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Maverick Bottle change almost impossible!

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Y

yurted

Member
Jan 5, 2023
10
2
somerset uk
Hi everyone, I'm new here and new to the FX Maverick.
I was wondering if anyone else has had the issue where removing or screwing on a full bottle is almost impossible?
I have been filling and removing the bottles for tuning etc for the last month with no problem, easy and smooth.
Over the last couple of days I noticed they were getting quite stiff. I checked the threads, o-rings etc and all is well.
It has reached the point where it is now not possible without serious effort.
Has anyone else experienced this or heard it happen before?
Many thanks
Ed
 
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I just went through this with my impact MK2. I ended up buying a metric tap and die to clean up the adapter threads along with the valve threads. They both came out looking like brand new threads, and I used a thin coat of molly paste on the threads of the adapter as another member uses Molly and said he had great results with it. Bottle easily removes now
 
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IMG_20230106_072046608[1].jpg

This is a tube on a wildcat mk2. It had the old style reg from the mk1 days. I installed a huma reg, as it is easier to adjust than the old regs. After several times taken the gun apart adjusting it, I could screw the end cap halway in, until things started to go slow. I applied more force, as I did know it was not cross threaded, until it got stuck even more. Tried to use a vise, and some pliers ,to unscrew it again but never got it loose again. Since it is not threaded all the way in, I desided to not use it anymore, because of safety conserns.
I desided to "upgrade" my gun with longer tube, with externally adjustable reg instead. An expensive lesson, and desided to not use silicone grease on threads again. I have my share of mistakes to.
 
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Thanks for all your replies, it's very much appreciated.
The threads had some sort of grease on them when I bought the gun I also added a little moly and lubed the o-rings when I got it.
That said, now they are binding up, even with moly, I fear the damage may be done.
So one way or the other either the bottle ends will need replacing or the block on the rifle.
Considering I have only put about 1000 pellets through it and changed the bottles over maybe 10 times the future doesn't look too bright.
Either way, not great on a new rifle.
Putting that together with the fact the bottle gauge intermittently dumps the air, so needs replacing, the magazine indexing sticks at least once during each load, the cocking lever grub screws coming loose several times, until I used some loctite and the cheek piece stopping the mag from seating properly (not the reason the mag sticks, tried it without the cheek piece on).
Other than that its fine!!
 
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Bigragu said:
I just went through this with my impact MK2. I ended up buying a metric tap and die to clean up the adapter threads along with the valve threads. They both came out looking like brand new threads, and I used a thin coat of molly paste on the threads of the adapter as another member uses Molly and said he had great results with it. Bottle easily removes now
Click to expand...
It could be the option, my one fear is increasing the diameter of the bottle thread and reducing the male threads could be an issue as they feel quite sloppy as it is . But worth looking into. Thank you.
 
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yurted said:
Exactly. I am returning it to the shop today. I feel it could be the end of my FX journey, Short and not very sweet!
Click to expand...
Buy an Airgun Technology rifle (Vulcan 3 or Uragan 2).

Now that you have learned your lesson you deserve an excellent and reliable rifle that shoots perfectly well without the need of adjusting anything.
 
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The BEST solution that I have found for this is to clean and lubricate the threads with Slick50. My process is like this:

1. Adapter threads - I spray a microfiber cloth with Slick50 and wipe them clean
2. Bottle internal o-ring - I coat this with a light layer of silicone grease prior to cleaning the internal threads using a cotton swab
3. Internal bottle threads - I use more cotton swabs doused with Slick50 to surgically wipe them clean (applying the swabs along the threads in a CCW motion)

Presuming the threads aren't damaged, the bottle will thereafter spin VERY smoothly on and off the rifle 😎
 
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Hi, Thank you everyone for your advice and thoughts. I took it back and got a refund. they had come across all the issues, I was having, before. They offered to sort it out for me. However, I declined. I dont think I will be able to have complete faith in the rifle after four weeks of disappointment!
Onwards and upwards. Many makes and models to have a look at again. Leaning towards another Edgun R5M.
 
