a straight blade screw. On my later P35s and a couple bullsharks I have worked on it is a hex screw. But look on the rear of the air tube, the end closest to the action for a screw and turn it counter clockwise very slowly until you hear hissing. Back it off a little, let the hissing stop, then you'll probably have to open it a little more. Dumping the air rapidly will almost certainly damage the one way valve which you can fix with an O-ring but it's better to just let it out slowly.

Absolutely never open the airtube without letting the air out. You can pull a barrel or a hammer or the hammer spring with the air in but you cannot change the regulator without letting all the air out.

I would not buy a new regulator until you do a shot string, however, like I suggested earlier. Take some pellets you do not care for and shoot from full or nearly full down to something like 100 bar. If your regulator is working your velocity will stay with a fairly narrow range. Sometimes 10 fps but never more than 30 fps with a functioning regulator. If it starts low, then goes up as pressure decreases and then starts back down, your regulator has failed. This takes a little time and I would write down the velocity of each shot so you can look at it later but it will prove beyond doubt the regulator is your issue. Or not. I would not spend $100 for a new regulator without knowing the one I have is faulty.

But when you decide to replace it, after draining the air, you pull the nut off the end of the airtube where the degass screw is. You will have to loosen the clamping yokes which clamp the barrel to the air tube and then you unscrew the air tube from the action (it has to be empty or it will be a projectile). As long as you drain the air this is totally safe. Your gauge will tell you if the air is drained. If you are lucky, the regulator will come off with the nut. I you are not lucky it will be up in the airtube a little bit and you will need to either give the airtube a blip of air to push the regulator out or find a screw that fits the threads in the end of the regulator to pull it out. It is only the O-rings on the outside of the regulator holding it in. If you use air, be very careful and make sure the airtube is pointed at something safe. Very little air, a very quick open and close, should move it. Or you can take off the nut on the other end of the air tube and use something long to push it out. This is safer.

You seem to want maximum power which is tricky with these guns. The problem is the hammer spring is not real powerful and at higher regulator settings the hammer will not open the valve with the maximum force it can produce. That could be all that is wrong with your gun. If you maximize the regulator with the gun at 70 degrees F and then the ambient air temperature goes to 90 F your velocity can drop because the regulator is too high for the hammer spring at the higher temperature. The air at higher temperature has more energy. How high to set the regulator is thus a bit of a tricky question especially when we have no gauge so we have to use shooting results to see where the velocity falls to guess where the regulator is set. But enough (probably more than enough intro), I would set the regulator definitely below 150 bar and probably no higher than 140 bar. You could try 145 but recognize you may have to open the gun again and turn it down. 130 bar would be a safe choice but you might not like the velocity (although it will probably be higher than you are getting). Huma regulators have a paper tape around the regulator you can use to set it. I don't know how accurate it is but it's nice to have something. The SPA regulator has nothing.

So please do your shot string and find out if the regulator is working. If not, a Huma will be a simple fix. They are good regulators and Huma sells rebuild kits so they should last forever. If the regulator is working, I would turn it down (clockwise) half a turn. That can usually be done by taking the nut the gauge is mounted to off and using an 18 inch extension on a 12mm socket to loosen the lock nut and then a really long straight blade screwdriver to turn the screw. Tighten the lock nut, put the nut back on the air tube and fill with air. If turning the regulator down does not fix the velocity I would take the hammer out and look at it and the tube where it slides. I have never done this on a P15, only side cocking SPAs so I would look for a tear down you tube if you need to disassemble this area. There will be a pin from the cocking lever that may block hammer removal as well as the sear for the trigger. If you get them out of the way the hammer will fall out. You do not want to see sticky grease or oil on the hammer or the tube it slides in. That will reduce hammer force. Lube it with graphite if you want to lube it.

 

[dk-duck]

thank you so much for your help, that to be honest is some very goo info for me, if it is the regulator can i not just fix it with some o ring's that I've got? or would I need a new reg? many thanks for your help
D

 

[Vetmx]

My P15 does not have an air bleed screw. I bleed the air from the cylinder by inserting a little piece I made in place of the hammer spring. Then I just turn the hammer spring adjuster in until I crack the valve and the air drains.

 

[SciueraPlumbea]

The p15 is like p35, you only stand to start losing power after 150b you're out of HS quickly, so you're basically just barely opening the valve and getting a light puff relative to what you'd get at 140-145

mine were set to 145. my X was to 148 from factory, both in .22, 808-816ish with plain p35 and 859-870ish with 21 hn .217s. they all use the same reg and valves, just different plenum size and barrel lengths.

 

[JimD]

Actually the P35X I am working on has a different valve (brass and 7mm in diameter instead of plastic and 8mm) and a different hammer spring. So it makes sense the regulator would be set a little higher. The barrel is also longer and the plenum much bigger, of course. A lot of the parts are still interchangable but not the valve and hammer spring.

