Snowpeak relocate P35x cocking lever to the left

[bowopt]

Hi,

I recently purchased a Snowpeak P35X and noticed that the cocking lever is advertised as ambidextrous on the website. I would like to relocate it to the left side but have been unable to find any instructional videos on YouTube. Do you have any resources or could someone share their procedure for this modification?

Additionally, I've noticed a metal-to-metal scraping sound when I cock the rifle. The first-stage trigger feels too long, while the second stage is both lengthy and stiff, which doesn't suit my preference. I've read that many owners polish their P35X to smooth out any imperfections from the factory. Could you advise me on which parts to polish or specific procedures you recommend?

Moreover, I believe the regulator on my .177 model is set from the factory at 135 or 140 bar, with a maximum speed of 1014 FPS for 10-grain pellets by balancing the hammer with the regulator pressure. I don’t need that much speed, and I would like to reduce it to a maximum of 940 FPS for 10-grain pellets. Do you have an idea of what regulator pressure is needed for this? Since the regulator is unmarked, any tips on how to adjust it to the desired pressure would be appreciated. I want to avoid too much trial and error, as I have previously damaged my P35 by doing too much disassembly and reassembly.

Thank you!

 

[RabbitofCaerbannog]

Hi,

I recently purchased a Snowpeak P35X and noticed that the cocking lever is advertised as ambidextrous on the website. I would like to relocate it to the left side but have been unable to find any instructional videos on YouTube. Do you have any resources or could someone share their procedure for this modification?

Additionally, I've noticed a metal-to-metal scraping sound when I cock the rifle. The first-stage trigger feels too long, while the second stage is both lengthy and stiff, which doesn't suit my preference. I've read that many owners polish their P35X to smooth out any imperfections from the factory. Could you advise me on which parts to polish or specific procedures you recommend?

Moreover, I believe the regulator on my .177 model is set from the factory at 135 or 140 bar, with a maximum speed of 1014 FPS for 10-grain pellets by balancing the hammer with the regulator pressure. I don’t need that much speed, and I would like to reduce it to a maximum of 940 FPS for 10-grain pellets. Do you have an idea of what regulator pressure is needed for this? Since the regulator is unmarked, any tips on how to adjust it to the desired pressure would be appreciated. I want to avoid too much trial and error, as I have previously damaged my P35 by doing too much disassembly and reassembly.

Thank you!

taking the cocking lever off.

First, take the cheek rest off of the receiver, Disconnect the action/cocking bar, that long metal bar.. pull it out. There is a loose retaining pin in the Cocking arm piece which was held in place by that action rod, don't lose it, You're basically going to flip the lever around and instead of the block which cocks the bar being secure in the front, its going to be on the back of the rod near the rear of the rail track. Loosen the cocking handle, flip it. im pretty sure its either 2mm or possibly 1.5mm. you'll have to knock out the dowel rod pin on the piece on the swivel point where the cocking lever is secured to the outside of the frame

The p35x is very forgiving with the hammer spring tension. You might be able to dial down on the HS to that velocity with consistency suffering very little. Mine is a .22 shoots 18.1 at 930 at stock settings. Easily able to dial down and retain a 1.89 SD with an Extreme spread of 8fps.

 

[JimD]

I tried to change the cocking handle on my P35-25 just to see if I could and it eventually loosened up and then I had trouble keeping it tight. Maybe others are more skilled at this than I am but I am not going to mess with it again. I had no problem moving my Caiman's cocking from the left to the right but the P35 is on the right so I have no real need to move it. The problem I had is the end of the cocking lever is held into place with grub screws and they can loosen allowing the mechanism to slide and the gun won't cock.

Trigger adjustments on the P35X are very easy if it is like the P35. There is a spring that looks a bit like it came from a ball point pen on the rod that transfers the cocking motion to the rear. It has a collar with a grub screw but the screw is really tiny. If you loosen it and let the spring expand you will make the first stage much lighter and will lighten the second stage significantly too. I have slight tension on one or two of my P35s and the spring totally relaxed on others. It doesn't make a difference in how the gun functions. If you have too much second stage travel you need to reduce the sear engagement. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU MESS WITH THIS. If you set it too light the gun will go off without you touching the trigger. On the bottom of the action there is a small screw sticking out a little with a lock nut. That screw controls the sear engagement. Turning it clockwise (after loosening the lock nut) will reduce sear engagement. Do not mess with it with ammo in the gun. You have to take the action out of the stock to make either change (two screws from below). I take the action out, loosen the lock nut and then turn the screw a small amount. Not more than half a turn. Cock the gun but keep your hand on the cocking lever and try the trigger. It's kind of like decocking it. Once you have it where you like it tighten the lock nut and then cock the gun and smack it a few times with your hand to be sure it won't go off. Then put it in the stock and bump the stock into the floor or something with the gun cocked. It's really important to be sure you don't have it set too light. You also need to check the safety function. The safety just blocks the trigger so it is possible to set the trigger in a position that the safety won't work. But if you work carefully it is very possible to have about a 1 lb crisp trigger that is completely safe on a P35.

