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N/A  At it again. 357 build

T
I'm pretty much unphased by the pressures of PCP airguns, although I do have respect for the potential for their danger but I work daily on firearms that exceed pressures of 50 to 60k psi. I do make sure that anything I build is done so properly and that the parts are rated to take the pressures.

Also, I use 3 chronographs because I've had many people question my numbers when I built my 50 caliber. I use a RCBS shoot through, a magnetospeed (which has been a pain to mount on this) and a cheap Amazon chronograph that has actually been incredibly accurate.
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Umarex  The Walther PPK/S needs an update

B
I keep waiting for a new PPK/S from Umarex. I contend that they are still making the 2016 version offered in Europe. I've seen them in stock at UK sellers recently, but they can't be shipped due to US State laws- Back perhaps 2 years ago now I found a picture of a PPK/S with a drop out mag with CO2, like the Beretta 84FS and the no longer available Makarov Ultra. That picture led me to believe something was in the works, but nothing has materialized. The older versions are very fussy to keep going, but they were very cool 25+ years ago.

In addition to making replacement CO2 to air valve seals, I've come up with a way to fix pesky air valve leaks. Those leaks likely led me to ruin more than one frame by overtightening the CO cartridge on installation. The main CO2 seal is fine, but instinctively you keep tightening on hearing a loud hiss- when it's not that seal, it is a leak at the back of the air valve!

The very back of the air valve, where the firing pin hits tends to leak at the back edge. The new fix is to first remove the air valve from the frame, then unscrew that rearmost piece with a long flat edge- I use automotive feeler gauges as a wrench or giant flat edge screw driver. You need not remove it all the way, perhaps 1/8th ". Get some Loc-Tite #567 thread sealer from Amazon and paint on the sealer to the exposed threads , then screw it back in. IMPORTANT!- let it cure for 24 hours and if it's in a warmer place that's good too, like a heat register in your home. This solved a very vexing failure on the old PPK's. That old 2014 PPK/S Umarex is POPPING very nicely now with NO HISSING LEAKS!!

Another note: the Beretta 84 FS is still available and the later versions are POWDER COATED and not painted in soft flat black. When I saw that Umarex had stopped making the Makarov Ultra, and knowing I had damaged my older Beretta, I jumped at buying a new one from Air Gun Depot at a good price. If you buy one take care when doing the field stripping as it is easy to damage the parts related to the lever that allows you to remove your slide. Don't force it- that's the key!

Yours,
Bluemill
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Hatsan  Recommendations

Gerry52
GwyNative said:
I use my air rifle, mainly for squirrel hunting. If you take a shot and you miss the squirrel, then you have to cock the gun and then look for it again in the tree. A semi auto would work so much better. The rifle I have works great, but it’s just too heavy. It’s not practical to hold that up hunting all day.
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Virtually all I do is hunt. I rarely lose sight of my quarry if I happen to miss. I never let it leave the field of view of my scope while cocking for a 2nd shot if needed! Maybe it's TECHNIQUE & not the GUN that causes you to have to re-acquire your target.
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FX  Impact M3 Upgrade Issues

C
Squirrelmageddon said:
Ya I figured it out. It's definitely a pin probe problem. I loaded a full 25 round magazine one at a time, paying attention to how smooth they fed. After each slug, I removed the mag, and pushed the slug back out of the breach with a cleaning rod. Some of the pellets were damaged. I could actually feel them snag up while feeding. 3 or 4 out of those 25 most likely went in cockeyed and got caught up on the sharp transfer port edge. I pulled the barrel and sure enough I had lead dust and a few particles in the barrel near the transfer port. That debris in the barrel is what was built up in my moderators because it was getting shot down the barrel.

I tested some shallow dish slugs like the NSA and H&N and those have the most issues with the pin probe. Deeper dished slugs from Rifle feed more consistently because they have a deep pointy pocket and it seems like the slug centers up on the pin because of that. Anyways, the large flat faced pellet probe keeps them lined up nice with only a minimal 10 FPS loss.

Now this had my mind whirling. Why does a cheaper gun like my Kral Empire feed perfectly with a similar pin probe? I used the NSA .249 26.8gr slugs in the Kral and the FX to see what the difference was. On the Kral, as the slug enters the breach, it immediately tightens up and feeds straight. When the slug is past the transfer port it's pretty snug. On the FX, the breach is opened up a bit. If you push a slug into the breach but not past the transfer port and turn the gun barrel up, the dam slug falls right out. I can feed the slug all the way past the transfer port, shake the gun, and the slug starts backing out of the barrel. It's that loose fitting. WTH! No wonder the slugs go all cockeyed here and there.
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why does the Kral work So well with a similar pin probe? Because that is the way it was designed. If FX thought the pin probe was such a great idea and they were promoting accuracy and power it would already be in the gun. It would be a cheap feature to make standard. Lo and behold it ain’t there.
Same goes for how the slugs chamber. Once you have an FX gun tuned to shoot slugs it will shoot with any other slug gun.
The rabbit hole people complain about does not exist until we dig it with our own minds.
We have 5 FX guns in house and not one of them is sporting anything aftermarket except the moderator and scope. They shoot just fine. My first FX gun I was YouTub ‘d and spent an inordinate amount of time and money trying to make it better. Lesson learned. They are great guns without all the garland, chrome and lipstick.
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