HOW do you RANGE the distance to your quarry (outside your PBR)❓

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HOW do you RANGE the distance to your quarry (outside your PBR)❓ (+Post why you prefer YOUR method!)

  • I rarely shoot outside of my point blank range (PBR) — so, no need to rangefind.

    Votes: 3 3.8%

  • Mostly — I ranged the spots beforehand where quarry appears — no need to range when shooting

    Votes: 13 16.7%

  • Mostly — with a laser range finder

    Votes: 41 52.6%

  • Mostly — with the scope parallax

    Votes: 15 19.2%

  • About half laser — half parallax

    Votes: 6 7.7%
  • Total voters
    78
JungleShooter said:
HOW do you RANGE the distance to your quarry (outside your PBR)❓

The options are in the poll.

My personal journey was all over the "range finding map," I think I've used at least 3 methods over the course of time.... 🤣


🔶 Feel free to comment WHY you prefer the method you are using.

Matthias
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Although I voted for the second option, "Mostly — I ranged the spots beforehand where quarry appears — no need to range when shooting"...

I can't say that I *know* what the holdover is at ANY given range within my "safe shot" range.

There are many times that I have to simply make an educated guess because the shot is not *exactly* at one of the points I have measured.

Chairgun Pro helps quite a bit, but taking LOTS of shots over an area where I know the ranges of many spots (actually measured with a tape measure) helps a LOT! (y)

I don't have a range finder.
 
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qball said:
Laser is the most reliable and accurate method. These days you can get a descent one for well under 100 bucks off of Amazon.
Click to expand...

OldSpook said:
I range before hand when I can otherwise I have calibrated my focus wheel in actual mildot drop. I read the drop directly from the wheel. I don't use range I skip it.
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Not sure if you are talking about clicking or simple holdover, but yes... in my case, I shoot the same field everyday, so once I have an airgun dialed in it is not a question. Most of my shots actually ARE in my PBR, but even those outside of the PBR, the holdover/under is pretty much scorched into my brain. That is, when I was ONLY shooting with one airgun.

Now that I am trying to tune another pesting gun that will have a different (850fps/flatter) trajectory, well... I'll let you know when/if I get it right! (grin)
 
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BackStop said:
Not sure if you are talking about clicking or simple holdover, but yes... in my case, I shoot the same field everyday, so once I have an airgun dialed in it is not a question. Most of my shots actually ARE in my PBR, but even those outside of the PBR, the holdover/under is pretty much scorched into my brain. That is, when I was ONLY shooting with one airgun.

Now that I am trying to tune another pesting gun that will have a different (850fps/flatter) trajectory, well... I'll let you know when/if I get it right! (grin)
Click to expand...
No I mean that I mark my focus wheel with "drop at focus" not "range at focus". Then I count dots above or below zero from the wheel. I literally skip ranging.

Good luck on that new rifle.😁

Note: This won't work well with lower magnifications than about 14x.
 
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OldSpook said:
No I mean that I mark my focus wheel with "drop at focus" not "range at focus". Then I count dots above or below zero from the wheel. I literally skip ranging.

Good luck on that new rifle.😁

Note: This won't work well with lower magnifications than about 14x.
Click to expand...

Not sure I really understand, but then again I have a lot on my mind lately. Seems you are the first one I have heard of using the focus/parallax wheel this way.

The only problem I have with that is that the focus MUST be precise to work well and I am not sure I always have absolute focus on the target when I shoot.

Perhaps you have a much better scope(s) than I do... or better eyes! (smile)
 
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For the parallax ranging to work the ranges have to be pretty close.

E.g.: Field target ranging at 20FPE usually requires big scopes (8-32x, 10-50x) in order to range sufficiently precise to hit the FT kill zone at ranges like 45y to 55y. Beyond that it's not really feasible for most scopes.

So, this method has a lot of limitations....

Matthias
 
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JungleShooter said:
For the parallax ranging to work the ranges have to be pretty close.

E.g.: Field target ranging at 20FPE usually requires big scopes (8-32x, 10-50x) in order to range sufficiently precise to hit the FT kill zone at ranges like 45y to 55y. Beyond that it's not really feasible for most scopes.

So, this method has a lot of limitations....

Matthias
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LOL! Yeah... I'll say!

I use a 4.5-27x50 and a 8-34x56, and neither of them are great at ranging with the focus knob. The problem is that focus can be off and yet look relatively clear which I think is also one reason why some folks experience parallax shift. On that note, although I hate small eye boxes, the smaller the eye box, the less chance of parallax error... for the most part. Think about it. Parallax error comes from the eye not being truly centered behind the scope. A very small eye box MAKES you get centered or you don't even have a picture, which is also a PITA. (grin)

Maybe it is just these old eyes... (chuckle)

Actually, the Alpha 6 is closer to being accurate (factory markings on focus wheel) than the higher quality Athlon. At least, so far...

Again, it may simply be that my eyes just ain't what they used to be!

Now where is that enter key... ding dangit!
 
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Yeah, BackStop, the parallax ranging is a whole science, and the FT shooters have made it so. Parallax wheels with test proven range numbers, Nautilus parallax wheels, huge magnifications and objective lenses to increase(!) the parallax error..... 😆👍🏼


What is the particular reason that scope manufacturers print approx. ranges on the parallax turret? Is it to help ranging?