If you don't have a bleed screw another option would be to carefully turn the pressure gauge a fraction of a turn. You may have to put a smooth shank screw driver through the hole in the nut for the fill probe and then use the thin walled socket the gun came with on the gauge. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO NOT TURN THE VALVE MORE THAN A LITTLE BIT. If you turn it too much the gauge will fly off and could do damage. Another option would be to turn the air tube a very slight amount out of the action. Again, there are not a ton of threads (but they are bigger on the air tube) and you need some to hold the pressure. I would not do either of these things from full fill pressure. Best to shoot it down some first. You could shoot it all the way down too. But shooting it down to 100 or maybe 150 bar and then cracking a fitting seems reasonable. Or come up with a way to manually open the poppet. You might also see the bleed screw if you rotate the air tube a bit but be very careful doing this under pressure. It also will not turn easily. The nut is 19mm.

 

[SciueraPlumbea]

Actually the P35X I am working on has a different valve (brass and 7mm in diameter instead of plastic and 8mm) and a different hammer spring. So it makes sense the regulator would be set a little higher. The barrel is also longer and the plenum much bigger, of course. A lot of the parts are still interchangable but not the valve and hammer spring.

If you don't have a bleed screw another option would be to carefully turn the pressure gauge a fraction of a turn. You may have to put a smooth shank screw driver through the hole in the nut for the fill probe and then use the thin walled socket the gun came with on the gauge. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO NOT TURN THE VALVE MORE THAN A LITTLE BIT. If you turn it too much the gauge will fly off and could do damage. Another option would be to turn the air tube a very slight amount out of the action. Again, there are not a ton of threads (but they are bigger on the air tube) and you need some to hold the pressure. I would not do either of these things from full fill pressure. Best to shoot it down some first. You could shoot it all the way down too. But shooting it down to 100 or maybe 150 bar and then cracking a fitting seems reasonable. Or come up with a way to manually open the poppet. You might also see the bleed screw if you rotate the air tube a bit but be very careful doing this under pressure. It also will not turn easily. The nut is 19mm.

I had one that was either steel or aluminum and one that was brass.. i never had a plastic one in the base 35.. I wouldn't be shocked with different parts used in different time periods, or maybe mine was already upgraded i do not know as i've had one of each only. Jim, i trust your experience over mine, i know the p35 is your baby.

 

[JimD]

That's interesting. I have a bullshark now too that I think is more recent manufacture. I changed the regulator on it but I don't think I looked at the valve specifically. Next time I have it out I will try to remember to check it. I'm thinking the seat is also different due to the brass valve being 1mm smaller but I did not look at them side by side. If the valve part differences is just the time of manufacture it might help me fix a P35X I have. A 1mm smaller valve should flow more air, however, making a P35 (or bullshark) more powerful and the bullshark I have is very consistent with my P35 in the same caliber from a velocity/power standpoint (maybe slightly higher but no more than 20 fps from the 40mm longer barrel).

 

[JimD]

I had to remove the regulator in my bullshark today and you are right, it is a smaller brass valve. I measured it at 6.5 mm diameter. It seems to seal on a thin ring, however, which is different than the P35X. But it should flow well. The brass valve similarity might mean the P35X 60cc plenum would work on a bullshark.

 

[dk-duck]

thank

The p15 is like p35, you only stand to start losing power after 150b you're out of HS quickly, so you're basically just barely opening the valve and getting a light puff relative to what you'd get at 140-145

mine were set to 145. my X was to 148 from factory, both in .22, 808-816ish with plain p35 and 859-870ish with 21 hn .217s. they all use the same reg and valves, just different plenum size and barrel lengths.

The p15 is like p35, you only stand to start losing power after 150b you're out of HS quickly, so you're basically just barely opening the valve and getting a light puff relative to what you'd get at 140-145

mine were set to 145. my X was to 148 from factory, both in .22, 808-816ish with plain p35 and 859-870ish with 21 hn .217s. they all use the same reg and valves, just different plenum size and barrel lengths.

hi thank you for getting in touch with me i now have with my partner done 2 o ring's 1 near the regulator and 1 near the barrel and they was put on last night after giving the gun a good clean a shot a good few pellets through my chronograph and it was reading better than before, (my partner read) that each time with the chronograph it has to be recalibrated and that's probably why I was getting stupid reading's before, the 10.6 grain bisley was just making it up to 689.14 fps and one or 2 when just above that with the bsa shock 7.56 grain I was getting 803.5fps I'm not sure how to fix the regulator but we're going to give it a go because I know it's not alot but we've watched quite a few video's any more info would be appreciated by anyone if they could please many thank's D

 

[SciueraPlumbea]

thank



hi thank you for getting in touch with me i now have with my partner done 2 o ring's 1 near the regulator and 1 near the barrel and they was put on last night after giving the gun a good clean a shot a good few pellets through my chronograph and it was reading better than before, (my partner read) that each time with the chronograph it has to be recalibrated and that's probably why I was getting stupid reading's before, the 10.6 grain bisley was just making it up to 689.14 fps and one or 2 when just above that with the bsa shock 7.56 grain I was getting 803.5fps I'm not sure how to fix the regulator but we're going to give it a go because I know it's not alot but we've watched quite a few video's any more info would be appreciated by anyone if they could please many thank's D

unless you have a regulator tester it's going to be difficult. Also with 177 I don't know the operating pressures best for the platform, i've only had .22s. If you have the FAC version I'm sure you can increase velocity a good bit more than that. The easiest solution for you to increase power and KNOW the power you're at is to order the HUMA-AIR p15 power tune reg with the XL plenum. That simple purchase will go a looooong way.

