How relevant are these moisture filters
- By AlanMcD
- Tanks, Pumps, Compressors
- 14 Replies
I think you should be doing fine with that approach. I used a Hill Mk2 (with input desiccant) for a few years exclusively on a Marauder as the only fill source, and when I tore it down for some changes after that time there was no signs of any moisture at all. After that point I bought a tank and had it filled at a dive shop, but still pumped a lot - the tank was more to support my constant changes to to the gun, which often meant degassing - which is not so fun with a hand pump. Eventually I bought a Shoebox compressor about 10 years ago, and that was when I really went down the rabbit hole of reviewing all my old thermo / heat transfer stuff to fully understand what was going on with the water vapor stuff to be sure I had it right . . . .Alan..read your comments..i use a Hills Mk 3 to pump up my daystate huntsman...the method of venting air out after 50 strokes and then repumping...is this effective?i can strip and assemble my pcp myself with no problems but then how does one come to know ones pcp has moisture built up inside.i frankly pump up my pcp from abt 150 bars to 220 bars for each refill but stop in between to catch my breath.is this a correct method.of course the pump requires rebuild because moisture (white stuff) does build up on its base even with that fancy dessicant filter it has.
Bottom line; about 50 strokes with a hand pump followed by venting and a cool down break works great for water vapor and hand pumping. Just down't pump too fast, and pause for a second or two at the bottom of each stroke - this gives the air charge a moment to cool in the base.
Upvote 0