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American Air Arms  Oring help on evol

The most common random leak in the early Evol was at the pressure gauge on the end of the air tube. Fill it with air and check for bubbles there first. Removing the gauge is tricky so as to not mar up the rifle because there's little room for a socket in that hole. It requires the specialized socket made by AAA, or to make a skinny socket. I turned a socket down on a lathe, but one could be ground down to size just as easily. The only other area that I have had a leak from is the air tube o-ring, but because I tend to tinker and would re-use the o-ring upon re-assembly while tuning for heavier slugs. Otherwise, they seldom leak anywhere else. The burst disk could also be the culprit if it was overfilled and shifted/swelled the brass disk insert.
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AirMaks Arms  Krait- still a roll of the dice?

My short Krait is alive and doing well.
AirMaks did come up with a different regulator. That at least in my case...works very well. Shot to shot has very equal pressure. Letting the gun sit overnight, or a month, very minimal pressure difference. After sitting a month (on purpose), the first shot was a little low on pressure. But the following shots were well within acceptable variations, as noted on a digital pressure gauge on the regulator side.

I wouldn't be afraid to buy one, as long as it was from a dealer...just...in case !

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Mike
Looks awesome!
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Primos Tripod to bipod modification

Sorry for the double post. I had originally posted this in the field target section, but after reflection felt this was the more appropriate section. I wish we could delete our own threads we start.

Hi everyone,

Have you been frustrated by the Primos trigger bipods and all the slop in them when the legs arent spread fully wide? Especially when the tripod version is rock solid when the legs are close together?

Have you had to try wraping hose clamps, zip ties, clamps, spacers etc to prevent the legs and yoke from moving too much?

Well I came up with a solution. I removed a leg from the tripod version and essentially made it a bipod but with the benefit of the collar locking the legs in the narrow position The yoke doesn't flop from side to side like on the bipod version. It still rotates and the legs extend and retract with the trigger as normal.

You can remove the trigger handle or leave it in place. I chose to remove it so that it wasnt in the way when rotating the tripod around. Also you might be able to remove the bolt holding the leg and the leg without removing the locking collar. However, I chose to remove the locking collar for ease of access and clarity in the pictures.

Tools you will need:
#1 phillips screwdriver
2, 3,5MM allen wrenches.
Needlenose pliers or tweezers

1. Remove the 2mm allen bolt holding the handle backstrap shown in figure 1 then remove handle backstrap.
2. Loosen 3mm allen bolt shown in figure 2. Remove handle assembly
3. Spread legs to the full wide position then remove 3 phillips screws holding spring retention cover. Remove cover. Figure 6
4. Move legs to narrow storage position. Carefully remove 3 springs from studs. CAUTION studs can come out easily so try to avoid this. Remove locking collar by sliding down legs. Figure 7
5. Remove 5mm allen bolt holding leg you desire to remove. Only one bolt needs removed. I made arrows showing what the bolds look like from different angles.Remove leg then reinstall bolt and tighten so its not lost later. I saw no difference between leg assemblies so it shouldn't matter which one you remove. Figure 8
6. Slide locking collar over remaining legs. Once into place reinstall springs onto studs. Figure 7.
7. Spread legs fully wide my rotating locking collar. Reinstall spring retaining cover with 3 phillips head screws.. Move legs to narrow position if desired. Ensure locking collar moves freely and operates with spring tension. Figure 6.
8. Reinstall handle assembly. Ensure plunger, Figure 4, goes inside barrel assembly, Figure 3. Ensure handle is fully seated.
9. Tighten 3mm allen bolt. CAUTION Ensure bolt engages groove shown in Figure 3.
10. Reinstall handle backstrap Figure 1 and check operation of legs and trigger.

