Swarm Magnum 10X gen3i and slugs

I have a Swarm Magnum gen3i can I shoot slugs out of it . If no ok why
Yes and no... Since nobody stopped by to say hello and answer your question, I decided to do it :)
Here's the thing, there may be nothing wrong with your rifle and you won't be able to shoot slugs out of it. That is simply because no two different guns, (gas-springers in your case), of exactly the same model, are in fact the same, even if they've come from the exact same assembly line, or otherwise belong in the same category of guns, of a specific brand or manufacturer. The reason for that hides in the bore dimensions, which are nothing alike from model to model, except on maybe guns that are of utmost, highest quality and in the highest price ranges - Gamos are no such guns. The milling or perhaps boreing machines that are used to make such guns, such as your Gamo, are not particulary precise and will therefore not be able to make barrels in the same dimensions, each and every time. So, with that having been said, your barrel might like slugs or it might hate them, however if you're going to try another gun of the same model, it's quite likely that it'll like slugs, or hate them for that matter, depending on how close the dimensions of the bore are going to be...

Get yourself some slugs and try them out, you've really got nothing to lose, except a few pennies ;)
By the way, is your Swarm Mag in .22 or in .177 ? I'd like to make a suggestion on the weight of the slugs, that I'd recommend you to buy... Also depending on which you've got available in your state. But personally, I'd kind of go for lower weight H&Ns in 21gr-25gr range, or perhaps for some lead-free options...
 
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Yes and no... Since nobody stopped by to say hello and answer your question, I decided to do it :)
Here's the thing, there may be nothing wrong with your rifle and you won't be able to shoot slugs out of it. That is simply because no two different guns, (gas-springers in your case), of exactly the same model, are in fact the same, even if they've come from the exact same assembly line, or otherwise belong in the same category of guns, of a specific brand or manufacturer. The reason for that hides in the bore dimensions, which are nothing alike from model to model, except on maybe guns that are of utmost, highest quality and in the highest price ranges - Gamos are no such guns. The milling or perhaps boreing machines that are used to make such guns, such as your Gamo, are not particulary precise and will therefore not be able to make barrels in the same dimensions, each and every time. So, with that having been said, your barrel might like slugs or it might hate them, however if you're going to try another gun of the same model, it's quite likely that it'll like slugs, or hate them for that matter, depending on how close the dimensions of the bore are going to be...

Get yourself some slugs and try them out, you've really got nothing to lose, except a few pennies ;)
By the way, is your Swarm Mag in .22 or in .177 ? I'd like to make a suggestion on the weight of the slugs, that I'd recommend you to buy... Also depending on which you've got available in your state. But personally, I'd kind of go for lower weight H&Ns in 21gr-25gr range, or perhaps for some lead-free options...
thank you very much for the info . I am very new to air guns and will have a lot of questions in the future
 
thank you very much for the info . I am very new to air guns and will have a lot of questions in the future
Here's the proof, that slugs DO in fact work in break barrels...

By the way, there was another video of a guy on YT, that had a Gamo Magnum, just like yours, and he was also shooting H&N slugs through it, hole through hole @25yds. Magnum springers, provided they have the right bore dimensions and properly polished barrels (not always the case for absoulte success, but a very good start nevertheless), can shoot slugs pretty well. Of course, barrel harmonics also come into play with slugs, because of their divergent weight distribution and center of gravity. However, when it comes down to the finishing process of the barrels, there it's also a matter of quality control, not only of the whole composition and the overall integrity of the materials in their construction.

I recently began testing my Hatsan mod 125 - Standard, poly-stock version, spring-piston driven mechanism; When I bought it almost a year ago, I only shot it so far, as to break it in, but now, almost a year later, I started testing it thoroughly, even with slugs. I'm going to make a post about it soon, but I've only started getting a grip on the gun, as I've shot it the wrong way this whole time thus far... I should've rested the fore-end of the stock into my open palm and loosely hold the grip in place, whilst also leaning, or otherwise digging the rear end of the stock firmly into my shoulder in order to get good results with the gun. What I was also able to find out about the model 125 is, that it is more or less irrelevant which version you get, every 125 version, whether it's the Sniper, Dominator, Thumbhole stocked version, they're all hold sensitive... However, the Sniper and the Dominator versions with their own types of stocks, kick less due to their heavier weight, but are just as hold sensitive, as the standard version and I honestly have to say, that I like the Standard version, with it's basic, but nicely ornamented stock the most, because of the lowest weight of them all - it's a well built magnum, not particulary known to be a barrel drooper, and a powerful one at that, which you can actually carry around with a mounted scope; For the Sniper version, with it's "suppressed" barrel and a heavier stock, topped off with a scope, would simply be too much for me to carry around all day... Standard version for the WIN, due to it's lower weight - even though it kicks a little more than the Sniper variant, but the kick itself doesn't interfere with the accuracy, the HOLD DOES, as is the case with all of the 125/135 magnums and with other brands of magnums as well - Gamo, Crosman/Benjamin XL... et cetera. And as I've therefore already laid out, how you hold your 125 is important, not how much it kicks when you pull the trigger.
 
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