Matthias
 
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BackStop said:
Not sure I really understand, but then again I have a lot on my mind lately. Seems you are the first one I have heard of using the focus/parallax wheel this way.

The only problem I have with that is that the focus MUST be precise to work well and I am not sure I always have absolute focus on the target when I shoot.

Perhaps you have a much better scope(s) than I do... or better eyes! (smile)
Click to expand...
Most of my shooting is done under 60 yards. That simplifies the problem quite a bit.
 
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I think the wrong question is being asked. You really could care less about the range to a target. What a shooter should care about is holdover to a target. Range is only one element of your guess, because that's what you are doing. You must take into account temp., range, slope and wind as well. Guessing with just the focus wheel is not enough. Whatever you do, you need to do it in seconds and that take knowledge of your guns trajectory and practice. Lots of practice.
 
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Doesn't anyone use their reticle for ranging? Of course you need to know the height of the target to be reasonably accurate with the estimation. I think that has been a trusted method for a very long time with military snipers before the days of lasers.

Having purchased my first PCP airgun this summer, I am new to the parallax focus being used for ranging. The thought of using the side focus to range never crossed my mind before. Nobody I know uses that method with their centerfire guns and I don't know anyone that shoots airguns, so the first I heard of it was on the airgun forums when I started looking for more info on the sport. That said, I think it is a superb tool and plan to set up calibrated wheels on all my current and future airguns. I might even try it on a centerfire rifle or two!

josh3rd said:
Quick question:
When ranging by using your side parallax and sidewheel, would it help if the front of the scope had a covering with a small hole to look through? Would that also help with parallax?
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I have used a few times, what March calls the MD disk that they supply with some of their models. It is metal disk with a smaller than objective diameter aperture that screws onto the front of the scope. It increases optical clarity significantly but if my memory serves, I think it made it more difficult to precisely dial the focus quickly as the range of movement that still showed clear focus was greater. One would think that would increase the margin of error when using the parallax wheel for range estimation.

As noted above, I am a newb to this technique. Do most of you go with the sharpest focus to determine the distance or do you move your eye from side to side while turning the dial until there is zero parallax induced movement between the target and the reticle? On some scopes I own, the parallax is dialed out at a position that does not produce the most clear focus with my weird eyes. I am not sure why that happens, but it does. So if I was using clarity of focus for range estimation, I would not be dialing out parallax with those particular samples. My guess is that using the side to side movement of the eye, would be more precise for calibrating than going with the sharpest focus, but it definitely takes more time.
 
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OldSpook said:
You should thank Ed in NC for that. Let me see if I can find his post. It is the 5th post in this thread. Everything he ever wrote here or on any other forum was worth reading. Nicest man on the forums.

PA had the JSB Exact .177 8.4 grains in stock

My HW30s and R9 love these, and the RWS Misterklugn 8.2 wadcutters. At 25 yards they both hit close to point of aim. At 50 yards, the jsb hit right at the point where the vertical recticle goes from heavy to thin on the R9 with the scope on 9x.
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
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NCEd is who I learned that trick from years ago on the GTA.
Mr R9 himself, and truly a nice guy. Never unwilling to share info, tips, tricks, and sage advice.

Ranging with the AO on the 4-12 Vortex Diamondback, and his method was like a revelation!

Props for keeping the faith!
 
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A .177 Squirrel whacking Machine
baminfall (2021_05_12 06_28_31 UTC).jpg

Thumb reached the side wheel while holding it on target for range then holdover. Great to 60 yards, all clean head shots. This picture was taken while squirrel hunting (need to "use" a tree & leaned it against a bush on "Walnut Ridge".

Love A/O scopes though knowing bracketing just makes sense.

John
 
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steve-l said:
I think the wrong question is being asked. You really could care less about the range to a target. What a shooter should care about is holdover to a target. Range is only one element of your guess, because that's what you are doing. You must take into account temp., range, slope and wind as well. Guessing with just the focus wheel is not enough. Whatever you do, you need to do it in seconds and that take knowledge of your guns trajectory and practice. Lots of practice.
Click to expand...


I get it, Steve. 👍🏼 You want to get to the real issue — the trajectory and adjusting it appropriately. Yes, of course, that is the ultimate purpose of ranging. 👍🏼

And you bet that this question will be my next survey question on AGN...! 😄



However, for now I wanted to know only about the particular part that gives the shooter the range — as range is one of the factors that affects the trajectory more than most others....

Matthias
 
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I would of thought any long range shooter or hunter would say with scope reticle for ranging targets , and use of a milldot master or dope sloper to get angle, You know while many great rangefinders on market I own a vectronics , If i had to go into battle with zombies I would feel way more comfortable with knowing the height of my enemies weather zombies or ground squirrels then when milling them in my scope can get with in 5% of range this is best way to measure distance and batteries do not go dead , and yes I understand gps topo maps with quadrants if in a certain geological environment also can be use but always have a back up which is your scope it wont ever fail you , but you must be stable and have have good glass and good reticle for milling , PS I never heard before this forumn of ranging with parallax this was used to sharpen image and mostly used for calling wind direction and speed by boil with mirage
LOU
 
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