 

[RabbitofCaerbannog]

I tried to change the cocking handle on my P35-25 just to see if I could and it eventually loosened up and then I had trouble keeping it tight. Maybe others are more skilled at this than I am but I am not going to mess with it again. I had no problem moving my Caiman's cocking from the left to the right but the P35 is on the right so I have no real need to move it. The problem I had is the end of the cocking lever is held into place with grub screws and they can loosen allowing the mechanism to slide and the gun won't cock.

Trigger adjustments on the P35X are very easy if it is like the P35. There is a spring that looks a bit like it came from a ball point pen on the rod that transfers the cocking motion to the rear. It has a collar with a grub screw but the screw is really tiny. If you loosen it and let the spring expand you will make the first stage much lighter and will lighten the second stage significantly too. I have slight tension on one or two of my P35s and the spring totally relaxed on others. It doesn't make a difference in how the gun functions. If you have too much second stage travel you need to reduce the sear engagement. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU MESS WITH THIS. If you set it too light the gun will go off without you touching the trigger. On the bottom of the action there is a small screw sticking out a little with a lock nut. That screw controls the sear engagement. Turning it clockwise (after loosening the lock nut) will reduce sear engagement. Do not mess with it with ammo in the gun. You have to take the action out of the stock to make either change (two screws from below). I take the action out, loosen the lock nut and then turn the screw a small amount. Not more than half a turn. Cock the gun but keep your hand on the cocking lever and try the trigger. It's kind of like decocking it. Once you have it where you like it tighten the lock nut and then cock the gun and smack it a few times with your hand to be sure it won't go off. Then put it in the stock and bump the stock into the floor or something with the gun cocked. It's really important to be sure you don't have it set too light. You also need to check the safety function. The safety just blocks the trigger so it is possible to set the trigger in a position that the safety won't work. But if you work carefully it is very possible to have about a 1 lb crisp trigger that is completely safe on a P35.

the cocking lever joints can loosen, remedied by thicker gauge E clips or the use of shim washers. The slippage on the cocking bar by the grub screws can be remedied by a tiny divot dremeled to catch a pointed tip grub, or filing a tiny flat for a blunt grub screw.


your point on 2’d stage sear engagement is dead on.

mine breaks at 1lb 3oz.

 

[bowopt]

Does anyone know how to lower the regulator by roughly 5 bar?

And what do you usually do to make the P35X feel smoother?

 

[JimD]

Regulator adjustment can be done through either end of the airtube. The gauge end is easiest but requires a really long straight blade screwdriver and a 12mm socket on a long extension. It should have come with a very thin wall socket that fits the gauge. Depressurize (screw at the rear side of the airtube) and try and turn the gauge counterclockwise. Usually the nut that the gauge is on comes off which is what you want. That opens the end of the airtube and you can see the reg at the other end. Loosen the locknut and turn the screw clockwise to reduce pressure and counterclockwise to raise it. Normally you want to go a fraction of a turn. It's a good idea to replace the O ring on the big nut and the little one in it that makes the one way valve, especially if it's original. There is no stop on the nut going in. I turn it until the nut looks about flush and the fill port is horizontal.

 

[JimD]

With respect to smoother cocking of the P35 "oneacrefarmer" had a great idea I have used on all 3 of my P35s. He located a small knurled nut for 1/4 coarse threads. I drilled out slightly my cocking arm, tapped it to 1/4 coarse threads, put a short piece of all thread through the cocking arm and put two of these nuts on the all thread. I used thread locker on the nuts and then put a dab of 5 minute epoxy on the ends of the nuts just to dress it up a little. I think this hack looks good but it also makes the cocking feel smoother because you can pull on both sides of the cocking arm. He posted a link in his thread about making a nice walnut stock for his Bullshark.

Another thing I did for my P35-177 is to take a little slop out of the pivot points of the cocking arm by drilling out the pivots and putting in a very short piece of stainless steel tubing to create a tight fit. It is not terribly difficult to do this nor does it cost much but it also doesn't do a lot to make the cocking feel better. It does tighten it up but I am not sure it is worth the trip.

5 bar is not a very large regulator change. I like to orient the gun with a line through the bore and scope in a specific orientation and then judge the slot in the regulator screw by an imaginary clock. The slot will pint at 1 or 2 or 3 or whatever. Especially if you want to make a small change It is important to keep track of where you were and where you went. I would probably try no more than a 1/4 turn to change the regulator by 5 bar. It may be less than that. When you tighten the locking nut you can shift the screw slot a little so it is a bit tricky to make fine adjustments. At the other end of the airtube. Not easy to see what is going on.