Down the road, should your trigger get mushy or isn't operating the legs properly, check for vertical play with the handle assembly. Its likely the 3mm Allen bolt, Figure 2, has gotten loose allowing for the handle to move vertically. Push handle assembly into the body and tighten the 3mm bolt.
I also included pictures of the leg operating mechanism. The plunger, Figure 4, engages the roller on lever, Figure 9, which activates the ball valve (for lack of a better term) Figure 10. Depending on your use this may need to be cleaned at some point.
I hope this helps and that its understandable. I'm sorry I wasn't making notes as I disassembled it as I thought part way through to take pictures and to do this writeup once I was done and ensured it worked.

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Wowza - how about I send you my trigger stick and pay you to fix it

Primos tripod to bipod modification

Sorry I posted this here first then realized it really should be in the resource section instead. Though I know this will be particularly useful for field target shoters.

Hi everyone,

Have you been frustrated by the Primos trigger bipods and all the slop in them when the legs arent spread fully wide? Especially when the tripod version is rock solid when the legs are close together?

Have you had to try wraping hose clamps, zip ties, clamps, spacers etc to prevent the legs and yoke from moving too much?

Well I came up with a solution. I removed a leg from the tripod version and essentially made it a bipod but with the benefit of the collar locking the legs in the narrow position The yoke doesn't flop from side to side like on the bipod version. It still rotates and the legs extend and retract with the trigger as normal.

You can remove the trigger handle or leave it in place. I chose to remove it so that it wasnt in the way when rotating the tripod around. Also you might be able to remove the bolt holding the leg and the leg without removing the locking collar. However, I chose to remove the locking collar for ease of access and clarity in the pictures.

Tools you will need:
#1 phillips screwdriver
2, 3,5MM allen wrenches.
Needlenose pliers or tweezers

1. Remove the 2mm allen bolt holding the handle backstrap shown in figure 1 then remove handle backstrap.
2. Loosen 3mm allen bolt shown in figure 2. Remove handle assembly
3. Spread legs to the full wide position then remove 3 phillips screws holding spring retention cover. Remove cover. Figure 6
4. Move legs to narrow storage position. Carefully remove 3 springs from studs. CAUTION studs can come out easily so try to avoid this. Remove locking collar by sliding down legs. Figure 7
5. Remove 5mm allen bolt holding leg you desire to remove. Only one bolt needs removed. I made arrows showing what the bolds look like from different angles.Remove leg then reinstall bolt and tighten so its not lost later. I saw no difference between leg assemblies so it shouldn't matter which one you remove. Figure 8
6. Slide locking collar over remaining legs. Once into place reinstall springs onto studs. Figure 7.
7. Spread legs fully wide my rotating locking collar. Reinstall spring retaining cover with 3 phillips head screws.. Move legs to narrow position if desired. Ensure locking collar moves freely and operates with spring tension. Figure 6.
8. Reinstall handle assembly. Ensure plunger, Figure 4, goes inside barrel assembly, Figure 3. Ensure handle is fully seated.
9. Tighten 3mm allen bolt. CAUTION Ensure bolt engages groove shown in Figure 3.
10. Reinstall handle backstrap Figure 1 and check operation of legs and trigger.

Down the road, should your trigger get mushy or isn't operating the legs properly, check for vertical play with the handle assembly. Its likely the 3mm Allen bolt, Figure 2, has gotten loose allowing for the handle to move vertically. Push handle assembly into the body and tighten the 3mm bolt.
I also included pictures of the leg operating mechanism. The plunger, Figure 4, engages the roller on lever, Figure 9, which activates the ball valve (for lack of a better term) Figure 10. Depending on your use this may need to be cleaned at some point.
I hope this helps and that its understandable. I'm sorry I wasn't making notes as I disassembled it as I thought part way through to take pictures and to do this writeup once I was done and ensured it worked.

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Alkin W 31 Price hit the roof

I’m in contact with both Alkin and Airetex
Both have presented quotes
The Airetex appears to be a knock off of my Bauer - AireTex Mini Magnum. 3.7 actual CFM auto drain model regular price $3995 plus shipping on sale for $3795. Plus shipping.

