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"Fire lapping" an airgun barrel....

Did the search and read through what little has been said about fire-lapping an airgun barrel. I'm often amazed at the collective knowledge we've got here and I'd guess we've got some (hopefully) experience-based insight amongst the members.....

So, I bought and had a barrel kinda-machined that I'd like to improve. It's an unchoked .22, meant to be a rather high-power output barrel, something like 45-55fpe would be plenty for me. (well, by my opinion of power cut-offs "high", many these days would consider it mid-power probably). Absolutely abysmal with slugs, pretty ho-hum with .22 MRDs, but better with them than slugs. Honestly would be pleased to get it to shoot a 23+ grain slug at a decent speed ACCURATELY, or the .22 Monster RD pellet better than it does now. Pushing anything through it gives a catch and grabby sensation the whole length, like "loose, tight, loose tight." Rifling engravings on pellets/slugs pushed through show that the lands are rough as your average section of asphalt (ROUGH!).

The first big improvement was when I gave it a leade. Prior to that it'd barely hit paper, and "chambering" a pellet took some oomph on the side lever. The crown could maybe use a little help, but it's not horrible.

I'm thinking of fire-lapping the dude, as there's not much to lose. I was planning on slathering some JB bore paste in the breech, mashing the heaviest slug I've got (most bearing surface) in behind the slug, and letting loose 15 or 20 times and then pulling the barrel, cleaning it up and then pushing a pellet through to see if it's still feels as stop and go as somebody learning to drive a stick like it does now. A friend suggested the Eun Jin/Seneca type pellets that essentially have lube grooves in the head (ala muzzleloader minie ball), so that it'll carry more abrasive agent.

Is JB bore paste abrasive enough to get anywhere by using it this way? If not, what would be a suggested alternative agent?

Anyone had success with improving a barrel in this manner?
 
IF it feels that rough , maybe do a regular bore paste polish or maybe a light one and test ?
do you have any non redesigned ? my pulsar hated the MRD's but loves the non MRD's both same weight's
Yeah, I've already given it the treatment with the JB coated patch on a jag on the end of the one-piece rod. Lots of strokes and it wasn't getting anywhere.

I've NOT tried the non-redesigned, although I'm pretty sure I have a partial tin stashed away somewhere. Most of the barrels I've tried them in did not like them as much as the MRDs.
 
Hey Cole, I fire lapped a barrel at LD's place awhile back. LD put about a toothbrush amount of JB bore paste on a piece of flat metal then flattened the paste.Then rolled an Eun Jin in the paste filling the grooves. Fired 10 Eun Jin covered projectiles thru the barrel and called it good. Rifle was already a shooter.
-Regards
Gabe
 
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Hey Cole, I fire lapped a barrel at LD's place awhile back. LD put about a toothbrush amount of JB bore paste on a piece of flat metal then flattened the paste.Then rolled an Eun Jin in the paste filling the grooves. Fired 10 Eun Jin covered projectiles thru the barrel and called it good. Rifle was already a shooter.
-Regards
Gabe
Also great info Gabe. Thank you!

With as rough as it currently is, I think I'll do the 280 Clover first (found a 2oz jar on Amazon for $12 that's already headed my way) and then do the JB, following the process you described done at LDs. The order of operations based on the premise that the JB is likely less abrasive than the Clover.

Awesome. Thanks to all. Hopefully I'll have some positive results to report....eventually.
 
Yes, JB Bore Compound is somewhere in the ballpark of 1000 grit.

Since you are picking up an alternating loose/tight character, my advice would be to do a run with the Henkel Clover and then pause and clean and go ahead and push through a couple of pellets or slugs to assess how it's coming along. If instead you go ahead with the J-B for a smoothing pass, the contrast between the loose and tight spots becomes a little less distinct.

For what it's worth, I opt for a cast lap if I'm picking up more than the faintest loose/tight character. Granted I will admit it took me a while to work up the courage the first time I did it.
 
Yes, JB Bore Compound is somewhere in the ballpark of 1000 grit.

Since you are picking up an alternating loose/tight character, my advice would be to do a run with the Henkel Clover and then pause and clean and go ahead and push through a couple of pellets or slugs to assess how it's coming along. If instead you go ahead with the J-B for a smoothing pass, the contrast between the loose and tight spots becomes a little less distinct.

For what it's worth, I opt for a cast lap if I'm picking up more than the faintest loose/tight character. Granted I will admit it took me a while to work up the courage the first time I did it.
Yeah, for some reason the cast lap idea scares me more, although that was recommended over firing abrasive-laden projectiles by another person whose opinion I greatly respect.
 
People have been doing cast lapping for a long, long time Cole. The good thing about it is that it matches the lands and grooves better than even a pellet and gives you a lot longer bearing surface. I don't know much about how AG barrels are made but in the old PB days (no liners, solid steel) it was possible for there to be minor differences in the width of the grooves. Casting the lap makes a perfect match to the dimensions of the rifling. It takes a knack to get a good first cast but once you've done it you won't look back. I trust you were told not to ever allow that cast to fully exit the barrel while you are working it. HTH :)
 
People have been doing cast lapping for a long, long time Cole. The good thing about it is that it matches the lands and grooves better than even a pellet and gives you a lot longer bearing surface. I don't know much about how AG barrels are made but in the old PB days (no liners, solid steel) it was possible for there to be minor differences in the width of the grooves. Casting the lap makes a perfect match to the dimensions of the rifling. It takes a knack to get a good first cast but once you've done it you won't look back. I trust you were told not to ever allow that cast to fully exit the barrel while you are working it. HTH :)
Yes I know it's not uncommon in powder-burner land. I simply have concerns for getting the cast lap stuck, mostly during its creation. The heat the barrel will take on from pouring liquid lead into it concerns me too, for warping or messing with the stresses of a hammer forged barrel. And all that is is quite likely just me being overly careful.

I've considered trying to carefully "squash" a slug to make it a big larger but then I worry about it being concentric.....

Just seems easiest to shoot some goobered up projectiles down the tube and cross my fingers, lol.
 
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nobody has said how long this cast should be ? 1/2 inch , one inch ? , 1,2375 ?
Can't help ya there. I'm going the fire-lap route with this project, meaning I'll be firing some projectiles down the bore. May end up with the cleaning rod doing some more constriction-specific work, but I think I'll go with a tight fitting patch with abrasive before I go to the cast lap, assuming I still have a pesky tight spot or two after the fire lapping.
 
I simply have concerns for getting the cast lap stuck, mostly during its creation.
Lead's coefficient of linear expansion is considerably higher than that of steel, and its initial temperature will be higher than that of the steel barrel...both of which ensure the cast lap contracts more than the barrel as they cool back to room temperature. It will not get stuck.

The heat the barrel will take on from pouring liquid lead into it concerns me too, for warping or messing with the stresses of a hammer forged barrel.
Lead melts at less than 700F. The lowest annealing temperature for steel alloys is over twice that value.

I don't want to twist your arm about doing a cast lap. There are no doubt a number of valid reasons not to, but these two concerns are not among them.
 
Lead's coefficient of linear expansion is considerably higher than that of steel, and its initial temperature will be higher than that of the steel barrel...both of which ensure the cast lap contracts more than the barrel as they cool back to room temperature. It will not get stuck.


Lead melts at less than 700F. The lowest annealing temperature for steel alloys is over twice that value.

I don't want to twist your arm about doing a cast lap. There are no doubt a number of valid reasons not to, but these two concerns are not among them.
Thanks for setting me straight.
 
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