EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

I just ordered a thermal red dot To stick on my L2 with a magnifier - I’m pretty excited - I think it will be an ideal combo

Has anyone else been tempted for the Holosun DRS-TH?
I'm looking into thermal for my Leshiy 2, but for the amount of $ they want for the DRS-TH there are much better options available and they are cheaper. Most have issues with the low res screen for the price they're asking. I'm currently looking for the DNT TNC335r, but having trouble locating one, at the price I want. I like it because it does regular digital (day time), night vision (night time) and, thermal (night time) all in one unit that is reasonably sized and priced for you get.
 
delooper- I read the whole thread, cool that another L2 user has bought one!

How are you finding it? personally I don’t shoot much further than 50 or 60 yards that often and I use it for a bit of pesting etc but tbh I just wanted to “pimp my leshiy” haha!

Have you tried it with a magnifier?

No, I haven't tried it with a magnifier yet. I've seen reviews where people do that and it looks fine.

For me, 30 yards is a long shot so for most purposes this is all I need. I haven't used it enough to give a well-informed opinion. Need to take it to the range since I haven't had many pests to shoot at for a while. But I'll try to take it to the range soon.
 
So the thermal dot is pretty awesome, works well with a 3x magnifier - I’m kind of stumped at this point, in what ways could I further “pimp my leshiy” 😂
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So the thermal dot is pretty awesome, works well with a 3x magnifier - I’m kind of stumped at this point, in what ways could I further “pimp my leshiy” 😂View attachment 564653View attachment 564652

I'm sure there'll be an even better hybrid optic in another year or two. It appears to be one of the biggest trends in firearms technologies these days.


The main improvements I'd imagine seeing are 1) integrating a lidar ranger 2) integrating more optics such as near IR 3) having software internally deal with the lens offset using (1) to avoid the new "height over bore" issues of all the different lenses, i.e. you could have all the various images perfectly overlap at any reasonable range.
 
Yes I’m sure there will be improvements- I honestly haven’t really used it much yet but it looks cool!

Currently I have just zeroed the dot to 18 yards giving me a second zero at 41 yards and a 1.25 inch kill zone anywhere between 12 and 45 yards according to this nifty calculator I used

Not really put it to the test yet but I just zeroed the thermal crosshair right over the red dot

I did wonder about the height over bore difference with the lense height

I can’t get my head around it either, what does this mean in the real world? I am planning to do some shooting later
 
Yes I’m sure there will be improvements- I honestly haven’t really used it much yet but it looks cool!

Currently I have just zeroed the dot to 18 yards giving me a second zero at 41 yards and a 1.25 inch kill zone anywhere between 12 and 45 yards according to this nifty calculator I used

Not really put it to the test yet but I just zeroed the thermal crosshair right over the red dot

I did wonder about the height over bore difference with the lense height

I can’t get my head around it either, what does this mean in the real world? I am planning to do some shooting later

The height over bore issue is that the thermal optic is above the optical red-dot optic. So it's like you have two scopes on your rifle, and one is higher than the other. So the "height over bore" issue is more pronounced with the thermal than the red-dot.

If you zero for targets reasonably far away, the only targets this would make a meaningful difference on would be extreme close-range targets. If you zero for close-range shots it would have a more pronounced effect on long-range shots.

Just load up a ballistic calculator and put all the same data in but try the two different height over bores and see what happens.
 
I'd imagine if you're running a modest calibre all the noise would be coming from the action, not the business-end of the gun.
I was just wondering the same, and I’ve tried it out with my (high powered) .25. When I ordered the behemoth I took two extra chambers for max sound reduction. It works as a charm. However lately I was wondering if I really needed the chambers. So I removed all of them as a test, just sticking to the first and last chamber. It was a little bit louder, but not by much. However it didn’t look so great (dimensions a little off) so I added another chamber in between. Now it’s still pretty quiet and it looks a lot better.
So you’d be surprised how little chambers you need for proper sound reduction.
 