Artemis P15 Power Tune Regulator and XL Plenum By Huma-Air

Huma-Air P15 pressure regulator with XL plenum. The upgrade when it comes to power. This set gives you more consistency and speed! A must have.

huma-air.com

 

[dk-duck]

unless you have a regulator tester it's going to be difficult. Also with 177 I don't know the operating pressures best for the platform, i've only had .22s. If you have the FAC version I'm sure you can increase velocity a good bit more than that. The easiest solution for you to increase power and KNOW the power you're at is to order the HUMA-AIR p15 power tune reg with the XL plenum. That simple purchase will go a looooong way.

Artemis P15 Power Tune Regulator and XL Plenum By Huma-Air

Huma-Air P15 pressure regulator with XL plenum. The upgrade when it comes to power. This set gives you more consistency and speed! A must have.

huma-air.com

hi thank you for your help much appreciated I've got a problem now I'm trying to take the air chamber out and it's getting stuck between the yoke's and am very unsure about messing with the gun incase(with my luck) the whole gun will fall apart lol, is there a safe way to remove it so I can get to the regulator by any chance? many thank's to everyone for your help and now I've leaded the barrel, it's had a minimum of 250 through today, and still giving bad reading's I will write them down later and show them.

 

[SciueraPlumbea]

hi thank you for your help much appreciated I've got a problem now I'm trying to take the air chamber out and it's getting stuck between the yoke's and am very unsure about messing with the gun incase(with my luck) the whole gun will fall apart lol, is there a safe way to remove it so I can get to the regulator by any chance? many thank's to everyone for your help and now I've leaded the barrel, it's had a minimum of 250 through today, and still giving bad reading's I will write them down later and show them.

It's definitely a pain in the butt, but you'll be fine, I'm sure you're talking about the two a frame risers that hold the rail? just loosen those two hex heads a bit and you'll get it out just fine. PROTECT that damn connection oring at all cost because it's a pain. Just keep your screws in check and you'll be just fine.

 

[dk-duck]

My P15 does not have an air bleed screw. I bleed the air from the cylinder by inserting a little piece I made in place of the hammer spring. Then I just turn the hammer spring adjuster in until I crack the valve and the air drains.

hi I've now removed the regulator and I've found that the o ring around the regulator is really woren out it's so big that it just fall's off and the other 2 have had it as well so there's no need for me to mess around with anything is there? Just replace the o ring's, so I'm assuming that was the problem then? many thank's and to everyone else who has helped me out in some way

 

[Vetmx]

hi I've now removed the regulator and I've found that the o ring around the regulator is really woren out it's so big that it just fall's off and the other 2 have had it as well so there's no need for me to mess around with anything is there? Just replace the o ring's, so I'm assuming that was the problem then? many thank's and to everyone else who has helped me out in some way

Yes. And just for fun sit the two bloated orings somewhere and check on them in a few days. They will probably return to normal size. It’s just the money saving junk they stick in these guns. When I was buying guns from Snowpeak, I never even shot them. I replaced every oring and then started shooting. Good luck. Hopefully no internal reg orings are bad. But for now. Just do the outer ones. And when you screw the air tube back on, stop the second it stops. This stuff on airguns doesn’t have gaskets. It has orings so it doesn’t have to be death grip tight.

 

[dk-duck]

Yes. And just for fun sit the two bloated orings somewhere and check on them in a few days. They will probably return to normal size. It’s just the money saving junk they stick in these guns. When I was buying guns from Snowpeak, I never even shot them. I replaced every oring and then started shooting. Good luck. Hopefully no internal reg orings are bad. But for now. Just do the outer ones. And when you screw the air tube back on, stop the second it stops. This stuff on airguns doesn’t have gaskets. It has orings so it doesn’t have to be death grip tight.

lol thank you so much for your help. y friend and all your help and advise, if thing's do still end up the same, which I'm hoping not I'll have no choice but to buy the huma mate, I will try that with the o ring's and I'll let you know if there's big trouble in little China with the gun thank you

 

[dk-duck]

lol thank you so much for your help. y friend and all your help and advise, if thing's do still end up the same, which I'm hoping not I'll have no choice but to buy the huma mate, I will try that with the o ring's and I'll let you know if there's big trouble in little China with the gun thank you

oh no I can't believe it mate I don't know what's happend but because my partner has been working on it lll (she's normally good with thing's) but for some reason it's not done anything to it so it look's like it's a huma regulator mate do you know thd exact one by any chance? thank you

 

[Vetmx]

I put a Huma in mine back in 2017. The reg got here before the gun did. But I believe now they offer 2 different size regs for P15‘s. It depends on the internal diameter of your air tube. I will take a look at Huma’s sight and see if there is an easier way to determine which one you need without having to measure the ID of your tube.