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Vvcc
yurted said:
It could be the option, my one fear is increasing the diameter of the bottle thread and reducing the male threads could be an issue as they feel quite sloppy as it is . But worth looking into. Thank you.
Click to expand...
i checked in with fx first to see if this was an ok procedure to do, and got their blessing. Mainly what I got from the thread chasing was the clean up of threads with almost zero actual material removed, just the gunk inside of the threads.
 
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HogKiller said:
Now that is officially interesting. That would explain why some are having issues removing there bottles, I for one have used a bit of silicon grease. My project tomorrow is to get them off, get them clean and use a bit of lithium grease or a dab of Tri-flow. And pray I haven't screwed things up too badly.
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OMG you are more than 1000% correct, one of them the anodizing was virtually gone, threads are 'ok' only barely, bottle looked ok, the other one was fine, I must not have used silicone on it. The better one of the two has White Lithium grease, the other has a touch of Tri-flow, no longer need a pipe wrench to move it.
 
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Update on my warranty work-

I spoke today to the tech working on my Maverick. The real issue seems to be that the bottle is steel and the adapter is aluminum (or vise versa?). He, again, advised NOT using silicone grease as it holds the anodized particles that come off when screwing bottle on.

I suppose these anodized aluminum particles are harder than aluminum so….wear occurs. The merits of other types of lubricants weren’t discussed.

He suggested that care be taken in putting bottle on as it is possible to cross thread the bottle adapter.

Most importantly, they are fixing this and the other issue I had. This was a very good experience, as far as I’m concerned. As mentioned before, FX was VERY interested in satisfying my issues.

It’s about all that can be asked for, in a mass produced product. Stuff happens…..it is “how” issues are handled that counts. I’m pleased with the response.
 
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I’m going to include my thread as a link, when i posted about cleaning up my bottle valve threads along with my adapter threads with a thread chaser-

Bottle valve thread pitch

Does anyone know for sure what the thread pitch is on the inside of the bottle valves? I want to get a thread chaser for the adapter on the impact block and a tap to just clean up the threads on the bottles valve.
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
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Bigragu said:
I’m going to include my thread as a link, when i posted about cleaning up my bottle valve threads along with my adapter threads with a thread chaser-

Bottle valve thread pitch

Does anyone know for sure what the thread pitch is on the inside of the bottle valves? I want to get a thread chaser for the adapter on the impact block and a tap to just clean up the threads on the bottles valve.
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
Click to expand...
So, you cleaned the threads on the bottle adapter and used moly with the tapping process, correct? To re-tap/do the threads. Do you use a lube AFTER the tapping?
 
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No, I doused the threads with acetone, ran the chaser/tap up and down twice, and while I had the valve removed from the bottle I swapped in fresh o rings, and a fresh M12 Dowty seal.

Wiped all threads clean one more time with acetone, then took those pics.

Applied moly paste(thin coat) onto the threads of the adapter(only), and re installed the bottle. Air”d the bottle up, then un threaded the bottle to see if my efforts worked, and yes, very smooth now, like brand new.
 
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Bigragu said:
No, I doused the threads with acetone, ran the chaser/tap up and down twice, and while I had the valve removed from the bottle I swapped in fresh o rings.

Wiped all threads clean one more time with acetone, then took those pics.

Applied moly paste(thin coat) onto the threads of the adapter(only), and re installed the bottle. Air”d the bottle up, then un threaded the bottle to see if my efforts worked, and yes, very smooth now, like brand new.
Click to expand...
Got it, thanks! When I used silicone grease it did collect grit, I assume it was from the anodized aluminum as when I cleaned the adapter (when changing the bottle) cuz it was black. Molybdenum disulfide is a “platey” particle like graphite is but better. The particles are suspended in petrolatum, I think. I have some moly grease and will try it after I get my gun back. Thanks again!
 
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