The Alkin W31 is about $900 plus more up front. Unfortunately, the Alkin vertical semi auto 220v is out of stock right now. They only have the horizontal version in semi auto. Looking at a 6–8 week lead time on the vertical semi auto 220v; if you only wanted that you can place the order and hold one of the units incoming in 6-8 weeks. There are customers that have compressors reserved by buying direct or through our distributors. Our distributors don't stock these, they ship them directly to their customers. Alkin Shipping cost is going to be $350.00 to a residential address w/liftgate delivery. Alkin all in Total with credit card fees and shipping: $4635.00

Of course Both are solid compressors!
In the end I went with the Alkin w31 full auto upright unit because Alkin was much more responsive to my emails and they had an excellent support profile and strong internet presence - including lots of educational resources on YouTube etc… I could tell that long term support was going to be better. This compressor will easily outlast me and one day be donated to a airgun club.
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FX  On the fence

None of them. Get a FX Crown. Basically your first gun should be a Crown and you won't regret it.
If you get into the sport then make your next gun whateve

I agree, it's very much like a standard rifle with the action behind your face where it should be, here's mine and another members collection of the Crown he love's them that much...
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crown.jpeg
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Parallax wheel tape - create your own

I can simplify this process even more.... buy some self adhesive pvc measuring tape from vendor of choice... i use amazon. For $12.00 bucks i can get 4 LONG tapes.
Cut the tape to the width or your wheel and the length necessary for your wheel.
Then Do your ranging and wheel set up as normal
EXCEPT
that you will mark your DOPE or ranging distances or holdover points in inches or Millimeters.
In a Way its more accurate, esp if a range is set up in creepy off distances, and it drives people nuts if they are trying to see what YOU ranged a target at.
I like to list my holdover rather than yardage for this reason.
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Air Tanks  SOLD FX 580cc Carbon Fiber Bottle 250 BAR SOLD!

SOLD for $265 on 10/03/2023

FX 580cc carbon fiber bottle 250 BAR is from my 2022 Impact M3. I'm selling the bottle because I had to switch to a 480cc bottle as I installed a Huma first stage regulator that extends out 1 1/4 inches more than the stock FX reg. As a result I could no longer screw on my DFL Ronin as the 580cc bottle extended out too far for me to screw on the moderator.

The FX bottle is in excellent condition with a few nicks around the neck of the bottle. The nicks came from unscrewing the bottle and hitting the sharp edges on the scope rail. You have to look closely to see them. The valve uses a standard valve pin. It does not have the bushing/collar around the valve pin I've seen on some FX bottles. So this bottle will work with other FX airguns that can accommodate a 580cc bottle. I replaced the o-ring inside the valve housing where the bottle connects to the regulator and the o-ring between the bottle and the valve so you shouldn't have to worry about leaks.
The bottle will be shipped without any air for shipping safety reasons. Also including a shrink wrap to protect the bottle if you go out in the field.

$279 shipped for free by Priority Mail to lower 48 states only. Hawaii and Alaska full cost of shipping.


Please use regular PayPay, I'll pay the fees.

Thanks for looking,
Jerry

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For

Hours worth of tree rats.

I like a 25 over 22. The 25 just has more authority. I'll take the shot I'm given and sometimes that's chest and neck. The 25's do better in those situations. I have a 30 that is shooting around 100 ft lbs. It will knock a red squirrel 5 feet backward off their perch. The 30's do damage similar to 22 long rifle HP's. They are excellent for chest shots. A thirty will pop their eyeballs out on head shots.

With that said I have killed more with a FWB 124 than anything I own. Shot placement though is critical with a rifle in 177 IMO.

Air Strippers do you use one?

I don’t see how this attaches to the rifle? Thanks
Slip fit onto the 16mm barrel, single grub screw on bottom anchors it.

Don't make to much of a deal Looking for a similar unit !!!! I've been looking & looking for years and never found who made this one :cry:
Thus the idea is proven and made similar units by using my lathe and Mill

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