Thank you Sawney, I was hoping you would say the big bottle of Daisy bbs. Thanks Mark

Aimright said:

Interesting, don’t see many help wanted posts here on the forum. Looked up Stonham Aspal, appears to be a very nice small town surrounded by green agricultural lands. Just curious what your typical customers are - landowners that use airguns for pesting or possibly field target competitors?

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A mix of customers, pesties, farmers, people shooting squirrels in the garden, and a lot of restoration work.

I saved that WEASEL bunny for many years as a reminder LOL until a cat tore it apart one day.

Non -Airgun posts belong under your profile in the Social section.

I had a similar experience. The 1.5mm Allen screw accessed through the hole in the power wheel loosened on its own. Readjusting the Allen screw and a drop of Loctite fixed it for me.

Keep stroking you quit stroking you'll sink

I found out the hard way. Lol! Got it back in though and yes the speed dropped to the low 800s.

Kak543 said:

Today I tried shooting my Umarex SA10, Excite Econ 2 pellets, with blank paper targets (A4 paper with just a black sharpie dot) each magazine (8 rounds).

Noticed a nice improvement from the first target to the 2-3, then a couple of bad ones (lack of concentration?), then again some better ones. Last shots in double action were higher than the single action ones, but after the finger "adapted" to the new trigger pull they were quite consistent.

The gun is not shooting high as I thought, maybe just a bit. Probably I'm just doing something bad I need to understand.

For reference, grouping in the good target ones was like 5-7 cm if you exclude a couple of fliers each ones.
I need to improve and work on repeatability, if I just concentrate a little less I start shooting worse.

One thing I noticed is that I'm vertical stringing... Even in better targets, holes are nearer but vertically aligned...

Opinions? Thank you!

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Distance to target?
type of pellet / weight ?
speed of pellet ?
type of shooting surface?

I love my 14 round 177 mags in my HW100s. Fast/easy to load, you can see bad skirts, takes a while to shoot 14.
Easily the best mag I ever used in an air rifle.

Steve-l,

There are many different 3D printing plastic materials, with varying properties. PLA has poor thermal creep resistance, despite being fairly strong and stiff at room temperature. Some printing plastics have carbon or glass fiber in them for good creep resistance. My designs are intended for PETG. For mods that have to stand more than 100 PFE I usually recommend an outer tube of carbon fiber or aluminum to act as the pressure vessel and remain straight. Many people print with whatever plastics they have on hand. Their attitude is, if a mod distorts or clips and is destroyed, they will just print another. An OK strategy, providing a misdirected pellet does not go on to cause harm.

There are a fair number of Huben GK1 pistols wearing some of my design light weight printed plastic mods. Some of them have been used for more than a year, and have many thousands of shots through them. The only failure mode I am aware of is if the GK1 firing valve sticks open and dumps a full reservoir of air into the moderator. But that is like crashing a car with 5 MPH rated bumpers into a large tree, at 50 MPH. The car does not survive intact, and neither does the moderator. It would need to be much more robust and much heavier to handle such a crash; to handle what amounts to chamber pressure, rather than muzzle pressure.

The commercial airgun moderator brand STO uses 3D printed inserts, but houses them in more robust outer shells. So, the question if printed plastic mod inserts can be used for airgun mods, has been answered. Making such printed parts from metal would certainly work; but the mods would likely be too heavy, too expensive and too strong. Normally, "too strong" would not be a problem, but an overly robust airgun mod could easily be confused for one someone intends to use on a firearm. As the ownership and use of airgun and firearm mods are handled very differently in the USA from a legal perspective, the use of plastic parts in airgun mods is not seen as a bad thing.

Both my 22 cal R3 and R3M are 200 bar max fill presure.

My R3 30 cal is a 220 bar max fill presure.

Thanks I'll ck it out. I just in case I have to, any body knows a good place to have it repaired?

JEFFPPC said:

For whatever it's worth I have a Tx200, 300s, LGU, 2-D75s and the best pellet shooting 20m and 25yd groups indoors is the JSB 4.52.Close second in several of these is the Air Arms 8.4. The crazy thing to me about head size preference is the total lack of quality control or consistency on head size of any and all the pellets I have checked. If I sort aby weight and head size at time groups may be marginally tighter but its a tiny bit and not always. I gave up. l shoot out of the tin.My time is worth more than sorting out the really crazy occasional pellet.

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Yes I shoot from the tin also, way to much work for the results.

It would be of benefit to search for an in-depth spreadsheet by Matthias (Jungleshooter) as he has done a TON of research on scopes or all makes/styles.
It is easy to read and understand.
Not sure why it's not a sticky, but whatever....
It's from 2020, but still has relevance, plus, you could also contact Matthias via PM.

mike

In that your gun case that is an open cell foam.
Protective oils only won't save you from moisture. You will need to replace to a closed cell foam as well, or remove the rifle from that case.

VIBRA-TITE works great for this !!!

Centercut said:

Nice quick review Joe. I was going to ask which you like better, the Mora or the Skout, but we’ll see soon enough which gun you shoot at RMAC. See you there…

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I have owned both and like the Mora better. It has excellent accuracy with both slugs and pellets. I need to do more testing, but I have found I can shoot pellets at 980 to 1000 fps with great accuracy. I don't like electronic triggers either, the Mora has a great, if not the best trigger of any of the guns I have owned, it is like a match trigger! Both guns are great, I just like the Mora more, and no more dead batteries to disable the Skout.

I don't think there are a lot of issues but I don't want to be part of one. I also don't know how many issues it will take before there are more rules limiting what we can do with our airguns. If you only shoot at things on the ground I think you are pretty safe regardless of the projectile and power level. But if you shoot at things up in trees, I am sure you need to pay attention to what is behind your target and I think you should use the lowest power and worst bc that will work. The big issue is when you miss. Slugs will carry significantly further potentially something you did not intend to harm.

beerthief said:

Battery operated ? what is the noise level ?

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Yes like airsoft guns, uses a 11.1 v battery. You can put in larger batteries to increase shot count from the factory batteries. I have not seen how many shots per charge on the Barra. The Umarex AER16 says 650 per charge. Hard to tell from videos but Pyramid says sound level 3. Mark

KWK said:

Olympia

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Nice piece! I heard in some circumstances, these Japanese copies are better then the originals.

At this point in my life, nearly all the machining projects are One Off's ... my sketch blueprints are scribbled onto my electronic note tablet ... once done push refresh button and Presto all gone.

Back in the day before all these parts were available, we would Dremel our own transfer ports. made them oval so the pellets would slide across without damage. Worked well on the Impact M1 .25

After 5 days of rain i finely made it up to the range. Today it was sunny and 70 I had the Texan .308 out this time with BARS 149.5gr FN- BT 3400 psi,. First, triangle 140-yard White smaller target is a 4 inch and at 140 yards and the other is a 8 inches just to show how hard they were hitting (990 fps) Last target, the red long cylinder is 180 yards. I'm not a precision shooter just a hunter,

rut said:

I just got my filter in today. Is it safe to assume that the cartridge inside the filter already has both caps removed?

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Not safe to assume anything, especially when it's easy to check.