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Air Arms  TX200 splits breach seals

Cocked or uncocked with handle snapped into place .... If you can WIGGLE the cocking linkage THERE IS YOUR PROBLEM !!!
The breech is NOT being fully set against the breech seals double stacked 90duro o-rings.
Worn cocking shoe or it needs to be shimmed to get a firm and secure lock up where when handles locked up & breech is closed the link is placed under slight tension.

The .25 caliber ELR Slugs are here!!!

Hehe actually me having the brain i have, and experience in powder coating, and educations for other forms of surface treatment and painting.

Parried with a sleep disorder with a run away brain, I have already devised how such a setup might look.

Me ( hands ) in my last job, though this of course a bit large at least VS what my mind have come up with for painting little lead lumps.



PS, this setup was 300 % slower in painting than i am, used 200 % more paint and at least 200 % more filter in the paint booth, but company thought it was a excellent investment,,,,, i only painted a few hours every day CUZ output and drying oven not larger / faster than that.

What i envisioned in my bed just need a small booth, with a cyclone of course to reuse / recycle surplus powder, a conveyor system, and of course a curing oven, everything of course in a continuous line, there should be no need to stop.

Paint booth with cyclone.

iu


Curing oven probably need to be custom made as they are often large, but a conveyor can make round trips in such a oven before exit to make sure the things are in there long enough for paint to do what it need to do to be good.
I once worked in a place where the curing oven was on top of the painting line.

My mind assume just 1 spray gun would be sufficient.

Conveyor much like in my last job, slug would spin around when passing through paint section.
slugs should of course be only 2-3 Cm apart on the conveyor, it should look like a belt fed Machine gun so to say.
Conveyor speed slow though as otherwise curing oven can not keep up, a " automated " taking off painted slugs would probably be easy to make, but you would probably need someone to put the slugs on the conveyor ( upside down placed with peg up the hollow point )

My sleep deprived mind think this can be done on about 15 - 20 Sq M of floor space.

New FX Impact Compact - Newbie Question

.....Right now you’re in a dark room just bumping off walls. A chronograph is not a major purchase. You just spent over $2k on a toy. A chronograph is life blood for a FX Impact.
This is soooo true! I just played around with wheels trying to tune by group size...what a waste of time/pellets/slugs/air...

Reading some of vetmx posts is what helped get me going in the right direction with my m3 compact.

N/A  Need help with a trigger mechanism

Hi i bought a older bam under lever .22 rifle that has trigger mechanism problems ive stripped and re build it multiple times and still can't get the trigger mechanism to work. Any help to rebuild and get this old girl working again would be very much appreciated. I've rebuild my smk 19 multiple times and had no issues its just this BAM Which I believe is a b4-4 I'm having trouble with. Thank you in advance.

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Decided on a PCP...

I've used Natchez quite a bit, they've always been solid for me.

I've got a couple Donnyfl, I like them, fit/finish is great. I haven't used any of the others on the market.

I'm relatively new to airguns (5yrs), so take the following for what it's worth..my experience is that a good/efficient tune makes a bigger difference than the moderator for sound suppression. If you're tuning it to be a hammer, moderator internal volume is your friend.
Fully agree, the Blitz needs a bigger can. The cyclic rate is crazy high, a 21 round mag dump takes about two seconds. The Ronin does a nice job, along with the built in shrouded barrel design. I've heard of issues running a can on the Blitz, my Blitz works exactly the same W/ or W/O the Ronin. Just quieter. Natchez is a very solid vendor, no worries they are on my good guys list. I ordered my Donny FL items direct.
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Cast slugs

Tony is a customer, and he's already done the homework regarding the condor. What he needs is this mold:


He has already tested the 5.55mm mould necked down to .2165. It provided the best groups with the moulds I have, but the above is better suited for his situation.

I'll acquire the .217 bushing along with this mould in time.

.217 bushing:


I've been waiting for NOE to produce a .217 body bushing since OCT. 2024. It will be a few months more since they are training new staff:

Thanks much

HW/Weihrauch  HW 50 s Finally Broken In

Highly debatable. The mainsprings I've fitted have been a total crapshoot as to how they fit a certain rear guide. Name brand aftermarket springs sold as drop-in replacements can drop onto an OEM guide without any contact. And they definitely buzz. A high-dollar aftermarket spring can be either completely loose, barely good or a perfect fit, and you can't tell until you test 'em. On most of 'em, each end, too, has a different fit. And the airgun factory mainsprings are of a lower quality.

Making a springer mainspring into a specific ID / fit is fantasy.
Well have to agree to disagree. Springs can be made reasonably consistent. Your experience with aftermarket springs is typical of aftermarket springs. Due to the nature of production factory springs while not the best quality are far more consistently sized than aftermarket. Otherwise Tin Bum could never stay in business. Their guides are cut to fit factory springs and for the most part work well for the general consumer. Weihrauch could just as easily make their guides the same size as Tin Bum.

Being involved in automotive and railroad machinery for decades I can assure you springs can be and already are mass produced in exact enough sizes to properly fit a fixed size delrin guide. At least well enough to reduce twang. Plus if anyone could do it, the Germans could. I have no doubts in their engineering ability, only in their motivation. While I agree it won't be addressed. It's not because it couldn't be done at little to no extra production cost. Your pessimism of mass production is simply too broadly applied here.

Barrel loose in the middle after machined at breech

A cast "hard" lap is the best way to relieve a tight spot in a barrel, because it preferentially cuts the tight spot. Rougher grit can be used with a hard lap, but a soft lap such as a tight patch will cut everywhere the lap moves, including where not required.

Soft laps are OK for polishing the whole barrel, but not so good for relieving a short section of tight barrel. For that reason, finer grit should be used with a soft lap, or it will reduce land height and round land corners, rather than preserve the basic shape of the barrel bore. Yes, you can use a soft lap for preferentially removing material from the bore, by applying more strokes in tight areas, but you do not have the control to cut to an even diameter that you have with a hard lap.

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