Anyone own one of the replica air/handguns like Glock, Sig, Beretta, ETC? any suggestions for a decent quality model that shoots fairly well and accurate out to say 15 yards.
Replica's
- Thread starter coastal drifter
- Start date
The m1 has so much potential, id like to see it become very popular. They just need to make it last longer than 1000 shots with its 23 round per second capability. My fire control parts lasted 43 seconds by the math 
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I am happy that you got the M1 working again.
As far as lubrication is concerned I have been using different "CST" rated (thickness) of silicone oils on my BB guns pistils and rifles. There are some out in the Airgun world that claim that silicone oil should not be used on Airguns, I do not agree. For metals that come under great stress like engines, transmissions, drills, other mechanical devices etc. is true. However Airguns never reach the level of pressures that would ever come close to this kind of pressure. Secondly silicone oil will not decay the rubber/syntactic plastics on the gun seals, all petroleum oils WILL eventually degrade rubber/syntactic plastics.
I use a silicone oil rated 350 CST for the internal mechanical parts (trigger, slides, safeties etc.) and for all BBs I use a silicone of CST 100 that I run thru the guns. This is enough to lubricate the BBs and seals that the BBs go thru and the barrel. I just add a few squirts the container that I keep the BBs in to cover all of the BBs.
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Interesting this "white metal" you describe. I'm assuming we are not referencing Zamak, which is what a lot of people call "pot metal" Probably the best (worst?) example in firearms being High Point.
We often do not consider the quality of the materials themselves today. There are those of us that recall the Chinese steel of a couple decades ago.
Materials matter!
We often do not consider the quality of the materials themselves today. There are those of us that recall the Chinese steel of a couple decades ago.
Materials matter!
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I have 1 petro based for linear movement and a ton of silicone everything for my fx guns. I got ahold of crosman and I'm going to send it in. According to the rep I talked to, I may have a fluke. The real bummer is they were closed Friday and I sat on hold for 3 hours on a system hiccup
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Materials do matter. Lubricants matter as well! Ofttimes cheapo China can deliver better service by using very high quality lubricants. My El Cheapo HPA pump being a good example. It's first 3-5 hours of run time were done with just OK quality semi synthetic compressor oil. That oil was replaced with Ingersoll-Rand full synthetic oil, I-R knows compressors, they double the warranty on IR pumps if you buy their IR synthetic oil. I also focus on dry and clean feed air for the pump, and use gallons not quarts of water to keep the temperature low. I try to keep the pump temperature below 70 centigrade. A big water reservoir is helpful. I just use the sink next to it fill it half full. So far so good. My last bottle of air filled faster, pump is breaking in.
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I tend to be the perpetual tuner and dial everything up. This one I wanted to just have fun and not chase something crazy like I have with my 22xx guns 13xx guns or my high end PCPs.. A smooth bore, bone stock bb shooter for fun sounded nice, and it's turned into more of a hassle than dialing up an fx impact. That's the real disappointment. I've got a crosman from the 70s that's been flawless my entire life and I got it from my dad who never did a thing to it since he bought it. I wish it had that sort of reliability.
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Man do I hear you! I have the same sort of experience with Crossman BB Guna in my youth. All single pump or multiple pump compressed air guns. Very few Co2 BB guns. They were built stronger and better back then; without lawyers demanding to make cheaper parts, or move offshore, using cheaper labor so they could squeeze more profit out, Screw the item sustainability and quality, no profit there.
Anyway I also have a little fixer in my blood, more of an engineer/creator than a tuner... I suppose I just described a 'tuner". Oh well, Great to have a chance to have a chat with you sir!
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I should really post pictures of my pistol (BB guns). I have not done that before, in any case here are my Umarex Legends' full auto guns. I will post my pistols later.
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The Grease Gun; Turns out that I do like it. I bought it because it was a WWII gun and it was used for about 20 years after WWII, The thing is that I like it because it was easy to fix (check out my Mag repair vids Parts 1 & 2); and had a 53 BBs (staggered holds 50) or so mag and was a the M3a1 has slower rate of fire that the Thompson and the MP40.
Also it does a much better job at using the C02 then the MP40 about 4-5 Mags. The M1A1 takes about six (6 BB lodes) to run out of C02 because of the Mag holds only 30 BB capacity.
Only two items that you should know about the M3a1,
(1) make sure that all of the C02 is empty before changing the C02
(2) Make sure that the sear is well oiled.
It is an accurate gun, so yes I like it and am happy I bought it. Right now it is less expensive than the others.
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We still had them in our armory back when I was in the National Guard back in the late 80's. I got out in 1991 and I think they might have been phased out by then, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if they hadn't. I don't recall ever seeing them being used, but we did have to clean them occasionally anyway.
I've actually found that all of the legends guns seem to be quite accurate by BB gun standards. The cowboy rifle is a smooth bore, but it still shoots about 1" groups at 20 yards with pellets.
IMO, the worst of the bunch is the M1 carbine. It's quite realistic, but it's a real gas hog, the mags feel like lead bricks and only hold 1 cartridge and 15 BB's and they don't fit in a GI Mag pouch, so the pouch on the buttstock ends up holding co2 cartridges instead.
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The crosman is a co2 pig as well. Looking at the internals it's possible to remote line the thing with some serious mad scientist work since there's a gas tube going down the side of the action from the factory twin co2 tube. Probably about as bad as pcp converting a 1322 thru the side ( been there).
Since you've been thru the armory, there's no excuse for these replica guns to be harder to deal with than rebuilding the things you saw in the armory from torch cut parts and removing the nfa bits.
Crosman currently has my gun, and I've had time to think about what I found. Mim or die cast aluminum parts being asked to do the job of hardened steel components in a firearm fcg. They half heartedly put a steel tab on the bcg to help, but the breaking surfaces get mushroomed really fast. The day I shipped mine off I found a potential solution in tolerances in the fcg/selector/safety. If I held the safety cocked downward with significant force, the gun would cycle and lock back.
The service rep on the phone assured me it's been a reliable model but that's subjective and I don't believe him with that internal construction.
Attached is the metal tab cast in place to reduce wear, which would work if it were the entire contact surface.... It isn't.
It was accurate and fun enough I would've paid 250-300 for it if it had some improvements in the fcg, and gas options. Like an adapter that could be remote lined at a table for extended plinking that came out where a sling swivel conventionally does or just behind the grip. I've never had a smooth bore bb shooter be as accurate as this was since the mid 90s.
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I’ve got the Crosman M1 as well and it’s way more frugal with the CO2 than the Umarex is. It’s nowhere near as solidly built however.
That’s my biggest gripe with Crosman in general. They seem to have the need to cheapen every component of their products hardwired into their DNA.
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I said I would post my C02 gun collection and it was (and is) such a beautiful day that I decided to go and do it. So here they are, as a reminder they are all C02 BB/pellet guns except the single shot Benjamin, it is a .22 Cal pellet gun. Little Gun BIG HITTER. Enjoy.
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