cavedweller said:

I liked your answer - where did you source your stock

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I'm sorry for taking so long to answer. I bought it from Air Arms through Pyramyd Air. It's an Ultimate Sporter Stock, was $550 and took about six months. That was in 2015. I imagine the price has increased some.

Lot of 8 tins of .25 33.95gr heavies.

2 tins JSB Mk1
4 tins JSB Mk2, sorted by size.
2 tins JSB King Heavy Diablo

$160 Shipped to lower 48, payment via Paypal F&F or add 3% or Zelle. Not interested in trades. Positive feedback on AGN and on ebay.

Just looking into thesecret-sauce that was used to good success. New information, on what makes it different than the stock 28" ART barrel (original BRK Ghost barrel on a Delta/Alpha Wolf). He has made a very successful rig.
I like the use of heavier brass weight to steady the front of the gun with moderator base. Stabilizing barrel with carbon tube and after thinking about it "C" looks like a threaded clamp that tensions the carbon tube. I will ask him by PM but just a interesting detective work.

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stovepipe said:

Hi herryer223. I noticed in the picture of your maverick that you are still using grub screws in the "hand" that holds it to the cocking rod. ALL maverick owners should replace the grub screws with cap-head machine screws. Cap-head screws will use the full length of the threads in the "hand" and will allow you to tighten them with a 3mm allen key so you can get them as tight as possible. Maybe where you live it's easier to find torx head rather than hex head cap screws. Either way, the grub screws don't hold nearly well enough to keep the "hand" from slipping on the cocking rod. The result is often times a bent cocking rod and a bent or broken rod guide. I was warned, but I didn't do it right away. I paid the price when the cocking rod and rod guide bent all to hell -- it sucked. I had the grub screws in as tight as I could get them and, yes -- I did have loctite on them. Ditch the grub screws. Cheers.

stovepipe

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Thank you for the heads up I have had so many problems with that dang cocking rod to the point I machined a titanium rod to replace it I’m going to replace them that makes sense to use all the threads.
that was one of my problems with the mav trying to pull heavy springs to achieve over 100fpe I’m trying to design a better foot that will use the barrel to brace the rod thank you again

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Best Fittings has a replacement gauge that will work on your valve as well.

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I’m looking for a 700cc bottle. I don’t need the valve.

so, the pistol when closing the cocking arm will not build pressure
these pistols hold the air between the end of the piston head and the valve but it is not like a multi pump
it can only leak from the tube Oring or a damaged piston head Oring and they do not have an oil hole so adding oil to lube the piston head Oring is not possible
now i guess the valve could be partially open and then you would have air coming out the barrel

All your guns somehow defy the normal design power limits. I've never seen a HW35 make 14.5 fpe much less 16. At least without combustion enhancement. Are you sure of your energy calculations?

Not just calculations but chronified, too.
Those 14.5 is @ 0.22, @ 0.177 it is just 12 ftlb. But with the spring in the original state as they are and stay in my other guns it was 16 and 14 ftlb.
I'm always trying to get maximum power out of them and I think 14 ftlb is the minimum power out of a gun of that amount of solid metal to make sense.

guys found the rattler 357 in EU so think il get that one thanks all..

Where can I purchase these? It's length in full is: 175mm and it is 10.75mm in diameter

donut_man said:

I alway think they should all get merged into one giant thread that does not count towards the ten (or whatever) posts required.

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A forum called “The Dumpbox.”

Just an update:

I received my GX-Cs4 compressor this past Friday as expected. Unfortunately, my health has made it impossible to test it thoroughly so far.

But it did come without damage and I have filled (topped off) my Fortitude and Akela both from about 2500psi to 3000psi. It actually took about as long as it usually would take me to do it by using a hand pump, but I haven't felt like setting it up in a permanent place where it will be easier to get the fill whip to the gun.

At least in my case, I am happy. I did fill the coolant reservoir with distilled water only. I noticed some soapy looking white particles, so I ended up draining the water and refilling, again with just distilled water.

I looked into using anti-freeze or water wetter, but the more I looked the more I became convinced that pure distilled water will work best for me. The pump is inside and will never freeze and water wetter seems to simply be a surfactant, but the ingredients list makes me wonder.

In any case, for me, distilled water is cheap and is better at cooling than any anti-freeze which I don't need with the compressor indoors and I am only filling relatively small capacity airguns.

The gauge matches perfectly with the gauges on my guns and the auto-stop works fine. I still don't know what the second needle is for...???

Anyway, so far I am happy with the compressor. Just not with my declining health situation... (heavy sigh)

I have reached out to them, they never answer their phone.

nervoustrig said:

Agreed. That is a symptom of a failing O-ring on the adjuster screw.

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Thanks. I will try replace the o-ring.

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Stubbers said:

If these were more rounded and less square I'd be $1,250 less richer.

I'll probably buy the GK2 or GK3. Glad you're quite happy with yours and are enjoying shooting it. These pistols are nothing short of amazing in their performance.

-Matt

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Does anyone know if GK2 will be release this year?

Where’s the best place to get a GoPro side shot

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No longer available.

TheBeardedGunsmith said:

They did it on their Facebook page. Caught alot of flack too.

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@TheBeardedGunsmith Wow. I imagine that they did.

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