AGN I need your guidance! [SOLVED]

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Ok, I know zero about that gun. So, the jam is where it's loading into the barrel and you cannot tap it out. If this is the case, can you CAREFULLY try to drill it out? Is there any gap what so ever between the Mag and unit for a really thin jewelers saw to get in there to cut the pellet in half? Just tossing ideas out until someone has a real answer.
 
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HogKiller said:
Ok, I know zero about that gun. So, the jam is where it's loading into the barrel and you cannot tap it out. If this is the case, can you CAREFULLY try to drill it out? Is there any gap what so ever between the Mag and unit for a really thin jewelers saw to get in there to cut the pellet in half? Just tossing ideas out until someone has a real answer.
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It’s the width of a piece of paper. The Evanix mags fit quite well but I suppose it’s possible. I’m thinking maybe like a razor blade the size of a small/med chisel…?

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Bernie7 said:
It’s the width of a piece of paper. The Evanix mags fit quite well but I suppose it’s possible. I’m thinking maybe like a razor blade the size of a small/med chisel…?

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So .003" or less. Let me see what comes up. When you try to tap it back in, be firm, a little at a time. I've had pellets stuck in my barrel on more then a few occasions, not fun. Crud, the thinnest on a fast search is .008".
 
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I’ve seen and fixed similar problems with marauders and an Impact once.
IF the ONLY piece holding the mag in place is the pellet AND NOT THE PROBE! you can TAP the side of the mag GENTLY with a RUBBER MALLET and a short piece of wood preferably a piece of dowel rod about 4” long.
Rest the action securely on firm but not solid (Caldwell gun bags come to mind or high density EVA foam blocks) and tap firmly on the side of the magazine. The pellet will shear off (because the lead is softer than the magazine and the barrel) leaving possibly half (?) in the leade part of the barrel and half in the mag.
Once you have cleared the mag from the action, action (or cock) the the gun. Pointing in a safe direction, fire the remaining piece from the barrel.
Inspect the magazine for any remaining parts of the pellet and clean.
Please don’t use a metal hammer or a dead blow. Rubber is best and should not cause any damage if you don’t just try to wack it. Use a piece of wood against the magazine and not something like a socket.
Everything needs to be impact absorbent for best results.
Good luck and let us know you outcome.
 
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Bernie7 said:
@HogKiller @Asher Thank you both, I was starting to get a little discouraged and now I’m feeling pretty darn good. I’m gonna keep disassembling it and do a full proper clean, lube, and polish
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Just don't lube with Silicon anything. I have a serious love affair with Mobile 1 0-5 and Tri-flow. I use the Mobile in my pew-pews and my Mavericks. The Silicon destroys anodizing, ok for o-rings but not for anything else.
 
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HogKiller said:
Just don't lube with Silicon anything. I have a serious love affair with Mobile 1 0-5 and Tri-flow. I use the Mobile in my pew-pews and my Mavericks. The Silicon destroys anodizing, ok for o-rings but not for anything else.
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I got silicon super lube for the o rings, moly paste for bolt and metal-metal contact and then frog lube for everything else. Seems like I should be using alcohol or something to strip all the existing products off metal before frog lube though? Should I just clean down everything that’s not plastic with the alcohol? I know on a pew pew they have special products to deal with the carbon & copper buildup but seems like those are unnecessary for pneumatics…? Amazing how much different advice I’ve come across. Any guides or videos you recommend for maintenance please send my way!
 
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Bernie7 said:
I got silicon super lube for the o rings, moly paste for bolt and metal-metal contact and then frog lube for everything else. Seems like I should be using alcohol or something to strip all the existing products off metal before frog lube though? Should I just clean down everything that’s not plastic with the alcohol? I know on a pew pew they have special products to deal with the carbon & copper buildup but seems like those are unnecessary for pneumatics…? Amazing how much different advice I’ve come across. Any guides or videos you recommend for maintenance please send my way!
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I own a small embroidery shop, we have to lube parts of our machines, some times several times a day. I started using M1 the lightest avaliable and now, it's weekly to monthly, it's that slick. I've been using it on the pew pews semi's the hot dirty ones and zero issues. Just a really light coat. Triggers, any moving parts, either the M1 or Tri-flow will work miracle's. I'd keep it away from the bore, not sure what high pressure air will do with either of them and I don't want to find out...ok...I'm dumb enough to give the M1 a try, I've got spare barrels. Some bags and a string (16oz trigger pull) and my face far away.
 
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Bernie7 said:
I wonder if any of the highly respected air gun repair/customization shops would be willing to do a (paid) master class. I’d totally sign up for a weekend workshop!
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Where is the fun in that? Ernest Rowe does Master Classes on FX airguns on YouTube. Came in REALLY handy a few times for me with my Mavericks.
 
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