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The height over bore issue is that the thermal optic is above the optical red-dot optic. So it's like you have two scopes on your rifle, and one is higher than the other. So the "height over bore" issue is more pronounced with the thermal than the red-dot.

If you zero for targets reasonably far away, the only targets this would make a meaningful difference on would be extreme close-range targets. If you zero for close-range shots it would have a more pronounced effect on long-range shots.

Just load up a ballistic calculator and put all the same data in but try the two different height over bores and see what happens.
So if I have zeroed the Red dot perfectly and now switch on the thermal and turn off the crosshair for the thermal and use the red dot as my point of aim - will my zero now be too low or high because of the difference in height over bore of the thermal?
 
So if I have zeroed the Red dot perfectly and now switch on the thermal and turn off the crosshair for the thermal and use the red dot as my point of aim - will my zero now be too low or high because of the difference in height over bore of the thermal?

It'll depend on your distance to target. If you set the two crosshairs to agree at 20yards, they'll be slightly off at 10 and 30 yards. Because the thermal is further from the bore, it would be pointing to a target lower than the red dot at 30 yards, and above the red dot at 10 yards.

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Here is a rather sketchy illustration. The projectile travels in a roughly parabolic trajectory. The red dot shows you light, which travels on a straight line. So there's three points of intersection (*). The main thing is before the cyan and red lines intersect, the cyan is above the red. Afterwards, the cyan is below the red.

(*) Technically if I drew this figure out far enough there'd be an additional two points of intersection where the projectilie comes back down and crashes through the colored lines again.

This additional information of the two lines not always meeting up can be used as a tool. If you're on-target and the thermal is a bit above the red dot, that means your target is closer than the distance where they meet. So if you've measured that distance ahead of time, it could help you compensate for the distance, i.e. it's a primitive range-finder. Similarly if the red is above the cyan, you know the target is beyond the distance where they meet.

I sometimes use this strategy in other ways. On a short-range pistol I have two tiny laser pointers. One is green, one is blue, and they're mounted on the sides of the pistol. So if I'm on target with the two pointers and green is to the right of blue, I know my target is closer than 20 yards. Reversed, and I know my target is beyond 20 yards. They're zeroed for 20 yards, so with this pistol I can often just shoot from the hip.
 
It'll depend on your distance to target. If you set the two crosshairs to agree at 20yards, they'll be slightly off at 10 and 30 yards. Because the thermal is further from the bore, it would be pointing to a target lower than the red dot at 30 yards, and above the red dot at 10 yards.

View attachment 566008
Here is a rather sketchy illustration. The projectile travels in a roughly parabolic trajectory. The red dot shows you light, which travels on a straight line. So there's three points of intersection (*). The main thing is before the cyan and red lines intersect, the cyan is above the red. Afterwards, the cyan is below the red.

(*) Technically if I drew this figure out far enough there'd be an additional two points of intersection where the projectilie comes back down and crashes through the colored lines again.

This additional information of the two lines not always meeting up can be used as a tool. If you're on-target and the thermal is a bit above the red dot, that means your target is closer than the distance where they meet. So if you've measured that distance ahead of time, it could help you compensate for the distance, i.e. it's a primitive range-finder. Similarly if the red is above the cyan, you know the target is beyond the distance where they meet.

I sometimes use this strategy in other ways. On a short-range pistol I have two tiny laser pointers. One is green, one is blue, and they're mounted on the sides of the pistol. So if I'm on target with the two pointers and green is to the right of blue, I know my target is closer than 20 yards. Reversed, and I know my target is beyond 20 yards. They're zeroed for 20 yards, so with this pistol I can often just shoot from the hip.
Thank you so much for taking the time to give me such an informative and detailed response - i see what your saying and it is a little bit of an annoying issue that hopefully one day they will be able to figure a way to have the thermal somehow integrated into the same bore height or even mounted side by side perhaps ? Hmmm its a hard one to get your head around but the diagram certainly helps to unravel the complexity of trying to figure out the relationship between the two lenses